Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[klinetime574]

Jonny-Why not put that locker in the rear and leave the front open? That will be way easier on your birfs, and you have the stronger axles in the rear to hopefully deal with the shock loading of that type of locker.

3 Birfs in a weekend is a message you shouldn't ignore unless you just like changing birfields on trail runs.

And unlike Tojo, I think the rust is fine. There is too much to fix now. One day, you'll get a new truck and can just swap over the good parts.

x2 on putting the locker is the rear. If I ever get a locker its gonna go in the back and thats it. I don't want anything screwing up the turning and the front is already complicated enough haha

I always wonder why this site wasn't named IH8RUST.

Nice pictures!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Great pics, love the carnage ones as well . Only wish I had the dough to get stronger gear for Tojo.
Moonshine's looking great, fix that rust!
-Carl

Thanks man! I don't have the dough, but I need a vehicle. This is the disadvantage to using your wheeling truck as a DD

Jonny-Why not put that locker in the rear and leave the front open? That will be way easier on your birfs, and you have the stronger axles in the rear to hopefully deal with the shock loading of that type of locker.

3 Birfs in a weekend is a message you shouldn't ignore unless you just like changing birfields on trail runs.

And unlike Tojo, I think the rust is fine. There is too much to fix now. One day, you'll get a new truck and can just swap over the good parts.

I thought of that and the problem is the pinion seal is leaking on my front diff. It needs to be rebuilt and I'm not sure I trust it to be used 100% of the time due to the leak. What I want to do is put an Aussie in the rear so I'm locked at both ends. As for the birfs, I'm going to wheel lighter until I can afford to upgrade further and in the meantime, the ones I've got in there now are heat treated. The should last a longer than the past 3.

I really like having the locker in the front and although it would be easier on my drivetrain in the rear, if it was back there I would be more worried about the hub studs than anything else at that point. If the hub studs fail, I would be super screwed. ARP studs will go into that axle before a locker.

I've got the same thought about the rust on my rig. I'm finding more and more holes in my body so I'm looking at getting a rolling chassis for me to throw my drivetrain into. I may have one lined up for the tail end of this summer but I've gotta get a job or two first so I can pay for it

x2 on putting the locker is the rear. If I ever get a locker its gonna go in the back and thats it. I don't want anything screwing up the turning and the front is already complicated enough haha

I always wonder why this site wasn't named IH8RUST.

Nice pictures!

Thank you! I really like the locker in the front and the saginaw PS pump helps a ton.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I thought of that and the problem is the pinion seal is leaking on my front diff. It needs to be rebuilt and I'm not sure I trust it to be used 100% of the time due to the leak. What I want to do is put an Aussie in the rear so I'm locked at both ends. As for the birfs, I'm going to wheel lighter until I can afford to upgrade further and in the meantime, the ones I've got in there now are heat treated. The should last a longer than the past 3.

I really like having the locker in the front and although it would be easier on my drivetrain in the rear, if it was back there I would be more worried about the hub studs than anything else at that point. If the hub studs fail, I would be super screwed. ARP studs will go into that axle before a locker.

.

I hear you and understand the young and broke thing all too well. You've done a good job with this truck. Limited resources and a Land Cruiser habit are hard to reconcile.

I still think your single locker should be in the rear. Those hub studs if tight will likely do fine and even if they break, are less immobilizing than a broken birf (which can make it impossible to steer). Save the $$$$ for a front ARB. BTW--All birfs are heat treated, I doubt that's going to fix your problem. Ratcheting lockers cause shock loads which causes breakage-kind of unavoidable with hard use.

The leaking pinion seal is a $15 fix as you know.

CaliCruiser has done a bunch of tough trails(Rubicon, Dusy Ershim) with us locked in the rear only, and I don't think he's broken a birf yet! He did break a rear axle on the Rubicon last year.

 

[IrollwithTojo]

My "wheeler" is my DD also....but my "wheeling" aint chit compared to that stuff.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I hear you and understand the young and broke thing all too well. You've done a good job with this truck. Limited resources and a Land Cruiser habit are hard to reconcile.

I still think your single locker should be in the rear. Those hub studs if tight will likely do fine and even if they break, are less immobilizing than a broken birf (which can make it impossible to steer). Save the $$$$ for a front ARB. BTW--All birfs are heat treated, I doubt that's going to fix your problem. Ratcheting lockers cause shock loads which causes breakage-kind of unavoidable with hard use.

The leaking pinion seal is a $15 fix as you know.

CaliCruiser has done a bunch of tough trails(Rubicon, Dusy Ershim) with us locked in the rear only, and I don't think he's broken a birf yet! He did break a rear axle on the Rubicon last year.

That compliment means a lot! The only thing I'd say differently is by saying that an empty bank account and a Land Cruiser addiction are hard to reconcile

In terms of the pinion seal, the stock 62 diffs come with a crush spacer instead of a solid spacer, so if the pinion seal goes, you need to rebuild the diff so you can properly reset the pinion preload with a new crush spacer, correct? I didn't think you could safely swap out pinion seals on a diff with a crush spacer...

If I can swap the pinion seal out without much concern, then I may swap it to the rear. I've done my front axle two complete times in the past two weeks, so at least the procedure is fresh in my mind!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

In terms of the pinion seal, the stock 62 diffs come with a crush spacer instead of a solid spacer, so if the pinion seal goes, you need to rebuild the diff so you can properly reset the pinion preload with a new crush spacer, correct? I didn't think you could safely swap out pinion seals on a diff with a crush spacer...

If I can swap the pinion seal out without much concern, then I may swap it to the rear. I've done my front axle two complete times in the past two weeks, so at least the procedure is fresh in my mind!

I guess it depends why the seal leaks. If it's just an old seal that leaks you can replace it. If it leaks because the pinion bearing under it is shot(common problem in the rear), then you need a rebuild.

Even the FSM shows the procedure for replacing the seal. Measure the pre-load before, the replace the seal and tighten down the nut after wards to achieve the same preload. You are right, though, a full diff rebuild is spendy.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I guess it depends why the seal leaks. If it's just an old seal that leaks you can replace it. If it leaks because the pinion bearing under it is shot(common problem in the rear), then you need a rebuild.

Even the FSM shows the procedure for replacing the seal. Measure the pre-load before, the replace the seal and tighten down the nut after wards to achieve the same preload. You are right, though, a full diff rebuild is spendy.

Next time I'm in the front axle I'll check to see if there is any play in the pinion. If not then I'll swap out the seal and put it in the rear. Definitely a good call, thanks!

 

[alaska60]

The trials and tribulations of the young cruiser warrior......Have no fear my young mudder.....you shall gain financial freedoms and do crazy builds on your hobby cruisers one day .....yes I said cruisers with a capital S.

Funny thing is...I have other cars, but I choose my 60 everyday!!! My DD always.
Hows that flex pipe holdin up?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The trials and tribulations of the young cruiser warrior......Have no fear my young mudder.....you shall gain financial freedoms and do crazy builds on your hobby cruisers one day .....yes I said cruisers with a capital S.

Funny thing is...I have other cars, but I choose my 60 everyday!!! My DD always.
Hows that flex pipe holdin up?

That's what I'm thinking!! I think the first house I buy is going to be a large garage with a small apartment attached

The flexi pipe is holding up well! I squished it on a boulder but everything is a-ok.

 

[clamor]

RE: longs

I always followed 4rnrick's (sp?) builds on pirate & he suggested that the 27 spline longs might be stronger than the 30 due to the 27 splines not requiring a neck down & the 30s requiring a neck down or something like that.

Just something to consider (& discuss). Either way, I believe they have lifetime no questions asked warranty. But, IMO the best warranty is one you never need to use.

Just hearsay, but 4rnrick did a ton of research. His threads are awesome (wish he'da finished his sammy build).

 

[2020 Rocks]

Hi GLTH
I am in the same boat regarding my frame. I had some questions about your repair.
When you cut away the rot did you support the frame in any specific way? I am concerned that once I cut the rot away that the frame may fold up. Mine has not collapsed but has rusted through on the inner part of the frame and on the passenger side it has rusted through a small whole just to the left of the spring perch in the first photo below.
What size welding rod did you use? I assume you used an arc welder.

I have a couple of things going for me:
I have access to a cutting torch and a lincoln arc welder, don't think my 110 mig would be sufficient for a safe weld.

Any advice you or others can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Another thought I had, and I may just start a thread regarding the repair, but would it be possible to french in the spring hanger and still use the stock fj60 springs? If so, would I need an extended shaclle in the rear to make up for the loss of height, I don't want the rear to sit lower than the front. Or, would it require doing a SOA on the rear to make up from the loss of height due to putting the spring perch inside the frame?

First step, neglect your frame until it collapses on itself.

Next, cut off the spring hanger and a large, rotten section of the frame. Remove all mud.

Weld in an internal support ( angle iron ) after you realize that the other side has rusted through as well

Weld on the outer plate and finally the spring hanger.

And you're done! It's solid, for sure, but the frame needs to be replaced. That will be Moonshine's next big project.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Hi GLTH
I am in the same boat regarding my frame. I had some questions about your repair.
When you cut away the rot did you support the frame in any specific way? I am concerned that once I cut the rot away that the frame may fold up. Mine has not collapsed but has rusted through on the inner part of the frame and on the passenger side it has rusted through a small whole just to the left of the spring perch in the first photo below.
What size welding rod did you use? I assume you used an arc welder.

I have a couple of things going for me:
I have access to a cutting torch and a lincoln arc welder, don't think my 110 mig would be sufficient for a safe weld.

Any advice you or others can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Another thought I had, and I may just start a thread regarding the repair, but would it be possible to french in the spring hanger and still use the stock fj60 springs? If so, would I need an extended shaclle in the rear to make up for the loss of height, I don't want the rear to sit lower than the front. Or, would it require doing a SOA on the rear to make up from the loss of height due to putting the spring perch inside the frame?

I did not support the frame other than with a jackstand under the frame at the rear bumper. You should be fine with that, but to be safe you could put another jackstand towards the front of the truck from the hanger.

I used a 220V arc welder with a 7016 rod? Whichever rod is recommended for less prepared surfaces. I burned about 20 of them in, probably overkill and sloppy, but it's still solid today. 110V welders would not be sufficient I don't think.

You could definitely french the hanger into the frame. To figure out how much height you'll loose, I'd imagine that you take the height difference between the stock hanger and the frenched hanger, and divide that number in two, similar to a shackle lift. For example, if you french the hanger 3 inches into the frame, you'll loose 1.5 inches of lift. That's the best I can think of. Disadvantage to that is you'll have to do it to both sides, but both sides on my frame have fallen apart, so maybe you can consider it preventative maintainence

Good luck!!

 

[Kurtis]

Depending on what 110 mig you have The 110s with flux core will weld thicker steel than a cruiser frame. my Lincoln does 1/4 inch with flux core. I suck with an arc welder and don't have a big desire to weld anything thicker than 1/4 so I use that 3200 for everything.

 

[2020 Rocks]

Thanks Glth and Kurtis for your replies.

I have a blue s*** box 110v Harbor Freight welder. So far I've used it to do a 1/4 panel chop on the drivers side and will be moving on to the passenger side to chop that side this weekend. It has been fine so far for the sheet metal work I have done but I will probably have a friend come by with his 220 Lincoln Arc and give me a had with the frame. I would hate to weld it with mine and be sorry later on down the road. The frenched idea was what I came up with to try and kill two birds with one stone. Now I just need to make up my mind as to whether I shoud use stock rear 60 springs, or spring over the rear using 63inch chevy packs. I will probably start a new thread this weekend so as not to clutter this one up. Thanks.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I need some advice from the 60 gurus here on the forum. I think I'm coming to a couple of realizations with my truck. First is that I really want a diesel and I can't get one into my 60 for what I've got to work with. In addition to this burning desire to own a diesel I am realizing more and more that this truck is a basket case, in terms of rust. The wheel wells have rusted completely through where the rear seat hinges are and there are some baseball size holes right behind the middle body mounts in front of the wheel wells. There is not much that this body / frame can handle anymore aside from rubbing against trees.

I am considering parting this truck so I can buy a 6BT+NV4500+NP205 3/4 ton Ram with D60+D80 axles. I would sell the transmission / transfer case and possibly my axles, my M416 along with a bunch of the little things I've accumulated to pay for the Ram. I would then be able to drive and maintain the drivetrain that I want to swap into a 60 later down the road. I would pick up a 60 rolling chassis put the 'ton axles and diesel drivetrain into.

Does that sound logical? Is it crazy? I am soul searching a bit here and would like to see other people's
perspectives.

Advantages to cummins ( would be passed on to cruiser farther down the road )
Fuel efficiency ( big deal when commuting to work )
Possibility to run WVO ( very motivated to start this )
Versatility of a pickup for moving ( possibly cross country ) after graduating for college next may

Advantages to cruiser:
Wheeling ( after recent breakages, I'm starting to realize that I don't have a budget to fix / upgrade as I want + need to )
character
SUV - I can sleep inside!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I need some advice from the 60 gurus here on the forum. I think I'm coming to a couple of realizations with my truck. First is that I really want a diesel and I can't get one into my 60 for what I've got to work with. In addition to this burning desire to own a diesel I am realizing more and more that this truck is a basket case, in terms of rust. The wheel wells have rusted completely through where the rear seat hinges are and there are some baseball size holes right behind the middle body mounts in front of the wheel wells. There is not much that this body / frame can handle anymore aside from rubbing against trees.

I am considering parting this truck so I can buy a 6BT+NV4500+NP205 3/4 ton Ram with D60+D80 axles. I would sell the transmission / transfer case and possibly my axles, my M416 along with a bunch of the little things I've accumulated to pay for the Ram. I would then be able to drive and maintain the drivetrain that I want to swap into a 60 later down the road. I would pick up a 60 rolling chassis put the 'ton axles and diesel drivetrain into.

Does that sound logical? Is it crazy? I am soul searching a bit here and would like to see other people's
perspectives.

Advantages to cummins ( would be passed on to cruiser farther down the road )
Fuel efficiency ( big deal when commuting to work )
Possibility to run WVO ( very motivated to start this )
Versatility of a pickup for moving ( possibly cross country ) after graduating for college next may

Advantages to cruiser:
Wheeling ( after recent breakages, I'm starting to realize that I don't have a budget to fix / upgrade as I want + need to )
character
SUV - I can sleep inside!

I wouldn't follow this plan.

It makes much more sense to just buy another cheap 60 with less rust, because yours is fine except for that. You have learned the platform and can do upgrades as finances allow. Wheel it, bash it into trees, it's perfect for that.

The Diesel thing will never make sense on any level unless you have a truck good enough that you plan to keep it for 10 years or more, and even then the economics do not work.

If you have the coin for a nice diesel truck-buy it, but don't plan on this swap. That's a huge and expensive project you can't even consider on a student budget. My vote-keep the 60 (or buy another with less rust) and get a cheap commuter car once you know where you will be next year.

Here's a real radical plan: Sell everything next spring. Move out west. Buy an FJ62 (yep) with no rust, and start your project there. Do a mild build and manual swap and explore and camp through the southwest and California. Then if you are still interested, do a major build capable of more. You have years to do this. Diesel is your choice, but you can buy 200,000 miles of gas for what a good swap would cost.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I wouldn't follow this plan.

It makes much more sense to just buy another cheap 60 with less rust, because yours is fine except for that. You have learned the platform and can do upgrades as finances allow. Wheel it, bash it into trees, it's perfect for that.

The Diesel thing will never make sense on any level unless you have a truck good enough that you plan to keep it for 10 years or more, and even then the economics do not work.

If you have the coin for a nice diesel truck-buy it, but don't plan on this swap. That's a huge and expensive project you can't even consider on a student budget. My vote-keep the 60 (or buy another with less rust) and get a cheap commuter car once you know where you will be next year.

Here's a real radical plan: Sell everything next spring. Move out west. Buy an FJ62 (yep) with no rust, and start your project there. Do a mild build and manual swap and explore and camp through the southwest and California. Then if you are still interested, do a major build capable of more. You have years to do this. Diesel is your choice, but you can buy 200,000 miles of gas for what a good swap would cost.

I wasn't thinking of swapping this motor into a 60 for a few years, until after I was able to put a shop together and afford a second, or third vehicle. I may have a line on a rust free 60 body but I still live up in the northeast ( for now ) so "rust free" won't last for long.

I wanted to switch to diesel for the mileage and torque but also for the ability to run WVO. I am a big advocate of renewable fuels, that don't compromise food crops, and WVO is a good solution.

On the other hand, I do know the 60 pretty well... I don't know what to do. I want a diesel. I love my 60.

 

[EOE_overland]

Funny thing is...I have other cars, but I choose my 60 everyday!!! My DD always.

If I still had a Land Rover, I'd choose my LC over it too

 

[EOE_overland]

Dude, that rust is lookin' kinda rough . Not sure what the scope of rebuild parts you need are, but I got an 85 parts truck now. Unfortunately the frames got a few ventilation holes too. But most of the body is intact. It may be an East Coast truck, but it ain't a NY truck . Let me know if I can help! And if you part it out...how bout trading your 5-speed for a beautiful, newly-painted H42?? . Seriously, I understand the budget issues, so lemme know if you need anything from my 60.

-Matt

 

[brokenparts]

Chop it... buy a tow rig.