My First Land Cruiser - BJ60 "Wabi Sabi" (5 Viewers)

[PapaGiamati]

A job that should have been a few hours ended up being close to 8 hours...classic.

took the oil pan off, which was a bit of a pain. Used a putty knife to get in between the oil pan and the engine crank, worked fairly well. I made a few marks in the oil pan that I had to buff out to ensure a smooth mating surface.

painted the pan (crudely) and went to re-install the pan with the new gasket and a new oil filter. The old oil was VERY black, but didn't see any metallic flakes or "sparkle" in the oil. Nor was there any sort of milky residue or coolant in the oil so no worries on a cracked head or blown head gasket. Unlikely to take the head off now since there is no reason to.

The oil pick-up looked fine and nothing was in it, so i left most of the crank case alone to not bother any chunkies or anger the 3B gods.

From my perspective on the ground, the cylinder walls looked to be in really good shape.

 

[PapaGiamati]

I bought a gasket set off @Radd Cruisers (supporting Canadian locals!), but the gasket seemed "shrunk", but was still plenty elastic and wasn't hard or cracking. So I had to figure out a way to mount the gasket cause when you mounted it with the two studs that normally held the gasket on, the gasket would deform diagonally and wouldn't let you align the remainder of the holes. Red neck engineering was in play here.

Im sure there are a bunch of you who are thinking "what a dumba**! He should be using RTV like the manual says!!". And you would be correct. But i already bought the doggone gasket so im going to use it dammit!

*proof the manual does indeed say to use RTV*

I had to work out how to do a job that required 4 hands with only two. Zap straps it was. Placed them around the oil pan so that i could keep it lined up while i started the bolts around the pan.

"If it's stupid and it works, it's still stupid, and you're lucky."

guess im lucky. If it fails...ill go with RTV.

more to come.

 

[Gimme a 60]

I bought a gasket set off @Radd Cruisers (supporting Canadian locals!), but the gasket seemed "shrunk", but was still plenty elastic and wasn't hard or cracking. So I had to figure out a way to mount the gasket cause when you mounted it with the two studs that normally held the gasket on, the gasket would deform diagonally and wouldn't let you align the remainder of the holes. Red neck engineering was in play here.

View attachment 3566413

Im sure there are a bunch of you who are thinking "what a dumba**! He should be using RTV like the manual says!!". And you would be correct. But i already bought the doggone gasket so im going to use it dammit!

*proof the manual does indeed say to use RTV*
View attachment 3566414

I had to work out how to do a job that required 4 hands with only two. Zap straps it was. Placed them around the oil pan so that i could keep it lined up while i started the bolts around the pan.
View attachment 3566419

"If it's stupid and it works, it's still stupid, and you're lucky."

View attachment 3566426

guess im lucky. If it fails...ill go with RTV.

more to come.

3Bs like to rust oil pans - you got a good one.

I Used The cork gasket as well, I like them a lot, but are $.


wanna know something cool about the 3B?


This motor is actually sleeved, AND features oil cooling jets! (you can see them in the photo) in My opinion this makes it superior to the 2H which doesn't have them - but its definitely related to why the 3B lasts so long, hence my obsession with them!

 

[PapaGiamati]

3Bs like to rust oil pans - you got a good one.

I Used The cork gasket as well, I like them a lot, but are $.


wanna know something cool about the 3B?


This motor is actually sleeved, AND features oil cooling jets! (you can see them in the photo) in My opinion this makes it superior to the 2H which doesn't have them - but its definitely related to why the 3B lasts so long, hence my obsession with them!

I think the amount of oil it leaked saved a lot of the rust in the long term hahaha. The PO took really good care of this truck too. I lucked out.

Yeah I did see those! Wasn't sure if that's what it was, but figured as much. Good to know.

Have you taken your timing cover off? I think that gasket is next, as there was so much oil leakage from the front of the engine.

 

[Gimme a 60]

I think the amount of oil it leaked saved a lot of the rust in the long term hahaha. The PO took really good care of this truck too. I lucked out.

Yeah I did see those! Wasn't sure if that's what it was, but figured as much. Good to know.


No I haven’t, but you should research it. I for some reason thought it was a lot of work.
Have you taken your timing cover off? I think that gasket is next, as there was so much oil leakage from the front of the engine.

 

[Smithtec]

I think the amount of oil it leaked saved a lot of the rust in the long term hahaha. The PO took really good care of this truck too. I lucked out.

Yeah I did see those! Wasn't sure if that's what it was, but figured as much. Good to know.

Have you taken your timing cover off? I think that gasket is next, as there was so much oil leakage from the front of the engine.

Are you sure it's not just the front main seal? The only tricky thing about the timing cover is the bearing for the injection pump. It's supposed to be pressed in to that cover, but the two I've taken off the bearing just fell out.
My engine is old and the gasket was baked on like you wouldn't believe. Took me hours to clean it off the block using rolok pads and a wire wheel.

 

[Dekeman]

Great truck and good work. Keep it up, will be following....

 

[PapaGiamati]

Are you sure it's not just the front main seal? The only tricky thing about the timing cover is the bearing for the injection pump. It's supposed to be pressed in to that cover, but the two I've taken off the bearing just fell out.
My engine is old and the gasket was baked on like you wouldn't believe. Took me hours to clean it off the block using rolok pads and a wire wheel.

very well could be...

There was so much tar build up on the front of the timing cover is the reason I was led to that conclusion. But since they are layered on the same area, could be that. I have a full 3B gasket kit, so its doable. Unsure if i want to tackle it solo. I have a buddy coming out for easter weekend. Might try it then.

 

[Smithtec]

The timing cover isn't difficult, other than the gasket as I mentioned. But I would make sure it's leaking before pulling it off. And I'm assuming you have the book to line up the timing marks.... On my engine, the front crank seal was leaking because the journal is grooved. I found a speedi sleeve repair sleeve for it. Can't find one for the rear main though, still not sure how I'm going to fix that.

 

[PapaGiamati]

The timing cover isn't difficult, other than the gasket as I mentioned. But I would make sure it's leaking before pulling it off. And I'm assuming you have the book to line up the timing marks.... On my engine, the front crank seal was leaking because the journal is grooved. I found a speedi sleeve repair sleeve for it. Can't find one for the rear main though, still not sure how I'm going to fix that.

Yeah, there was a TON of build up of tar (old oil leaks) from under the water pump area where that timing cover is. Assumed it was from there. Yeah i have a 3B engine rebuild book and a Haynes manual, also I have all those FSMs that someone keeps on the google drive in the mud community.

Ah interesting, never heard of those speedi-sleeves before. I also have the automotive archeology itch where I just want to take EVERYTHING apart to see what issues lie unnoticed....I have the need...the need to spend more money on parts

 

[Smithtec]

Yeah, there was a TON of build up of tar (old oil leaks) from under the water pump area where that timing cover is. Assumed it was from there. Yeah i have a 3B engine rebuild book and a Haynes manual, also I have all those FSMs that someone keeps on the google drive in the mud community.

Ah interesting, never heard of those speedi-sleeves before. I also have the automotive archeology itch where I just want to take EVERYTHING apart to see what issues lie unnoticed....I have the need...the need to spend more money on parts

I just obtained the 3b engine manual for 80-84 engines, if you end up needing torque specs. They are different in later manuals, there's a thread on it.

 

[PapaGiamati]

I just obtained the 3b engine manual for 80-84 engines, if you end up needing torque specs. They are different in later manuals, there's a thread on it.

I think my engine rebuild book is from 1986? would be curious to know what yours looks like or the print ID is for it? Im hoping mine is for the 80-84 model years. I still need to double check was month my truck was built in 1984. I know the engine is stamped 58030 if that means anything to you.

 

[Smithtec]

Thread 'B/2B/3B Diesel crankshaft bolt torque: bearing cap (12mm,13mm,16mm) and connecting rod cap' B/2B/3B Diesel crankshaft bolt torque: bearing cap (12mm,13mm,16mm) and connecting rod cap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/b-2b-3b-diesel-crankshaft-bolt-torque-bearing-cap-12mm-13mm-16mm-and-connecting-rod-cap.1322217/

I was using the 1994 PDF manual when I saw this thread, luckily right before I torqued my main and rod caps.

 

[diesellibrarian]

Here is the massive pile of dust that had been inside the channel of the rear body mount. No idea how that much got in, but there is probably twice that still in there. Just cant get it out! There is so much packed dust in the frame rails too. Its insane. Need to take this truck to a proper car wash and blast it all out.

Use compressed air instead. If you try to use water, it just turns to mud inside the frame rails, compounding any rust that may already be starting in there.

 

[BittersweetInfamy]

Dude, great work on the cruiser!
I'm in Calgary too and wrenching away on my FJ62. Could meet up for a cruise some day.
Have a welder too if you need anything fixed, I basically rebuilt the back of my cruiser

 

[PapaGiamati]

Dude, great work on the cruiser!
I'm in Calgary too and wrenching away on my FJ62. Could meet up for a cruise some day.
Have a welder too if you need anything fixed, I basically rebuilt the back of my cruiser

My best friend is flying up from Nanaimo for Easter long weekend, were planning on buying a small hobby welder and sending it hard for 4 days to get all the work done! He said it should work on the 15A breaker for the garage. If you're in the area and have time to pop by, we may need your advice! Otherwise feel free to come over for garage beers.

Once I get the truck passed inspection and insured, we will have to cruise! Looking forward to it

 

[PapaGiamati]

Valve clearance evening,

started by taking some of the smaller rad hoses that run to the rear heater off. Found these very unique hose clamps. OEM? Or just suuuuper old school. I got impatient and just tore them off shortly after the pic. Not sure how they worked.

I noticed last time around that a "few" of the oil pan bolts were finger tight. Now when i went to take off the valve cover, 2 of the 4 nuts were basically finger tight. When I mean finger tight, I mean one came off without use of a spanner. That cant be right....can it?

Inside the cover when i took it off, not bad..

found some stickers I need to decode later...
Ill just read some @OGBeno posts to find out.

went to clean the valve cover and make it shiny again. Remember to protect your OEM stickers!

I can only att 5 pics so far so onto the next...

 

[PapaGiamati]

Cleaned the cover well enough, I put in a new valve cover seal then moved onto the valve clearances

Found some posts that claimed that there were some different number for the "cold" valve clearances compared to the book, which only listed "hot" valve clearances.

The "hot" 3B valve clearances were

Intake: 0.20mm (0.008in)
Exhaust: 0.36mm (0.014in)

and the "cold" valve clearances were

Intake: 0.25mm (0.010in)
Exhaust: 0.40mm (0.016in)

so i moved on with the cold valve clearances since my 3B is far from starting at the moment. This is about when I questioned my own constant praise of the PO. I measured the valve clearances on the first 4 valves i am supposed to check once I lined up the marking on the wheel to the pin on the timing cover. They were close to 0.85mm (0.033in) basically across the board. LOTS of play....yikes...

clearly this was a job that had not been done in some time. Not too concerned since there are probably dudes running engines like this for years without any notable issues.

I carried on and made sure each valve clearance was according to spec. Then slapped the valve cover back on and made sure things were more than finger tight!

Soaking the exhaust manifold in penetrant to get it off in a few weeks.

much better...

 

[Dekeman]

The VC bolts are usually not much more than finger tight - about 80 INCH pounds or so. Those twisty clamps are OEM but impossible to reuse.
The constant tension clamps are a far better replacement and also OEM.
96134-42100 - 5/8 inch
90466-41008 - 1.5 inch

 

[PapaGiamati]

The VC bolts are usually not much more than finger tight - about 80 INCH pounds or so. Those twisty clamps are OEM but impossible to reuse.
The constant tension clamps are a far better replacement and also OEM.
96134-42100 - 5/8 inch
90466-41008 - 1.5 inch

Wonderful reply, i just made a list today to go pick up hose clamps. Thank you.

Ack on the VC torque specs. Still need to pick up a torque wrench before I go to start the engine again, but I've backed them off until I can get it right.