Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (2 Viewers)

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You think about running cable shifters for the case?

Hey Johnny, look at a place called Northwest Fab. I bought some reverse cable shifters and with that you can put the shifters anywhere you want. The cables are about 4 feet long.

I did think about it, but couldn't think of a way to mount the box to the floor of my FJ60. The stock transfer case shifters come out of the side of the transmission tunnel so it's not flat.

How were you going to mount the cable shifter box to the floor?
 
I did think about it, but couldn't think of a way to mount the box to the floor of my FJ60. The stock transfer case shifters come out of the side of the transmission tunnel so it's not flat.

How were you going to mount the cable shifter box to the floor?

I'd build a box that covers the hole where the factory shifters come through and have the hole in that to mount the cable shifter base.

shifters link
 
I did think about it, but couldn't think of a way to mount the box to the floor of my FJ60. The stock transfer case shifters come out of the side of the transmission tunnel so it's not flat.

How were you going to mount the cable shifter box to the floor?
What about mounting it to your new seat box, hummmm?:)
 
I'd build a box that covers the hole where the factory shifters come through and have the hole in that to mount the cable shifter base.

shifters link

Yeah, those were the ones I was looking at. Thinking about it more, I think I'm going to go this route. It's expensive, but it'll work very well.

What about mounting it to your new seat box, hummmm?:)

Part of the reason I decided to go the cable shfiter route is because you gave me an awesome idea, Doc. Why do the t-case shifters have to be on the passenger side of the truck, so far away from the driver? No need for that crap.

I'm going to make a cover for the DS shifter hole and forget about it. Then I'm going to find some space and mount the shifters to the driver's side of the transmission shifter. Makes way more sense that way.

This is why you guys are AWESOME!



On another note, did a 9.5 hour round trip to Charleston, SC and back in Moonshine. Went 70-75 the whole way and got a calculated 20.54 mpg!! She was a bit loud though, considering that 70-75 is about 2100rpm with my current setup. That brings me to the next round of modifications:
- Exhaust. My little dingleberry exhaust has got to go. Ordered a bunch of stuff from http://mandrel-bends.com to make that happen.
- Gearing. I've been doing some thinking and moving down to 3.73s is going to be good for the long run, because I intend to do a TON of highway driving with this truck. Due to the fact that I like to do everything myself, I'm going to teach myself how to regear a 9.5" FZJ80 e-locker diff to 3.73s. Time to chock up for some more tools!
- References:
- http://www.gearinstalls.com/stevef.htm
- http://www.gearinstalls.com/gearinstalltools.htm


- Welding. Finally stopped being stupid and bought myself a Ready-Welder 2 ( 10000-ADP ). Time to get a couple of batteries and start welding!! This factor may lead me to making my own axle housing instead of buying a Diamond, we shall see...
 
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Glad to hear you picked up that ready welder. Hope my response wasn't too delayed.
 
Glad to hear you picked up that ready welder. Hope my response wasn't too delayed.

No way man, thanks for your advice! I can't remember if I replied to your PM yet to thank you, so if I didn't, I'll do so tonight.
 
Johnny,
I re-geared my rear 80 diff to FJ60 3.727's (3.73) and it wasn't too difficult. Just read and re-read Zuk's write ups. I still need to do the front hi-pinion, but I'm in no hurry since I have a part time kit. Also, cruising on the highway at lower RPMs is smoother/quieter. I do have a bad drone at around 2100 RPM that is probably due to my exhaust setup.

So, now that you have some time in the driver's seat, how are the boost levels? What RPM do you get good boost? What is your cruising (70 MPH) boost level? Max? You know why I'm asking :)
 
Johnny,
I re-geared my rear 80 diff to FJ60 3.727's (3.73) and it wasn't too difficult. Just read and re-read Zuk's write ups. I still need to do the front hi-pinion, but I'm in no hurry since I have a part time kit. Also, cruising on the highway at lower RPMs is smoother/quieter. I do have a bad drone at around 2100 RPM that is probably due to my exhaust setup.

I didn't realize you had regeared! Glad to hear it's better, that's what I was hoping for. The alternative was to run even larger tires on the highway, but that's not something I was interested in doing.

So, now that you have some time in the driver's seat, how are the boost levels? What RPM do you get good boost? What is your cruising (70 MPH) boost level? Max? You know why I'm asking :)

:D

My peak boost is still limited by the wastegate. I've been too busy driving this truck to work on it! Every time I think about getting around to adjusting the wastegate, I find an excuse to drive somewhere instead.

That said, my wastegate opens at about 12 psi and I get creep up to about 15. I hit the wastegate at 1800rpm in 3rd and 4th under load, not sure what it's doing in second because the RPMs climb too fast. On the highway, cruising at 70, which is currently 2000-2100rpm, coasting is 0psi, maintaining is 6-7psi and if I press on the throttle at all past maintaining, she hits the wastegate immediately.

A video is really needed to showcase how fast boost is, but I'm not gonna do that until I get around to adjust the wastegate, which will happen when I build myself an exhaust.
 
Sayyyyy whhhhhaaaaaat I don't check up on your thread for a six months and now you have gone and put a diesel in! Good job! I spent the last couple hours going back and forth reading your thread. Looks like you went through some little diesel demons of your own! Awesome, fun to watch you keep doing more to her.
 
Sayyyyy whhhhhaaaaaat I don't check up on your thread for a six months and now you have gone and put a diesel in! Good job! I spent the last couple hours going back and forth reading your thread. Looks like you went through some little diesel demons of your own! Awesome, fun to watch you keep doing more to her.

Yessir, lots changes real fast with Moonshine :grinpimp:

Thanks for watching!
 
Holy crap man, take it easy. Last time I was here, hell I dont even remember where you were (swapping the body maybe....). Couple few changes eh? lol.

Great work, keep it up!

D
 
hell yeah man, that thing sounds sweet. :beer:

Thanks!!!

Holy crap man, take it easy. Last time I was here, hell I dont even remember where you were (swapping the body maybe....). Couple few changes eh? lol.

Great work, keep it up!

D

Yeah man, lots of stuff in the past year :D

Thanks!!
 
Speaking of more changes, my exhaust parts showed up. I elected to order a couple of v-band joints so I could take the exhaust apart in pieces when I need to at some point down the road. Look at the TIG welds on these babies:

IMG_20130411_134618.jpg


IMG_20130411_134632.jpg
 
Sweet pieces. I ordered some stainless v-band gaskets for use on my turbo outlet. I have a small leak there and hope the gasket helps. Should be here tomorrow.
 
Sweet pieces. I ordered some stainless v-band gaskets for use on my turbo outlet. I have a small leak there and hope the gasket helps. Should be here tomorrow.

Sweet!! I didn't think that v-bands needed gaskets. What's it made of and where is it installed, inbetween the flanges or inbetween the clamp and the flanges??

EDIT: Duh Johnny, use Google: http://bit.ly/Zc8OTw

Hopefully they do the trick! Who knows, I may find a leak once I get a real muffler on there, :lol:
 
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They don't usually needs gaskets, but sometimes things get hot and warp. There's a tight 90 degree bend right after the turbo so with heat and vibes, it leaked.
 
Had a bit of a mishap with Moonshine over the past couple of days.

After coming back from travel this past weekend, I realized that Moonshine was no longer charging. Voltmeter read ~9 while driving around. This is obviously a problem. I checked the connections and found that the exciter wire on my alternator had come loose and the nut was missing. :doh: I tightened up the connector with double-nuts and fired her up. She was now charging! Problem solved, right?

Well, drove about 100 yards with the headlights on and all of a sudden, all of my dash lights became extremely bright. The speedo light actually blew out! Pulled over right away and found nothing disconnected, but measured the output of the alternator...~24v!!! That's a huge problem. I immediately yanked the regulator plug, thinking that would stop the alternator from producing volts, but that didn't do anything other than blow the IGN circuit fusible link and shut the motor off. :mad:

After discussing this problem with a bunch of cruiser buddies at ONSC's monthly meeting on Wednesday, we came to the conclusion that the poor exciter connection caused the regulator to fail. Once I got some load going through the regulator, after hooking everything back up, she fried and allowed the alternator to produce 24v. When I disconnected the regulator, instead of "turning off", the alternator produced who knows how many volts and melted my fusible link.

Armed with Spike's thread ( below ), a new regulator and a length of fusible link from AutoZone, I went to work. I pulled my fusible link apart and found that the IGN spade connectors had gotten so hot that the battery side melted into the connector housing. The harness side didn't seem to, but the full damage won't be known until my new one from Toyota comes in on Monday.

Thanks Spike!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/258630-fusible-link-question.html

IMG_20130411_174009.jpg



TL;DR - Loose exciter circuit caused regular blow-out after hooking everything up. Disconnecting the regulator on a running motor caused the fusible link to melt. Moonshine is out of commish until Monday when the new part comes in from Toyota.
 
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seems like would be best just to stop the engine .. but now I know .. :D

I completely agree. Oh well, hindsight is 20/20
 

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