Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (11 Viewers)

[Kurtis]

I don't want to sound negative because honestly for a toy if you had wads of cash to blow a 6bt cruiser would be awesome to have and let sit in your garage put on headphones and drive around once and a while. But a daily driver it would be a lot of engine for a little vehicle.

If you want something that is going to save you gas I hate to say it but as sick as a 2500 4x4 cummins is really doesn't fit the bill. For a big truck they do get good mileage but unless your doing 55-60 on the highway unloaded in a 2wd single cab long bed on flat ground with a tail wind your not going to see 20+ mpg. Heres what i've seen in the 3 big diesel trucks in 4x4. Ford average 13-14 50 50. best 15-16 unloaded highway, duramax 12-13 mixed 50 50 straight highway no load 17. Cummins 13.5 50/50 17 highway.

The other thing is as "bulletproof" as these trucks are that's a relative term. There bulletproof if 3-4k for repairs is no big deal. Maintenance costs on them are much higher. Transmissions on the newer ones are 5 grand. The nv4500 is obviously pretty beefy but you still have a clutch. To do the injecton pump and injectors its about as much as a cruiser.

I considered doing a diesel before I did the v8. As cool and efficient diesel is the cost just never was worth it for me. The v8 gets me 16-17 on the highway with 35s but I don't daily drive the 60 anymore anyway so its not a huge concern either way. If a 4bt only gets 22-24 the 6bt is defiantly going to get less than 20. Its kind of a slippery slope. A 60 with a 6bt you probably couldn't stand to daily drive anyway. Its so much engine for such a little platform it would probably shake you to death.

If it were me I would pick one toy. The 4x4 truck or the cruiser and buy a civic or a jetta tdi If you want to save gas. The tdi will get you 40-50 on the highway 40 in town and you won't loose hardly any money on depreciation if you buy a few years old.

To put the gas in perspective my wife and I both drive about 300miles a week. I drive a 06 2500hd gas and she drives a civic. I spend about 250-275 a month where she spends 90-100 a month for the same driving. My friend has the identical truck as mine only diesel and he gets 14-15 doing similar driving as I get 13-13.5 It still costs less for me due to drive due to the price of diesel and the added maintenance costs. I also paid half as much for my truck so I didn't have to have payments. Don't get me wrong if I needed to tow more than 10,500lbs I 'd have the diesel but I don't yet so It didn't work for me.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Drew and Kurtis, you all have great points. Zach, you do too but I still don't have a shop or somewhere to store the trailer Matt, thanks for the offer. I may take you up on that some point in the future...

My mileage numbers are probably on the optimistic side. Every day I drive moonshine I am reminded of how much I love her. So much character, so many good memories... I couldn't get rid of her.

I am going to see if I can find a fuel efficient DD to my small fleet. I will sell my M416 to finance said DD so if anyone is looking for one, let me know!

 

[DustyFJ]

I get 40ish mph on my yamaha. You could commute spring summer fall on a bike drive the cruiser in the snow/rain?

My brother commuted on his bike for a couple years. I tried it but my commute is too far and its hard to drink coffee on the bike.

 

[Kurtis]

The nice thing about a civic/jetta/focus whatever you find the best deal on is the cost of ownership is almost nothing. Tires for my truck are 600-700 tires for the car are 320. Parts in general cost quite a bit less. Registration is quite a bit less.

The other thing for me is even when all 3 cars are sitting at home If my wife isn't using her car I'll take it just because it uses so much less fuel I feel like I'm being wasteful driving anything else.

 

[CaliCruiser]

CaliCruiser has done a bunch of tough trails(Rubicon, Dusy Ershim) with us locked in the rear only, and I don't think he's broken a birf yet! He did break a rear axle on the Rubicon last year.

Throwing in two cents late here but I agree with Andy for sure. Put the locker in the back! I have done some pretty tough stuff on just 35's without breaking a birfield and the rear SF was a stocker that have now been upgraded to Poly's.

I share the same college broke budget deal but my philosophy since the begining was to build (and continue building) as time goes on. I first did the SOA and kept it open/open with stock shafts front/rear. First thing I broke was a steering knuckle on Fordyce Creek. . . upgraded those. Then I broke a rear axle on Rubicon. . . upgraded those. You get it. As the trails get harder you have to find a way work with what you have, put the locker where the new tougher axles are and wait to lock up the front. I would love to have alloys up front with an ARB but I'm still waiting on the time or that perfect deal to pop and wait to do that.

Looking good!!

Dylan

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Paul, I definitely want a motorcycle. I was thinking about getting a dualsport to commute on / offroad sometimes with but a good portion of my family is in the medical field and are all therefore against motorcycles in general.

Dylan, that's been my mentality thus far. Calculating which parts I will want to buy and waiting until I find the right deal ( or necessity dictating what I have to do ). That's how my FF happened, how the SOA happened, etc. I think that's the only way to do it! As for putting the locker in the back, I will, but not until I can afford a full front rebuild kit. The inner axle seals need to be replaced after the last birfield explosion and I couldn't do it due to a lack of funds. That will likely happen after CMCC.


Going back to the diesel problem, I consider more than the eventual cost of the conversion when thinking about it. I am a proponent of both becoming carbon neutral as well as energy independent. I would like to be able to produce all of the energy I use by myself, through biodiesel, photo-voltaic panels and geothermal power. I love the lower powerband of the diesel as well as better longevity. In terms of emissions, combusting biodiesel, or wvo, puts less particulate matter, less Co2 and less nitrates than combusting a comparable fossil fuel. It is my goal to run all of my vehicles on biodiesel, when I have the $$.

Back to cruisers!!


The slip joint on my rear driveshaft has worn out again. I'm not sure if I have bad pinion angles or just bad luck in picking up CV driveshafts, but I have to have another rear driveshaft built. This time it'll be with a long spline slip yolk that will hopefully make it last longer. We shall see!!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Big changes coming up. Went to CMCC again this year and have yet to find a job. I am in the process of selling my M416 as well as my front bumper ( FS Thread Here ) to drum up some money and to redesign my suspension. I broke my driver's side front main leaf, on some trail, right at the shackle. Instead of replacing just that spring, I'll be relocating my hangers to put my rear springs up front, likely with a shackle reversal to keep the spring farther away from boulders, with chevy 63" springs out back. I'll likely use the Sky kit or some parts from Bud Built to do the conversion out back. Any input?

Here are some pics. The white Tacoma and black 4Runner have INSANE flex and both have roughly the same suspension setup I want to install.

Nick watching his truck drive itself, Damn I need a Toybox

Here is the broken spring.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Johnny-

Broken main leafs are very common. Your new suspension sounds nice, but I would do it in pieces.

First-get a new(used) stock FJ60 spring and install. That keeps your truck drivable/movable/useful. Should be cheap. I have a main leaf I'll send you if you want to go that route. Then you can just re-assemble a spring pack with your other leaves. Shouldn't be too much to ship that way.

Then find some nice 63s and install those. I used the Ruffstuff kit, but you could just order the parts-hangers, shackle hangers and shackles. I used the boxed in spring hangers, which while stupid strong are overkill and add to the expense. Leave the overload in place in the spring pack. Ignore mini-truck guys who say different.

Then, and only then, would I consider swapping the rear springs to the front. And even then, the benefit is debatable. Keep things simple and close to stock if you want to keep the expenses down.

Benefits of the shackle reversal are also debatable. I have 1 SOA each way and the long slip drive shaft needed will be a significant expense you can do without. Both ways work fine.


Incidentally- do you have bump stops to keep your front leafs from going negative? I can't tell in the pics.

Good luck!

 

[cruiser88]

I can testify.............he is hard on his junk


that rainbow colored 4 skin looks damn familer..................humm

 

[mwalls54]

You know i went back thru my pictures and your spring was already broke friday morning before we hit any of the trails. Where are the pics of the trailer??? Im interested in it.

 

[Kurtis]

I'd probably focus on getting a job first..... Spend every second you have applying following up working on your resume researching to find more places to apply... then you'll have plenty of money for everything else.

or.... spend your time looking for a rich chick.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

or.... spend your time looking for a rich chick.

This is the advice I give my son. That marrying for love thing is over-rated.


Anyway, the front main leaf is available and free if you want it.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Johnny-

Broken main leafs are very common. Your new suspension sounds nice, but I would do it in pieces.

First-get a new(used) stock FJ60 spring and install. That keeps your truck drivable/movable/useful. Should be cheap. I have a main leaf I'll send you if you want to go that route. Then you can just re-assemble a spring pack with your other leaves. Shouldn't be too much to ship that way.

Then find some nice 63s and install those. I used the Ruffstuff kit, but you could just order the parts-hangers, shackle hangers and shackles. I used the boxed in spring hangers, which while stupid strong are overkill and add to the expense. Leave the overload in place in the spring pack. Ignore mini-truck guys who say different.

Then, and only then, would I consider swapping the rear springs to the front. And even then, the benefit is debatable. Keep things simple and close to stock if you want to keep the expenses down.

Benefits of the shackle reversal are also debatable. I have 1 SOA each way and the long slip drive shaft needed will be a significant expense you can do without. Both ways work fine.


Incidentally- do you have bump stops to keep your front leafs from going negative? I can't tell in the pics.

Good luck!

My initial thinking with going this route is that it would cost just as much to buy a set of 60 front springs as it would to buy a set of 63" springs. Going by that logic, throw a couple more bucks at it and I'll have a newly working truck with longer springs front and rear. Either way, seems that I was wrong in that initial assumption so I may be able to source a set of 60 front springs really easy, either from you or from a friend in Rochester. Either way, thanks for the offer!! I really have to meet you Drew because you always give the best advice. I've got to pay you back with a beer or two! Maybe the Rubithon next year


Back to tech: no bump stops. That will go onto my list of things to do to prevent this from happening again. Is that likely why my spring broke, that it was able to travel past its working limit and split? Makes sense to me, maybe instead of swapping out the springs for longer ones I'll replace the broken one with another 60 leaf, grind off my sway bar and old shocks to get some real travel out of this front end. Definitely not at full flex for this setup just yet. That would make the most sense.

I can testify.............he is hard on his junk


that rainbow colored 4 skin looks damn familer..................humm

Wheeling with you was awesome. Which event are you going to next, fall crawl?

You know i went back thru my pictures and your spring was already broke friday morning before we hit any of the trails. Where are the pics of the trailer??? Im interested in it.

And the plot thickens... Got any good pictures you care to share?

Incoming PM about the trailer.

I'd probably focus on getting a job first..... Spend every second you have applying following up working on your resume researching to find more places to apply... then you'll have plenty of money for everything else.

or.... spend your time looking for a rich chick.

I have a day to day job installing landscapes. Pays really well but the hours have not been consistent up until now. That said, there are more and more jobs popping up so it should be more consistent from here on out.


Thanks for reading and thanks for all the advice!! I probably wouldn't have a functional 60 by now if it wasn't for you guys.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I suspect the lack of bump stops didn't help. I have mine bumped at just where they go flat but not negative. I also have a front spring attached to my bullbar in case I break one. We had to swap a main leaf onto a 40 at Rubicon. The 60 main leaf was too long, but it worked just fine as a trail fix. Anyway, it's a good spare to have.

I hope you do make it out to Rubithon next year. It would be a great experience and a good test for your truck. Or just fly out, ride with someone and check it out before you spend the $2500 in fuel.

Just let me know if you want that main leaf on the way.

 

[cruiser88]

yep.............fall crawl



















good gawd I got drunk sat night

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I suspect the lack of bump stops didn't help. I have mine bumped at just where they go flat but not negative. I also have a front spring attached to my bullbar in case I break one. We had to swap a main leaf onto a 40 at Rubicon. The 60 main leaf was too long, but it worked just fine as a trail fix. Anyway, it's a good spare to have.

I hope you do make it out to Rubithon next year. It would be a great experience and a good test for your truck. Or just fly out, ride with someone and check it out before you spend the $2500 in fuel.

Just let me know if you want that main leaf on the way.

Actually. I heard about that story. Eli from Camel 4x4 was inyour group and told me that when I was explaining that mine broke. A main leaf is never one of those things I thought of carrying until now. I'll let you know in the next couple of days if I'd like that leaf, thanks again

yep.............fall crawl

good gawd I got drunk sat night

Glad you enjoyed that vodka. Next time I'll enjoy it with you instead of driving until 3:30 in the morning

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Actually. I heard about that story. Eli from Camel 4x4 was inyour group and told me that when I was explaining that mine broke. A main leaf is never one of those things I thought of carrying until now. I'll let you know in the next couple of days if I'd like that leaf, thanks again
:

Eli was a good guy to have along at Rubithon. Cool to have someone from New Jersey out in the rocks of the Sierras. His Iron Man products are nice and look like some real competition for ARB.

That trail fix was weirdly good. It turned out the truck that broke the leaf was running really long shackles in the back. So to use the 60 leaf up front, we had to pull the rear shackle and put it up front. Then the front shackle in the back. At slow trail speeds it worked great and we still got in to camp at Buck Island way before dark.

Anyway, the 60 main leaf and the really long shackle saved the day.

On my FJ40, I carried front and rear main leafs on the bumper for years. It's a really great spare since there really is not a work around, and the main leaf is not that heavy. Now if you never get more than 30 minutes from a base camp it's no big deal, but if you go into the backcountry with no spares, you're asking for it!

Back to the usual programming....

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Eli told me that story and was amazed about the fact that you had those parts as spares. I think I'm going to pick up the pair from my friend in Rochester and keep the spare main leaf stored on my bumper in case this happens again. I want to start some real overland travel with my rig so I need to be prepared for scenarios like this.

I'll keep you posted on what I end up doing.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Here is the game plan:
Replace the front springs with a set of stock 60 leafs a friend of mine gave me. ( DONE )
Remove sway bar because it's limiting flex. ( DONE )
Weld on some ring gear protection. ( DONE )
Paint axle. ( DONE )
Install PS cooler . ( DONE )
Install 14" long 5125's
Rebuild front axle with ARP's and Marlin inner seals
Rebuild rear axle with ARP's and the autolocked diff

Rebuilding the axles will happen this week when the parts show up. Putting the new shocks in will happen when I have the dough to buy them. Completed all of the "DONE" work this past weekend with my buddy Nick up in Rochester. We had a full automotive shop at our disposal and the lift made quick work of taking out the axle. God damn I need a lift. Also installed a PS cooler in the form of an 80 series AT cooler. In trying to screw the cooler to the core support, I put a hole in my AC condenser. Guess I'm going to sell my York and CO2 setups and make my AC compressor an air compressor. Here are a couple pics. Enjoy!

 

[TLC Norway]

DONE, is really satisfying, right?!?
Now i wanna do some of that! But what's the ARP's? something i've missed? clearly...

Good job on the ring protection... added to my list... and protection for the driveshaft on the pinion. and...and..and...