Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (2 Viewers)

[boots4]

Should there be a little nipple on the bottom of the solenoid or should it be flat?
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117738

Your plunger looks like my plunger that works so I think that's fine.

BTW, from the picture on the fuel pin you look a little less than half way between min and max setting. This is how aggressively the IP will fuel when responding to boost. If looking at the pic, the left side would be the min and the right side would be the max. This is one of the adjustments in the future that will increase the smile on your face, to rotate it towards the max side.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Your plunger looks like my plunger that works so I think that's fine.

BTW, from the picture on the fuel pin you look a little less than half way between min and max setting. This is how aggressively the IP will fuel when responding to boost. If looking at the pic, the left side would be the min and the right side would be the max. This is one of the adjustments in the future that will increase the smile on your face, to rotate it towards the max side.

Yes sir, that should be the stock setting. Should be alright with the 3800rpm spring and HX30w, but I picked up this pin to use when this beast is up and running the way I want:
http://www.tndieselpower.com/site/products-page/bosch-replacement-parts/bosch-ve-fuel-pin/

 

[boots4]

Yup, this will be a fun truck.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Would having the full power screw turned too far out cause the truck to not start? How sensitive is it ( 1/4 screw drastic difference, 1/2 screw, full screw, etc )?

 

[Wyoming]

Okay, what do we know?
It ran fine on the stand when you tested it.
You made some minor changes to the IP, but you never messed with the timing and you got everything back together properly.
You replaced the lift pump: It's good...should be.
You get diesel out of the bleeder valve when you prime it. Check that again. If you get diesel imediately, you shouldn't be getting air in the line.
The injedction pump is getting fuel.
The engine stumbles, but does not catch.

I still think you should try cranking the engine and bleeding the injector lines at the injectors. Are you getting fuel there?

Johnny, the thing I remember is it took a boat-load of cranking. the thing that kept me trying was a video of someone starting theirs and a person says something like "Try it one last time before we start checking for problems", or something, then it started. The point is, that little video told me that getting it started might take longer than I initially planned.

Try this: Got a block heater on the thing? Plug it in for at least an hour befor trying to start it. Getting it start with potential air in the injection lines and the engine cold is doubly hard. Warm that ***** up!

It's going to start tonight!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Okay, what do we know?
[STRIKE]It ran fine on the stand when you tested it.[/STRIKE] - Never ran it on a stand
You made some minor changes to the IP, but you never messed with the timing and you got everything back together properly. - true
[STRIKE]You replaced the lift pump: It's good...should be.[/STRIKE] - Have a new lift pump, haven't put it on yet
You get diesel out of the bleeder valve when you prime it. Check that again. If you get diesel imediately, you shouldn't be getting air in the line. - Will do
The injedction pump is getting fuel. - Seems to be
The engine stumbles, but does not catch. - Exactly

I still think you should try cranking the engine and bleeding the injector lines at the injectors. Are you getting fuel there? - Yes sir

Johnny, the thing I remember is it took a boat-load of cranking. the thing that kept me trying was a video of someone starting theirs and a person says something like "Try it one last time before we start checking for problems", or something, then it started. The point is, that little video told me that getting it started might take longer than I initially planned.

Try this: Got a block heater on the thing? Plug it in for at least an hour befor trying to start it. Getting it start with potential air in the injection lines and the engine cold is doubly hard. Warm that ***** up!

It's going to start tonight!

That is a hell of a good point. Starting a cold motor, with air in the fuel system, would be pretty difficult. Maybe heating it up will help

 

[boots4]

Would having the full power screw turned too far out cause the truck to not start? How sensitive is it ( 1/4 screw drastic difference, 1/2 screw, full screw, etc )?

I played a lot with my full power screw when I was trying to clean up those big injectors (now I know I should have been putting more preload on the star wheel) and even though I turned it down low enough that when in gear any throttle input did nothing to engine rpm, the engine would still start. From stock settings, assuming your pump was not played with, a half a turn shouldn't keep it from starting. If it were a couple of turns there may be something to it. I'd be very cautious about turning it up just to get it started. I'd be inclined to think something else is wrong.




You know, I do know there could be starting issues when the throttle arm isn't indexed right and since you were in the top half I wonder if that might be contributing to this.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I played a lot with my full power screw when I was trying to clean up those big injectors (now I know I should have been putting more preload on the star wheel) and even though I turned it down low enough that when in gear any throttle input did nothing to engine rpm, the engine would still start. From stock settings, assuming your pump was not played with, a half a turn shouldn't keep it from starting. If it were a couple of turns there may be something to it. I'd be very cautious about turning it up just to get it started. I'd be inclined to think something else is wrong.




You know, I do know there could be starting issues when the throttle arm isn't indexed right and since you were in the top half I wonder if that might be contributing to this.

Ok, good info.

I did my best to align the throttle arm with the indexing plate, but it's definitely possible I messed something up. Would moving the throttle arm counter-clockwise or clockwise help me most?

Here is where it was before I took the top half off:

 

[davegonz]

I'll ask the dumb question. Did the engine work fine before you installed it?

I remember having to bleed the hell out of the system on my old FJ60 with the 4BT. Sometimes it takes a while to get all the air out. Also, if you did mess with the full power screw, you might want to screw it in a little at a time to see if that helps. I know when I mess with mine, my idle would go up or down depending on what I did to the screw.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I'll ask the dumb question. Did the engine work fine before you installed it?

I remember having to bleed the hell out of the system on my old FJ60 with the 4BT. Sometimes it takes a while to get all the air out. Also, if you did mess with the full power screw, you might want to screw it in a little at a time to see if that helps. I know when I mess with mine, my idle would go up or down depending on what I did to the screw.

Not a dumb question at all. The motor was a runner when I purchased it, but I did not run it in my garage before installing it. I'm now kicking myself for not doing so.

I did mess with the full power screw, as in I uninstalled it and re-installed it in what I thought was the same position. I will try to screw it in a quarter turn to see if that helps.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

If i was not going to Uwharrie this weekend i would stop by and give you a hand this weekend.

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

Would having the full power screw turned too far out cause the truck to not start? How sensitive is it ( 1/4 screw drastic difference, 1/2 screw, full screw, etc )?

The fuel pin if too far out will not allow the motor to run. I would try turning it in some and keep a board handy to cut the air off to the turbo in case it starts up and begins to run away.

 

[Welltech]

Looks like your getting great advice, I'm pulling for you to nail down the problem and get that bad boy running. Good luck.

 

[bluehawk]

Hey Johnny, hope you get this thing running before I come out to pick up that item. I want to see all together and running in person. See you Wednesday.

 

[krzyabncanuck]

The fuel pin if too far out will not allow the motor to run. I would try turning it in some and keep a board handy to cut the air off to the turbo in case it starts up and begins to run away.

Got to agree 100% with a board or something similar. Seen it a few times and not a good feeling.

 

[Wyoming]

I talked to a buddy of mine that put a 6bt into a ramp rod. He said the same thing, that it took a while to get the thing running when he ran his out of fuel. Patience Johnny. Keep us updated.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Wednesday was raining, so Moonshine got some attention last night. While searching for some bags in my garage, I found the following washer in a bag marked 'fuel' but couldn't remember for the life of me where it went. I didn't see it in any of my manuals ( I obviously missed it ). Anyone know where this goes?

Went through the following items:

1. Wired in my block heater and heated until the head of the motor felt warm ( it was 45* or so last night, maybe colder )
2. Turn full power screw all the way into the limiting device - no affect on motor
3. Replace lift pump with brand new unit - seemed to provide a bit more pressure when bleeding injectors, but did not cause motor to start
4. Run lift pump pickup into can of diesel on ground to eliminate air in stock fuel system - no affect
5. Check indexing of throttle shaft on throttle plate - looks to be perfect

After going through all of this we decided to pull the injectors, which was super easy. After loosening the retaining nut, I could simply pick the injectors up out of the injector bores. This concerns me as I previously had to use a tool to remove them.

Questions:
- Is there any kind of sleeve or something that goes between the injector bore in the head and the injectors themselves?
- Do the injectors have to be pressed into place or does the retaining nut seat them down?

I'm going to go have the injectors tested today.

Picture of the throttle arm indexing:

 

[davegonz]

Have you checked the manual shut down lever to see if it's stuck in the off position?

This guy had a similar no-start situation: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/3200-install-no-start-t296889.html

well...found the problem. The lever the fuel screw rides against got bent during re assembly. The screw slide past the lever and was bending it. Bent it back put it back together and fired right up. Drove it around and everything is good.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Have you checked the manual shut down lever to see if it's stuck in the off position?

This guy had a similar no-start situation: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/3200-install-no-start-t296889.html

well...found the problem. The lever the fuel screw rides against got bent during re assembly. The screw slide past the lever and was bending it. Bent it back put it back together and fired right up. Drove it around and everything is good.

Good idea and good reference picture, thanks man!

I have checked the shutdown lever and it is in the run position, as pictured, all the way forward towards the timing gear set.

I can't check the full power lever without taking the top cover off, so I'll wait to do that until the IP is off the truck.

Injectors were just tested and they tested fine. Off to reinstall for one last test of the IP before it's pulled for testing.

 

[EOE_overland]

Gah, you're so close to scaring the crap out of soccer moms driving H2s!!! Soooo close!