Builds My $1500 82 fj60 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Looks nice & great work! You truly brought it back to life, What clutch are you using? Can you expand on the hydraulic throw out bearing?
It’s all factory Chevy parts. The nv4500 came with a hydraulic throw out bearing so I just ordered the parts that would normally be in a 1997 Chevy k3500 from rockauto. Clutch, pressure plate, and hydro TOB. I had to get an adapter fitting for the throw out bearing input that adapts it to a -3an (summit racing) then I have an adapter fitting from -3an to the Toyota brake line (m10x1) then just made a custom hardline using the normal Toyota brake line fittings.
 
It’s all factory Chevy parts. The nv4500 came with a hydraulic throw out bearing so I just ordered the parts that would normally be in a 1997 Chevy k3500 from rockauto. Clutch, pressure plate, and hydro TOB. I had to get an adapter fitting for the throw out bearing input that adapts it to a -3an (summit racing) then I have an adapter fitting from -3an to the Toyota brake line (m10x1) then just made a custom hardline using the normal Toyota brake line fittings.


I wish you were in Austin so I could check out your setup. I have the 5.3L with a newer NV4500. I ordered LUK clutch parts a few years back... I got the truck running (not driveable yet) a couple of months and the clutch rattles like crazy and stops once I depress the clutch
 
I wish you were in Austin so I could check out your setup. I have the 5.3L with a newer NV4500. I ordered LUK clutch parts a few years back... I got the truck running (not driveable yet) a couple of months and the clutch rattles like crazy and stops once I depress the clutch
My 40 does the same thing (1uz with aftermarket hydro TOB). I think it’s just a shim issue....need to add some shims so the bearing is slightly depressing the pressure plate when the peddle is out. I haven’t pulled my tranny yet to verify but I’ll keep you posted when I do.
 
The rust surgery continues. I decided to block off the access port for the body mount nut and switch it to top access. I figured it would be better if the panel isn’t continuously douched with mud and water. I cut everything out, boxed it in with sheet metal and added a strip of 1/8” steel to back side, which will be reinforced with the thicker plate where the body mounts are.

CC0B2DCE-AB15-42A9-BD43-B6A9DEA77820.jpeg


895C1D43-4AA6-4E17-9A8F-DFBBFE19ABBF.jpeg


19F91447-16DA-4176-AF57-1F77B40DC656.jpeg


C613A74B-0276-4BE4-B7D8-BFC3AF1985D5.jpeg


0AF2CE17-B13D-4FB9-9297-334C2ED263BE.jpeg
 
The rust surgery continues. I decided to block off the access port for the body mount nut and switch it to top access. I figured it would be better if the panel isn’t continuously douched with mud and water. I cut everything out, boxed it in with sheet metal and added a strip of 1/8” steel to back side, which will be reinforced with the thicker plate where the body mounts are.

View attachment 2560335

View attachment 2560336

View attachment 2560337

View attachment 2560338

View attachment 2560339

I'm psyching myself up to start working on some bad rust on my tailgate threshold so this is very helpful, thank you for sharing! Looking forward to seeing more of your progress.
 
I'm psyching myself up to start working on some bad rust on my tailgate threshold so this is very helpful, thank you for sharing! Looking forward to seeing more of your progress.
I'm psyching myself up to start working on some bad rust on my tailgate threshold so this is very helpful, thank you for sharing! Looking forward to seeing more of your progress.
Hope it’s better than mine! I didn’t plan on doing so much but once you started cutting it uncovered more and more rust.
 
Welding continued.... got the brackets made and did some more patch work. The body is mounted on the frame again which is cool, now to make the tailgate mount holes and captive nuts, then more metalwork.

E1DD1731-261B-4CED-B9D8-5ABF2305FBFA.jpeg


FA02581F-40DB-46F8-93C5-FAEE7AF87BAC.jpeg


29D7F3BE-3894-4F39-BD1F-979725BEC441.jpeg


3716AE9B-6E8F-446C-887C-8A3256F305A8.jpeg


874A66F5-8613-411F-AF37-F88EFF8545E6.jpeg
 
incredible amount of work there. How long did it take you to do all that? I'm interested in how you decided to go with the rattle trap headliner insulation. Why did you decide to go with it? My concern with most of the peel and stick stuff is that it can fall down when the inside heats up sitting in the summer sun. Have you used it in the past?
Oh how I wish I would have listened to you! Sure enough, the dynamat knockoff started falling abs staining the headliner. Will be ripping it out and maybe replacing with foam.
 
I'd mix up some fiberglass filler and hardener and slap it on these holes.

thin metal welded fj60 painted.jpg


It sets up rock hard but is a lot stronger than poly/bondo stuff. slap it on and before completely hardened you can file excess off with a coarse cheesegrater type rasp like this:

Amazon product ASIN B002DLT2LM
then hit it with the DA 40 then 80 grit then skim coat with lightweight poly z grip or whatever.
 
I've used this stuff :

Amazon product ASIN B0000AYHHN
in the past. Its better for areas that need strength. The downside it that it is much harder to sand smooth than poly resin. that's why you want to shave some off before it completely hardens. Just mix with regular cream hardener like you would normal polyester filler. Really sticking tough stuff to mix ...like someone mixed cat hair with tar. So get some stronger stir sticks.
 
I've used this stuff :

Amazon product ASIN B0000AYHHN
in the past. Its better for areas that need strength. The downside it that it is much harder to sand smooth than poly resin. that's why you want to shave some off before it completely hardens. Just mix with regular cream hardener like you would normal polyester filler. Really sticking tough stuff to mix ...like someone mixed cat hair with tar. So get some stronger stir sticks.
Thanks for the info! For those holes I am going to replace that panel with a new piece so hopefully minimize the Swiss cheese. I will try that stuff when it’s time for filler though, can’t avoid the weak spots with this amount of cancer.
 
Metalwork continued, got some more patches tacked in and finished the pieces for the recessed tailgate mount.

7A4BCE0A-92B0-4B1F-B17A-DF1142C6ACCC.jpeg


7987755C-E3E8-4329-80B0-5DB74B80682F.jpeg


F401F5E5-C51B-44CA-B88B-62E02850C6F4.jpeg


71A03493-0F25-475C-8A99-01E3D14B2CC0.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom