Builds Marion Rising: 1974 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter MadMace
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MadMace
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- #83
All right, time for an update. We have continued to make great progress on Marion. This past weekend was cooling system flush and oil change. Ever since my son could hold a wrench, he has helped me change the oil in our cars. So young was he that the way we came to explain the need for fluid changes in our cars to him was..."It's just like we would change your diapers when they got dirty". Well, it stuck so now my son and I refer to oil changes in our cars as "diaper changes". Marion got her diapers changed this weekend. Seemed okay to use that expression when I was talking about our other vehicles but doesn't seem quite right with an FJ40.
The petcock on Marion's radiator was stuck. I didn't want to torque on in with pliers or wrench so I took an old socket, round file, and filed in 2 grooves for the wings on the petcock to fit in. Then I could use my socket wrench, worked perfectly.
Socket with grooves filed into it to take off radiator petcock
Initially nothing came out of the radiator drain. Stuck this scratch awl up there and it came back coated in the black, tar like crap. After clearing that out, got great flow.
Used the Preston Flush kit. Worked great. This is where I attached the hose inlet. After flushing, I removed it, I did not leave it in place.
Nasty!!!
The petcock on Marion's radiator was stuck. I didn't want to torque on in with pliers or wrench so I took an old socket, round file, and filed in 2 grooves for the wings on the petcock to fit in. Then I could use my socket wrench, worked perfectly.
Socket with grooves filed into it to take off radiator petcock
Initially nothing came out of the radiator drain. Stuck this scratch awl up there and it came back coated in the black, tar like crap. After clearing that out, got great flow.
Used the Preston Flush kit. Worked great. This is where I attached the hose inlet. After flushing, I removed it, I did not leave it in place.
Nasty!!!
MadMace
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- #84
So as we all know, draining coolant from the block can be challenging. When I took off the 14mm brass plug, it weeped a little, but not much. A wire hanger changed that. What really changed flow in that block drain was back flushing through the water outlet from the engine. Vinyl 1 1/4 inch tubing, flattened fit PERFECTLY in that opening to get a good reverse flush--see pictures below as I know describing it is not very clear.
After getting all that flushing done, tested the thermostat in hot water to make sure it opened the right amount at the right temperature--it worked perfectly. My wife was thrilled to find me testing the thermostat in one of her pans on the stove
. Got a new gasket in place--thanks CityRacer!!
Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy flow
1 1/4 inch vinyl hose from the Home Depot flattened out and inserted into the water outlet
Water flowing through
Hefty, Hefty, Hefty flow!! Now that's what I'm talking about!
New gasket. Thermostat cleaned. If you need parts, get in touch with CityRacer--I got my gaskets, as well as many other parts from him. Could not be happier.
After getting all that flushing done, tested the thermostat in hot water to make sure it opened the right amount at the right temperature--it worked perfectly. My wife was thrilled to find me testing the thermostat in one of her pans on the stove
. Got a new gasket in place--thanks CityRacer!!Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy flow
1 1/4 inch vinyl hose from the Home Depot flattened out and inserted into the water outlet
Water flowing through
Hefty, Hefty, Hefty flow!! Now that's what I'm talking about!
New gasket. Thermostat cleaned. If you need parts, get in touch with CityRacer--I got my gaskets, as well as many other parts from him. Could not be happier.
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MadMace
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On to the oil. Never seen an oil filter as large as these--used a Wix filter. The Wix filter was considerably larger than the one we took out. After research, it became clear that just any ol' oil isn't the best for Marion. Decided on Valvoline VR1 Racing oil (high zinc) 20W-50.
Old filter coming out
Size does matter!!
Love this kid's "game-face"
Old filter coming out
Size does matter!!
Love this kid's "game-face"
MadMace
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- Thread starter
- #86
I am in need of some help/advice/direction.
One of the reasons for the coolant flush was that Marion seemed to be running hotter than I think is ideal. On her gauge, she would get up to the 3rd line (the last line before "H"). I used an infrared thermometer and was reading approx 220 on the head btwn the 5th and 6th cylinders. Temp at the top radiator hose approx 210-215.
In the cooling system flush I also did a block flush, got great flow. Tested the thermostat, worked perfectly. My V-Belt was too loose so I tightened that up. The FSM says coolant capacity is 4 gallons. I can only get in 3 1/2 gallons and when she gets up in temp, approx 1 quart ends up in the overflow bottle so at high heat, she is running on 3/4 gallons less than capacity. When she cools down, that coolant is sucked back in.
Marion does not get as hot as quickly but does still reach the 3rd line on the temp gauge, still too high for me to be comfortable with extended driving.
I drove her yesterday and after letting her cool down to the 2nd line on the gauge, I parked her on a steep hill, took off the cap, and let her run to try and "burp" the system--no air left the system as the fluid level did not drop.
So here is my question--what am I missing? Should I try and burp her again starting from a cold engine? Is the radiator something I should go ahead and pull out and have it "rodded out"/cleaned--or maybe upgrade to an OEM Toyota 4 core radiator? What other things can cause a decrease in coolant capacity?
Thanks all, I appreciate any wisdom you can share.
One of the reasons for the coolant flush was that Marion seemed to be running hotter than I think is ideal. On her gauge, she would get up to the 3rd line (the last line before "H"). I used an infrared thermometer and was reading approx 220 on the head btwn the 5th and 6th cylinders. Temp at the top radiator hose approx 210-215.
In the cooling system flush I also did a block flush, got great flow. Tested the thermostat, worked perfectly. My V-Belt was too loose so I tightened that up. The FSM says coolant capacity is 4 gallons. I can only get in 3 1/2 gallons and when she gets up in temp, approx 1 quart ends up in the overflow bottle so at high heat, she is running on 3/4 gallons less than capacity. When she cools down, that coolant is sucked back in.
Marion does not get as hot as quickly but does still reach the 3rd line on the temp gauge, still too high for me to be comfortable with extended driving.
I drove her yesterday and after letting her cool down to the 2nd line on the gauge, I parked her on a steep hill, took off the cap, and let her run to try and "burp" the system--no air left the system as the fluid level did not drop.
So here is my question--what am I missing? Should I try and burp her again starting from a cold engine? Is the radiator something I should go ahead and pull out and have it "rodded out"/cleaned--or maybe upgrade to an OEM Toyota 4 core radiator? What other things can cause a decrease in coolant capacity?
Thanks all, I appreciate any wisdom you can share.
C6H12O6
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I could be that you just didn't get all the flush water drained out before you filled up again. It would explain the fact that you didn't get the full four gallons in there. I usually flush with tap water, drain what I can, then fill and flush with distilled water (maybe a couple times if I'm not getting enough draining out - measure what you drain). When I'm convinced I've got mostly distilled water in the engine, I drain it out, put in half of the total capacity in straight coolant, and just top it off with more distilled water. That way, if you didn't get all the water out when you drain, it isn't diluting your final coolant mixture. Pretty easy way to get close to 50/50 coolant/water mix. Too much water might explain your higher temps.
I also called Toyota and ordered up a new OEM radiator while I could still get one.
I also called Toyota and ordered up a new OEM radiator while I could still get one.
Heater core probably holds a quart Im guessing.
MadMace
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- #89
C6H12O6, thank you very much. Great idea, I didn't even think about retained water in the system when I refilled the system. I mixed it 50/50 then poured it in. I might go ahead and drain and re-flush.
If I reflush, I think I might try the Cascade powder flush trick. I have even read that 1 gallon of vinegar topped off with distilled water, running it to temp and then reflushing can help clean out the water jacket.
Where did you order your radiator from? I am thinking that I might order one as I have read that they might not be around for much longer.
If I reflush, I think I might try the Cascade powder flush trick. I have even read that 1 gallon of vinegar topped off with distilled water, running it to temp and then reflushing can help clean out the water jacket.
Where did you order your radiator from? I am thinking that I might order one as I have read that they might not be around for much longer.
C6H12O6
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I found them cheaper online, but I wanted to be able to see it before I paid. Shipping a fragile part like that creeped me out. I ended up ordering it from my local Toyota dealer. I paid a little extra, but with no shipping and the ability to see it first was worth it to me. Plus, I like my local parts guy, so I try to get stuff from him when the money is close. It's worth asking for a TLCA discount, even if they don't advertise it. My guy finally just put it on my account so it automatically adjusts to a bit over 20%.
C6H12O6
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And, if you have the rear heater, that holds a bunch, too. I bet that's close to your mystery half gallon if you add them up.
MadMace
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- #93
We have continued to work on getting Marion to run cooler. Decided to check her timing after coolant system flushing made little difference. Found this great thread that has helped through the process.
In short, found her timing to be a little advanced. With a timing light, got her set to 7* BTDC. I likely will change it to 10* BTDC as has been recommended by those who know best. She is running cooler now.
Vacuum is only at 13 at idle and a warm engine, so still have a bit of work to do. From reading, I need to do a valve adjustment first, so I need to get some feeler gauges. After that, I'll do more searching for vacuum leaks. Already found and eliminated one. This vacuum line was attached at the manifold vacuum plug (there are two nipples at that plug--one that goes to the dizzy and one that goes to emissions control); this was the one that went to the emissions that had been previously disconnected.
In short, found her timing to be a little advanced. With a timing light, got her set to 7* BTDC. I likely will change it to 10* BTDC as has been recommended by those who know best. She is running cooler now.
Vacuum is only at 13 at idle and a warm engine, so still have a bit of work to do. From reading, I need to do a valve adjustment first, so I need to get some feeler gauges. After that, I'll do more searching for vacuum leaks. Already found and eliminated one. This vacuum line was attached at the manifold vacuum plug (there are two nipples at that plug--one that goes to the dizzy and one that goes to emissions control); this was the one that went to the emissions that had been previously disconnected.
MadMace
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Continued research and reading on getting Marion tuned up led me to the diagram below. Marion is definitely a "1974 California Model" as she has all the emission control system included on the picture below. It is clear that a lot of her vacuum hoses are hooked up incorrectly and the emission control have been disconnected and some removed.
My plan is to cap off all the vacuum lines that went through the VSV. I have capped off the manifold valve, the dissy, and the ports to the diaphragm and EGR port on the carb. The diaphragm on the carb was connected to the EGR port when I obtained Marion.
A question I have is that the check valve on the air injection manifold is not sealed currently--it pulsates bursts of air as the engine runs. Should I seal it? I am also thinking about removing the air injection manifold--what do ya'll think about doing that?
My plan is to cap off all the vacuum lines that went through the VSV. I have capped off the manifold valve, the dissy, and the ports to the diaphragm and EGR port on the carb. The diaphragm on the carb was connected to the EGR port when I obtained Marion.
A question I have is that the check valve on the air injection manifold is not sealed currently--it pulsates bursts of air as the engine runs. Should I seal it? I am also thinking about removing the air injection manifold--what do ya'll think about doing that?
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ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
I removed all that stuff in the desmog process. Simplifies things a bunch. I’m away from the cruiser can post photos tomorrow of what I did. Mine is a 74 as well.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Easy peasy - you might want to spray some PB Blaster on it though. I think mine came out pretty easily but never hurts to address threads. Several different vendors sell plugs I think JimC is one.
MadMace
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- #98
Marion has gotten a lot of attention today--I think my wife is jealous. She came into the garage and said with a wink "Well, at least you didn't leave me for a younger woman" (Marion is 3 months older than her). My wife is a great sport and super supportive, as she always is.
Have done a lot of work in the engine bay today. I have been waiting to get some wire clamps in from CityRacer so I could get the heater back in. Well the post woman came today bearing gifts. Marion got her defroster/heater/vent back today. Heater unit got new foam, so did the duct connecting the fan to the unit. Pipes got new insulation. I was going to repaint the heater unit but I want to keep as much of the patina of her age as I can. After I got it all cleaned up and some wax on it, I was happy I didn't paint it.
Below are some before and after pics.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
After:
Have done a lot of work in the engine bay today. I have been waiting to get some wire clamps in from CityRacer so I could get the heater back in. Well the post woman came today bearing gifts. Marion got her defroster/heater/vent back today. Heater unit got new foam, so did the duct connecting the fan to the unit. Pipes got new insulation. I was going to repaint the heater unit but I want to keep as much of the patina of her age as I can. After I got it all cleaned up and some wax on it, I was happy I didn't paint it.
Below are some before and after pics.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
After:
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Yes, pull that air rail, it's just in the way. 1/4" NPT pipe plugs from the hardware store fit the holes pretty well and are cheap. FJ40Jim has posted the Toyota part number of the correct plugs, from an FJ62, IIRC, they're probably not so cheap.
She looks great! I wish my rust bucket looked that good. Many years of work ahead...
