LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement (12 Viewers)

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I replaced what I assume were my original globes at 183k. I had a problem getting them unthreaded at first too. A large breaker bar is key.

For me, I noticed no difference after I replaced the globes. But I did change the AHC fluid twice since my ownership began around 90k.

Perhaps my old globes were still good? Regardless, they're changed now.
 
I replaced my accumulators using the guiadance from this threat and it went well. Had to drill a whole in one, but otherwise a smooth job. After two bleed cycles and drives around the block, my pump started to whine and stopped pumping fluid into the system. I have bled out pretty much all remaining fluid hoping it was and air bubble or the possible clog would clear but no luck. I am currently stuck, considering a trip to the dealer
 
jflow88 said:
I replaced my accumulators using the guiadance from this threat and it went well. Had to drill a whole in one, but otherwise a smooth job. After two bleed cycles and drives around the block, my pump started to whine and stopped pumping fluid into the system. I have bled out pretty much all remaining fluid hoping it was and air bubble or the possible clog would clear but no luck. I am currently stuck, considering a trip to the dealer
Click to expand...
Sounds like the pump is clogged or lost prime.
There are a few threads taking about how to address both. To unclog you’ll have to pull the pump assembly and do som bench work.
 
grinchy said:
Sounds like the pump is clogged or lost prime.
There are a few threads taking about how to address both. To unclog you’ll have to pull the pump assembly and do som bench work.
Click to expand...
thanks!
 
Last edited:
NKP Garage said:
are you sure the pump didnt run dry during the process?
Click to expand...
Not 100%. It came close, but everything worked for a few drives and then it went wrong. I am thinking the contaminates had time to make their way in, or air bubble, I am half way through removing the pump unless their is another procedure I should try to restore prime 1st
 
Do you have an AHC error? Did you try flicking the H button continuously at startup?
 
paulunm said:
Do you have an AHC error? Did you try flicking the H button continuously at startup?
Click to expand...
Yes, abnormal pressure at pump. I would clear it and the pump would whine and trigger the code again. I tried more bleeding and letting the pump run, each time the system worked less and less down to nothing.
 
jflow88 said:
Not 100%. It came close, but everything worked for a few drives and then it went wrong. I am thinking the contaminates had time to make their way in, or air bubble, I am half way through removing the pump unless their is another procedure I should try to restore prime 1st
Click to expand...
If you think it might have run dry, best thing to do is fill it up and bleed again. But if you think its contaminants then you probably need to pull the pump.
 
Hi,

For anyone curious what the system looks like out of the vehicle, here it is!

While I was ripping it all out, several things went through my head, including how nicely engineered it all was in the vehicle, but also how complex it is, and also how I could not see how one would do a successful flush without major disassembly.

Not pictured are the under sill protective guards or ecu.

Greg.

C8AF927F-0DF6-44D2-93B8-A2CA0FB7DD75.jpeg
 
hdj105 said:
Hi,

For anyone curious what the system looks like out of the vehicle, here it is!

While I was ripping it all out, several things went through my head, including how nicely engineered it all was in the vehicle, but also how complex it is, and also how I could not see how one would do a successful flush without major disassembly.

Not pictured are the under sill protective guards or ecu.

Greg.

View attachment 3419382
Click to expand...
I flush until clean AHC fluid is observed from the bleeds. What else are you considering?
 
hdj105 said:
Hi,

For anyone curious what the system looks like out of the vehicle, here it is!

While I was ripping it all out, several things went through my head, including how nicely engineered it all was in the vehicle, but also how complex it is, and also how I could not see how one would do a successful flush without major disassembly.

Not pictured are the under sill protective guards or ecu.

Greg.

View attachment 3419382
Click to expand...
It certainly is more complex than a traditional suspension. But it does more than a traditional suspension.
 
Did mine today. Very easy and took about 3 hours, really taking my time to double check everything. Here was my procedure, derived from this thread. Thanks for all the expertise!

  1. Remove both sets of metal guards protecting AHC globes (6 - 12mm bolts on each side)
  2. Remove cover in passenger rear wheel well to access AHC revision
  3. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
  4. Put LX570 into LOW height.
  5. Bleed passenger front bleed valve & re-tighten
  6. Bleed passenger rear bleed valve & re-tighten
  7. Remove passenger front accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb) - Note: I did NOT use the backup washer/spacer. I had them but didn't install them as it appears the new accumulators (bought in 2023) have a taller metal flange that the back-up washer/spacer filled in the 2008 accumulator. When I measured the old accumulator flange + spacer it was 6mm. The new accumulator was 6mm without the spacer, meaning the "built in" the spacer sometime between 2008-2021.
  8. Remove passenger rear accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
  9. Start LX570 and toggle NEUTRAL height (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
  10. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
  11. Time for driver side - Put LX570 back to LOW height
  12. Bleed driver front bleed vale & re-tighten
  13. Bleed passenger rear bleed value & re-tighten
  14. Remove driver front accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
  15. Remove driver rear accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
  16. Start LX570 and toggle NEUTRAL height (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
  17. Time for bleed procedure - While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
  18. Bleed passenger front
  19. Bleed passenger rear
  20. Start LX570 and allow it to raise passenger side (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
  21. Once in NEUTRAL, go back to LOW, then back to NEUTRAL, then HIGH, then NEUTRAL for good measure to do at least one cycle
  22. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
  23. Bleed driver front
  24. Bleed driver rear
  25. Start LX570 and allow it to raise driver side (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
  26. Once in NEUTRAL, go back to LOW, then back to NEUTRAL, then HIGH, then NEUTRAL for good measure to do at least one cycle
  27. Check final level - While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid to MAX fill line or slightly above (There is plenty of room in the tank and I rarely go into LOW mode, so I went above the MAX)
 
04UZJ100 said:
I flush until clean AHC fluid is observed from the bleeds. What else are you considering?
Click to expand...
My main thought it the length of some of the lines, particularly those going to each shock, with them being a dead end with no bleeder. As opposed to say brake calipers with the bleed at the destination.

Obviously any flush is better than none.
 
Just noticed you are in Australia, was going to offer to send you a shipping label to dispose of all those spare parts.
 
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