Builds My 40 Build... 20 years and Counting... Purists beware, this may hurt... :D (1 Viewer)

[bikersmurf]

Now with the crush tubes welded in, scab plates welded on, and the box mounted up with Grade 8 bolts.

The cotter pin will go in after final adjustments and tweaks are made.

Next up, flushing the P/S fluid through the box and connecting the lines.

 

[bikersmurf]

View attachment 2852744​

View attachment 2852743

Anyone considering these adjusters, do it. They are such a slick design and I’m sure they’d work great. I spent hours designing and fabricating my P/S tensioner and am thrilled with the results… but Matt’s adjusters would be perfect for more stock applications.

 

[bikersmurf]

Ramshorn Manifolds - Melting Plug Boots/wires

What are you guys running for Heat protection on ramshorn Manifolds My Plug Wire Boots are melting on the 2 inner plugs.. Summit has a buch of products for hose and wire sleeves.. Also, Alot in the Archives about plug wires, but no real answers for what works and what dosent.. some...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[bikersmurf]

Progress on the drivers side shock tower. To clear the steering box required taking a wedge out of the Ford shock tower and bending the corner across.

Weld on the front of the seam.

And the back.

Building up the corner so it’s equal in length.

Ready for some primer and paint.

 

[bikersmurf]

It’ll be a rare Doorman Aftermarket shock tower… Ford tower for the Fj40 - International Edition.

 

[bikersmurf]

Ready to install…

Fortunately the paint was dry before they got rained on.

 

[bikersmurf]

Test fit… just need to bolt in on.

 

[bikersmurf]

The hard side is done…

After a couple other strategies, I ran a scrap of mig wire through the top hole in the frame, then the top hole, and tied it to a small scrap of wood to prevent the wire from being pulled out. I then pulled the bar through to the inside of the frame. I used a screw driver to help centre it over the bolt holes. I was then able to put a bolt in through the lower hole. Once it was snugged down a bit, I cut the mig wire and threaded in the top bolt. Victory!

The passenger side should be way easier since there is a hole through the inner frame rail inline with the mount.

 

[bikersmurf]

Picked this up for sewing for the many sewing projects around an old cruiser that home machines weren’t built to handle. American made, built in the late 30s-40s, 5/16” material capacity, 1/3 hp variable speed motor… should handle whatever I need it to.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

me 2 ............

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Ready to express mail usps out to you ...........

 

[bikersmurf]

Progress.

The engine had developed a quiet lifter tick. Since I’d not readjusted the valves after the initial installation of a different cam, I decided the valves should be adjusted. After a couple attempts to adjust the hydraulic valves by first having them a #1 TDC on compression stroke and then adjusting certain valves, and then rotating the crank 360* and then adjusting the remaining 8 valves it wasn’t running right. The tick was gone, but now the vacuum gauge was flickering at idle. I suspected that one (or more) valves wasn’t sealing properly or I’d wiped some lobes off the cam.

I pulled both valve covers and cranked the engine over. All the valves appeared to be opening and closing proper. So it wasn’t a f’ed up cam. So I proceeded to adjust all the valves in firing order… adjusting both intake and exhaust and rotating till TDC of the next compression stroke. After all 8 were done put the covers on and fires her up. It idled super smoothly till it ran out of gas. I didn’t realize that tank was so low.

After pouring some in from a Jerry can I ran over to the gas station. $90 bucks later at $2.15/litre I figured it would be good for a while. It now wouldn’t idle quite right. I tried to make it run right, but it started running like there was bad gas or moisture in the tank:

I drove it around and just when I thought I was through with the bad gas it would run sh!tty again. Pulled the top of the carb and cleaned some shmag and jelly out of the bottom. Still wouldn’t idle right and it surged at a high idle and even when driving with light throttle. It was acting like it was lean… but sometimes smelled rich. I burnt up as much fuel as I dared and decided to pump the tanks dry.

After pumping out the last 10 litres of fuel and putting in 5 of fresh gas, it still wouldn’t idle. The gas was part of the issue, because even at 3600ish rpm the mower would randomly die when burning it. Even with the electric starter I couldn’t get it to start again until I drained some gas out and tried again. The old gas looked crystal clear and didn’t smell terrible it was part of the issue.

So I asked google why an Edelbrock 1406 won’t idle. The answers were somewhat surprising. I found threads describing engines that wouldn’t idle right, fluctuating rpms, stalling at lower rpm, rich smell at “idle”, and restarting after pumping gas. All of which sounded very familiar.

The problem consistently seemed to be the idle circuits. Apparently 1406 Edelbrock carb’s idle circuits easily get clogged. The solution described was to remove the 2 idle mixture screws and spray carb cleaner down the hole with the “straw” or blow compressed air down the hole.

I sprayed cleaner down the first hole and it seemed clear (or to clear out with it). On the second hole the cleaner didn’t flow out but instead backed up and overflowed out the top of the hole. So next I tried compressed air down both holes at higher pressure with the rubber covered nozzle tight to the holes. Air seamed to flow through freely. I confirmed this by spraying some cleaner through both mixture holes. Both now flowed freely,

After setting both mixture screws to 1.5 turns out from bottom, I started the engine. After it warmed up somewhat, I found it ran best at 1 turn out, and it would idle smoothly at 650 rpm. Crisp throttle response, no more surging, and smooth idle. After I drive it some I’ll fine tune the idle… but it seems to be running great again.

 

[bikersmurf]

Clutch was slowly re-engaging when depressed. Today I found out why…

For some reason this was leaking down a tad.

Bought replacements through Amazon since no one had them locally… even Toyota.

The slave seemed like a great deal… open box for something like $16. Unfortunately too good a deal. Problem was it was machined to 7/16 not 10mm.

A couple fittings and we are back in business…

Not my first choice, but I’ll worry about it again in 2032 when it’s due to be replaced next.

For now it’s bled and flushed with a new hard line. Replacing the master will be a problem for a different day.

 

[bikersmurf]

Turns out, despite how bad it looked, the slave wasn’t the problem. After replacing the slave the clutch felt way smoother. However, after my test drive, the clutch still reengaged while the pedal was depressed (weaving between parked cars while backing into the driveway).

Because I’m running an 80 series booster I had to remove the 4 nuts that hold the booster to the firewall. After that I could access the 3 bolts than hold the clutch master to the firewall. Upon close examination of the new clutch master…

I noticed the yoke was steel vs the copper yoke on the TEQ master I just removed. Since there wasn’t significant wear on original yoke I swapped them.

At first the pedal was halfway to the floor and the clutch wouldn’t disengage. After lengthening the input pushrod, the clutch now has free play before the throw out bearing touches the clutch fingers and the clutch pedal fully disengages the clutch (as it should).

Now, once again theses July’74 components are working with the 11” LUK low diaphragm clutch. You may notice in the screenshots that I looked up ‘73 components. The both the slave and master were the same in ‘73. In August’74, the 3/4” slave was changed to 13/16” and some companies show it as ‘74 and up. I wanted to ensure the slave was 3/4” because a 13/16” slave would have slightly less travel. Stock Chevy clutches need all the travel a Landcruiser setup can deliver.

If I cared enough, I could do the calculations to determine how much less travel the larger slave would have… Oh what the heck… (3/4) / (13/16) = 0.9174 x 100 = 91.74%. In simple English, the 13/16 slave would have roughly 8% less travel than a 3/4” slave with the same master. I believe this is why I’ve never had problems with my LUK clutch in my SBC conversion. I still have some minor tweaks to do, but at this time the clutch disengages about half way too the floor.

Since ‘96 this is the first time I’ve ever had issues with my SBC clutch. The components had gone 12 years since they were last rebuilt. Based on previous experience I expect the seal in the master has worn away, and this photo of the slave makes it clear why the slave wasn’t working as it should.

Seeing this much rust makes me wonder how it worked at all… not why it wasn’t working 100%

 

[B y r o n]

You can do what I did and use an old single circuit brake master in place of the clutch master. It has a larger bore and moves more fluid which gives you more travel.

 

[bikersmurf]

You can do what I did and use an old single circuit brake master in place of the clutch master. It has a larger bore and moves more fluid which gives you more travel.

I did the conversion 26 years ago. When the master cylinder started bypassing an the slave started leaking was the first time I've even had the smallest issue with having enough travel.

Switching to a 1" master cylinder from a 3/4" master cylinder would increase the force to depress the clutch would increase by roughly 33%. Given that the 3/4" slave connected to a 3/4" master with a braided stainless steel line provide enough travel to have free-play and still disengage the clutch while only using about 1/2 of the pedals stroke increasing the stroke at the cost of increasing the force seems unnecessary. Combine that with a blown left knee that doesn't love pushing a clutch in the first place, I don't see any reason to switch from what is working great.

 

[bikersmurf]

I need a couple dimensions. I came across this one today:

Eventually I’ll need the dimension “A”:

My tub was gone and when I built mine it was completely rusted away. I had to guess the dimension previously and when I fix my 1/4s I’ll need to track it down.

I shamelessly stole the picture from @Ambrose

 

[ToyotaMatt]

about time you revived this NOS build thread ........


happy new year mr. smurf

 

[bikersmurf]

about time you revived this NOS build thread ........


happy new year mr. smurf

Haven’t been doing a lot with it lately. Although for almost a week I was driving it daily because of the “unexpected” winter driving conditions. Busses weren’t running and most of the city shut down.

Around ‘97 I converted a Frigidaire A/C compressor to have onboard air. At the time I used a Furnas Pressure switch to control when it turned on and off. After 25 years the 250v 20a switch contacts were intermittently giving me trouble and it was leaking air again. The last time it was hissing I was able to tighten some screws and it seemed to hold air again. Now, many years later it was leaking again. Since it was only 19* F, and it was nearing the end of its useful life I decided to replace it rather than see if I could limp it a bit longer.
When I bought the last pressure switch 25 years ago it was fairly cheap and I didn’t see a lot of options. Now when I called the same shop it was about $70 USD. When I looked online I found 12v compressor switches that were neat and compact for about $10 USD.
Amazon product ASIN B08BPDCLMX

This unit is about the size of 1/2 a roll of quarters, appears to be fairly well sealed and was a fraction of the cost. For $10 I could easily pickup a spare… but in a pinch I could bypass it on the trail, so at least for the time being I’ll not worry about it.

For reference this is roughly what the Furnas pressure switch looked like:

About the size of an electrical box, not at all sealed, and not designed for 12v dc electricity. (Although I’ve got no complaints since I retired it after 25 years. If the new compressor switch lasts anywhere near that long I’ll be happy.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Haven’t been doing a lot with it lately. Although for almost a week I was driving it daily because of the “unexpected” winter driving conditions. Busses weren’t running and most of the city shut down.

Around ‘97 I converted a Frigidaire A/C compressor to have onboard air. At the time I used a Furnas Pressure switch to control when it turned on and off. After 25 years the 250v 20a switch contacts were intermittently giving me trouble and it was leaking air again. The last time it was hissing I was able to tighten some screws and it seemed to hold air again. Now, many years later it was leaking again. Since it was only 19* F, and it was nearing the end of its useful life I decided to replace it rather than see if I could limp it a bit longer.
When I bought the last pressure switch 25 years ago it was fairly cheap and I didn’t see a lot of options. Now when I called the same shop it was about $70 USD. When I looked online I found 12v compressor switches that were neat and compact for about $10 USD.
Amazon product ASIN B08BPDCLMXView attachment 3207060
This unit is about the size of 1/2 a roll of quarters, appears to be fairly well sealed and was a fraction of the cost. For $10 I could easily pickup a spare… but in a pinch I could bypass it on the trail, so at least for the time being I’ll not worry about it.

For reference this is roughly what the Furnas pressure switch looked like:View attachment 3207061

About the size of an electrical box, not at all sealed, and not designed for 12v dc electricity. (Although I’ve got no complaints since I retired it after 25 years. If the new compressor switch lasts anywhere near that long I’ll be happy.

i think i have a few NOS Toyota rubber boots / caps for that style type of switch ?

you know a weather cover thing ...

as i recall they have the electrical female terminals molded inside , and 2 pigtails ....


most likely a DENSO-thingy service part snappy idea .,.