Mishimoto antifreeze

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 18, 2018
Threads
5
Messages
31
Location
Cary, NC
I just ordered a Mishimoto radiator for my '88 FJ62. Has anyone ever used their antifreeze?
Liquid Chill®
Was considering it over Toyota Red. I tried to look through other forum posts but couldn't find anything regarding it.
 
It's coolant...if its silicate free, you're good. Key is just having a 50/50 with distilled and you're fine. I like Toyota red, but I'm an OEM where I can kinda guy.
 
I use the cheapest premix I can find...
 
There's always an argument about this but if that radiator is Aluminum don't use the Green, use either Toyota Red (really good stuff) or a Specialty coolant (and they reflect the price of how special they are !).

I don't wanna hear the 'I use .... blah, blah, blah, with no problems, blah x10.' retort from anyone. Use whatever the F you want, but I've seen MANY aluminum rads retro'd into trucks with iron engines and they always get galvanic corrosion and leak at the welds - UNLESS you use a coolant that is resistant to it with the proper additive pac. I've seen it happen as quickly as 6 months.

Cheers.
 
I just ordered a Mishimoto radiator for my '88 FJ62. Has anyone ever used their antifreeze?
Liquid Chill®
Was considering it over Toyota Red. I tried to look through other forum posts but couldn't find anything regarding it.



Why ?

when this is the Best .................


DSCN9953.webp
DSCN9956.webp
DSCN9957.webp
DSCN9960.webp
DSCN9961.webp
 
Thing is, Just about every modern green antifreeze is certified for use with AL anythings now.

Prediluted Long Life 50/50 Antifreeze -Coolant | PEAK Auto

Prestone | Products

:meh:

That's not the Traditional EG Green stuff. It's EX-Life and it's formulated differently. And it's Yellow

I'm talking about AF like this:

upload_2018-12-20_17-13-30.webp


With AL rad, you want the stuff with OAA inhibitors like the Red, above. I still use the Trad green cuz I have a brass radiator. I'd switch to Red, but it doesn't mix well with any leftover green and I'm too lazy to do a total flush.
 
Is the Toyota Red still readily available? My 2000 Celica GT-S originally spec'd red, however EVERY Toyota dealer in my local area (NJ) has only pre-mixed pink. Supposedly red and pink are comparable, but there are MANY stories of pink making the WP weep after switching from red. And no it's not just pink because it's 50/50, it's a totally different formula.
 
My local carquest has it in stock
Is the Toyota Red still readily available? My 2000 Celica GT-S originally spec'd red, however EVERY Toyota dealer in my local area (NJ) has only pre-mixed pink. Supposedly red and pink are comparable, but there are MANY stories of pink making the WP weep after switching from red. And no it's not just pink because it's 50/50, it's a totally different formula.
 
Red is Red-ily available ;)

I had my local O'reilly's order some a few years ago ... It's certainly not dealer-only.
 
There's always an argument about this but if that radiator is Aluminum don't use the Green, use either Toyota Red (really good stuff) or a Specialty coolant (and they reflect the price of how special they are !).

I don't wanna hear the 'I use .... blah, blah, blah, with no problems, blah x10.' retort from anyone. Use whatever the F you want, but I've seen MANY aluminum rads retro'd into trucks with iron engines and they always get galvanic corrosion and leak at the welds - UNLESS you use a coolant that is resistant to it with the proper additive pac. I've seen it happen as quickly as 6 months.

Cheers.
This. Toyota Red uses a chemical mixture that prevents galvanic corrosion and also protect aluminum parts. But be absolutely sure you mix it with DISTILLED water or you'll be in the same boat as if you used cheap green stuff.
 
Oh, yeah, forgot about that == D.I. Water is a MUST whatever type of coolant one uses. That's why it's cheaper in the long run to use the pre-mix stuff if you don't have access to D.I. Water, though it's fairly cheap at those places where you use your own jug and they pump the reverse osmosis swill.

Good point, Spook!
 
Oooo yellowish green instead of green.. lol. Whatever makes you guys feel good
20181220_193526.webp


My point stands that most modern 50/50 (yellowish green) cheap ass coolants are perfectly safe.

Most issues I've seen with aluminum radiators are a direct result of people who wont mount them properly. Isolation is a good thing. Not what color the coolant is.


Btw, you do know the difference between distilled and deionized (DI) water right? They are most certainly not the same. But in this case fairly interchangeable. And reverse osmosis is another animal as well (still better than tap but...)
 
Last edited:
Btw, toyota red is excellent. Just expensive.
 
This is why is why I said 10 posts ago that I don't care what anybody shoves in their rad cuz these discussions always devolve into moot arguments.

Manufactures go to the expense and trouble of coloring all the different types of AF because they mostly don't play well together and they want to keep Barbie and Bob snowflake from ruining their engine/cooling system by mixing coolants that can form a precipitate. Will the Green work with Yellow/Green or even Toyo Red? I dunno. Stick some in your truck and let us know.

I never said the cheap coolants weren't safe, I just said they may not be right for a particular setup or mix with existing Antifreeze. I run cheap green, no problem.

Yes, I know the diff btwn DI and distilled water. DI I use for work experiments and Distilled I put in my Bourbon!

Don't drink what's in that GLASS, though! o_O

Cheers!
 
Modern manufacturers make their stuff colored (yellowgreen) because It does play well with any color.. that's the point. Barbie and bob don't have to think...
 
Why would you water down good bourbon ;)
 
I’m in the middle of full coolant rebuild along with many other things. How do I get the last bit of green coolant out of the motor? The coolant in the jackets of the engine? I’m doing a bunch of motor work while the engine is still in frame, not on a stand so I can’t just turn it over over.
 
Flush flush flush. First with the chemical of your choice (Prestone or other brand of flush which I think used to be caustic soda, or my choice which is citric acid) and then keep changing out the water until it's clear. You run the motor with the coolant system fully assembled with maybe the exception of the radiator cap obviously watching the temperature like a hawk. On the 3F there is a block drain on the left rear of the motor I believe. Not sure on the 2F. Using this drain will make the process go a lot faster and more thorough.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom