LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement (11 Viewers)

[lx200inAR]

Worth noting that that process you described worked, but a couple of little differences.

My dash never showed it was going into high it just suddenly showed high and then started going into high very slowly.

My AHC seem to be stuck in the off position but didn’t show off until I restarted. Once I did I could see the “off” and let me turn it back on, then the system let me go into high.

I’m still troubleshooting a little bit. I can’t switch back into normal height with the control, but if I drive 20 miles an hour it’ll automatically go back to normal. So at least that functions. Also keep getting an error on my dash.

I’m kind of tempted to bleed the system some more but I’m afraid if I bleed it and goes into low I may not be able to get it back to normal again.

Weird stuff.

Wonder if there is something wrong with your switch now. Wouldn’t hurt to verify functionality with Techstream. When you slow down, come to a stop does it go back into high?

 

[trudd]

When I swapped globes on my second LX, I left the truck on while bleeding.

When idling, with AHC in Normal height mode...

• Press "OFF" Switch to turn off AHC
• Bleed one corner
• Press "OFF" switch again to turn AHC on
• The bled corner will re-pressurize and return to Normal height

Keeping the car on avoided any AHC computer freakout. First time I did it, I bled all globes at once in Normal mode and had to keep fiddling with the switch at startup. A true pucker up moment.

 

[eXpLoreLX]

When I swapped globes on my second LX, I left the truck on while bleeding.

When idling, with AHC in Normal height mode...

• Press "OFF" Switch to turn off AHC
• Bleed one corner
• Press "OFF" switch again to turn AHC on
• The bled corner will re-pressurize and return to Normal height

Keeping the car on avoided any AHC computer freakout. First time I did it, I bled all globes at once in Normal mode and had to keep fiddling with the switch at startup. A true pucker up moment.

I haven't put the globe steel protector back on so I might try bleeding the system just a bit more before I do (just makes it easier ya know).

But I hadn't thought of this, seem like a pretty good plan/method to bleed.

On a different note, does anyone know the Torque specs for the globes? They remove pretty easily so I assume they also shouldn't be tightened to touch either.

 

[trudd]

I haven't put the globe steel protector back on so I might try bleeding the system just a bit more before I do (just makes it easier ya know).

But I hadn't thought of this, seem like a pretty good plan/method to bleed.

On a different note, does anyone know the Torque specs for the globes? They remove pretty easily so I assume they also shouldn't be tightened to touch either.

Pretty sure it’s 110ft/lb. My torque wrench stops at 100 so I just give it an additional ugga by hand

 

[bloc]

Technically 111ft-lbf but find me a wrench that can tell that from 110.

 

[bloc]

Note that trying to torque them while the system is pressurized won’t get you very far.

Edit: and risks tearing up the o-ring.

 

[krice118]

a lot of talk about swapping and help with issues.

Can those of you who have changed gloves provide feedback on ride? Trying to determine if it’s worth it or kick the can down the road….

Mine is kinda like pogo….

What is the ride like with fresh globes and fluid?

2013 with 150k miles

 

[nwfl4runner]

a lot of talk about swapping and help with issues.

Can those of you who have changed gloves provide feedback on ride? Trying to determine if it’s worth it or kick the can down the road….

Mine is kinda like pogo….

What is the ride like with fresh globes and fluid?

2013 with 150k miles

I noticed a significant difference at 150k - especially since I added a bumper/winch up front before swapping - eliminated the pogo

 

[highfructose]

a lot of talk about swapping and help with issues.

Can those of you who have changed gloves provide feedback on ride? Trying to determine if it’s worth it or kick the can down the road….

Mine is kinda like pogo….

What is the ride like with fresh globes and fluid?

2013 with 150k miles

Replace every 10 years is my new standard protocol…I would def do it again. These globes seem to degrade over time, gas seems to leak past the membrane. They seem to be wear items, like brakes.

 

[PDoyle]

Rig is currently around 180k miles on the clock. I bled the system and installed new globes hoping for a better ride and to feel the difference when switching between sport to comfort and quite honestly didn't feel much of a difference. There is a threat where somone changed out the cylindrical accumulators here

Cylindrical Accumulator Replacement

Hello, Has anybody replaced the cylindrical accumulator part number 49147-60010 (front) on a LX570? I own a 2011 with 200k on the clock. I replaced the ACH fluid and spherical accumulators on it to help with the harsh ride. It was improved, but still doesn’t feel like it should. I’ve read...

forum.ih8mud.com

But I'm not convinced the shocks or "vessels" work past 100k miles. Even if they don't show signs of leakage. Just my 02.

 

[krice118]

I noticed a significant difference at 150k - especially since I added a bumper/winch up front before swapping - eliminated the pogo

Thanks for the update!

I too have front bumper. Thinking about the oem spacer up front?

 

[krice118]

Replace every 10 years is my new standard protocol…I would def do it again. These globes seem to degrade over time, gas seems to leak past the membrane. They seem to be wear items, like brakes.

Thanks. I assume drives better? I’ve never driven a new LX- not sure how they’re supposed to ride.

 

[nwfl4runner]

Thanks for the update!

I too have front bumper. Thinking about the oem spacer up front?

Yup, have that as well, absolutely worth doing while you’ve got the system bled to replace the globes!

 

[casper9292]

Not sure. I've put a little over 20k miles on the truck, and I changed the fluid about 10k miles ago. The truck has about 181k miles on it right now.

Definitely a noticable difference. On bumpy highways I can really tell the difference. And it doesn't "bounce" as much anymore over large humps in the road. Definitely worth the replacement.

Did mine today. Very easy and took about 3 hours, really taking my time to double check everything. Here was my procedure, derived from this thread. Thanks for all the expertise!

1. Remove both sets of metal guards protecting AHC globes (6 - 12mm bolts on each side)
2. Remove cover in passenger rear wheel well to access AHC revision
3. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
4. Put LX570 into LOW height.
5. Bleed passenger front bleed valve & re-tighten
6. Bleed passenger rear bleed valve & re-tighten
7. Remove passenger front accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb) - Note: I did NOT use the backup washer/spacer. I had them but didn't install them as it appears the new accumulators (bought in 2023) have a taller metal flange that the back-up washer/spacer filled in the 2008 accumulator. When I measured the old accumulator flange + spacer it was 6mm. The new accumulator was 6mm without the spacer, meaning the "built in" the spacer sometime between 2008-2021.
8. Remove passenger rear accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
9. Start LX570 and toggle NEUTRAL height (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
10. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
11. Time for driver side - Put LX570 back to LOW height
12. Bleed driver front bleed vale & re-tighten
13. Bleed passenger rear bleed value & re-tighten
14. Remove driver front accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
15. Remove driver rear accumulator & reinstall new accumulator (Torque: 111-ft/lb)
16. Start LX570 and toggle NEUTRAL height (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
17. Time for bleed procedure - While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
18. Bleed passenger front
19. Bleed passenger rear
20. Start LX570 and allow it to raise passenger side (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
21. Once in NEUTRAL, go back to LOW, then back to NEUTRAL, then HIGH, then NEUTRAL for good measure to do at least one cycle
22. While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid slightly above the MAX fill line (I filled to the seam in the AHC tank. Intentionally want more in the tank for bleeding procedure)
23. Bleed driver front
24. Bleed driver rear
25. Start LX570 and allow it to raise driver side (I reversed out of my garage 20 ft, then forward 20ft, and so on until all level)
26. Once in NEUTRAL, go back to LOW, then back to NEUTRAL, then HIGH, then NEUTRAL for good measure to do at least one cycle
27. Check final level - While LX570 is in NEUTRAL height, add AHC fluid to MAX fill line or slightly above (There is plenty of room in the tank and I rarely go into LOW mode, so I went above the MAX)

Doing mine now thanks for the write up. I will def follow this. I always thought that I had to add fluid into the accumulator prior to putting it in, but I don’t think I do. Lol. Thanks

 

[JR YORK]

a lot of talk about swapping and help with issues.

Can those of you who have changed gloves provide feedback on ride? Trying to determine if it’s worth it or kick the can down the road….

Mine is kinda like pogo….

What is the ride like with fresh globes and fluid?

2013 with 150k miles

Swapped my accumulator globes out at 89,000 miles on a 2015. Noticeable improvement in ride quality. Less bouncy. Much better over transitions and harder hits.
You can order new globes for $400 on ebay - ship from Japan, Toyota parts. AHC fluid is about $100+/-. You will need two of the 2.5L cans of fluid. Takes a few hrs and some patience bleeding the valves before/after each swap.

 

[JR YORK]

When I swapped globes on my second LX, I left the truck on while bleeding.

When idling, with AHC in Normal height mode...

• Press "OFF" Switch to turn off AHC
• Bleed one corner
• Press "OFF" switch again to turn AHC on
• The bled corner will re-pressurize and return to Normal height

Keeping the car on avoided any AHC computer freakout. First time I did it, I bled all globes at once in Normal mode and had to keep fiddling with the switch at startup. A true pucker up moment.

That's a great idea. I've been in the same position when i did a globe swap. Mine freaked out a bit (light came on) and I had to toggle up/down many times. I turned vehicle off/on several times and took it for a drive before everything finally normalized.
Makes sense to just keep it running - I will take your advice when I bleed them again shortly. The on/off AHC toggle also seems very intuitive during the process. I appreciate the insight.

 

[JR YORK]

Doing mine now thanks for the write up. I will def follow this. I always thought that I had to add fluid into the accumulator prior to putting it in, but I don’t think I do. Lol. Thanks

It was my understanding you are to start with the globe furthest from the pump - front driver side. Followed by rear driver side globe. Not sure if it makes that big of a difference over starting on passenger side? Having said that, seems more intuitive in terms of fluid dynamics to work from the furthest point from pump as to not allow for a vacuum lock scenario in the middle of system. Pump is right below the fill tank on the rear passenger side.
I'm no expert, but I did watch a lot of YouTube videos first. There seems to be a lot of variation with globe install in terms of vehicle on or off. Some restart LX after each globe is installed. Others just bleed before/after and start after all 4 are in place. I find a few people (like me) getting caught up at the end and have to toggle high/low while restarting LX over and over to get the light to come off. I found driving mine after install helped get things moving again. Some people are more detail oriented while others seem to get lucky. Best of luck.

 

[JR YORK]

11

Here's an update of where I'm at with my AHC repair job. I posted this in a few other threads as well.

I spent 4hrs in the garage last night, wrestling with this line that needs replaced, and it will not budge! The connectors on both ends of the line that needs replaced, are so seized on. But it's not just line.

After removing the plates from the Slee rock sliders, and actually being able inspect the accumulators, and bleeding valves, and being able to climb under the rear to work on the busted line, it's blanantly obvious that $6k-$7,500 was not spent replacing anything on this suspension system. Everything suspension wise is rusted! The rear passenger side shock, has a hole in the top of the shock.

I've pretty much accepted that I'm going to have to convert my LX570 to traditional suspension. This isn't how I wanted things to play out, but it is what it is.

Plus, the local Lexus dealership quoted me 8.5hrs of labor for replacing the line, and 4hrs to fill and bleed the system. I was told to be prepared to spend at a minimum around $2k to replace the line, and around another $400 for them to bleed the system. They also told me, that if my bleeder valves and accumulators look bad, or are rusty, then they will pass on the work. Here's a few pics of my accumulators.

View attachment 3559311

View attachment 3559312

View attachment 3559313

View attachment 3559314

Do yourself a solid and spend a day working on rust prevention. Scrape that down and spray some fluid film. I think in your position going with traditional shocks and AHC delete makes sense. I love the AHC, but you would be chasing demons with a lot of cash by the looks of it.
Let us know how it rides with the LC shock/spring setup. Kind of curious.

 

[krice118]

Update after about 100 miles on new globes/ fluid- 20x better can’t believe I waited so long. Ride is much smoother and compliant. No more feeing like a “bobble head”

Comfort mode on the highway felt like I had super tall and soft springs - floating every which way

Sport would just hammer you bad.

Normal was a miz

Comfortnow has more control and some up bumps with ease.

Parts$430
Labor ~$600
2013
165k miles

 

[NKP Garage]

Update after about 100 miles on new globes/ fluid- 20x better can’t believe I waited so long. Ride is much smoother and compliant. No more feeing like a “bobble head”

Comfort mode on the highway felt like I had super tall and soft springs - floating every which way

Sport would just hammer you bad.

Normal was a miz

Comfortnow has more control and some up bumps with ease.

Parts$430
Labor ~$600
2013
165k miles

Nice work! Love hearing these success stories!