Builds My 40 Build... 20 years and Counting... Purists beware, this may hurt... :D

[bikersmurf]

I’m curious on the ThermoKing heater. What’s that from? I need something compact like that for the cruiser and the f100.

It’s an under the dash A/C unit. Based on my limited research it’s probably from the 1970s. The unfortunate week point in them is the blower.

Here’s the modern equivalent from Vintage Air:

You’re likely looking for something more like this:

Although it’s twice as deep.

 

[archie73]

It’s an under the dash A/C unit. Based on my limited research it’s probably from the 1970s. The unfortunate week point in them is the blower.

Here’s the modern equivalent from Vintage Air:

You’re likely looking for something more like this:
View attachment 3505223
Although it’s twice as deep.

Thanks for the follow up. I was digging the look of the ThermKing. But sounds like it’s tough to find. Thanks

 

[bikersmurf]

Thanks for the follow up. I was digging the look of the Thermo King. But sounds like it’s tough to find. Thanks

I like the look of it too. I'm getting so that I can't tolerate heat as well anymore... in the past I'd have never considered A/C. I like the look of this one and it is close enough to stock that it could fool the casual observer.

Here's OEM

Vs Thermo King:

Side by side they are different, but at least it'll look like it belongs in a 1974 Landcruiser. You can't see in the picture that there are also two circular vents in the front corners.

 

[bikersmurf]

Would you be able to send me a photo of the mounting points for your grab handle?

View attachment 3505138

Here's a picture I found of one here on mud. I bought mine around '98-99 from SOR. It is a ConFer bar. The one pictured above looks slightly deeper but it mounts the same.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Here's a picture I found of one here on mud. I bought mine around '98-99 from SOR. It is a ConFer bar. The one pictured above looks slightly deeper but it mounts the same.

Thanks!!

 

[bikersmurf]

Drilled out the rivets and drilled new holes for the mount.

Bolted in the new position with 1/2” bolts.

“60 series” damper mounted on a 40 series to allow for the different mounting position since there is no longer a center arm.

 

[bikersmurf]

Picked up a recently rebuilt ‘76 axle housing.

Axle housing from a local club member and 3rd I’ve had for many years cleaned up and about to be assembled.

End goal is to have matching ratios in my front and rear diffs…

Been too many years coming.

In about ‘94, when I converted to front disc brakes, I rebuilt my current front axle. At the time the king pin bearings (short of a better name) were ok… but by this point 100k miles later the axle needs to be completely rebuilt.

So why swap it?

Jonathan had an axle sitting in his shop that he pulled 6 months after completely rebuilding it with Toyota parts. It has been sitting for about 15 years, but everything looks great. He sold it to me for about what the new parts would have cost, and most of the work is done.

I’ve now dropped in my second 3.70 3rd which has been waiting to go in for more than 12 years. Once I throw in one of my sets of inner axles it can be swapped into my 40. While I’m at it I’ll add alignment wedges to increase my castor, and probably add the slightly longer shackles I’ve also got to put in.

 

[bikersmurf]

Assembled, cleaned, painted, and ready for inner axles.

 

[bikersmurf]

Well, it’s in… sort of. I’ll need to dig out my thin wall 24mm socket to tighten the u-bolts, re-plumb the brakes, connect the driveshaft, swap the inner axles, and add some 80w90.

 

[bikersmurf]

Tired of watching paint drying…

I picked up a couple $1 12 point sockets at the Habitat for humanity ReStore. 15/16 & 1”.
I found that 1” wouldn’t fit through the skid plate, but the 15/16” did (just slightly smaller than 24mm).

Initial torque of the U-bolts. These skid plates aren’t the latest option, but when I bought them 25+ years ago, they were better than these…

I’ve been told they are stump finders… but I mostly hit rocks with them.

Begs to go outside first thing in the morning, and then goes out and lays down. Not to water the frozen grass (about 12* F here this week).

She is always watching my back… super sweet and cuddly, until she’s not.

 

[pb4ugo]

When I ran U bolt skids I initially snugged the U bolts up the best i could, then was able to use an open end wrench thru the side of the skids to torque them tight.

 

[bikersmurf]

When I ran U bolt skids I initially snugged the U bolts up the best i could, then was able to use an open end wrench thru the side of the skids to torque them tight.

I’m able to get in there with a socket and use a torque wrench. What’s the torque spec on them? I came across 97 ft/lbs, but that seems light.

 

[pb4ugo]

Idk, I've never used a torque wrench when tightening ubolts. I go for tight, then revisit them some miles down the road.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I came across 97 ft/lbs, but that seems light.

Misc Torque Specs - Use at your own risk! (FAQ)

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[bikersmurf]

Idk, I've never used a torque wrench when tightening ubolts. I go for tight, then revisit them some miles down the road.

Misc Torque Specs - Use at your own risk! (FAQ)

forum.ih8mud.com

Well based on the torques thread, 50-70 ft/lbs seems to be the common answer with the exception of one post that states 90 ft/lbs. Which would suggest that the rear springs I had redone by a shop many years ago were over-torqued since the 1/4" braced skid plate is visibly bent... and 140 ft/lb I had done these up to didn't make any visible difference to the skid plates in the front. I don't think I'll worry about loosening them, but I'll reduce the torque spec when I retorque them to 80-90 psi to be safe.

 

[waiting for time]

Why loosen them to be safe?
They break during tightening or they are strong enough.
If bolts break over time it is because they were too loose.
Direct break when the load is applied is overtightening but when they break during use they suffer fatigue which is caused by cycles.
Cycling of bolts happens when the preload of the bolt is lower than the external force applied.

Torque does not equal preload, torque is applying rotational force until the resistance equals the applied force.

Make sure threads are clean and use washers and anti-seize, this will give you a consistent resistance which, sort of, equals the preload.

 

[bikersmurf]

Why loosen them to be safe?
They break during tightening or they are strong enough.
If bolts break over time it is because they were too loose.
Direct break when the load is applied is overtightening but when they break during use they suffer fatigue which is caused by cycles.
Cycling of bolts happens when the preload of the bolt is lower than the external force applied.

Torque does not equal preload, torque is applying rotational force until the resistance equals the applied force.

Make sure threads are clean and use washers and anti-seize, this will give you a consistent resistance which, sort of, equals the preload.

I now realize that my plan was not clear. I have no intention of loosening them. However, when I recheck the torque I’ll set the torque to a lower torque setting. I’ll make sure they haven’t loosened off.

 

[bikersmurf]

Very small step forward... the brake lines are all bent and installed. Once the calipers are in, I'll tighten them all up. For now they're all run and finger tight in case they need to be tweaked or repositioned.

I'm now ready to pull the inner axles out of my original axle, clean and repack the Birfields and install them into the new axle. Then I can install the brake calipers and finish it up.

Just in time... the first snow for the year started to fall last night and it looks like it'll be around for at least a few days.

I didn't take a picture in the dark when I finished up by flashlight. Besides, who wants to see a couple flex lines and neatly bent steel lines anyway...




Don't worry when I'm at the next step I'll share a picture of them...

 

[waiting for time]

I now realize that my plan was not clear. I have no intention of loosening them. However, when I recheck the torque I’ll set the torque to a lower torque setting. I’ll make sure they haven’t loosened off.

That is what I mean, a lower torque setting because of what? Resistance is probably higher therefore the preload will already be lower, why use lower torque when the bolts are obviously strong enough? Your connection will break over time from the lower preload, not from the higher preload.

 

[bikersmurf]

Fluids are in, brakes are bled, 4WD is working, and preliminary test drive is done.

Still need to trim the U-bolts, secure the brake line T to the axle, and paint the installed U-bolts.