Builds My first '40 and the venture (3 Viewers)

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Decided to replace RMS and freeze plug since we are there and it was a heavy PITA to get there even though no real evidence oil was coming out. After removing the RMS - the garter was there and all was good. cleaned off all oil evidence to start over

Noticed on the oil pan - right at corner (in blue) - there was fresh oil drip - tightened the bolts a bit more careful not to pooch the cork gasket. My thought is oil drip from there caught the fly wheel - splattered up the top and around the freeze plug and between the gap with the block and bell housing at the freeze plug. maybe while driving the air dynamics created a suction that pulled it up that gap? Swinging in the air. Open to anything.

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Swiped @South Texas 97 idea in his thread about cutting some M12x1.25 bolts to put in bell housing so the transmission can track and slide on. I too, cut the bolt heads off (I used two 70 mm bolts I got from Ace) and then made a notch for a screwdriver to work in and out. Ended up only one picture of it - saved a lot of lifting etc.

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Now just driving around and seeing what is going on for the leaks/break in.

Oh yeah - replaced the temp sensor - that works great now.

That is it for now.
 
Kind of dry spell - and bit clustered - the powder coater can't find the hood safety latch - I can't drive it like I want to. Been slowly sleuthing MUD classified as they keep looking for it. Made a few small inquires as time affords before I was going to open up the big time ammo (aka Mark's Off Road). The issue is from 79+ the bib changed and safety release along with it - older ones won't work. I was having the same success in my limited search as finding fly sh!t in a bowl of cracked black pepper.

Then along calls Mark @65swb45 yesterday afternoon after seeing one of my queries and unburden me! Made my week! (Yes the coaters will pay for it, they owned it immediately.)

Huge thank you Mark, again! - The check is in the mail and will be excited when I return from my work trip to open that up.
 
Been awhile - got the latch when I got back from work travels! Heading back down to KC today. I will have more details in later posts on what has been going on. Lets just say learning a lot. (lot of patience, lot of new swear words, lot about engines, and a lot about having a laugh along the way).

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Been awhile - got the latch when I got back from work travels! Heading back down to KC today. I will have more details in later posts on what has been going on. Lets just say learning a lot. (lot of patience, lot of new swear words, lot about engines, and a lot about having a laugh along the way).
🍺👈😎

The “Zen” approach to LC enlightenment…
 
I've been holding out on ya...

If you know what this noise is, then you know. Oh you know.



I will post results and the journey later - spilled some of my guts to @mtn biker about it today.

After that, head to the big city and met an owner of a 71 today - he got my bull bar - I got a different one to install.
 
For those who didn't listen to me ramble on the podcast....

This video is the moment the universe sucker-punched me in my flabdominals. Like the saying goes, if it is you against the universe, it really is you against yourself.



That was the sound of the main bearing about to spin, and I did it.
 
I had some parts off getting powder coating. Hood safety latch was lost by them. So I never really could drive Yellr and blow the cobs out as it were. Drove it maybe 2 miles in the neighborhood when the oil leak was discovered. Left the thread hanging of with an oil leak with ERB #2 (Engine ReBuild cuz I will use ERB a lot apparently).

Pulled transmission and T-case - replace main seal etc, put it back. Fire it up, ok. Back it out of the garage.

My friend Mark asked if I hear that. Listen. Nope. Mark, "there is something."

Sound gets a little bit louder and I can hear the whumpin sound when accelerating - really can hear it with that video posted yesterday.

Turn it off. Trying to understand where sound is really coming from on the engine. Decide to start it and put the plugs one at a time to see if that does anything. Yep. #1 plug and sound goes away.

Push Yellr back into garage - He leaves to go to son's football game. I drain the radiator/block - then drop the oil pan after it cools some.

Glitter! must be happy times if glitter around.
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The video show us basically pulling the main bearing off and the #1 bearing is toast. It didn't spin. It did a number on the crank.
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and another shot of the area

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So what happened - I will do my best to be concise - ERB #1 (I was not around for a year) so Mark did it in KC. And when I returned and got it in Jan 2023 and started to drive it - it wasn't right - see the rants in this thread.

That ended up being metal particles in the block and the machine show didn't' say "oops" they didn't charge me to clean, new bore to the JimC pistons etc. for ERB#2 beginning of Sept.

Now that I am around, I want to build the engine. Using the tahoi brand - grab the main bearings with the trust on the sides first - Mark explains the tang to tang etc and away I go. And what is interesting the two halfs of the bearing have oil holes so no way to screw that up. Mark is with the FSM calling out torque specs -

Get to the first bearing location (there are 4), only one of the two halves have a hole for oil and I installed the wrong one plugging the oil. (Frick)

Basically we caught it before the bearing spun. Had it spun, I would have ruined the engine. In hind sight, not having the hood safety latch prevented any real driving. Mark said we were minutes away from losing it. The sound would growing as the Lubraplate (assembly lube) was being used up and replaced with the oil in most places.
 
So the crank is damaged - there are metal particles all over the engine so we yank it... again - getting pretty good at it.

Take it to the machine shop intact. Crank needs to be cut and everything needs a spa treatment. They go check cam, etc. I go and see if I can find main bearings for the new cut. Found some in UAE - non in US or AU.

Machine shop finished last Thursday. $500 to fix the bearing journals, polish cam, clean head and block, etc - there was an issue with ERB #1 and the thrust clearance - tried several brands all had same issue (Others on mud expressed similar exercise) so machine shop check and had to do a thrust cut for the "2f" main bearings.

Now engine is back from the machine shop for the 3rd time (Mind you Oct 9 I will have had this exactly 2 years) and ERB #3 starts Friday night!
 
Go slow - both touch everything, check everything.

Main Bearing at #1
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Number 2

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looks good - keep going... the thrust bearing...

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Yep - last one - lined up right for oil?

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Holes are all in the right spot now...
 
The plastigage showed all in spec per FSM - So final Lubraplate and install and move to pistons that the machine shop removed and packed up individually. FSM says direction of each ring opening relative to the piston facing the front of engine. Solid.

Checking everything - looks good. Oh yeah - I ended up buying a tapered compression ring installer from Summit for $29 - that was sooo much easier to install the pistons vs that sheet metal rap thing you can get from amazon for 15 bucks.

Summit Racing SME-90A3700 Summit Racing™ Adjustable Piston Ring Compressors | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-90A3700

Ready for piston #5
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But... problem with the oil rings - the top two compression rings were fine - the oil is not - the tip is missing for some reason. Insert any word you want cuz it was used.

It is late Friday or maybe early Sat. No way we are geting 60 over rings for a 2f engine then let alone this week. So that is where I sit in the water. Looking for 60 over piston rings. Like finding fly sh#t in cracked pepper. (I did - they are not chrome like these - but it said in stock)

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another shot.
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A good one vs a broken one.

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We’re you at standard journal size on your crank to start ERB#1? Now at 0.50 over?
No I wasn't - ERB # - crank was .05 then. The next size for bearings would be .25 but some grooves and had to bump up to .5 which is the end of the line for the crank then.

:rolleyes: and I drink:beer:
 
So then we started to drink. Swear. etc. Then we got Mark's 40 running and at least got something done.

I stayed the night and Sat, finally installed the @SMG pins on the doors. Freaking fantastic. door shuts properly, no thunks, effertless. High Speed, low Drag! Motivated to get the hood pins installed.

Also put channel run rubber in the door window frames.
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more
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Installed a @Racer65 mat in his 40, took his family out for lunch, cleaned his garage, helped him pull an engine for a 1gen 4-runner and headed back to NE

Then fessed up why I went silent on the podcast yesterday and thought I need to make amends here too, or provide entertainment.
 
We’re you at standard journal size on your crank to start ERB#1? Now at 0.50 over?
No I wasn't - ERB # - crank was .05 then. The next size for bearings would be .25 but some grooves and had to bump up to .5 which is the end of the line for the crank then.

:rolleyes: and I drink:beer:
I want to amend picture - The picture above are not the main bearings - I got to be honest, it has been a flurry and with parts and at times hard to keep straight. Those were connecting rod bearings. I bought that size by mistake - and never used.

here are the mains

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I went back over my notes and photos this am and I sit corrected the Mains were .25 with ERB #1. not .05.
 

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