Minus 7 - Travis builds a Troopy (80+40+3UZ) (8 Viewers)

[Scheefdog]

Time for an overdue update. I have been working on some things that are less glorious. I stripped down, cleaned, painted, and rebuilt an e-locked rear axle that I picked up awhile ago. This will get swapped out with the current axle.

I also rebuilt the front axle including new birfields, spindles, and part time hubs. I cleaned and painted the knuckles and dust shields, but I haven't cleaned and painted the main axle housing yet. I will do that when I do the frame. A couple random pics of the process.

 

[Scheefdog]

The next big step that I am working on now is the engine and drivetrain. I am keeping it all Toyota as I said in my first post and the obvious engine choice in my mind is the 2UZ.

I will add a little broad information on the 2UZ swap for anyone looking to do a swap because there is not a lot of information available since it is a less common swap. There are essentially two 2UZ options.

Early non-VVTI 2UZ - 245 hp and 315 ft lbs tq

• 00-04 Tundra & Sequoia engines are most plentiful and have 4 speed transmission which makes for simpler wiring
• Tundra does not have an immobilizer

VVTI 2UZ - 282 hp and 325 ft lbs tq

• 05-06 Tundra does not have immobilizer
• I believe it might be possible to re-flash ECU to remove the immobilizer, transmission control, etc

I have owned both versions of the 2UZ in Tundra's and either seems like a good choice. The VVTI version obviously has more power and there is more difference than what is shown in the numbers because of how the VVTI optimizes the power. This is particularly prevalent when heavily loaded down or towing.

With 2UZ Tundra and Sequoia engine more plentiful, that is what I begin looking for with a preference for the Tundra because it doesn't have an immobilizer. Since I live in a remote part of the mountains, there is a limited number of salvage yards within a couple hours. I looked at several non-vvti options, but they were either very high mileage or premium in price (and still 220k+ miles). The 2UZ VVTI engines seem to command a premium price.

This made me look a little broader and I found myself looking at eBay and seeing 3UZ JDM engines for a reasonable price. For those who don’t know, the 3UZ came in the Lexus 430 cars starting in the year 2000. Here are the quick specs.

3UZ - 290 hp and 320 ft lbs tq

• 4.3 L with VVTI
• Basically the same as a 2UZ VVTI, but it has an aluminum block and is smaller displacement.
• ECU can be flashed to eliminate the immobilizer, transmission, etc.
• Factory ECU can be tuned for a supercharger

I took the leap and ordered a 3UZ JDM engine from one of the more reputable suppliers. It has a rear sump oil pan which should hopefully work and save me the cost of having to buy a 100 series oil pan.

Looking at the dyno graphs of the 3UZ versus 2UZ, the 3UZ makes the same torque down low as the non-VVTI 2UZ. The torque curve climbs quickly to basically match the VVTI 2UZ peak torque.

Therefore, I think the 3UZ is going to move my cruiser just fine and provide a little weight savings and better fuel economy than the 2UZ. There is an easy to source supercharger option that is reasonable in price if I decide I want more power.

Picture of the engine upon arrival and another of doing an initial compression test.

 

[Scheefdog]

There are not a lot of options for manual transmissions that mate up to the UZ. The 1uz, 2uz, and 3uz all share the same factory bell housing. The 1UZ swap is popular with the 4runner and Pickup guys as well as the street/drift crowd. Most of them utilize the R150/R151/R154 transmission and there are conversion bell housings readily available. In Australia, there are adapters available to utilize the H55 transmission. There is also the H151 that came behind the 2uz in certain markets, but it is rare and expensive to get in the states.

I ended up finding out that the R151 transmission is utilized in 70 series with a split case. I found a used one at a reasonable price and went for it. I ordered up a bell housing to mate the transmission to the engine and it is looking good. There is only one minor issue that I have noticed and that is the slave cylinder isn't going to like the driveshaft. I'm working on getting a bell housing that has the slave on the other side because that will obviously fix the problem.

 

[mrboatman]

 

[macdaddy59]

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[MOTOV8R]

seems like the slave cylinder is far enough forward and high enough that the driveshaft should clear. That’s where the slave cylinder is on stock 40s and the tranny is shorter so the tcase output is closer.

Edit: that exhaust looks like it could more of a problem.

 

[Scheefdog]

seems like the slave cylinder is far enough forward and high enough that the driveshaft should clear. That’s where the slave cylinder is on stock 40s and the tranny is shorter so the tcase output is closer.

Edit: that exhaust looks like it could more of a problem.

I wish the slave cylinder was in that same location because it would be fine. However, it is at an odd angle on this bell housing. It isn't at a 3 o'clock position like the stock Toyota housings, instead it is at 4:30. I think it must have been designed this way for the guys running it with the supra transmission in cars?

Here is a better picture showing the engine in place with the driveshaft flanges and the slave cylinder mount circled.

 

[Scheefdog]

I put the engine and transmission in for a preliminary fit. I played with the position of the engine up and down - and also front to back to get it close to where I think it will be good. Looks like I can mount the engine close to center and clear the steering shaft fine. I want the option to run the factory AC compressor and it looks like that can work as well with the right fittings/lines. I will be running a mechanical fan that is made for this engine. It is the same diameter as an FZJ80 fan.

I had to cut the aqualu tunnel opening wider and I will be modifying a stock 40 transmission cover to fit. I will cut the opening more to match the stock cover. I am going to be able to utilize the factory 80 crossmember with minor modification to support my setup.

 

[MOTOV8R]

the high pinion makes a big difference in making the driveshaft higher. your picture makes the problem obvious. Maybe you could take that mount off and fab your own with a bracket that attaches above instead of underneath the fork opening?

This is an awesome build.

 

[Scheefdog]

the high pinion makes a big difference in making the driveshaft higher. your picture makes the problem obvious. Maybe you could take that mount off and fab your own with a bracket that attaches above instead of underneath the fork opening?

This is an awesome build.

The high pinion does make a huge difference. If this was an FJ40 or FJ60 with a regular pinion and less up travel, I think it wouldn't be an issue.

I like your thinking on doing my own mount and I also considered going to an internal slave cylinder because then I could just remove the mount. However, I was able to source a bell housing with the slave on the other side.

 

[Scheefdog]

Castlemaine Rod Shop out of Australia makes all sorts of bell housings and conversion stuff. I noticed they had the bell housing on their website with the slave on the drivers side and emailed them thinking that they would either not respond to my request to ship to the US or it would be outrageous in cost. I was surprised by how prompt they were with responses to questions. The price was reasonable and showed up in about a week.

Castlemaine is into building burnout cars and has some crazy 1,700 hp builds including the "war-bird". Look it up if you are bored...

 

[DangerNoodle]

Travis, I think you will be surprised at how little that driveshaft is going to move upwards near the t-case. I thought I had the same issue with my 40, but with ~6.5" of up travel, I have no issues. I'd bet that you will be OK. Did you end up using those knuckles I sold ya?

-DJ

 

[Scheefdog]

I wanted to get the steering shafts figured out before making the motor mounts. I ended up doing what I think is typically done for the FJ60 steering box on a 40. I ordered a Borgenson joint that is splined on one end to fit the 80 series intermediate shaft - the other end has a double D. I cut the end of the 40 steering shaft off and ground the end for the double D. The alignment looks to be great.

 

[Scheefdog]

Travis, I think you will be surprised at how little that driveshaft is going to move upwards near the t-case. I thought I had the same issue with my 40, but with ~6.5" of up travel, I have no issues. I'd bet that you will be OK. Did you end up using those knuckles I sold ya?

-DJ

I have been doing my mock up with the springs removed and the axle on the bump stops because I wanted to make sure the oil pan is good. Maybe it is because of where the transferase is sitting in the 80 frame? When the axle is on the bump stops, the driveshaft looks to be close to parallel to the frame (horizontal).

I did use the knuckles that I got from you when I rebuilt the front axle. One of the knuckles on this poor 80 had sheared studs. When I took it apart, it became apparent that the knuckle came loose while driving (the birfield and axle shaft had some damage as well). I was grateful to have the good set of knuckles from you - thanks! I cleaned them up nice and painted them too.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I have been doing my mock up with the springs removed and the axle on the bump stops because I wanted to make sure the oil pan is good. Maybe it is because of where the transferase is sitting in the 80 frame? When the axle is on the bump stops, the driveshaft looks to be close to parallel to the frame (horizontal).

I did use the knuckles that I got from you when I rebuilt the front axle. One of the knuckles on this poor 80 had sheared studs. When I took it apart, it became apparent that the knuckle came loose while driving (the birfield and axle shaft had some damage as well). I was grateful to have the good set of knuckles from you - thanks! I cleaned them up nice and painted them too.

I'm glad they went to a good home! I had no need for them with the hellfires. I stuck a piece of PVC in to simulate my driveshaft. It looked really close before I tried that, but it ended up working. Hopefully, it works out for you! Any minitruck 8" normal pinon should work in the 80 8" if you end up not clearing. A lot of minitruck guys are looking for the HP, so you may be able to trade for one.

 

[UZJ40]

This is a cool build! Couple questions for ya -

Are you doing a soft top?
How are you going to actuate the rear e locker?
What brake booster are you going with?

I just put FJ Cruiser steelies on mine and I'm pretty happy with the stance. What size ties will you run?

I really like how you mounted the fenders to the front shock towers. I might try something similar.
Thanks!

 

[Scheefdog]

This is a cool build! Couple questions for ya -

Are you doing a soft top?
How are you going to actuate the rear e locker?
What brake booster are you going with?

I just put FJ Cruiser steelies on mine and I'm pretty happy with the stance. What size ties will you run?

I really like how you mounted the fenders to the front shock towers. I might try something similar.
Thanks!

Your build is awesome and I'm excited to see it moving again. Seeing that big 5.7 makes me feel like I need to supercharge mine in order to be cool.

I am planning to do a hard top because that will be most functional since I live at 8,000ft in the mountains and want to be able to drive this frequently. However, I might start with a soft top or just a bikini top if I can get it drivable for this coming summer.

For the rear locker - I am thinking cable actuated. I'm sure you have seen that Chilkat makes a setup? The 9.5" one isn't as slick looking as their 8" setup. I'm curious to see what you come up with assuming you stick with the cool cable levers on your dash.

Brake booster is the 80 series and is shown in some of my pictures. I ordered a spacer for it from City Racer and had to flip it upside down for everything to line up and clear the rib on the firewall. I have a new Aisin non-abs master for it and new non-abs brake lines and fittings for the front axle to eliminate the extra ABS lines. Are you doing something similar?

I am excited to get my FJ Cruiser steel wheels mounted with rubber, but am holding off on getting tires until I get closer to driving. I am planning on narrow (hopefully 10.5 wide) 34 or 35 inch tires. For gearing I plan to keep the diffs stock (4.10) and do under drive gears in the transfercase to get close to what would be 4.56 gears which I think is about right with 34s and this engine/trans combo.

 

[UZJ40]

Your build is awesome and I'm excited to see it moving again. Seeing that big 5.7 makes me feel like I need to supercharge mine in order to be cool.

I am planning to do a hard top because that will be most functional since I live at 8,000ft in the mountains and want to be able to drive this frequently. However, I might start with a soft top or just a bikini top if I can get it drivable for this coming summer.

For the rear locker - I am thinking cable actuated. I'm sure you have seen that Chilkat makes a setup? The 9.5" one isn't as slick looking as their 8" setup. I'm curious to see what you come up with assuming you stick with the cool cable levers on your dash.

Brake booster is the 80 series and is shown in some of my pictures. I ordered a spacer for it from City Racer and had to flip it upside down for everything to line up and clear the rib on the firewall. I have a new Aisin non-abs master for it and new non-abs brake lines and fittings for the front axle to eliminate the extra ABS lines. Are you doing something similar?

I am excited to get my FJ Cruiser steel wheels mounted with rubber, but am holding off on getting tires until I get closer to driving. I am planning on narrow (hopefully 10.5 wide) 34 or 35 inch tires. For gearing I plan to keep the diffs stock (4.10) and do under drive gears in the transfercase to get close to what would be 4.56 gears which I think is about right with 34s and this engine/trans combo.

I have seen the chillcat setup, and I've also looked at these...

Cable locker conversion, my way.

Hey all, just want to share my progress with my recently designed cable locker conversion. There's been a few people asking me about this so I figure I would just start a thread now despite not being 100% complete yet. So this all started after acquiring my 97 fzj from my father a couple...

forum.ih8mud.com

Honestly, they both seem fairly expensive. I think if you have the OEM actuator and don't mind taking it apart and using the guts out of it, it is a very doable project.

I have the ABS master. I was hoping to use it. I've seen many threads about 80 guys ditching their ABS and rear proportion valve, while keeping the same master so we'll see.

 

[Vossie]

Awesome build! Glad to see how you placed your cowl relative to the frame as I'm facing a similar although fairly different build, 4runner chassis instead of an 80 and 1uz instead of the 3uz, although I am going R151.

Question for you, what fly wheel and clutch combo did you go with?

 

[Scheefdog]

I have seen the chillcat setup, and I've also looked at these...

Cable locker conversion, my way.

Hey all, just want to share my progress with my recently designed cable locker conversion. There's been a few people asking me about this so I figure I would just start a thread now despite not being 100% complete yet. So this all started after acquiring my 97 fzj from my father a couple...

forum.ih8mud.com

Honestly, they both seem fairly expensive. I think if you have the OEM actuator and don't mind taking it apart and using the guts out of it, it is a very doable project.

I have the ABS master. I was hoping to use it. I've seen many threads about 80 guys ditching their ABS and rear proportion valve, while keeping the same master so we'll see.

I haven't seen that thread - thanks for sharing it. Interesting to see the different setups and I think your thought on using the OEM actuator could be a good way to go. Maybe I'll be slow enough with mine that I can talk you into selling me a replica of your cool lever setup once you have it all figured out.