- Thread starter
- #41
Builds My 40 Build... 20 years and Counting... Purists beware, this may hurt... :D (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bikersmurf
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- Thread starter
- #42
The vent windows on my pre-75 doors have been ratteling on the top. Worst on the drivers side.
I took a moment and unbolted the block at the top. I then slipped a juice box straw over the pin at the top of the window (that goes into the block). After cutting off the excess, I reinstalled the block.
On the drivers side I slit a length to add a second layer to take up the extra play. On the passengers side, the one layer was enough. It remains to be seen how it'll stand up, but for the forseeable future, the metal on metal rattle is gone... worst case, I've got a steady supply of Sunripe juice box straws.
I took a moment and unbolted the block at the top. I then slipped a juice box straw over the pin at the top of the window (that goes into the block). After cutting off the excess, I reinstalled the block.
On the drivers side I slit a length to add a second layer to take up the extra play. On the passengers side, the one layer was enough. It remains to be seen how it'll stand up, but for the forseeable future, the metal on metal rattle is gone... worst case, I've got a steady supply of Sunripe juice box straws.
- Thread starter
- #43
Never underestimate the importance of a ground
Over the years, I've learned how important grounds are. The first time was when I hadn't bothered hooking up the "harness to frame ground", under the gas tank. Years later I had similar problems after installing non-conductive fiberglass fenders. Some day soon, I'll have to go through the grounds... Bumper to bumper. This will help to ensure I don't have any unpleasant surprises.
Over the years, I've learned how important grounds are. The first time was when I hadn't bothered hooking up the "harness to frame ground", under the gas tank. Years later I had similar problems after installing non-conductive fiberglass fenders. Some day soon, I'll have to go through the grounds... Bumper to bumper. This will help to ensure I don't have any unpleasant surprises.
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- Thread starter
- #44
It's only taken 3 years, but the extra tank is in. Thanks to all who helped.
Also found a Locking gas cap... Won't fit behind the stock door, but works great on the 2nd tank.
Gates 31671. Not sure on all the years it'll fit, but it is the locking equivalent to a Stant 10806.
locking fuel cap numbers and more
Also found a Locking gas cap... Won't fit behind the stock door, but works great on the 2nd tank.
Gates 31671. Not sure on all the years it'll fit, but it is the locking equivalent to a Stant 10806.
locking fuel cap numbers and more
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- Thread starter
- #45
Rebuilt my older Import floor Jack...
Don't think your jack can't work like new again.
15-20 year old Harbour Freight Floor jack rebuild
Including list of Part numbers to replace all seals and O-rings. If your jack is different, you can likely still get the parts you need from the same suplier.
Don't think your jack can't work like new again.
15-20 year old Harbour Freight Floor jack rebuild
Including list of Part numbers to replace all seals and O-rings. If your jack is different, you can likely still get the parts you need from the same suplier.
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- Thread starter
- #46
Anyone know how to fix all of the links?
I could try to cross reference them to my albums, but I'm just wondering if there's a way that wouldnt take 2 hrs.
I could try to cross reference them to my albums, but I'm just wondering if there's a way that wouldnt take 2 hrs.
You could ask Woodrow why they changed, but I'd guess it would take more like 20 minutes if you use two windows and just copy/paste the image URLs.
- Thread starter
- #48
Done.
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- Thread starter
- #49
Missed a couple threads on the rear heater.
Insulating lines...
Insulating pipes to rear heater... Need ideas.
Two speed Rear heater motors...
Two speed rear heater.
And the difference between a 1 speed and a two speed motor is a second wire and a 4 ohm resistor.
Insulating lines...
Insulating pipes to rear heater... Need ideas.
Two speed Rear heater motors...
Two speed rear heater.
And the difference between a 1 speed and a two speed motor is a second wire and a 4 ohm resistor.
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- Thread starter
- #50
Feeling a little discouraged toady...
Drove a heep YJ the other day (gutless 4 banger with a rusty frame... but it was finished). After 22 years I'm wishing mine was "finished" and that I didn't have a long list of things waiting to be done on it. I'm tired of being to sick to work on it, but glad to still be able to drive it.
For a brief, very brief, moment, I considered... I can't say... I'm too ashamed.
Anyways, why who I want to own a gutless, flimsy truck that doesn't get significantly better fuel economy than the 40 I own.
I just need to finish up mine, and not be seduced by shiny paint 
, hole free floors 
, and a long to do list 
.
Drove a heep YJ the other day (gutless 4 banger with a rusty frame... but it was finished). After 22 years I'm wishing mine was "finished" and that I didn't have a long list of things waiting to be done on it. I'm tired of being to sick to work on it, but glad to still be able to drive it.
For a brief, very brief, moment, I considered... I can't say... I'm too ashamed.
Anyways, why who I want to own a gutless, flimsy truck that doesn't get significantly better fuel economy than the 40 I own.
I just need to finish up mine, and not be seduced by shiny paint , hole free floors , and a long to do list .
- Thread starter
- #51
The brake booster I bought from the wreckers 20 years ago was sick. So I threw in the spare off the shelf. After storing it for 18 years, it didn't work right. Both boosters hld air for days... but something inside doesn't work.
So back to the drawing board. Since I haven't seen a 40 at the wreckers in 15 years, had to search through mud. Fortunately, someone was building his dream diesel 80 locally here. As a result he was parting out a 1991 JDM 81.
I had to cut 1/2" off the pushrod, shorten the yoke adjustment, rotate it 180 degrees, and adjust the routing of the brake lines a bit... but it works. I was able to bolt on the stock 74 Brake master after adjusting the rod. It'll take some getting used to, now that the booster really works well.
Next up will be swapping in the 1" master from the 80 series.... but for now the 40 master will continue to do the job.
So back to the drawing board. Since I haven't seen a 40 at the wreckers in 15 years, had to search through mud. Fortunately, someone was building his dream diesel 80 locally here. As a result he was parting out a 1991 JDM 81.
I had to cut 1/2" off the pushrod, shorten the yoke adjustment, rotate it 180 degrees, and adjust the routing of the brake lines a bit... but it works. I was able to bolt on the stock 74 Brake master after adjusting the rod. It'll take some getting used to, now that the booster really works well.
Next up will be swapping in the 1" master from the 80 series.... but for now the 40 master will continue to do the job.
- Thread starter
- #52
Link to booster thread...
Booster experts? Brake master?
Booster experts? Brake master?
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- Thread starter
- #53
Upgraded the Master and Booster to 80 series parts. WOW, what a difference!
Here's the thread.
"Shorter" 80 master and booster install in 40
Here's the thread.
"Shorter" 80 master and booster install in 40
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- Thread starter
- #54
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such a "can do" attitude, Biker ... very practical ride with tons of character ... in my opinion that's what 40s are all about ... you made the right decision re the heep, based on my 11 yr experience with a CJ ... all vehicles need TLC, and the good news about 40s is they're easy to work on (most of the time) ...
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I guess a couple of yrs ago you were inquiring about air tanks. A friend had good success @ a semi junk yard. He purchased several different sizes cheap. I hate to admit it, but I've purchased a couple of solid cheap yj's to drive on the blacktop, and then sell them for good profits. Kids eat them up. I also like driving a 40 style vehicles(convertible w/no doors). The worst part about driving a yj, is other h**p owners are always waving @ you!
Nice thread, keep it rolling.
Nice thread, keep it rolling.
- Thread starter
- #57
Re air tanks: I found a twin tank compressor at home depot on clearance for $25. Haven't cut it up yet, but tanks that'll fit, regulator, gauges, pressure switch, air lines, etc. was a deal I couldn't pass up. Just have to decide if I'll also mount the 110v compressor somewhere on the truck to supplement the A/C pump.
I figure a set of rear Air-Bags will be the next mod...
I figure a set of rear Air-Bags will be the next mod...
- Thread starter
- #58
Came arcoss this old thread...
Never underestimate the importance of a ground
Over the years I've had problems with ground a few times, when multiple circuits aren't working right, the ground is almost always the culprit.
Never underestimate the importance of a ground
Over the years I've had problems with ground a few times, when multiple circuits aren't working right, the ground is almost always the culprit.
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- Thread starter
- #59
With the gas prices these days, Locking gas caps are more worthwhile...
A thread on the topic...locking fuel cap numbers and more
They don't fit under the stock fuel door though.
A thread on the topic...locking fuel cap numbers and more
They don't fit under the stock fuel door though.
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- Thread starter
- #60
Air bag experience
I've added rear air bags! They're awesome! Level, smoother ride, adjustable, and improved flex.
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