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- #121
Build My build thread
- Thread starter Sd1975
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I didn't worry about getting all the air out with the prep fluid. 2.5 gallons is plenty to get the job done. Also, hopefully you recovered the prep fluid. Apparently it can be used more than once.
If the upper rad hose is hot, then the t-stat is probably open. Don't think you have any issues there. The temp drop is just your radiator doing it's job. Unless your temp gauge was going above normal? What t-stat did you install? Did you make sure the little wiggle valve was at the top? Some t-stats are slower to open than others. Could be that it was just a little bit open when you felt the rad hoses.
Anyhow, good job switching to the Evans. I've been very happy with the product and I expect you will be also. My motor does run a little hotter, but I've had no cylinder head problems over the last 5 years of heavy abuse since I switched (up to 250F coolant temps a half dozen times a year when towing in summer up long steep hills). The main advantage is it keeps the cylinder head temperature more even due to no boiling around the pre-cups/valves which prevents the stresses leading to cracking.
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- #123
Thanks! Yeah it's a messy time consuming ordeal lol. I guess Evans doesnt sell test strips anymore. Hate to spend $20-$30 on a refractometer I may never use again. Wonder what the chances are mine is under 3% water content. I followed the directions on their website to a "T". I'd also hate to risk messing up my engine for $30
Chances are pretty good it's just fine. Especially as you used their prep fluid. Did you drain the block and blow out the heater core?
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- #125
Actually no I didnt do the heater core. Disconnected upper and lower radiator hoses, pulled thermostat, drained block and used shop-vac for radiator and through hole where thermostat was into block
That's all I did too. I think the vacuum blew coolant from the heater core if I remember right.
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- #127
What was your water percentage when done? If you remember
I tested with one of those refractometer deals and the water percentage was imperceptible.
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- #129
Good deal, mines probably fine then. Now time to start looking at mods to increase HP like you did!
- Thread starter
- #130
So I think I ran into some big problems today installing my ARB.
So ARB Oz tells me the RD132 is the correct rear locker for my vehicle. Here's the problem though, the one end is longer than the original. Using calipers, the other end is perfect. The distance from end of "shaft" to flat side of ring gear on ring gear side is exactly the same. It's just like the one end is too long. I could machine it down but then would void warranty and I'd be out $1000k if it didnt work. All other measurements are exact. Any ideas?
So ARB Oz tells me the RD132 is the correct rear locker for my vehicle. Here's the problem though, the one end is longer than the original. Using calipers, the other end is perfect. The distance from end of "shaft" to flat side of ring gear on ring gear side is exactly the same. It's just like the one end is too long. I could machine it down but then would void warranty and I'd be out $1000k if it didnt work. All other measurements are exact. Any ideas?
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- #137
Hey guys, how did you wire in your IC pump? I have a relay, 30amp fuse holder. If I remember right, @GTSSportCoupe said he used the power box under hood and has it wired where it will run all the time when vehicle is on. This is fine with me because egt's are always high. Lid on box says to not use larger fuses than specified. Can I throw a 30 amp fuse in there on ignition post to power pump. We are at a standstill until we get this.
I would say to run the main load side of the relay directly from the battery, through the 30A fuse, then the relay and to the pump. The power for the control side of the relay will come from the IG fuse in the accessory power box.
What pump are you using? Mine runs nonstop on a 15 amp. If you are using the Bosch pump, that is all that is required. 30 amp seems way over sized, so not much protection for the pump if you short a wire.