Builds My first '40 and the venture (5 Viewers)

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

Which spring packs did you add leafs to?

 

[OlYellr]

Which spring packs did you add leafs to?

I added them to the rear spring TOY-034-R. I wasn't sure to get heavy and remove a leaf or get medium and add one later if needed initially. I went medium way. The issue was the 4plus tire and cooler carrier is solid. @lcwizard does fantastic work. And with a load in the back of Costco/Grocery no issues - just the sag when hauling more stuff (2 people, gear, spare parts...)

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I added them to the rear spring TOY-034-R. I wasn't sure to get heavy and remove a leaf or get medium and add one later if needed initially. I went medium way. The issue was the 4plus tire and cooler carrier is solid. @lcwizard does fantastic work. And with a load in the back of Costco/Grocery no issues - just the sag when hauling more stuff (2 people, gear, spare parts...)

Ah ok. Thanks for the reply. I have the same medium springs. Will have to order the add a leafs for when I add a rear bumper

 

[OlYellr]

Ah ok. Thanks for the reply. I have the same medium springs. Will have to order the add a leafs for when I add a rear bumper

I would say depending on your usage - might not need them. But then there is the rub, right? Putting on, try, nope taking off, torque all 8 Ubolts again (and do you need new u bolts cuz the old one are stretched from all that time at 108 ft-lbs?)

would be great for one and done - that just wasn't in my cards - for my liking on a very specific issue that doesn't happen a lot in a year - I drive more and haul little most days.

All that said - If I would have got heavy to begin with (to go with the full tire/cooler combo weight), I would have never attempted to remove a leaf. I put 60 miles on today after and I'm good with how they are now.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

You got to 108 ft lbs.?!?!
I had u-bolt stretching at 45 ft. lbs. with the Dobinson u-bolts

 

[OlYellr]

You got to 108 ft lbs.?!?!
I had u-bolt stretching at 45 ft. lbs. with the Dobinson u-bolts

Sure did. Specs per the 1980 Toyota Land Cruiser Repair Manual, Chassis & Body is 108 ft-lb, on page 6-34

(I will say I was not impressed with the hardware that came with Dobs. I posted videos last year how the shackles were tweaked and Rus use the press to get them more true and the screw holes in the pins didn’t line up exactly. Your story only feeds my opinion and experience of their hardware. I’m sure others have had no issue which is great. Just that the words out of Dobs is their guarantee- their actions don’t line up with their words. - rant, slippery slope and too easy for me not to take my own bait)

I have the @lcwizard flip kit front and back and they handled that torque - I also bought spare ubolts and nuts from Dave too.

Back last June or so - showed trimming the ubolts and de-burring them for a nice clean look too.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

There were folks in the 60 forum not being able to get to factory torque spec on the Dobinson's 60 series u-bolts too.

I think 90 ft lbs was the spec on them.

I think most came to the conclusion that good and tight was good enough.

I think their after market metal is softer than the stock u-bolts. They are definitely having some quality control issues along with their spring pin alignment holes misplaced as I recently found out.

 

[lcwizard]

You got to 108 ft lbs.?!?!
I had u-bolt stretching at 45 ft. lbs. with the Dobinson u-bolts

If a 9/16 (14mm) u-bolt is stretching or failing at 45 ft/lbs, it's a grade A or ungraded u-bolt and too soft for suspension parts.
Typically, among suspension type u-bolts, they are grade 5 up to 9/16 and grade8 for 5/8 and larger as 5/8 and larger are usually only
used on larger commercial vehicles. The late Cruiser u-bolts are 14mm. I use 9/16-18 for the u-bolt flip kits ( ~14.3mm) . They can easily handle
105-110 ft/lbs. 95-105 is a good range. At 100 ft/lbs you get almost 13000 lbs clamping force. The non graded bolt of the same diameter
will begin to yield at 45 ft/lbs and 5500 lbs of clamping force.
With any bolt, use the various online torque specs charts, available from fastener companies like Fastenall, Alma Bolt, etc. If the hardware you have
is not performing close to those specs, you have inferior hardware. Our u-bolts are manufactured in Illinois. I've used that same company since
the late 90's and never had a batch that wouldn't achieve expected performance

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

If a 9/16 (14mm) u-bolt is stretching or failing at 45 ft/lbs, it's a grade A or ungraded u-bolt and too soft for suspension parts.
Typically, among suspension type u-bolts, they are grade 5 up to 9/16 and grade8 for 5/8 and larger as 5/8 and larger are usually only
used on larger commercial vehicles. The late Cruiser u-bolts are 14mm. I use 9/16-18 for the u-bolt flip kits ( ~14.3mm) . They can easily handle
105-110 ft/lbs. 95-105 is a good range. At 100 ft/lbs you get almost 13000 lbs clamping force. The non graded bolt of the same diameter
will begin to yield at 45 ft/lbs and 5500 lbs of clamping force.
With any bolt, use the various online torque specs charts, available from fastener companies like Fastenall, Alma Bolt, etc. If the hardware you have
is not performing close to those specs, you have inferior hardware. Our u-bolts are manufactured in Illinois. I've used that same company since
the late 90's and never had a batch that wouldn't achieve expected performance

Thanks for the info. Guess these u-bolts aren't up to the task. I need to order some of yours

 

[Aussy]

Wow - been over a month.

Been thinking about what I need done before SAS this year. Last year was a pant-load of work.

After cutting the military wraps, been a different ride. I got mediums springs on the rear. It was a toss-up due to the full 4-Plus tire and basket kit (that is some heavy metal) - while is just level with nothing in it - I ended up getting the "add a leaf" kit Dobinsons is now offering. I know I ranted about them, but given the new life it seems to have, spending another $60 isn't catastrophic contribution to them. It arrives Monday - that will be on my list.

Speaking of, my must do list is....

• Add Leafs
• Install SMG hood pins
• Address oil leak around timing cover
• Check/tune
  • Spark Plugs
  • Adjust Valves
  • Timing
  • Lean drop
• Drive/offroad it and makes sure good-to go.

I have a long list of things I would like to do - not suitable to just list it all and will post what/if I do something on that list.

Anybody have an email for SMG so I can order the hinge pins?

 

[RevISK]

@SMG

@Aussy

 

[OlYellr]

@SMG

@Aussy

Thanks @RevISK!

Here is the link too (@Aussy)

Stainless Steel Windshield/Doors/Hood/Amby FJ40 Hinge Pins with Bronze Bushings. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stainless-steel-windshield-doors-hood-amby-fj40-hinge-pins-with-bronze-bushings.1036775/

 

[OlYellr]

Reading about @solomrus's work on his HZJ73 Cruiser's worn governor arm shaft and his temp fix last night, headed to the big city this morning to see what is up at the FullCircleRG (and took my hood hinges too).

The SMG installation got done. I could leave it at that I guess and have a picture - but I think I will draw it out... Basically, my hood rattles from worn hinges. The solution to date was some heater hose cut and placed on the firewall side of the hood - see the black strip in the pic below - did a decent job keeping rattles down...

This is on my list to get done so why not today - and with the rain, didn't want to drive whole rig.

I thought just take an air hammer to the pin to drive it out - as in 3 seconds or less, solve that problem. Rus thought press - Here is the setup -

Here is one disassembled - see the old pin after knocked out...

Here is a shot of the SMG bush against the original bush...

New bush installed...

Tip: IMO - see the original pin with the hashes on one end (picture above or two above). That is the last part of the hinge going in when installed, and if you look at the press picture closely - can see them up top - while the press did win easily, to remove in reverse, should have flipped the hinge 180.

 

[OlYellr]

@SMG's pins are legit. I have them on the door and now on my hood hinge - Still have windshield and Amb Doors in back to go at some point in the future.

Here is a video of before & after - can hear and see the rattle before and when I shake it after, no rattle or looseness.

 

[RevISK]

@SMG's pins are legit. I have them on the door and now on my hood hinge - Still have windshield and Amb Doors in back to go at some point in the future.

Here is a video of before & after - can hear and see the rattle before and when I shake it after, no rattle or looseness.

Science

 

[knuckle47]

I have them for my hood, doors and rear ambi doors…excellent !!

 

[OlYellr]

Getting ready for some weekend lashing on Yellr with @solomrus. Valve lashing, check plugs etc. It is been a year and want to check it out after all the driving done this last year.

I have a rattle with the rear ambulance door locks on driver side (upper and lower). The bushing is worn and rattles a lot. And by a lot, I mean pant load. Anyway - one of the screws on the bottom is soft and believe it or not can't find my JIS bit for a proper fit to remove. So deliberately wanting a screw loose. The will resolve that.

Last weekend, worked on @solomrus's HZJ73 Cruiser and did body mounts. Front bolts took air hammer to get out. Getting his rig ready for SAS9 too.

 

[OlYellr]

Day staring out meeting new MUD members and enjoying some old cars… great to meet you @Jeff

 

[OlYellr]

Before I started out my day and met Jeff then headed to the the FullCircleRG in the big city, I decided to get some baseline prior to doing some tune-up work after about 6K miles since the engine was rebuilt. Last 3 fuel-ups got 13.2, 13.7, 12.7 MPG in high(ish) winds and about half the miles on the interstate. Not bad at all.

Anyway - saw the vacuum after cold start - yish.

First up - inspect plugs. All showed signs of being lean and checking the gap, all were gapped too much - about .011 over spec - I had new spare in glove box, so put those in and the old ones are the "new" spares. Ensured gap was .031 in and installed.

Then on to the valves - first, I closed the heater hose line as it is not needed anymore and hoping to keep it as cool as possible in the cabin. Shot of valves after cover off and valve closed.

Jacked and spun rear - all valves were tight, as in tighter than grandmas Tupperware after Thanksgiving. Did valves - Rus check my work. Fired up...

RPM were higher and instant 18Hg vacuum. Kinda started better too.

Did lean drop method and best I could get was 19Hg Vacuum. Drives a lot better.

Didn't know how much power I was really missing until driving it around and seeing if I could tell a change with plugs and valve lash.

For the most part, ready for the season, SAS9, Black Hills, joy rides. Big things in the must do item are small items like put skid plate back on. Put the radiator cover on after powder coating, new battery.

 

[RevISK]

Awesome Bryan.
Glad you were able to get that missing vacuum back.