Builds mcgaskins' 2013 build thread - Palladium

[dcs111]

Maxtrax are one of those "worth their weight in gold" mods, so while expensive, they are absolutely worth it. The other thing I like about them and similar top quality accessories is that they hold their value. If you pay $300 for a pair and don't beat them up, you can sell them later if you don't need or want them for ~$250. As much as I like wheeling in groups, my favorite wheeling is solo in remote places, so things like a good winch, Maxtrax, Inreach, etc. are very important to me. If you will be alone and out in the middle of nowhere, it's some of the cheapest insurance you can buy!

We are a roaming family of four and generally gun it solo... slowly amassing a pile of gear to further insure a safe trip! Thx again!!!

 

[dcs111]

Thanks @g1701gst - you're exactly right post 30 outlines how I went about it, and I'll add this is the second time I've done this mod the same way and have no complaints. No extra wind noise, barely increased overall height, and best of all - simple and inexpensive. I had to grab them off the roof recently for a deep sand situation, and they were easy to grab and remount as well.

I need to find more cross rails; our Thule roof box has a max span of 33” and the pin spacing for the ‘Trax is closer 35”...

 

[mcgaskins]

With most of the major modifications out of the way, I added a couple of simple things: a Midland MXT115 GMRS radio, LED interior lights, reverse lights, and license plate lights. The interior lights and license plate lights were straightforward and make the 200 look and feel a bit more modern, and I think I spent less than $30 and under an hour for everything. I'd prefer a slightly more warm color for the LEDs, but they are bright and functional. Per PM request, I'll post the links to the bulbs I bought, but I am not endorsing these in any way nor do I know their long term quality. They were cheap and work just fine which is exactly what I was looking for. I actually didn't need to buy the grid/matrix style one for the rear cargo area because I found a couple in a random bin in the garage
I believe the 200 uses exactly 12 bulbs in this size including the license plate lights

Amazon product ASIN B07GRVN7R6
These are the reverse lights

Amazon product ASIN B07FYH2V4J

Before

After (only rear most light is changed in this pic)

The puddle light difference is significant

The color temperature is a bit exaggerated here due to the camera

This is a more accurate representation of the color temperature - the front is still halogen and the back is LED

 

[mcgaskins]

Everything besides the reverse lights just pops out with a plastic trim tool or sharp edge, but the reverse lights requires a little more work. After doing one side, I figured it would make sense to do a quick video on how to do the other side. It's not difficult, but this may be helpful to someone giving it a try for the first time:

 

[Str8Laced]

WHAT MODIFICATIONS?

Speaking of aesthetics, my first modification was to swap the Tundra TRD Pro BBS wheels and 285/65/18 (32.56"x11.50") Cooper AT3s for the new Icon Vector 5 in titanium and go up to a 285/75/17 (33.86"x11.26") Nitto Ridge Grapplers.

I'm now the proud owner of the TRD Pro BBS Wheels and 285/65/18 Cooper AT3's, thanks again @mcgaskins, glad we were able to work out a deal. The Palladium Build looks great, very interesting reading

 

[mcgaskins]

I'm now the proud owner of the TRD Pro BBS Wheels and 285/65/18 Cooper AT3's, thanks again @mcgaskins, glad we were able to work out a deal. The Palladium Build looks great, very interesting reading

View attachment 2417559

Looks awesome and love that color!

 

[reddog90]

SLIDERS AND SUSPENSION
The specs for the suspension are: ARB2702 front springs with N91005-S front shocks and ARB2722 rear springs with N61029-S rear shocks. I went with SPC adjustable UCAs which are the 4th set I've had with zero issues. Here are pics of the stance right after the lift which I think looks very proportional and far less like a Highlander ("Less like a Highlander" should have been my build thread name).

Did you consider an Ironman FCP kit when choosing your lift?

 

[mcgaskins]

Did you consider an Ironman FCP kit when choosing your lift?

I did not. I have heard good things about Ironman, but it is not as mainstream as ARB/OME and doesn't offer the same availability or dealer support in the US. I like to stick to tried and true formulas, so for me that meant OME. I've tried many different setups over the years on multiple platforms, and I think OME is difficult to beat for the combination of performance, value, durability, quality, and support. I'm lucky to live under 15 minutes away from Slee Offroad, and they are a big ARB/OME shop. All those factors combined made the choice easy to stick with what I know works and what I have enjoyed in the past, and I think it is great price too.

 

[mcgaskins]

I wanted to add some auxiliary lights that were sleek and didn't distract from the flow of the vehicle which can be a challenge with this slim style front bumper. Fortunately @JohnJB is always sending me links to things I don't need, and he sent over a sweet looking light bar from Australian company Stedi that looked like it would fit the bill nicely. It's a 21" single row bar with blacked out optics unless you're looking at it straight on, and it's extremely high quality with a great wiring harness included as well as 2 different sets of mounts (attach at the back or the sides of the light bar). The light bar brackets Rhino sells with the front bumper are also very adjustable and high quality, so the only hard part was figuring out exactly which of the possible combinations would work best. I decided to try mounting it on top of the hoop which mostly obstructs the front facing camera, but I don't really use it so I'm not too worried. If it becomes an issue, I can always remount it in a different location.

In keeping with an OEM style them, I picked up a Toyota OEM fog light switch from Slee and wired the light bar to it. When the switch is clicked in, the light bar will automatically come on with the high beams, or it will turn off with another click of the switch. The switch is the type where it stays in place wherever you leave it, so if you want high beams to work as normal, you can just leave the switch in the off position. I did a rural drive very late at night recently, and I was impressed with the power and throw of the light bar. It's a very high quality color and even dispersion of the beam pattern, so I am very happy with the purchase.

Straight on and from a low viewpoint you can see the LEDs which make the light bar look yellow

From all normal angles it looks completely black however

 

[CharlieS]

Looks great. Any chance it is small enough to fit inside/below the hoop opening?

 

[mcgaskins]

Looks great. Any chance it is small enough to fit inside/below the hoop opening?

I definitely tried to get it to work there, but the light bar is too deep to fit without hitting the bumper support. If I moved the brackets forward, it fits, but then the light bar becomes vulnerable as it sticks out further than anything else on the truck. I need to align it to point downward slightly, so I may try repositioning it then. Between the 2 styles of mounting brackets on light bar itself and the 2 orientations of the Rhino brackets, there are quite a few ways to mount it which is really nice.

 

[TNos54]

I picked up a pair of Stedi's Type-X driving lights a couple years ago for my FJ and I love them. I wish they had a distributor here in the states, but even with shipping from Aus they're still pretty reasonably priced.

Great build by the way, I'm super jealous of you 200 guys.

 

[Markuson]

I wanted to add some auxiliary lights that were sleek and didn't distract from the flow of the vehicle which can be a challenge with this slim style front bumper. Fortunately @JohnJB is always sending me links to things I don't need, and he sent over a sweet looking light bar from Australian company Stedi that looked like it would fit the bill nicely. It's a 21" single row bar with blacked out optics unless you're looking at it straight on, and it's extremely high quality with a great wiring harness included as well as 2 different sets of mounts (attach at the back or the sides of the light bar). The light bar brackets Rhino sells with the front bumper are also very adjustable and high quality, so the only hard part was figuring out exactly which of the possible combinations would work best. I decided to try mounting it on top of the hoop which mostly obstructs the front facing camera, but I don't really use it so I'm not too worried. If it becomes an issue, I can always remount it in a different location.

In keeping with an OEM style them, I picked up a Toyota OEM fog light switch from Slee and wired the light bar to it. When the switch is clicked in, the light bar will automatically come on with the high beams, or it will turn off with another click of the switch. The switch is the type where it stays in place wherever you leave it, so if you want high beams to work as normal, you can just leave the switch in the off position. I did a rural drive very late at night recently, and I was impressed with the power and throw of the light bar. It's a very high quality color and even dispersion of the beam pattern, so I am very happy with the purchase.

Straight on and from a low viewpoint you can see the LEDs which make the light bar look yellow

Stedi fan here...
They could easily charge more...and they are constantly selling out of what I’m after. But their prices are reasonable, even with shipping to the US. Products ooze build quality.

 

[mcgaskins]

The stock shift knob had a little bit of wear on the top, so I thought I'd give a TRD Pro shift knob from a 4Runner a try. Swapping took about 30 seconds of just simply unscrewing the old and screwing on the new one, and it works perfectly without contacting the console or rubbing anywhere. I think I've only changed a shift knob on 1 car my whole life because I generally like to leave things like that alone, but I thought the silver exterior color along with the silver accents on the center console and dash would make this knob stand out. I like the way it looks and feels, and the quality is excellent. They can be purchased many places of course, but this is the exact one I bought:

Amazon product ASIN B06XG1FGM6
Before

After

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

The stock shift knob had a little bit of wear on the top, so I thought I'd give a TRD Pro shift knob from a 4Runner a try. Swapping took about 30 seconds of just simply unscrewing the old and screwing on the new one, and it works perfectly without contacting the console or rubbing anywhere. I think I've only changed a shift knob on 1 car my whole life because I generally like to leave things like that alone, but I thought the silver exterior color along with the silver accents on the center console and dash would make this knob stand out. I like the way it looks and feels, and the quality is excellent. They can be purchased many places of course, but this is the exact one I bought:

Amazon product ASIN B06XG1FGM6
Before

After

I really like that shifter and have had one on my Amazon list forever, as my stock one is worn as well (2010) But every time I drop it in my cart I think “ but the silver on the TRD is probably going to wear too”. Has stopped me every time....so far Like the way it looks, will probably go shopping again...

 

[TLC2013]

This looks great. Compliments the interior’s silver nicely. Been on the fence about switching out my poorly aging shifter for the TRD. Thanks for sharing, now my wallet is that much lighter lol.

 

[Tex68w]

I can't believe I just now came across this build thread, but I haven't spent much time in the 200 series subform over the past year since your prior departure. I knew when you sold Ruby that it would only be a matter of time before you were back I just didn't think it would be this soon haha. There simply isn't anything else comparable to the 200 series currently on the market.

We are currently considering selling/trading our LX570 for one of the last 2021 LC's, we need to get serious soon before the deals dry up or the inventory is gone altogether. I love where our GX460 build is going and I plan to keep her around for the foreseeable future, but the space just isn't there for our longer trips and that's why I think we need to get serious about the LC soon.

Glad to see that you're back in the LC fold and in the mountains with a Toyota once again. As always I am looking forward to seeing where this build thread of yours goes from here.

 

[grinchy]

Best time to buy a car is New Year’s Eve, right before the dealership closes.

 

[mcgaskins]

I can't believe I just now came across this build thread, but I haven't spent much time in the 200 series subform over the past year since your prior departure. I knew when you sold Ruby that it would only be a matter of time before you were back I just didn't think it would be this soon haha. There simply isn't anything else comparable to the 200 series currently on the market.

We are currently considering selling/trading our LX570 for one of the last 2021 LC's, we need to get serious soon before the deals dry up or the inventory is gone altogether. I love where our GX460 build is going and I plan to keep her around for the foreseeable future, but the space just isn't there for our longer trips and that's why I think we need to get serious about the LC soon.

Glad to see that you're back in the LC fold and in the mountains with a Toyota once again. As always I am looking forward to seeing where this build thread of yours goes from here.

You're exactly right - there really isn't anything truly comparable on the market. I'm glad to back and have a project to work on. There is a lot more coming very soon actually!

 

[Leelanau]

"In keeping with an OEM style them, I picked up a Toyota OEM fog light switch from Slee and wired the light bar to it. When the switch is clicked in, the light bar will automatically come on with the high beams, or it will turn off with another click of the switch. The switch is the type where it stays in place wherever you leave it, so if you want high beams to work as normal, you can just leave the switch in the off position. I did a rural drive very late at night recently, and I was impressed with the power and throw of the light bar. It's a very high quality color and even dispersion of the beam pattern, so I am very happy with the purchase."

Great build mcgaskins! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I really like this idea of having the option to have the light bar come on/off with the headlight brights. Does your 2013 have the auto bright/dim headlight function? I'm wondering if the extreme brightness of the light bar and the associated reflections from distant road signs would mess with that system and cause the lights to dim frequently when there is no vehicles ahead. I think I might be able to disable the auto lights on my yet to be modified 2020, but it would be ideal if it worked well with a light bar.

The factory headlights are so dim in my 2011 Ford Raptor (no auto lights) that I use my light bar on the road whenever I can get away with it. It is wired separately, so I have to lean a little forward and keep my finger on the switch as I drive so I can quickly switch it off and not blind oncoming traffic. It is so bright that it often obscures oncoming cars approaching lights on the other side of hills, so it is easy to blind someone if you are not really paying attention.