I flushed the system, each corner 2 times and took about 1 and a half of the 2/5L cans
LX570 AHC Globe/Accumulator Replacement
- Thread starter NKP Garage
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I replaced all four shocks, four suspension control accumulators (globes), and the two rear suspension control accumulator no.3s (cylinders--they were rusted... and expensive). The whole job with bleeds took exactly 7.5L of AHC fluid.
How is the difference in drive quality? Replacing just the four globes and AHC fluid was a pretty big difference for me. Haven't messed with shocks yet.
Did you mean 4 accumulator globes for each corner and the 5th globe in the center that is responsible for height up/down?
Maybe he means the actuators that connect to each cylinder?
From front to back you have five accumulators on the outside of the frame. The 1) FRONT NO. 1 SUSPENSION CONTROL ACCUMULATOR, 2) FRONT NO. 2 SUSPENSION CONTROL ACCUMULATOR, 3) FRONT SUSPENSION CONTROL ACCUMULATOR, 4) REAR NO. 3 SUSPENSION CONTROL ACCUMULATOR, and 5) REAR SUSPENSION CONTROL ACCUMULATOR. #3 and 5 are the ones we affectionately refer to as "Globes". The cylinders I replaced were #4 on both sides. It's the only cylinder attached to the same control valve assembly as a globe.
Ride is definately more controled over chattery high-speed bumps. The difference in general is subtle but noticeably smoother. Seems to be a little more distinguishable feel between my drive modes. I went from 32.6" to 34" tires the day after the upgrade, so that kind of rolled back the improvements before I could really get a feel across the spectrum.
I wouldn't expect new shocks to make a difference in ride quality unless your old ones where noticeably shot. I didn't have any leaks, but had impact damage on the base of a rear and both rears where rusting, so I opted to replace all four while I was doing an AHC globe and fluid refresh (it'll be another 3-5 years before my next one)
Ride is definately more controled over chattery high-speed bumps. The difference in general is subtle but noticeably smoother. Seems to be a little more distinguishable feel between my drive modes. I went from 32.6" to 34" tires the day after the upgrade, so that kind of rolled back the improvements before I could really get a feel across the spectrum.
I wouldn't expect new shocks to make a difference in ride quality unless your old ones where noticeably shot. I didn't have any leaks, but had impact damage on the base of a rear and both rears where rusting, so I opted to replace all four while I was doing an AHC globe and fluid refresh (it'll be another 3-5 years before my next one)
I just performed the globe replacement today, on my 2013 LX with 130K miles, it was a relatively easy job. I noticed my truck was very bouncy and there was almost no dampening anymore.
I followed the video on page one of this thread, basically bleed driver front, rear, front again, rear again, replace globes. I have no issues getting the accumulators off (thankfully) My buddy who is MUCH more knowledgable and mechanically inclined helped. We had no issues using a breaker bar.
NOTE: If you have Slee sliders with the AHC protection (I do) budget some extra time to get the protector plates off. They are super solid but not easy to remove, bolts are in awkward position so you will need some flex extensions to get to some of the bolts.
Also, ensure you bleed the accumulators well, the rear seem to hold more fluid. We didn't bleed the driver rear well and ended spraying fluid all over, PIA but no damage done. Just extras time to clean up.
I did get the "check 4 wheel AHC system" system when I started the car after bleeding and replacement, but restarting it 3 or 4 times cleared the error and the pump kicked in.
Even with a good light we found it super difficult to get a good reading on the fluid level in the reservoir.
After bleeding and changing all 4 we checked the fluid level and took it for a drive. Came back, added fluid, bled all 4 corners again, took it for another spin around he block, checked the fluid level and bled all 4 corners again. Very little air in the system which was good. I didn't do a flush because my pump failed about 12k miles ago (replaced it and all the fluid) and fluid coming out looked brand new.
Get a short/stubby 10mm for the rear accumulators, it will things MUCH easier.
The ride difference is huge, no more thumping over road irregularities, no more bouncing and crashing over broken pavement. I would say it took the 2 of us around 2.5 hours (minus clean up and getting the Slee AHC protectors on/off)
I was initially intimidated to do this but it is really not bad at all. Like bleeding brakes with a few extra steps. If you are thinking about doing it or have a bouncy ride/lack of dampening you should def. proceed.
I had two 2.5L cans of fluid (in case we needed to flush) but we didn't use much. I can't tell you exactly how much we used because we used a hose to big the first time we tried to fill the reservoir and ended spilling a bunch of fluid. I think we ended up taking out around 40 oz during all the bleeds (would have been more had we bled the driver rear properly)
I now feel confident to change/flush the system myself in 60k miles.
I followed the video on page one of this thread, basically bleed driver front, rear, front again, rear again, replace globes. I have no issues getting the accumulators off (thankfully) My buddy who is MUCH more knowledgable and mechanically inclined helped. We had no issues using a breaker bar.
NOTE: If you have Slee sliders with the AHC protection (I do) budget some extra time to get the protector plates off. They are super solid but not easy to remove, bolts are in awkward position so you will need some flex extensions to get to some of the bolts.
Also, ensure you bleed the accumulators well, the rear seem to hold more fluid. We didn't bleed the driver rear well and ended spraying fluid all over, PIA but no damage done. Just extras time to clean up.
I did get the "check 4 wheel AHC system" system when I started the car after bleeding and replacement, but restarting it 3 or 4 times cleared the error and the pump kicked in.
Even with a good light we found it super difficult to get a good reading on the fluid level in the reservoir.
After bleeding and changing all 4 we checked the fluid level and took it for a drive. Came back, added fluid, bled all 4 corners again, took it for another spin around he block, checked the fluid level and bled all 4 corners again. Very little air in the system which was good. I didn't do a flush because my pump failed about 12k miles ago (replaced it and all the fluid) and fluid coming out looked brand new.
Get a short/stubby 10mm for the rear accumulators, it will things MUCH easier.
The ride difference is huge, no more thumping over road irregularities, no more bouncing and crashing over broken pavement. I would say it took the 2 of us around 2.5 hours (minus clean up and getting the Slee AHC protectors on/off)
I was initially intimidated to do this but it is really not bad at all. Like bleeding brakes with a few extra steps. If you are thinking about doing it or have a bouncy ride/lack of dampening you should def. proceed.
I had two 2.5L cans of fluid (in case we needed to flush) but we didn't use much. I can't tell you exactly how much we used because we used a hose to big the first time we tried to fill the reservoir and ended spilling a bunch of fluid. I think we ended up taking out around 40 oz during all the bleeds (would have been more had we bled the driver rear properly)
I now feel confident to change/flush the system myself in 60k miles.
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Well done. I had the same/similar experience and agree with your outcome.
Enjoy that new ride!
Shoot me.
I took the rails off yesterday, started on the globes this morning. The 4 came in a box labeled with what we are looking for, the part numbers mentioned.
I open the box and there are zero markings on the 4 small boxes or globes, wrapping, etc.
the only difference is I can see the stamp on the globes, 2 are 3005, and 2 are 3006.
F/R? There is no weight difference (maybe 10-20gms) and no other marking
Help?
I took the rails off yesterday, started on the globes this morning. The 4 came in a box labeled with what we are looking for, the part numbers mentioned.
I open the box and there are zero markings on the 4 small boxes or globes, wrapping, etc.
the only difference is I can see the stamp on the globes, 2 are 3005, and 2 are 3006.
F/R? There is no weight difference (maybe 10-20gms) and no other marking
Help?
Spec on Amazon does not say they are specific, says compatible with the part numbers, so I am initially thinking that my four have no necessity to be front or rear specific.
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues
So, recently my AHC pump broke leaking all the fluid in one go, and my local Lexus dealer gave me a huge quote for the pump replacement. I decided to buy the pump assembly and AHC fluids off ebay and have my local mechanic replace it to save on costs, as I'm not handy with car repairs myself. My...
forum.ih8mud.com
Look at post 813
Mine were marked on the box with the part numbers (49141-60020 Front and 49151-60020 Rear) I didn't look at the globes for the PN.
When take the first side off compare the old F/R to the new globes, I believe there is a slight size difference.
But they do have specific Toyota part numbers for front and rear. 49141-60020 Front and 49151-60020 Rear
They are the same volume but charged to different pressures. Need to put them in the right places. Although, I assume the truck won’t explode if you do it wrong.
Post in thread 'LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues'
LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-ahc-basics-added-as-sticky-thread-for-ahc-issues.1053154/post-15642747
Post in thread 'LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues'
LX570 AHC “Basics” - Added as sticky thread for AHC Issues - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-ahc-basics-added-as-sticky-thread-for-ahc-issues.1053154/post-15642747
There is actually a different pressure rating stamped on the globes. I believe the higher pressure is for the front. It’s mentioned elsewhere here by me and also some others earlier on.
What’s crazy is that the individual globes don’t have the p/n on them. The stamped pressure rating is hard to see if you aren’t looking for it.
dubyahard
SILVER Star
Figured this might be a good place for this question.
My truck doesn't always auto-kneel when it is in auto-kneel mode. It's sort of sporadic with no pattern. Could globes have something to do with it? I'm on my original ones (I think) at about 220k. My ride isn't bouncy as others describe here so I don't know that they are necessarily bad.
My truck doesn't always auto-kneel when it is in auto-kneel mode. It's sort of sporadic with no pattern. Could globes have something to do with it? I'm on my original ones (I think) at about 220k. My ride isn't bouncy as others describe here so I don't know that they are necessarily bad.
iMHO you would know by ride that your 16 year old globes were original, so they are probably replaced . . . I noticed it in the ability to damp, example - a bounce kept on bouncing, and the ability to 'feel' a difference between the ride modes.
As to the auto-kneel not working, that sounds like a door sensor maybe . . . if the conditions to kneel are met, it should kneel 100% of the time.
- Thread starter
- #618
Auto kneel works when you come to a stop and put the vehicle in park, and let your foot off of the brake pedal. Turn the ignition off. If anyone in the vehicle opens a door or pulls on any of the door handles auto kneel will stop for safety and will not kneel.
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In mine, you also have to turn the ignition off.
dubyahard
SILVER Star
Right. I know and do these things. But even when I do, it doesn't always kneel.
