Builds My First Time: FJ40 build (1 Viewer)

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You are right the right cam will make it wake up so to speak. I put a BTR truck torque cam in my 6.0 it makes that motor have some grunt now to turn 40's with 4.56 gears.
 
You are right the right cam will make it wake up so to speak. I put a BTR truck torque cam in my 6.0 it makes that motor have some grunt now to turn 40's with 4.56 gears.
good to know. did you do valve springs with the cam? are you using a stock computer or a aftermarket EFI management?

now that i think about it i should buy two cams and put one in my 6.0LS tow rig too lol
 
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With a 140k I’d do valve springs no matter what. The cam will dictate which springs and if new pushrods are needed. While you’re in there, I like to do new timing chain, oil pump, lifters and lifter trays.
 
good to know. did you do valve springs with the cam? are you using a stock computer or a aftermarket EFI management?

now that i think about it i should buy two cams and put one in my 6.0LS tow rig too lol
I say I did tongue in cheek because I sent the engine to BTR to have them install cam and valve springs. Engine came out of a Tahoe with only 32K on it. I bought it out of New England and had them actually ship it to BTR and BTR sent it on to me in Wa State. I am using factory computer I just deleted a ton of not needed wires. I forget where I got the wiring diagram from to do the delete. It was online LS place tho.
 
I say I did tongue in cheek because I sent the engine to BTR to have them install cam and valve springs. Engine came out of a Tahoe with only 32K on it. I bought it out of New England and had them actually ship it to BTR and BTR sent it on to me in Wa State. I am using factory computer I just deleted a ton of not needed wires. I forget where I got the wiring diagram from to do the delete. It was online LS place tho.
nice. so with the stock computer did you have it tuned to no longer look for the rear O2 sensors and spiced up some? I know LT1 swaps.com has a lot of wiring info and will do computer tunes.

Blackbear performance (Black Bear Performance :: Custom Tuning Solutions for 96 and newer GM Vehicles - http://www.blackbearperformance.com/) is in Cour D'Alene and does dyno days and tuning and has a very good reputation. I was thinking of calling him when the time comes. will probably be a while though before i get that far.
 
nice. so with the stock computer did you have it tuned to no longer look for the rear O2 sensors and spiced up some? I know LT1 swaps.com has a lot of wiring info and will do computer tunes.

Blackbear performance (Black Bear Performance :: Custom Tuning Solutions for 96 and newer GM Vehicles - http://www.blackbearperformance.com/) is in Cour D'Alene and does dyno days and tuning and has a very good reputation. I was thinking of calling him when the time comes. will probably be a while though before i get that far.
I did use the diagram off LT1. It was really easier then I thought. No rear O2 sensors. I had a buddy work on the tune he's into that stuff and it seems to be running great. I can ask him exactly what he did and let you know. I know with the cam and the way he tuned it I have no problem spinning 40in tires on dry pavement but I dont do it much 40's = $$$. I also used Ride Control II to convert electrical input to mechanical output so to speak. I have a Ipad pro as my dash panel and it does everything except blinkers hazards and hi/lo beam switching. That wiring took me a couple weeks to get it to work. Now tho I turn on iPad it sees my face or put my code in to start and turn off it does all my engine monitoring (set up guage panel as you want it) as well as stereo and GPS (with external antenna). I control my fan motor and seat heaters thru it. I will warn you ride control II isnt made anymore and they went to ride control 3 and its about 1500-2K now, I paid 750 for my original ride control II.
 
I did use the diagram off LT1. It was really easier then I thought. No rear O2 sensors. I had a buddy work on the tune he's into that stuff and it seems to be running great. I can ask him exactly what he did and let you know. I know with the cam and the way he tuned it I have no problem spinning 40in tires on dry pavement but I dont do it much 40's = $$$. I also used Ride Control II to convert electrical input to mechanical output so to speak. I have a Ipad pro as my dash panel and it does everything except blinkers hazards and hi/lo beam switching. That wiring took me a couple weeks to get it to work. Now tho I turn on iPad it sees my face or put my code in to start and turn off it does all my engine monitoring (set up guage panel as you want it) as well as stereo and GPS (with external antenna). I control my fan motor and seat heaters thru it. I will warn you ride control II isnt made anymore and they went to ride control 3 and its about 1500-2K now, I paid 750 for my original ride control II.
hahah, yeah 40's are not cheap. I was looking at some method bead locks and 40" nitto's yesterday and thinking i will have to take out a HELOC to finish this project....lol

Ride control sounds crazy cool. do you have a link or picutre of it? i tried a quick google search and didnt return anything.
 
hahah, yeah 40's are not cheap. I was looking at some method bead locks and 40" nitto's yesterday and thinking i will have to take out a HELOC to finish this project....lol

Ride control sounds crazy cool. do you have a link or picutre of it? i tried a quick google search and didnt return anything.
RideController | Control Your Ride - http://www.ridecontroller.com/ the one they have now is not III it is called RC Pro. It took me a minute to get my head around it but once I did it is pretty freaking easy.
 
that is good to know. i will have to check that out.
 

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