Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (4 Viewers)

[drillduty]

Awesome pics looks great

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Wow dude that looks great!

Looking good. Love the pics.

Awesome pics looks great

Thanks guys!

Johnny - What's going to be longer, your front drive shaft or your rear?

That set-up looks bomb-proof. You're getting a lot closer now.

I'm hoping I can set it up so that my front and rear driveshafts are the same length. I'm going to use the shifter location in the transmission to locate everything, so we'll see when it's up in there!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Well guys, the date is set. December 7th the Toyota drivetrain comes out. December 8th, the Cummins drivetrain gets put in. If everything goes how I think it will, then December 9th she moves under her own power again.

Ordered up a bunch of odds and ends from Rock Auto. Did I mention that I love Rock Auto?

Starter solenoid is for this:
http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm

Voltage regulator is for this:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram/303000-diy-external-voltage-regulator-conversion.html

 

[GLTHFJ60]

So you guys installing a drivetrain ever run into this issue? With the load leveler, motor is tilted way to one side. It'll make it a PITA to line up motor mounts unless it's flat. Any suggestions for getting this thing to lift straight? Maybe a strap around the bellhousing instead of the rear lift point?

The whole thing is off the ground in these pictures. Still leans towards the rear, but at least I can get it all off the ground.

 

[Welltech]

Unless the rear lifting lug is the center of balance for the load you are not going to be able to get it to level positon with the two lift points you are rigged up to. You may need to use a nylon sling to find the center of the load. Good luck.

 

[davegonz]

Damn, that looks heavy as hell.

 

[Wyoming]

I used a forklift with the forks both moved to the center and then I used a long chain wrapped around the forks. The hooks of the chain each hung of different sides of the forks and that compensated for the fact that the lift points on the motor were (Facing the motor) left on the front and right on the back. I used the tilt on the forklift to compensate for foreward tilt.

But, my Transmission was already in the rig, so I needed a flat, straight engine for install. If you are putting your engine, tranny and transfer all in at the same time, you would not have to worry as much about level.

Start it in, one guy underneath to guide it. Lower it (Glacial slow) until the first motor mount lines up and stops that side from going any further down. Lower the other side into place. Jack the tranny and transfer into place and secure with the crossmember.

If you are not installing the engine and tranny together, your load leveler should work just fine once you remove the tranny from the engine..

 

[Wyoming]

do you have a picture of the top of the load leveler?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Unless the rear lifting lug is the center of balance for the load you are not going to be able to get it to level positon with the two lift points you are rigged up to. You may need to use a nylon sling to find the center of the load. Good luck.

I thought about doing that, but the slave cylinder studs are right where the sling would go.

Damn, that looks heavy as hell.

Understatement. Motor dressed should be ~750lbs, transmission is ~200, transfercase is ~75, flywheel is ~50. It's heavy.

I used a forklift with the forks both moved to the center and then I used a long chain wrapped around the forks. The hooks of the chain each hung of different sides of the forks and that compensated for the fact that the lift points on the motor were (Facing the motor) left on the front and right on the back. I used the tilt on the forklift to compensate for foreward tilt.

But, my Transmission was already in the rig, so I needed a flat, straight engine for install. If you are putting your engine, tranny and transfer all in at the same time, you would not have to worry as much about level.

Start it in, one guy underneath to guide it. Lower it (Glacial slow) until the first motor mount lines up and stops that side from going any further down. Lower the other side into place. Jack the tranny and transfer into place and secure with the crossmember.

If you are not installing the engine and tranny together, your load leveler should work just fine once you remove the tranny from the engine..

I intend to install the motor, tranny and transfer just as it sits on the floor. I'm using the transmission shifter location to locate the motor in the frame, and the t-case needs to be installed so I can ensure proper clearance.

do you have a picture of the top of the load leveler?

No pic of the very top. You can see however that the adjuster is at its rearmost limit. The more I moved the leveler back, the more it tilted.


I think I'm going to just deal with the tilt and use floor jacks to level the whole thing once it's in the truck.

 

[Wyoming]

Personally, I would detach the tranny and transfer and locate them. That is a lot of very un-coopertive weight you will be working with for the initial location if a 750 lb engine is attached. You don't need the motor attached if the shifter location is going to determine everything. Then, install the motor.

I think you should be able to measure your tranny shifter position, front to back, and your tranny mounting position, front to back and nail it. Are you building a custom crossmember? I think you have to. The stock crossmember is built with tilt to one side that you won't have anymore.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Personally, I would detach the tranny and transfer and locate them. That is a lot of very un-coopertive weight you will be working with for the initial location if a 750 lb engine is attached. You don't need the motor attached if the shifter location is going to determine everything. Then, install the motor.

I think you should be able to measure your tranny shifter position, front to back, and your tranny mounting position, front to back and nail it. Are you building a custom crossmember? I think you have to. The stock crossmember is built with tilt to one side that you won't have anymore.

I found that installing my H55 was a huge PITA to do underneath the truck, so I'm trying to avoid that if at all possible. I'll have a couple of extra hands to handle the weight, so it should be OK.

Yes, building a custom cross member out of 1.5"x1.5" .250 wall square tube. Should be stout enough

 

[krzyabncanuck]

Johnny, Looks good man. I would say have everyone that is coming over that has a jack like yours to bring it to help. Along with some 4x4 pieces of wood in different lenghts to help stabilize from the bottom as i think that is going to be the best way for you to do it where you will be. And some good jack stands along with some rachet straps. Just trying to think out loud here how you could get it solidly in there for the welding of the mounts one time only.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Johnny, Looks good man. I would say have everyone that is coming over that has a jack like yours to bring it to help. Along with some 4x4 pieces of wood in different lenghts to help stabilize from the bottom as i think that is going to be the best way for you to do it where you will be. And some good jack stands along with some rachet straps. Just trying to think out loud here how you could get it solidly in there for the welding of the mounts one time only.

Good ideas! I've got a couple of ratchet straps as well as some 4x4s. I'll have to grab a couple of more at the store.

Hopefully, we can get it in one go!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Picked up some motor mounts and new fasteners for the 4BT. Put the PS mount on and test fitted the turbo oil drain and found that due to the longer exhaust housing of the HX30, the stock drain didn't line up:

Nothing a little grinding action won't fix:

Alignment is still off a hair, but I don't think it'll matter:

Shot of the DS mount ( longer for starter clearance:

 

[Wyoming]

Picked up some motor mounts and new fasteners for the 4BT. Put the PS mount on and test fitted the turbo oil drain and found that due to the longer exhaust housing of the HX30, the stock drain didn't line up:

Interesting. I thought about using those holes for the engine mounts at one point. They certainly look strong enough.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Interesting. I thought about using those holes for the engine mounts at one point. They certainly look strong enough.

4x M12 bolts torqued to ~75 ft/lbs better be damn strong enough!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Belt just came in and surprise, it doesn't fit. Stock 6BT 81 5/8" belt is about 1" shy of fitting. Anyone else run into this problem with the 6BT alt / AC setup on a 4BT?

This one may work but it's only 6 ribs:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2885037&cc=1251986\

EDIT:
Just found this SWEET reference from Goodyear. Makes it real easy:
http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=3128

EDIT AGAIN:
Goodyear p/n Metric PN Ribs Effective Outside Length
4080830 8PK2110 8 83 83.75

Cross references to AutoZone part:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...eyWord=4080830&fromString=search&fromType=oem

I'm gonna go pick up this belt tomorrow and see if it fits.

Belt routing:

 

[GLTHFJ60]

After a ton of grinding, all of the 80 link brackets are gone and the axle is smooth. Getting more and more ready for next weekend

 

[EOE_overland]

Nice! Looks great! Keep meaning to ask what happened to the FF? I haven't followed as close as I should have...or will in the future

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Nice! Looks great! Keep meaning to ask what happened to the FF? I haven't followed as close as I should have...or will in the future

Which one, the 60 FF or this 80 FF?

I'm moving to this 80 FF because it's closer to centered than the 60 FF axle and will help with my centered rear output transfer case. The 60 FF rear axle will be sold.

You interested?