Builds My first '40 and the venture
- Thread starter OlYellr
- Start date
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OlYellr
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #103
Tired from the last two days, didn’t make it as far as we wanted, some stuff just takes a while.
Engine is in, bib is mostly on, put the new grill badge on a few minutes ago drinking coffee.
Oil added while on hoist. did the first valve adjustment on the engine stand before we installed the engine (soooo much easier on the back)
Oh yeah - did a leak-down test too before we installed the engine - and the results 80/94 = 85%. Way better than the 50% before.
double check everything- brand new Toyota dizzy (I will edit with the part number - it is points one that people convert to electric via Pertronix - sucked on the vacuum advance port and could rear the diaphragm. Awesome! did it again and notice the internal mechanics not moving.
The screw holding the advance diaphragm to the dizzy was too long and preventing the shaft from moving. Added a washer to the one that came with it and now the internals move under vacuum works -
Today before I head back to NE, then to MN, is to get my heater hoses that I cleaned installed. The carb installed and finish the radiator upper hose.
Can’t find the bushing for the radiator support bracket and nut when all was torn down - these are the things that are taking time.
Maybe come back and finish up on Sunday. It is close (and we were saying that a lot stabbing the engine in yesterday).
Engine is in, bib is mostly on, put the new grill badge on a few minutes ago drinking coffee.
Oil added while on hoist. did the first valve adjustment on the engine stand before we installed the engine (soooo much easier on the back)
Oh yeah - did a leak-down test too before we installed the engine - and the results 80/94 = 85%. Way better than the 50% before.
double check everything- brand new Toyota dizzy (I will edit with the part number - it is points one that people convert to electric via Pertronix - sucked on the vacuum advance port and could rear the diaphragm. Awesome! did it again and notice the internal mechanics not moving.
The screw holding the advance diaphragm to the dizzy was too long and preventing the shaft from moving. Added a washer to the one that came with it and now the internals move under vacuum works -
Today before I head back to NE, then to MN, is to get my heater hoses that I cleaned installed. The carb installed and finish the radiator upper hose.
Can’t find the bushing for the radiator support bracket and nut when all was torn down - these are the things that are taking time.
Maybe come back and finish up on Sunday. It is close (and we were saying that a lot stabbing the engine in yesterday).
OlYellr
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #104
quick - update - spent time in the yesterday am putting the heater hoses/pipes together before heading back to NE - took longer than I thought - wanted to get the Carb on. Pict of some part # - what I found is the replacement part numbers for the hoses are longer, so ended up a) cutting them to length and b) have a lot of extra hose. I need to spend some more time, cleaning it up so it fits/looks better (it is pushing the floor mat out too much - it is odd to me that I only had one incident where I tweaked one pipe cleaning - yet they don't just go back together. I'm about to rename the rig to that of a mule like @Chungas Revenge - Ol Yellr is stubborn going back together.
Game plan is to resume Sunday - pretty sure we will work on it until it starts. So close. Now off to MN and back. more details hopefully this weekend.
Game plan is to resume Sunday - pretty sure we will work on it until it starts. So close. Now off to MN and back. more details hopefully this weekend.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
dmaddox
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Whoa....looks delicious!
OlYellr
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- Thread starter
- #111
OK here is the high level summary of yesterday - boss will wonder why I am not working after all my time off last two weeks.
Quick shoutout to the following MUD vendors - who help me get to this point... @65swb45, @Racer65, @cruiseroutfit, @Coolerman, @FJ40Jim, @Fourrunner, & @ToyotaMatt
There was an electrical short that would kill the engine - the PO shunted one of the lines to the chevy Dizzy and was a hack-job - that was creating some issues - in the vid - if I was paying attention to the camera could see the light get dimmer when in contact with the coil in the video.
Drove it 6 blocks after some starts/stops - IE... get it warm let it cool, rinse and repeat. Found a leak back at the bell housing - the rear main seal is new etc - so going to drop transmission Wednesday and talk a look - that or a plug?? Who knows, adding dye to oil today to help figure out where it is coming from. That will be about 4 hours+ ordeal. Argh. Eating my own works progress not perfection. It runs way way better just in the six block drive.
The temp sending unit got fried (hot wired and saw the needle move in the meter - so unit is bad)- ordered new one - heat gun showed good temps where you want/expect IE thermostat - entrance and Exit of radiator - was about a 60 degree drop between the two.
Few more parts to get today. Back to work - deets later.
Quick shoutout to the following MUD vendors - who help me get to this point... @65swb45, @Racer65, @cruiseroutfit, @Coolerman, @FJ40Jim, @Fourrunner, & @ToyotaMatt
- Install carb, shrink wrapped some new wires and connectors for the new coil etc.
- Got rid of the old Chevy dizzy and have a Toyota dizzy now(electronic) -
- started to add fluids - radiator - check for leaks - just 2. Not bad considering how many hose clamps I put on for that
- valve cover off - Spun the oil pump several times - saw some oil come to the head... finally - hyper sensitive to everything engine related with the second go-round.
- pulled spark plugs
- put cover back on -
- squirted oil on top of each cylinder and put plugs back in
- "Clear Prop!"
There was an electrical short that would kill the engine - the PO shunted one of the lines to the chevy Dizzy and was a hack-job - that was creating some issues - in the vid - if I was paying attention to the camera could see the light get dimmer when in contact with the coil in the video.
Drove it 6 blocks after some starts/stops - IE... get it warm let it cool, rinse and repeat. Found a leak back at the bell housing - the rear main seal is new etc - so going to drop transmission Wednesday and talk a look - that or a plug?? Who knows, adding dye to oil today to help figure out where it is coming from. That will be about 4 hours+ ordeal. Argh. Eating my own works progress not perfection. It runs way way better just in the six block drive.
The temp sending unit got fried (hot wired and saw the needle move in the meter - so unit is bad)- ordered new one - heat gun showed good temps where you want/expect IE thermostat - entrance and Exit of radiator - was about a 60 degree drop between the two.
Few more parts to get today. Back to work - deets later.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Yeah.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
It is really sad to see such a super high quality vendor like @lcwizard shutter his doors because of lack of business. Perhaps if we all found it within our budgets to purchase one of his awesome products things might turn around. He has some truly amazing offerings and it would be such a huge loss to the Land Cruiser crowd.
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I recommend an enthusiast with the time to commit take it to the next level and organize a group buy, where the organizer delivers a firm order to Dave, rather than a flood of inquiries that includes enough tire kickers to firm up Dave’s resolve to close.
such a great feeling after all of that work to have it running and driving under it's own power
OlYellr
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #118
Thanks Mark - I just created a new thread in the 40/50 willing to take it on so long as Dave agrees to it. It resembles more a stream of conscious vs a well worded post. (And no, I am not looking for any validation - that doesn't matter - what matters is we step up to the plate if we can for Dave). We will see -
Again, I thank you @65swb45 Mark! Statesman is an underwhelming word to describe your class.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #119
Off to KC tomorrow to work one leak - kind of a biggie - and get some odds and ends done.
I don't know if I said it or not, leak back by the bell housing. New rear main seal when the engine was assembled, yet it acts like that is what is going on. Taking the 4 hours or so to pull seats, cover, tranny, find leak, repair, put all back.
hopefully adjust the valves again too, else KC might fly solo - front valves might/must be loose - the knocking from from the front of the valve cover. need to be adjusted again anyway.
The hose clamps kit from Racer look great - I went OEM inside with the heater hose inside, and put his engine hosee kit on everywhere else. Yeah, Yellr is a mut.
Here is the tap the machine shop put in the exhaust manifold. (last Pic) It was leaking where that dowel goes through for the heat riser parts. And there was a leak with the adaptor and the manifold - new OEM studs put in the adaptor and manifold (thread were bad after all the years) and OEM nuts. Thought I had one of the galley plug. Can't find an image.
If all goes reasonably well tomorrow, think I will have the car back in Nebraska next week.
I don't know if I said it or not, leak back by the bell housing. New rear main seal when the engine was assembled, yet it acts like that is what is going on. Taking the 4 hours or so to pull seats, cover, tranny, find leak, repair, put all back.
hopefully adjust the valves again too, else KC might fly solo - front valves might/must be loose - the knocking from from the front of the valve cover. need to be adjusted again anyway.
The hose clamps kit from Racer look great - I went OEM inside with the heater hose inside, and put his engine hosee kit on everywhere else. Yeah, Yellr is a mut.
Here is the tap the machine shop put in the exhaust manifold. (last Pic) It was leaking where that dowel goes through for the heat riser parts. And there was a leak with the adaptor and the manifold - new OEM studs put in the adaptor and manifold (thread were bad after all the years) and OEM nuts. Thought I had one of the galley plug. Can't find an image.
If all goes reasonably well tomorrow, think I will have the car back in Nebraska next week.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #120
BLUF (that is Bottom Line Up Front): no silver bullet for the leak.
I might break up Wednesday effort in a few post for pict.
Took of the drive shafts off and dropped the tran & transfer. Looked at rear main seal - no evidence of any leak around RMS
swept it with a tool - no leak - kind of acted like the garter rolled -
then looked at cam freeze plug - in the pict can see oil at by the plug and at the top of the bell housing circled in blue. Thought is oil hits the spinning fly wheel and why you see it on the top of the housing -
another shot
Took the bell housing off. Look at the oil above the plug - then nothing above that. it is all dry above the oil splatter so nothing from above going below. Blue circle oil - everything else was dry.
argh.
I might break up Wednesday effort in a few post for pict.
Took of the drive shafts off and dropped the tran & transfer. Looked at rear main seal - no evidence of any leak around RMS
swept it with a tool - no leak - kind of acted like the garter rolled -
then looked at cam freeze plug - in the pict can see oil at by the plug and at the top of the bell housing circled in blue. Thought is oil hits the spinning fly wheel and why you see it on the top of the housing -
another shot
Took the bell housing off. Look at the oil above the plug - then nothing above that. it is all dry above the oil splatter so nothing from above going below. Blue circle oil - everything else was dry.
argh.
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