Lift that 
up!
up!
My 76 1UZ build
- Thread starter YukonCruisers
- Start date
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RUSH55
SILVER Star
Troublesome little flap of sheetmetal! My tires have caught there and bent it in the same place. Been debating lately whether to cut it off or bend it up further (creating a dirt catch). Also the possibility of lowering the bump-stops to try to prevent contact there.
- Thread starter
- #403
@samc2447 apparently 32.5 
@RUSH55 unfortunately, that rub was only on a slight angle, I will need something other than bump stops to wheel it. I really don't want to limit my turning or range radius either. I have to do some body work anyway, so I will look at what I can do there - I think a straight cut will be prone to rust as will a roll as you say, ideally I raise the edge and then re-flap it like the original, just an inch higher.
Here is a question for you all though, what happens when the springs are mounted backwards? putting the mil wrap forward will buy me almost an inch I think (they are J70 springs and the pin is forward of centre) - not taking this option too seriously, but maybe...
@RUSH55 unfortunately, that rub was only on a slight angle, I will need something other than bump stops to wheel it. I really don't want to limit my turning or range radius either. I have to do some body work anyway, so I will look at what I can do there - I think a straight cut will be prone to rust as will a roll as you say, ideally I raise the edge and then re-flap it like the original, just an inch higher.
Here is a question for you all though, what happens when the springs are mounted backwards? putting the mil wrap forward will buy me almost an inch I think (they are J70 springs and the pin is forward of centre) - not taking this option too seriously, but maybe...
Yes trimmed that little flap out and rolled the edge back, 35"-12.5"-15" tire on a 15"-8"-3.5" back space rim. I wheeled that combo reasonably hard without issue.
I even managed to get some forklift flexy pictures for @RUSH55
What kind of noises do you have?
- Thread starter
- #407
I think this is the play - tires are 35/12.5/15 as well, can't recall the backspacing, but its the minimum to clear the calipers. Will take a few days to think about how much, but this is my preferred direction.
A few
I have a squeaky belt, think it's actually a wobbly pully or the belt needs tightening (I had removed the hydraulic fan and removed the old pully and had to resize the belt - that could be it); I also might have had some driveline noinses, but they were inconsistent and given the very short run I did, I didn't have time to isolate - I ran it maybe a half mile and under 35mph. It also was smoking a bit as its the first time the exhaust has been heated up - so with all that going on and worrying about how much damage I was goin to do when I turned around, I wasn't too focused. Ran straight though, and the v8 sounds amazing though the single muffler.What I should have done was hook up the computer and recorded the run - the tune I have on the motor is basic, so that will need time and thought at some point as well.
all in all, a good milestone yesterday.
- Thread starter
- #408
So the contact point is the red area (maybe a bit to the left), thinking I will cut and fold along or just above blue line.. kinda corner to corner...if that doesnt clear, i will try corner to corner, but arch the middle.
I only cut the inner flap-lip-chunk of sheet metal whatever you want to call it then folded it up. Once that's done just grab the outer edge of the fender with a gloved had and pull it outward, it will move a surprising amount.
- Thread starter
- #410
Interesting, I will start there and check for clearance, can always cut more if needed, thanks!
- Thread starter
- #412
Canada Day was yesterday here so I pieced together a longer weeked, took care of a pile of my wife's list and managed to get in the pig. Got the electrical sorted, the seatbelts in, the storage in the back of the pig tidied away and took it for a very short run before realizing the one fluid I didn't check was the transmission - easy fix. I wanted to try running without a stabilizer bar... that's on order now. I am getting a weak response from my brakes though almost to the floor before any kind of grab, will have to go back and check pressure to the booster or maybe re-bleed the system. Ah well, hopefully down tot he short strokes here.
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- Thread starter
- #413
Another shake down run, have a weird transmission sound like a loose rattle when coming in and out of gear or on and off the throttle. Seems to be quite far forward, makes me wonder if I messed something up when installing the clutch - it does have a hydraulic throw out bearing, but cant see how that's an issue, shifts smoothly.. any ideas?
Also discovered alternator is not charging, so something to fix there too.
Also discovered alternator is not charging, so something to fix there too.
- Thread starter
- #415
@BoomerUZ
good idea re the alternator, thanks.
re the set up, its a r150f transmission, the ebay KSRacing kit from thailand - they are still selling them, includes bell housing and clutch kit, and then I replaced the TOB with a Howes racing hydraulic. (BB Double, but sound is in front of that; also, on page 4 of this thread JMack helped sort the TOB)
Cheers
good idea re the alternator, thanks.
re the set up, its a r150f transmission, the ebay KSRacing kit from thailand - they are still selling them, includes bell housing and clutch kit, and then I replaced the TOB with a Howes racing hydraulic. (BB Double, but sound is in front of that; also, on page 4 of this thread JMack helped sort the TOB)
Cheers
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did you space the TOB appropriately? when I used the clutch masters billet one with a cd009 I had to take a bunch of measurements and shim it right. it was a little rattly, but nowhere near what youre experiencing.
As for the alt, it NEEDS all the wiring to be how it was OEM to work right because otherwise it would be too easy.
- Thread starter
- #417
Yes, I went through the process of getting a resistor in the path to supposedly give it the right feedback, but i was just following someone else's thread as opposed to actually knowing what I was doing there - will get a replacement ordered once I confirm measurements.
I hope I got the TOB right, spent a fair bit of time there ensuring the correct shimming etc. - but obviously something is around there. Initailly I had a noise tied to the twin sticks, they are finiky in terms of the spacing for the shifter is close, has a forward gear that was slightly disengaged and it made a rattle - now fixed.
Need this guy to diagnose:
the one I am getting is the A1006 chrome 
CS130 one from Whoosphy on amazon for $130 "chrome 160 amp CS130 alternator with serpentine pulley replacement for GM Chevy SBC BBC 6.2L 6.5L 7.4L A1006C" is the exact title. Being a 1 wire I am probably going to put it where the power steering pump was or where the alt is now - who knows. I have scrap steel and a welder. ill put the damn thing on the roof if I have to lol
CS130 one from Whoosphy on amazon for $130 "chrome 160 amp CS130 alternator with serpentine pulley replacement for GM Chevy SBC BBC 6.2L 6.5L 7.4L A1006C" is the exact title. Being a 1 wire I am probably going to put it where the power steering pump was or where the alt is now - who knows. I have scrap steel and a welder. ill put the damn thing on the roof if I have to lol
gonzopancho
SILVER Star
