Builds My Father-in-Law's 1980 FJ40 (4 Viewers)

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Frankly, I started with stick welder and took me 30 years to get over the frustration of jamming the rod into the metal and getting it stuck. Once I switched to MIG…and that AUTO-SET feature… it’s like making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I started on 1/4” and 1/2” steel which was simple as you’re not burning through the metal…then adjusted my wire and technique for thin 16, 18 and 20 gauge metal…within a few weeks, I was filling in holes and closing gaps. I still use a few flap disks to really smooth out the bead but it has saved me thousands of dollars doing it myself.

Good luck to you
 
Frankly, I started with stick welder and took me 30 years to get over the frustration of jamming the rod into the metal and getting it stuck. Once I switched to MIG…and that AUTO-SET feature… it’s like making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I started on 1/4” and 1/2” steel which was simple as you’re not burning through the metal…then adjusted my wire and technique for thin 16, 18 and 20 gauge metal…within a few weeks, I was filling in holes and closing gaps. I still use a few flap disks to really smooth out the bead but it has saved me thousands of dollars doing it myself.

Good luck to you
Thanks! I'm starting on 1/8" to learn how the the MIG welder works before graduating to patching the rear quarter panels on my Cruiser.

Here I am psyched to get going!

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If you value your clothing…. Pick up a welding jacket…. I must have had a dozen shirts with holes all over the front. As dumb as it sounds, once you get going and feel a few sparks…instead of getting a long sleeve shirt, all I did was take a step back trying not to get burned…hell, I was on a roll.

1/8” is great. Your not burning through it and you can see the effects of heat. Excited for you
 

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