Mag's poor man 1HD-FTE dream. (6 Viewers)

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My trouble comes when I get pulled out of town for work. Instantly derails the project, and then I have to get back into it, refresh my memory on what choices I was making and why, question every single one of them, so on... If I could just figure out how to get paid to work on my own projects, I'd be so productive. 😆
 
My trouble comes when I get pulled out of town for work. Instantly derails the project, and then I have to get back into it, refresh my memory on what choices I was making and why, question every single one of them, so on... If I could just figure out how to get paid to work on my own projects, I'd be so productive. 😆
Oh yeah that's another challenge all together. My documentation would never be good enough for that lol.
 
Lookinf at the length differences, 100 series on the outside, 80 on the inside, speculated about trying to use them. Rear 100 is longer, front 100 is shorter, which is what id need for the manual swap.

then I looked at the u-joint size difference on the rear shaft. 80 shaft is noticeably larger.

Tom Woods is probably my route, but I wanted to share just because.
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All fluids are drained

Engine is ready to pull, only thing holding it up are four bolts holding the transmission/transfercase crossmember.

Ill take those out when I have a jack under it and we're actively pulling it out.

Maybe tonight.
 
Lookinf at the length differences, 100 series on the outside, 80 on the inside, speculated about trying to use them. Rear 100 is longer, front 100 is shorter, which is what id need for the manual swap.

then I looked at the u-joint size difference on the rear shaft. 80 shaft is noticeably larger.

Tom Woods is probably my route, but I wanted to share just because.
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the 80 shafts can be either shortened or retubed longer pretty easy and cheaply by a driveshaft shop. the 100 shafts can't without a bunch of extra machine work because they're fused, not welded. nothing against tom woods but reworked OEM would be my pick.
 
the 80 shafts can be either shortened or retubed longer pretty easy and cheaply by a driveshaft shop. the 100 shafts can't without a bunch of extra machine work because they're fused, not welded. nothing against tom woods but reworked OEM would be my pick.
Ill call around to some local shops, there's a few in Denver.
 
Yeah it does look good but it's so nice working on all that stuff when you're not in a crowded engine bay. I'd say do it all now and be good for 100K miles
 
As someone who wear steel toed boots much of the time, I'm pretty bad about wearing sandals whenever I'm not being paid, so no judgement here. You do tend to get funny looks from people, using a cutting torch in shorts and sandals though :rofl:
 
As someone who wear steel toed boots much of the time, I'm pretty bad about wearing sandals whenever I'm not being paid, so no judgement here. You do tend to get funny looks from people, using a cutting torch in shorts and sandals though :rofl:
Haha, I only had a few hot peices of metal hit my feet from the cut off wheel action. 🤣🤣
 

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