Build Marion Rising: 1974 FJ40 FST

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After some insight from a fellow Mudder, I got out there with my breaker bar, socket extension, and deep socket and sure enough, I got the roll cage off. Unfortunately, most of the bolts didn't fare well. 1/2 sheared off due to rust, but honestly, I don't care, I'll replace them. I'm just happy to get the cage off so I can get it powder coated.

Those bolts do look stock though as they seem to be tacked down. I have no idea why the original owner would have done that. If anybody knows if there are roll cages with these bolts, let me know.

Thanks thebigredrocker for your help!!
 
We've been working on the FST doors, first was getting off the old, dried weatherstripping. My son loved pulling this stuff out.

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Quick question. We have been doing alot of work to get Marion ready for a deep cleaning--I've pulled out seats, etc. Today, I pulled out the gas tank and found quite a bit of rust under it on the body pan. Fortunately, it's surface rust but I want to protect it better. I have removed the surface rust and have Ospho doing its thing. Question is should I paint the area indicated with Por-15? Any other options to protect it?

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I don't have any cure-all for you when it comes to rusty bolts. But, what i do knot may help some.

First, using a tap and die set and wire brush, find the right threaded die and wire brush and clean as much as possible all the rust from the exposed threads on the end of the bolt. Spray liberally with a penetrating oil. Then use a wrench and work the bolt tighter and looser, just a fraction of a turn to begin with. As the bolt starts to come loose, keep working it back and forth a bit more, and continue to occasionally spray it with penetrating oil. The threads tend to rust clear into the nut, but as you work the bolt back and forth the penetrating oil will tend to seep into the nut. This will usually break the rust loose to the point where you will eventually get to where the threads have been cleaned by the die and wire brush.

This method is not a cure-all as it will not work on every bolt. But, you will get more bolts out than without the cleaning.

Don
 
MadMace said:
Quick question. We have been doing alot of work to get Marion ready for a deep cleaning--I've pulled out seats, etc. Today, I pulled out the gas tank and found quite a bit of rust under it on the body pan. Fortunately, it's surface rust but I want to protect it better. I have removed the surface rust and have Ospho doing its thing. Question is should I paint the area indicated with Por-15? Any other options to protect it?

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I hit that area up on mine with this:

MasterSeriesCT Coating Line Rust Prevention - MasterSeriesCT

Then painted over it with rattlecan freeborn red. Felt good about coating it since it is a low spot where water can accumulate easily and is very inaccessible.

Make sure you use material for the tank pads that doesn’t soak up water. OEM soaked up water and created rust problems.
 
I would shy away from por-15 on that smooth metal.

Nobody’s gonna see under the tank so a FLAPS rattlecan primer & paint would do. Just scuff it and shoot.

Another option: I really like the simplcity, durabilty and the ability to color match with custom mixed cans of “Spraymax 2K epoxy paint”. Basically it’s single stage paint in a rattle can. It is tough stuff, sprays nicely but is a bit more costly. I would guess you’d use a third of a can if you do a few coats. If you have any other spots/parts that need body color green, you could shoot under the tank first and if the color match is acceptable go on with painting more visible parts. I’ve ordered from 66autocolor. They are good people and ship quick. You just give’em the code, make, model, year and they mix it up.
 
Thanks ginmtb and the bigredrocker. I am going to use both of your suggestions. I do have some mild pitting so I am going to use the MasterSeries Rust Primer/Sealer and then follow up with the 2K paint in the Rustic Green. bigredraocker, thanks for the 66autocolor lead. I would like for it to retain the factory color,as much as possible. I know nobody will see it but I will like it more in it's stock color.
 
I used fiberglass cloth under the gas tank, literally 25 years ago. Covered pin holes in tank with jb weld, after talking to the company, and fiberglassed over that also. It has all held for a tough quarter century.
I know some hate fiberglass, your milage may vary.
 
Life's small victories...

Marion's parking brake light was not working properly...it would flicker when moving the parking brake but would not stay on. I've been cleaning under the dash and saw the wires from the switch to the harness. I read a post by the thebigredrocker in another thread about opening up the switches by lifting the tabs and cleaning them out.

Well, with thebigredrocker's awesome insight and some contact cleaner, DeOxit D5, and reattachment and adjustment, light is now functioning normally.

Mondays usually suck--this one, not too bad. Thanks thebigredrocker.

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Clean up continues on Marion. I was able to get the lower dash pads off without breaking off any of the pins. Kroil continues to work wonders in freeing up rusty screws/bolts/pins. A little Kroil at each pin, some rocking of the pad while gently pulling the pad out worked like a charm. After the lower dash pads came off, then it was on to removing the dash pad. The dash pad had drill holes in it where the original owner had secured shotgun racks so I am going to replace it with a new one. Oh my, the wonders that I found when I got that dash pad off--here's a hint--look at the hole where the wire for the dash light passes through the cowl panel.

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Now this pull tab was pretty cool. Have not seen one of these in decades. And yes, it was in all the debris that was trapped behind the dash pad.
 
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Finding that mummified mouse was pretty bizarre. I tried to remove it all in one piece but when I pulled it out the head broke off behind the cowl panel. I was not looking forward to that suddenly dropping out when I started to remove the switches for cleaning. Sure enough, when I took the hazard switch out there drops the mummified head onto the transmission. Pretty gross, I'll spare you the pictures. She is cleaning up pretty well.

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Got the switches out. Opened them up, fully cleaned them out. DeOxit D5 is incredible stuff. It is to electronic switchs/connections what Kroil is to rusty bolts. After cleaning them out, reassembled them with a little dielectric grease and they were working smoothly. If you are going to remove/clean switches, I would STRONGLY recommend DeOxit D5. Yes, it is expensive but it is worth it. It works great at the connectors. Marion's hazard lights were not working exactly right but some Deoxit D5 on the connectors and the hazards work as good as new.

Also cleaned off all the nasty grease and dirt that was on the transmission. I posted some pictures earlier of that greasy mess. Started with a good soaking of Simple Green then broke out the steam cleaner. Also did some light power washing in areas. Interestingly, I found some numbers spray painted in yellow on the side of the transmission; looks like "FL 70". Can somebody tell me what that means/indicates.

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Today also included cleaning out all the dirt Marion has collected in her frame over the last 40 year. Now that was a dirty job--Mike Rowe from the Discovery Channel would have been proud. Fortunately it was a warm, sunny day here today in central Texas. I attached one of those jet stream attachments to the end of my garden hose and went to town. I was a wet, muddy mess by the time it was all said and done. And clearly a pecan loving creature had called the frame rails home at one time. After washing the frame out I made sure I got all the water out of the low spot in the frame so it wouldn't just sit there.
 
Other than the part about your JJJJJeep, good story and I like the pictures of your progress.
You are about a year younger than my son. He was almost two years old when I bought my 1970 FJ40.
He practically grew up sitting in the back of that rig.
He tells me his most prominent memory is when off roading, was every time we came up over the top of a hill, from his vantage point all he could see was sky and each time he was sure we had finally come to the edge of the world.
My FJ40 was my first 4X4. Had a couple other models that came and went but hung onto the 40.
My you have as many enjoyable years in your Land Cruiser as I have had in mine.
 
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