Builds Meet “Marge” our new Piggy (1 Viewer)

[PabloCruise]

Took out the piece of metal in the door that used to have the window squeegee/felt attached to it. Gonna give Steele Rubber Products a call Monday and see if @NikP parts numbers are still good # 70-3804-61 Outer Beltline and 70-0961-60 Weatherstrip Beltline from Steele Rubber Products.

Nik if you are still around the sty can you comment on which part number you used for the outside? I’m assuming “outer” is for the outside and one the inside?

Also has anyone found replacements for the metal clips?

Getting closer to being able to turn the key and drive!View attachment 2976440View attachment 2976441View attachment 2976442

SOR has replacement clips. I just got product that you cut to length and glue in place. No clips. My inner was felt whiskers, my outer has a rubber squeegee to keep water out...

 

[PabloCruise]

Took out the piece of metal in the door that used to have the window squeegee/felt attached to it. Gonna give Steele Rubber Products a call Monday and see if @NikP parts numbers are still good # 70-3804-61 Outer Beltline and 70-0961-60 Weatherstrip Beltline from Steele Rubber Products.

Nik if you are still around the sty can you comment on which part number you used for the outside? I’m assuming “outer” is for the outside and one the inside?

Also has anyone found replacements for the metal clips?

Getting closer to being able to turn the key and drive!View attachment 2976440View attachment 2976441View attachment 2976442

My guess is that trying to drill the holes in the right place for the clips will be a PITA. I think I had to drill holes for the tailgate inner or outer (or both?). Not impossible, but requires some precision...

 

[PabloCruise]

Took 3 cans. And I used every last drop of all 3. I bought the 4th when I bought the 3rd cause I didn’t want to make another trip. You’d be safe with 4, 3 if you want to gamble there is no size on the rattle can. It’s “the can” from cruiser corps, and the cans I had made locally were same size.View attachment 2976521

Looks like 4 fluid oz?

 

[jestlurnin]

Looks good! Are you going to just do touch-up paint once you repair the seat mounts?

I’m just gonna give the shop my extra can of paint and ask that they give it a good coat once they make the repair.

 

[jestlurnin]

Looks like 4 fluid oz?

I saw the 4 fluid ounces as well but that seems like waaayyyyyy to little for the size of the can.

 

[jestlurnin]

SOR has replacement clips. I just got product that you cut to length and glue in place. No clips. My inner was felt whiskers, my outer has a rubber squeegee to keep water out...

What glue should I be looking at for this job? Just 3M weatherstrip adhesive.

 

[PabloCruise]

What glue should I be looking at for this job? Just 3M weatherstrip adhesive.

I am not sure! The guy that installed my glass did it. If you have a friendly neighborhood automotive paint supplier, I would ask them.
Yes, probably a 3M product...

 

[bobm]

What glue should I be looking at for this job? Just 3M weatherstrip adhesive.

Thats what i use on all weatherstripping

 

[jestlurnin]

Well I thought I was gonna button up Marge today and take her for a spin. Alas the rear heater lines are leaking!! I’ve got green antifreeze all over my pristine (not so much) floors. They were not leaking (as far as I know) prior to me tying them up rather than removing them to paint so I fear I’m to blame.

Took the lines down to multiple auto parts stores and no non metric heater hose look even close to the correct diameter. Soft heater hose was my initial go to but I’m open to other options.

What have you guys done to bypass leaky rear heater lines? Best case scenario is I find a great set of used lines but I’m not holding my breath.

 

[jestlurnin]

On a positive note I utilized a city racer after aftermarket choke cable (thanks for the tip @MacDaddyRabbit) for my aftermarket city racer carb and Marge did run for about 30 second until I saw the leak in the rear heater lines. I feel like once I get the rear heater lines figured out it’ll be a semi quick wrap up to get her back in the road.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

On a positive note I utilized a city racer after aftermarket choke cable (thanks for the tip @MacDaddyRabbit) for my aftermarket city racer carb and Marge did run for about 30 second until I saw the leak in the rear heater lines. I feel like once I get the rear heater lines figured out it’ll be a semi quick wrap up to get her back in the road.

how did u make it the FJ55 Longer needed length ?


did u mount it in the oem choke hole location ?

 

[jestlurnin]

Yes sir. Stock location. Far left side of the dash lower port. Fit great. Maybe due to the aftermarket carb?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Yes sir. Stock location. Far left side of the dash lower port. Fit great. Maybe due to the aftermarket carb?

can you post a solid overhead shot well lit to show the cable routing u ddi ?


this wouold be SOLID TECH indeed !


good show you made it go !

 

[jestlurnin]

Absolutely, Marge is up at buddies shop so it might be a couple days. Also will post up some pics of the FJ55 hand throttle that was almost installed today…

Rear heater lines search continues!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Absolutely, Marge is up at buddies shop so it might be a couple days. Also will post up some pics of the FJ55 hand throttle that was almost installed today…

Rear heater lines search continues!

do u simply need oem delete caps for the short term ?


i have the tripple wall material epdm uv rated service caps if u require them ?


clamps too

 

[riderjgs]

Well I thought I was gonna button up Marge today and take her for a spin. Alas the rear heater lines are leaking!! I’ve got green antifreeze all over my pristine (not so much) floors. They were not leaking (as far as I know) prior to me tying them up rather than removing them to paint so I fear I’m to blame.

Took the lines down to multiple auto parts stores and no non metric heater hose look even close to the correct diameter. Soft heater hose was my initial go to but I’m open to other options.

What have you guys done to bypass leaky rear heater lines? Best case scenario is I find a great set of used lines but I’m not holding my breath.

PM sent

 

[jestlurnin]

Thanks Mr. Matt! May have a lead from @riderjgs Stay tuned. PM returned.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks Mr. Matt! May have a lead from @riderjgs Stay tuned. PM returned.

my only concern is your set up for success here in one way shape or form ?

if he / @riderjgs can help , in a better or direct method way then :

THIS IS THE WAY





​

 

[jestlurnin]

Hello everyone, I had a bit of time and got the new to me rear heater lines in. Best part is they don’t leak!

Now trying to get Marge to run and idle below 1500 RPM’s…..

I believe it is directly related to my fuel cut solenoid on the city racer carb not being hooked up appropriately/at all. I found a couple threads in the 40 section that mimic the exact issues I’m having.

Can someone out there that has a stock 77’/78’ set up trace the wire from the fire wall to the carb for me? I believe I’m looking for a black wire or black wire with yellow stripe. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

I’ve attached a picture of the only wire in the engine bay that is remotely close to being able to stretch to the carb. It looks to me as if one of the wires coming outa the connector has been cut and the end terminal has had the clip broken off of it that holds it in the carb side FCS connection.

I’ve also attached a picture of the 2 modules under the dash closest to the driver door. Can someone confirm the FCS wire comes out of either of them? Please let me know if more info/more pictures would help. I have a ton of them.

 

[bobm]

Looks like it! Little story with this!! On my 78 FJ40 that fusible link to the Carb for the fuel cut-off switch stalled my 40 and left me on side of road! Never ever happened to me in a Toyota before!! Next day came to pick it up, pushed down on that link, she fired right up .