Builds My First Time: FJ40 build (7 Viewers)

[SuperBuickGuy]

neat build. I did a lot of what you're doing - I run 38.5s with the idea that I would go to 40s when I wore the 38s out.... now? I dunno, I've yet to have a time when I figured 1/2" or 1" would make any difference at all. The flat belly was actually the thing I keep appreciating.

 

[White Stripe]

Yeah to be honest I am not sure on the BS of the rims, they came with the tires when I bought them. I will have to measure one when I take one off.

I don't have a problem with how wide it is. I think it looks wider also because that is close to full bump and at ride height it will not look as wide. if I need I can always swap rims down the road but right now the $$$ is just not there. for reference outside of tire to outside of tire was around 83" so it is not really that wide track width wise. my tan truck was around 94 if I remember correctly but that was also with 42x15-15 TSLs.

I do not really want to go any wider though, will be nice to not need drive over fenders...lol

83? That's not bad. Must be because like u say it's at full compression height. I've heard u can shave the stock 9.5 housings to gain a tad bit more clearance if your so inclined. Man 94 is pretty crazy wide.

 

[Ryan Towry]

neat build. I did a lot of what you're doing - I run 38.5s with the idea that I would go to 40s when I wore the 38s out.... now? I dunno, I've yet to have a time when I figured 1/2" or 1" would make any difference at all. The flat belly was actually the thing I keep appreciating.

Thanks man. I have read a lot of your build actually for ideas as they are very parallel in a lot of ways, I think I am actually going to end up tan also. I have always like tan and have had a bunch of tan Toyotas.

I really actually like the 38.5 size but options are limited there and I am cheap so I ended up getting these 37's for a screaming deal. Ideally I would love a set of 38.5 MTRs or TSL's but I figure I can probably find a better deal on 40's if I want to go bigger just because of availability.

 

[Ryan Towry]

83? That's not bad. Must be because like u say it's at full compression height. I've heard u can shave the stock 9.5 housings to gain a tad bit more clearance if your so inclined. Man 94 is pretty crazy wide.

yeah I have thought about shaving the housings to save some clearance but I tabled it until I got my 5.29's installed and everything else tacked on and am ready for final weldout.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Thanks man. I have read a lot of your build actually for ideas as they are very parallel in a lot of ways, I think I am actually going to end up tan also. I have always like tan and have had a bunch of tan Toyotas.

I really actually like the 38.5 size but options are limited there and I am cheap so I ended up getting these 37's for a screaming deal. Ideally I would love a set of 38.5 MTRs or TSL's but I figure I can probably find a better deal on 40's if I want to go bigger just because of availability.

here's the test - would you buy a different size if a great deal came along? I did, and I'd do it again I wanted radials and found either new pricing for 20% tires or 33s.... I do keep looking, I'm sure eventually I'll find those Hutchinson beadlocks with new Maxxis 40s for a reasonable price. Of course, I also won't become a prostitute (write for a magazine) so.... but yet I wait. I do figure I have a couple years before these wear out.

 

[Ryan Towry]

yeah I am definitely price driven when it comes to tires. that is why I am leaving the 40 option open. I have seen a lot of kids around here start builds and buy new 40's to try and make them fit and either loose interest or find out they wont work on their XJ and sell them at a discount. just have to find the right deal. I am thinking these will last me a good long while before needing new tires also so I have time to look.

I would not mind finding a set of 39.5 IROKs though for snow wheeling. get a little better floatation than the 37's

 

[64Rotorhead]

engine in the fj40, take 2. This time with the NV4500/ Atlas bolted up.




still need to figure out the right height and build the cross member but I can tell you my engine hoist is glad that is over....
also looks like I only have about 21" for the rear drive shaft with where the axle is now. I am so used to Toyota minitruck stuff where you have miles of rear drive shaft so this makes me really nervous.
I think with the rear leafs I have now I could probably push the axle back another 2-3" before I have to get into mounting the shackles off the back of the frame. do you guys out there in keyboard cowboy land think 24" long for a rear CV shaft? I need to figure angles based on final ride height because this thing is getting lowered a bunch, but 24" sounds short to me.

engine in the fj40, take 2. This time with the NV4500/ Atlas bolted up.




still need to figure out the right height and build the cross member but I can tell you my engine hoist is glad that is over....
also looks like I only have about 21" for the rear drive shaft with where the axle is now. I am so used to Toyota minitruck stuff where you have miles of rear drive shaft so this makes me really nervous.
I think with the rear leafs I have now I could probably push the axle back another 2-3" before I have to get into mounting the shackles off the back of the frame. do you guys out there in keyboard cowboy land think 24" long for a rear CV shaft? I need to figure angles based on final ride height because this thing is getting lowered a bunch, but 24" sounds short to me.

Our drivetrains are the same, other than I have a Vortec. I've been discussing my rear DS with Jess at High Angle and should be ok. But I have rear 60 springs flipped for WB extension. My shackle mounts are moved back on rear bumper, easy to do, and a CV is planned.

I also noticed your Atlas clock angle. Is that the final position? It's just a bit below frame rail and on mine I may have to do that as well for the front DS clearance, but right now I have it back up just level with bottom of frame rail, we'll see.

 

[Ryan Towry]

Our drivetrains are the same, other than I have a Vortec. I've been discussing my rear DS with Jess at High Angle and should be ok. But I have rear 60 springs flipped for WB extension. My shackle mounts are moved back on rear bumper, easy to do, and a CV is planned.

I also noticed your Atlas clock angle. Is that the final position? It's just a bit below frame rail and on mine I may have to do that as well for the front DS clearance, but right now I have it back up just level with bottom of frame rail, we'll see.

That is good to know about the rear DS. I plan to move the mounts back to put the rear shackle off the back of the cross member as well so it should end up pretty close.

for the atlas I was originally going to run it flat, but I think I am in the same scenario as you and might have to leave it where it is to clear the starter at full bump. I am going to mock up a drive shaft here as soon as I get the links mocked up to see. the other down side is the trans already hangs so far down, I think the trans is actually the low point right now. clocking the atlas flat really does not help the belly height that much. it is too bad the 4500 is so tall.

 

[64Rotorhead]

Thanks. I know there is a super long road ahead and it will probably take me years to drive it but it still has the new project smell so I am pretty excited to work on it. I bet I won’t be here in about a year. Lol

I did get her in the garage last night and took some measurements. It is sitting at about a 92” wheel base and 24” to frame on 35” tires. There is 12” from top of tire to fender well so I am assuming I will be lowering it 4-6”. The rear springs had a 20/24” eye to centerbolt to eye Doug I flip them around I should get 4” of wheel base added. If I push the front forward another 4 that should put me right about 100” on 37’s with about 18-20” under frame.

I'll be watching to see how you get the frame that low

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

my belly is flat, but it's also 2" lower then the frame. I built a link-mount frame for the rear, lower links the belly skid is on the bottom of it. Having a flat belly has saved me more times then I can count. With that said, my issue was not wanting to build a new cover and all of the other issues raising the motor and trans another 2" would create. And also, having that 2" extra gave me space to put an air tank for my air compressor - makes the air system work lots better.

 

[Ryan Towry]

I'll be watching to see how you get the frame that low

thanks, I am not sure I will really get that low, but it cant hurt to try. I am probably going to have to build a skid below the frame to cover the t case like buick guy that will probably hang down about 2" below the frame.​

my belly is flat, but it's also 2" lower then the frame. I built a link-mount frame for the rear, lower links the belly skid is on the bottom of it. Having a flat belly has saved me more times then I can count. With that said, my issue was not wanting to build a new cover and all of the other issues raising the motor and trans another 2" would create. And also, having that 2" extra gave me space to put an air tank for my air compressor - makes the air system work lots better.

I am thinking I am going to have to build a 2" subframe below the frame as well to protect the t case and trans and keep the link mounts from hanging up on things.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

You can also cheat the engine angle up as well to gain a bit of space for the starter. I know for me, the hardest, most crowded spot was the opposite side from the driveshaft... slave cylinder, brakes, air tank, upper control arm all competing for the same space.... I think, thinking back, that was the biggest reason I made the belly pan removable. I'm also glad I used 3/8" stainless plate - no rust, easy to clean, and (because it has nickel) very hard so it doesn't dent or even scratch at all.

 

[64Rotorhead]

I'm also pretty certain at this point that I'll be a couple inches low with skid plate. All good

 

[Ryan Towry]

not a big update but I finally got some time to work on her.
picked up two IFS CV drive shafts from a good friend for free and cut one apart to start mockup on the front shaft.



I got lucky and just happened to have some drive shaft tubing I was given by a friend a while back that looks to be real close to the right length. only buzz kill is my Toyota flange on the atlas does not have the CV pattern so I am going to have to take it off and drill it for the new pattern.
I also tacked in the lower links and raised the axle until the tie rod would hit the frame to see how it would look. this will require some notching for the drag link for sure but would gain me 2" of up travel hence lowering the ride height 2". right now the lower links are 44" eye to eye and I think the upper is going to end up around 36-40" I think.




in the last two pictures you can see I started to try and place the upper link in there and it is tight. if I had it strait up and down it would contact the nut on the fan belt. I angled it back to where I think it would fit at full bump and have a little clearance for adjustment but it brings my vertical separation down to around 6" which is slightly concerning. I am also going to probably have to bend my upper link some to clear the motor mount unless I rework the motor mount too.
if I can make this as my full bump it would put my frame height at full bump around 16.5" so if I add in 5" up travel it would put me about 21.5" to frame at ride height, then 2" down or so for the belly pan would make the belly around 19.5". this is a little low but I can always turn the shocks up to around 6" up travel and get my belly over 20 if needed.

 

[Ryan Towry]

so a little more:
I got the atlas flange drilled for the CV pattern for the front drive shaft and threw that in and dropped the axle 5" on my axle holding jig to estimate ride height. then I threw together a temp drag ling from some extra SS pipe I had laying around.





I am liking how flat the drag link is around ride height but I think I might see if a flat pittman arm with the hiem below woud help raise the steering box end just slightly and help keep it from being the low point when at full bump.
I also measured the lower links and they are about 3 degrees upward at full bump and about 4 degrees down at ride height. I think this is decently flat so should have ok manners on the road.
then I threw a fender and tire on at the estimated ride height for a visual.



looks a lot less crazy wide down near ride height. I am definitely going to have to build tube fenders or move these fenders up to hood level almost to clear the tires when articulated.

 

[Ryan Towry]

no real big updates besides this thing will be being put on hold for a while. I just accepted a new position in Yakima WA so I will be moving and needing to find a new home before I can start work on it again.

 

[69LC]

Bummer! I was hoping to have a reason to visit Grass Valley again next time I’m out that way. Hope the move and new position treats you well.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

no real big updates besides this thing will be being put on hold for a while. I just accepted a new position in Yakima WA so I will be moving and needing to find a new home before I can start work on it again.

Crackima? howdy over-the-hill neighbor. Once you get settled, we'll have to take you out wheeling (moon rocks, naches, Liberty, etc).

 

[Ryan Towry]

Bummer! I was hoping to have a reason to visit Grass Valley again next time I’m out that way. Hope the move and new position treats you well.

sorry man. I bet you can find some other Cruiser heads in this area to come visit. seems to be a lot around here.

Crackima? howdy over-the-hill neighbor. Once you get settled, we'll have to take you out wheeling (moon rocks, naches, Liberty, etc).

Yeah, I know we looked long and hard at Yakima because some said it was sketchy, but it seemed a lot better than a lot of places I have been. and the new job is really exciting and getting out of California is very exciting.

Hopefully I can find a way to keep working on the 40 over the winter so I can get this thing ready for wheeling soon and take you up on that offer to get out wheeling. Right now I need to concentrate on getting it rolling so I can park it at my sisters house in Spokane.

 

[Ryan Towry]

well no real good updates but I did take the job in Yakima and got the rig moved to Spokane at my sisters house until I can get our housing situation figured out.

here was the load moving north. I packed inside the 40 with all my parts and a lot of tools.