Builds My Hawaiian 1975 Fj40 Resto-resurrection

[Aloha Jen]

Is it just the two upper hinges that are holding the one-piece tailgate in place? That‘s a fair amount of weight (full jerry can) cantilevered off the back not to have some sort of attachment near/along the bottom (e.g. lower hinges). But if rig is only to be used on flat terrain probably ok. Nice build work, great partnership!

Actually, the weight of the tailgate pretty much rests on a tab welded to the bottom of the tailgate. That is bolted to a threaded hole that was used for the ambulance doors. The hinge bolts provide additional support, but really just help to limit back and forth movement. It moves the whole tub if you try and shake it.

Also, It’s very sturdy and pretty heavy. It is a 1/4 steel plate that is welded to a 1/8 steel frame that was supposed to resemble an OEM tailgate/barn doors. It’s definitely stronger then it needs to be.

 

[Aloha Jen]

It sure is coming along great!
great color and nice how that hood and front end square up nicely.
good job!

Thanks, it’s not perfectly square, hangs over a little less than 1/8 inch on the DS. But it took a lot of adjusting to get it there, so maybe they didn’t come perfectly square from the factory.

 

[Aloha Jen]

I don't see any wheel weights on your rims. Were the tires not balanced when you had them mounted?

I just looked and they put the weights on the inside of the rim. Not really sure if that is the right way to do it, but that’s where they are. It’s kind of nice not seeing them in my opinion, but I will see how it drives very soon.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Thanks, it’s not perfectly square, hangs over a little less than 1/8 inch on the DS. But it took a lot of adjusting to get it there, so maybe they didn’t come perfectly square from the factory.
View attachment 3445723

No they didn't
but it looks great.

 

[120mm]

Thanks, it’s not perfectly square, hangs over a little less than 1/8 inch on the DS. But it took a lot of adjusting to get it there, so maybe they didn’t come perfectly square from the factory.
View attachment 3445723

My junk is much worse than that.

be happy with what you got.

 

[Aloha Jen]

Spent a good amount of time cleaning up the wire harness. I was fortunate enough to have a wire harness on my 40 that was in pretty good shape to begin with and hadn’t been hacked into and messed with (except for the rear harness, that needed to be completely rebuilt). All areas that had been rubbed through or had exposed wire were repaired and rewrapped with Tess tape and good quality electrical tape. Went through and cleaned/treated every single electrical connection on the harness. First step was to spray with electrical connector cleaner to remove dirt/debris. For really corroded connectors, I soaked in a salt and vinegar solution for a minute or two until most of the corrosion was gone.

Following the salt/vinegar dip it went into a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. Then a quick dip in 90% alcohol to clean and dry out some of the water. Followed by a thorough spraying of electrical contact cleaner to further dry out the cleaned connectors and wires. After completely dry each connector was sprayed with CorrosionX.

The CorrosionX may be considered on the expensive side, but has pretty fantastic reviews from many in the marine/boating industry. Given my proximity to the ocean (right across the street from my house) I wanted to use a really good product to protect my wiring. Once it is a prayed on, it further attacks any corrosion, even creeping and working it’s way up into the wire under the sheath, and leaves a protective coating to prevent corrosion in the future. I have nothing but positive things to say about it and hope it provides good protection for a long time.

All cleaned up and coated with the protective spray. After testing all of the electrical functions on my 40, I can happily report that they are all functioning normally!

The smile in this picture is genuine, but this photo was taken at the beginning of the wire harness cleanup. I do not think the smile was still there after 4 hours of the tedious cleaning up of the harness. But I’m happy now knowing they are all cleaned up and working properly!

 

[RevISK]

Spent a good amount of time cleaning up the wire harness. I was fortunate enough to have a wire harness on my 40 that was in pretty good shape to begin with and hadn’t been hacked into and messed with (except for the rear harness, that needed to be completely rebuilt). All areas that had been rubbed through or had exposed wire were repaired and rewrapped with Tess tape and good quality electrical tape. Went through and cleaned/treated every single electrical connection on the harness. First step was to spray with electrical connector cleaner to remove dirt/debris. For really corroded connectors, I soaked in a salt and vinegar solution for a minute or two until most of the corrosion was gone.
View attachment 3484415
View attachment 3484416
Following the salt/vinegar dip it went into a baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. Then a quick dip in 90% alcohol to clean and dry out some of the water. Followed by a thorough spraying of electrical contact cleaner to further dry out the cleaned connectors and wires. After completely dry each connector was sprayed with CorrosionX.
View attachment 3484412
The CorrosionX may be considered on the expensive side, but has pretty fantastic reviews from many in the marine/boating industry. Given my proximity to the ocean (right across the street from my house) I wanted to use a really good product to protect my wiring. Once it is a prayed on, it further attacks any corrosion, even creeping and working it’s way up into the wire under the sheath, and leaves a protective coating to prevent corrosion in the future. I have nothing but positive things to say about it and hope it provides good protection for a long time.
View attachment 3484414
All cleaned up and coated with the protective spray. After testing all of the electrical functions on my 40, I can happily report that they are all functioning normally!
View attachment 3484411
The smile in this picture is genuine, but this photo was taken at the beginning of the wire harness cleanup. I do not think the smile was still there after 4 hours of the tedious cleaning up of the harness. But I’m happy now knowing they are all cleaned up and working properly!

Corrosion X is truly amazing, I go through many red cans a year. For really long lasting protection try the blue can/marine stuff. That stuff is thicc and stays around for a long time. Nooks and crannies are very well protected as either creeps into tight spots.

 

[Aloha Jen]

Even though the fuse block is still available new, I thought I would try and cleanup my old crusty one.

Soaked it in the same method I mentioned above,

Then cleaned dried and coated it with the CorrosionX spray.

Cleaned up really well with nice shiny brass/copper connectors on both sides. I got all new period correct colored coded fuses from Matt @vintageteqparts as well as the plastic backer for the fuse block. It looks so pretty now!!

 

[Aloha Jen]

Corrosion X is truly amazing, I go through many red cans a year. For really long lasting protection try the blue can/marine stuff. That stuff is thicc and stays around for a long time. Nooks and crannies are very well protected as either creeps into tight spots.

They just started carrying that Blue/Marine CorrosionX can at my local Ace Hardware, will definitely be getting some for future use.

 

[Aloha Jen]

It’s not all work and no play, and actually, it’s very little work on the 40 and maybe a little too much play. But here’s a scenic intermission from all the work pics and a few of my favorite things to do here in Hawaii~

 

[Aloha Jen]

Scenic intermission cont…

 

[Aloha Jen]

Ok, back to work pics.

With the wire harness all cleaned up and repaired, I could start to reassemble the dash. All dash knobs were carefully removed before paint and bodywork and were thoroughly cleaned and hand painted the letters before reinstalling.

Period correct radio that I have was cleaned up and got missing knobs from Matt @vintageteqparts as well as the proper radio mounting hardware.

Freshly painted dash knobs, polished metal collars and radio installed. Dash is starting to look more like a 40 now!!

 

[sogafarm]

What a great attention to detail on your '75! I will definitely try the vinegar salt solution on Mine. Great job and looking good as always!

 

[middlecalf]

This is awesome tech on cleaning the electrical connections, etc.

And the intermissions are worth the price of entry. Cheers

 

[Aloha Jen]

Restored the original gauge cluster with a fresh coat of Rustoleum Pro Stainless Steele colored paint, appears to be a very close match to the original cluster color. This same paint color was used on the glove box cover, center console, bumperettes, and a few other interior items.

While the gauge cluster was open, painted all the gauge needles and installed LED lights for all the cluster and dash functions.

Also did a deep clean on the original lower dash pads. Scrubbed them with a mild degreaser first then with a vinyl cleaner and finally a vinyl conditioner that made them have a nice matte shine.

 

[Aloha Jen]

I refreshed the glove box cover with the same Stainless steel paint. Painted the pocket handle lettering with the same warm white acrylic paint I used on the dash knobs. Also got a shifter info plaque from Brandon at Classic Cruisers with just the right amount of aged patina.

Bolted it on with mini bolts/lock nuts instead of riveting it on. I needed a new limiting cable for the glove box since mine was broken. Had one fabricated from a short length of wire with round electrical tabs. Then finished off with heat shrink to clean it up a bit. Looks really clean and works fantastic now!!

Also got the ash tray cleaned up and painted. Did the inner part of it with a chrome spray paint and the same stainless steel paint for the cover. Ash tray knob was cleaned and polished.

 

[RevISK]

The soak on the fuse block was particularly impressive. Thanks for that tip.

 

[franklin40]

Scary steering, isint it!? Same with me…I was swinging that wheel myself and freaking out a bit, lol

my steering was constantly trying to kill me too when i first got it. glad to see how much you’ve got done. i got my second 40 around the time you got yours. i just got it licensed two weeks ago. it’s driveable but nothing like what you’ve accomplished. nicely done!

 

[Aloha Jen]

What a great attention to detail on your '75! I will definitely try the vinegar salt solution on Mine. Great job and looking good as always!

The soak on the fuse block was particularly impressive. Thanks for that tip.

Thanks, there are a couple of good YouTube videos showing the process. But it’s pretty simple, I just mixed as much salt in the vinegar that would dissolve with a little collecting at the bottom. For the baking soda solution to neutralize the acid solution, I used distilled water and mixed as much baking soda that would dissolve in the water.
One tip would be to not dip the connectors and wires too deep, as the solution will most likely travel up the wire under the sheath. If it corroded in there then it’s good, but probably not so good for the water to go too deep. Just make sure it’s dried out really well, utilizing a fast drying solution or cleaner and definitely treat the cleaned connector with die-electric grease or a product like CorrosionX that has a die-lectric grease in its formula.

 

[greenbeast]

Nice job! Love the vinegar/soda/salt trick!! Should be on road in no time, will be keeping eye out for this beautiful 40 when visiting family in Haleiwa!

Keep up the good work!