Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser (1 Viewer)

[ARB777]

Proair air tech 2. Its huge. And its a problem. To retain 3rd row seating, I would have to mount it behind the seat as pictured. Impossible to mount it to the quarter panel like the oem unit. I looked at the smaller proair 1100. Even though its slimmer it still wont fit with the seats folded up.

 

[ARB777]

#8 fitting from compressor to condenser. Just missing the hose, a 90* female on top and a straight female at the bottom.

 

[ARB777]

#6 line bridging to the bottom of the condenser on the other side. Just need the hose.

 

[ARB777]

#6 tee in place.

 

[Dissent]

Thanks for the pics. That unit is HUGE! I only have about 17 inches front to back, 9 inches wall to fridge and about 12 inches tall. That 1100 unit is closer to my needs. you may have to go with a slim unit to fit in the wall.

 

[Dissent]

Vintage Air has a nice L shaped trunk unit that would accommodate the 3rd row nicely.

 

[ARB777]

Thanks for the pics. That unit is HUGE! I only have about 17 inches front to back, 9 inches wall to fridge and about 12 inches tall. That 1100 unit is closer to my needs. you may have to go with a slim unit to fit in the wall.

The heater stuff is what made it even bulkier. Im thinking about opening the unit and chopping off the heater part but thats just crazy.lol. The 1100 wont help me either. If only its easy to source the oem rear evap and blower id be all over ranma's set.

 

[Dissent]

Have you looked into sourcing those parts? odds are the blower is available, the evap could be elusive.
After measuring my space, I only have about 7Dx11Wx18T. Now that ProAir 526 would fit great on my chrome attic rack with about 1/2 to spare heigh wise. That would eliminate my vent and duct issues too. Similar BTU output as the AT II.
The 526's size is 5.5x33.75x12 / 23.5lbs.

 

[flintknapper]

Ok heres whats happening right now. I had the shop chop off the fittings from the old condenser and weld a male AN type fitting #6 for the out and #8 for the in. They are also welding a #10 AN fitting to serve as a tee for the return from the back and a #6 AN fitting as tee to supply refrigerant to the back. Im gonna crimp my own lines with female ends to bridge the tee and the rear unit. $75 per welded fitting. So thats $300 for all four.

Ouch....! Are they welding the fittings (as in TIG), or brazing them (a completely different procedure)?

Brazing aluminum tubing (using braze type fittings) is not difficult. All that is needed is a piece of emery cloth, some flux, some brazing rods (Super 5) and Mapp gas torch. As long as you can remove the parts to be joined and get them up on a bench...its an easy process.

 

[Dissent]

Ouch....! Are they welding the fittings (as in TIG), or brazing them (a completely different procedure)?

Brazing aluminum tubing (using braze type fittings) is not difficult. All that is needed is a piece of emery cloth, some flux, some brazing rods (Super 5) and Mapp gas torch. As long as you can remove the parts to be joined and get them up on a bench...its an easy process.

Doesn't sound much different than sweating copper.

 

[ARB777]

Ouch....! Are they welding the fittings (as in TIG), or brazing them (a completely different procedure)?

Brazing aluminum tubing (using braze type fittings) is not difficult. All that is needed is a piece of emery cloth, some flux, some brazing rods (Super 5) and Mapp gas torch. As long as you can remove the parts to be joined and get them up on a bench...its an easy process.

They brazed it. I was just using the term weld loosely. I was looking at the process and kinda looks like soldering. Doesnt look to difficult. If i were to do it again. I would just invest time to learn it.

 

[ARB777]

I am trying to decide on which hose system to use. My choices are:

A. Traditional crimp hoses
B. Ez clip system by vintage air
C. Burgaflex system by proair

Looks like ez clip and burgaflex are very similar if not the same and are easier to work with than the traditional crimp method. My only worry is sourcing parts. Id like to go proair just because its local to me and the cheapest but seems like i cant find their burgaflex hoses and fittings elsewhere. Anyone here has experience with these new hoses?

 

[Dissent]

I am trying to decide on which hose system to use. My choices are:

A. Traditional crimp hoses
B. Ez clip system by vintage air
C. Burgaflex system by proair

Looks like ez clip and burgaflex are very similar if not the same and are easier to work with than the traditional crimp method. My only worry is sourcing parts. Id like to go proair just because its local to me and the cheapest but seems like i cant find their burgaflex hoses and fittings elsewhere. Anyone here has experience with these new hoses?

No, but they are the direction I will go most likely.

 

[Bambusiero]

Brazing aluminum tubing (using braze type fittings) is not difficult. All that is needed is a piece of emery cloth, some flux, some brazing rods (Super 5) and Mapp gas torch. As long as you can remove the parts to be joined and get them up on a bench...its an easy process.

I think I need to give this a try.
Any specific aluminum brazing rod/wire and flux you can recommend?

Does anyone know where to source metric as well as inch fractional size aluminum HVAC tube?

 

[ARB777]

@flintknapper Would i have a problem if i use rubber hoses to line my rear system or hard lines are necessary?

 

[Dindu Nuffin]

This kinda real time help here... as you know, i installed a new condenser, evaporator, TXV and drier with new viton orings using PAG oil to lubricate the orings.

I'm vacuuming my system as we speak. I tested my hoses before hooking up, and only saw 25 in hg after about a minute. It held after shutting the pump off, but it didn't go to 28-30 like I've read it should.

I've got the low pressure line connected with the pump running for a little over 15 minutes and it still shows 25 in hg. I did turn the pump off for about ten seconds at one point to see if the needle would immediately move, and it did not.

Is it safe to assume that 25 in hg is absolute vacuum and that my gauge is inaccurate, or do I need to see more vacuum before proceeding? If it's of note, I will not be charging the system, but I want it to be in good order before I bring it to them.

 

[flintknapper]

I think I need to give this a try.
Any specific aluminum brazing rod/wire and flux you can recommend?

I like Super Alloy 5...it will come with the proper flux if you buy a 'starter kit'. Get a small bottle of Mapp gas and a tip. A small roll of crocus cloth and small wire brush...you should be ready to go.

Just hit YouTube for aluminum brazing so I don't have to explain the procedure here. It's not hard to do.

A few caveats:

Get your parts CLEAN.
Have ample access to the part (I.E. up on a bench where you can maneuver it).
Make sure you get the parent metal up to 600° F. so the brazing rod will flow.
Keep the flame MOVING when heating aluminum. (your flux will basically tell you when the part is hot enough.
For round tubing...expect to do one 'side' at time...don't try to go around the circumference in one pass, the procedure is actual 'brazing' where you have to deposit material into the heated parent metal...so it's not like 'sweating a copper fitting', but also not hard to do.

 

[flintknapper]

This kinda real time help here... as you know, i installed a new condenser, evaporator, TXV and drier with new viton orings using PAG oil to lubricate the orings.

I'm vacuuming my system as we speak. I tested my hoses before hooking up, and only saw 25 in hg after about a minute. It held after shutting the pump off, but it didn't go to 28-30 like I've read it should.

I've got the low pressure line connected with the pump running for a little over 15 minutes and it still shows 25 in hg. I did turn the pump off for about ten seconds at one point to see if the needle would immediately move, and it did not.

Is it safe to assume that 25 in hg is absolute vacuum and that my gauge is inaccurate, or do I need to see more vacuum before proceeding? If it's of note, I will not be charging the system, but I want it to be in good order before I bring it to them.

The vacuum you are able to pull will be dependent on your equipment and your altitude (read absolute air pressure). I don't know the altitude where you are...but unless you are at sea level don't expect 28-30 In. Hg. Sounds like your hoses are fine...so move on to the system.

If you are testing only for leaks...then hook up your gauges and pump, open BOTH the high and low side lines. Pump down the system using GOOD vacuum pump oil for 30 minutes. Turn your gauges off while the pump is still running. Then note your level of vacuum. Compare to the absolute pressure for your altitude and then just watch for leaks. If there is no significant drop in vacuum after an hour or so...you should be good to go.

If you don't intend to charge the unit yourself then the shop doing the work should pull a 'deep vacuum' on the system before charging it. Not your worry. You just want to be sure there are no leaks anywhere.

 

[smritte]

It's been a week since i read this thread, two more pages wow. Looks like its coming along. Ill throw something else in the mix. When I install my rear evap, I will be using hose instead of aluminum tubing. Reason's for this is, easier to route, wont pick up as much heat in the low line from outside (condenser has to work harder). When I use to work for GM, replacing the lines to the back of the SUV's was a pain. They would normally leak due to rubbing on something.

When you mount your rear evap, make sure you have space to run a water drain for the moisture that will be coming off the evap.

It was suggested in the beginning of the thread, to add refrigerant dye. Do this and buy a cheap black light. I dealt with a number of motor homes and vans with added in evaporators. Poor crimps, porous aluminum weld's and loose fittings were common. Dye is one of the best ways of detecting this with 134.

On the subject of R/D, one point wasn't made on the reason for them. They have a siphon tube inside. Beside being storage and containing desiccant to pull moisture (water) they insure the txv gets liquid not vapor. Without getting into the way txv's are made, think of it as a balancing act with internal pressure. Most of the rear units Ive worked with didn't have a rear R/D. The ones we retro fitted ended up with slightly lower and more stable temps.

I have some cut-away R/D and accumulators at work i use in class. If I remember I can post a pic of the inside.

Scott

 

[smritte]

The vacuum you are able to pull will be dependent on your equipment and your altitude (read absolute air pressure). I don't know the altitude where you are...but unless you are at sea level don't expect 28-30 In. Hg. Sounds like your hoses are fine...so move on to the system.

If you are testing only for leaks...then hook up your gauges and pump, open BOTH the high and low side lines. Pump down the system using GOOD vacuum pump oil for 30 minutes. Turn your gauges off while the pump is still running. Then note your level of vacuum. Compare to the absolute pressure for your altitude and then just watch for leaks. If there is no significant drop in vacuum after an hour or so...you should be good to go.

If you don't intend to charge the unit yourself then the shop doing the work should pull a 'deep vacuum' on the system before charging it. Not your worry. You just want to be sure there are no leaks anywhere.

Adding to this.
Vacuum testing is a very good way to find leakage. If you have something seeping down over time, you wont see it. Ive had porous lines, welds, small leaks seep down over time. make sure when your done, put AC uv dye in it.
The amount of vacuum is dependent on atmospheric pressure and equip. The amount of vacuum and time needed is going to be based more on ambient temperature. Your vacuum is multi purpose. Remove air, boil out moisture (water) and basic leak test. When you apply a vacuum (change pressure on the surface of a liquid), you change boiling point(and freeze point). Typical automotive pumps pull down around 28"-29" of vacuum. That brings the boiling point of water down to around 75-80 degrees. Being its summer removing the moisture is going to be easy. If you complete this when its cold you need to warm up the system to remove the moisture properly.

Scott