Builds My build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sd1975
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Just remove any that don’t go anywhere and plug whichever one leads back to the rest of the vacuum system. The only thing that should be left is the hose that attaches to the drivers side of the crossover pipe (90999-92002, plug that one) and the hose from the intake manifold to the boost sensor (90447-08060).
- Thread starter
- #84
The little black piece on the metal bracket (23265) is for the boost sensor, you want to keep both that and the hoses that go on it. The rest can get trashed.
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- #86
Oh okay I removed that I'll put it back on. Otherwise shes done! Thank u for the help
You’ll really notice if that boost sensor isn’t hooked up! It will trick the engine into thinking there is no boost, so it won’t add fuel. The result is extremely low power, even for a 2L-TE 
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- #88
You're talking about this little guy correct? This attaches to hard line that goes to intake. So I need to leave this inline and attach vacuum line from module on left fender to it?You’ll really notice if that boost sensor isn’t hooked up! It will trick the engine into thinking there is no boost, so it won’t add fuel. The result is extremely low power, even for a 2L-TE
This one:
There should be a short hose that goes to the intake manifold right below the throttle body, it hooks to that.
There should be a short hose that goes to the intake manifold right below the throttle body, it hooks to that.
You’re not. I replaced intake seals on my truck a while ago and did the same thing.
I have the same power box in my PZ. I decided to run a blue sea fuse box into the cab. I’d recommend doing this to have easy options later.
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- #92
Okay got it
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- #93
Wow! If you are on the fence about the EGR delete, do it! I know these things are dogs when it comes to power, but the increase in power is noticeable when you get rid of that crap! Runs stronger, smoother and EGT temps down. Lower constant temps while cruising and it cools much faster. Thanks to everyone for all your help. I was the furthest thing from a mechanic and still am, but I've been able to do most of the mods myself thanks to your guidance.
Done so far:
New rocker cover gasket (and painted)
Intake manifold and system removed cleaned of all sludge and deposits
EGR delete
New clutch fan
Oil catch can installed
Removed most of the exhaust system. New straight pipe soon
Water wetter added to Toyota coolant
Soon to come:
Waterless coolant (already have new high flow t-stat ready to install)
Manual hub conversion this week. Already have new hubs, adapter kit here Tuesday
New shocks all the way around, be here Wednesday
ARB rear locker by October hopefully
Done so far:
New rocker cover gasket (and painted)
Intake manifold and system removed cleaned of all sludge and deposits
EGR delete
New clutch fan
Oil catch can installed
Removed most of the exhaust system. New straight pipe soon
Water wetter added to Toyota coolant
Soon to come:
Waterless coolant (already have new high flow t-stat ready to install)
Manual hub conversion this week. Already have new hubs, adapter kit here Tuesday
New shocks all the way around, be here Wednesday
ARB rear locker by October hopefully
Why ARB over Harrop or factory?
I use shell spirax 80/90 gl5. I’m sure others will chime in.
- Thread starter
- #97
Finding a factory e locker for these is next to impossible. I think dems and republicans have a better chance of agreeing on something, than me finding one of those.
As far as Harrop, can you provide a part number that will FOR SURE work? Took me a month and many many emails and questions to figure out an ARB RD132 goes right in. Other than drilling airline hole, no mods needed to diff
I honestly don’t know for the Harrop. @wardharris would be the one to ask.
If you haven’t bought the arb, I can ask. Buddy to look for a factory locker from yahooauctions.co.jp
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- #99
Never heard of that, I'll have to check that out thank you
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