I flushed the system, each corner 2 times and took about 1 and a half of the 2/5L cans
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How is the difference in drive quality? Replacing just the four globes and AHC fluid was a pretty big difference for me. Haven't messed with shocks yet.I replaced all four shocks, four suspension control accumulators (globes), and the two rear suspension control accumulator no.3s (cylinders--they were rusted... and expensive). The whole job with bleeds took exactly 7.5L of AHC fluid.
Maybe he means the actuators that connect to each cylinder?How is the difference in drive quality? Replacing just the four globes and AHC fluid was a pretty big difference for me. Haven't messed with shocks yet.
Did you mean 4 accumulator globes for each corner and the 5th globe in the center that is responsible for height up/down?
Well done. I had the same/similar experience and agree with your outcome.I just performed the globe replacement today, on my 2013 LX with 130K miles, it was a relatively easy job. I noticed my truck was very bouncy and there was almost no dampening anymore.
I followed the video on page one of this thread, basically bleed driver front, rear, front again, rear again, replace globes. I have no issues getting the accumulators off (thankfully) My buddy who is MUCH more knowledgable and mechanically inclined helped. We had no issues using a breaker bar.
NOTE: If you have Slee sliders with the AHC protection (I do) budget some extra time to get the protector plates off. They are super solid but not easy to remove, bolts are in awkward position so you will need some flex extensions to get to some of the bolts.
Also, ensure you bleed the accumulators well, the rear seem to hold more fluid. We didn't bleed the driver rear well and ended spraying fluid all over, PIA but no damage done. Just extras time to clean up.
I did get the "check 4 wheel AHC system" system when I started the car after bleeding and replacement, but restarting it 3 or 4 times cleared the error and the pump kicked in.
Even with a good light we found it super difficult to get a good reading on the fluid level in the reservoir.
After bleeding and changing all 4 we checked the fluid level and took it for a drive. Came back, added fluid, bled all 4 corners again, took it for another spin around he block, checked the fluid level and bled all 4 corners again. Very little in the system which was good. I didn't do a flush because my pump failed about 12k miles ago (replaced it and all the fluid) and fluid coming out looked brand new.
The ride difference is huge, no more thumping over road irregularities, no more bouncing and crashing over broken pavement. I would say it took the 2 of us around 2.5 hours (minus clean up and getting the Slee AHC protectors on/off)
I was initially intimidated to do this but it is really not bad at all. Like bleeding brakes with a few extra steps. If you are thinking about doing it or have a bouncy ride/lack of dampening you should def. proceed.
I had tow 2.5L cans of fluid (in case we needed to flush) but we didn't use much. I can't tell you exactly how much we used because we used a hose to big the first time we tried to fill the reservoir and ended spilling a bunch of fluid. I think we ended up taking out around 40 oz during all the bleeds (would have been more had we bled the driver rear properly)
I now feel confident to change/flush the system myself in 60k miles.
Spec on Amazon does not say they are specific, says compatible with the part numbers, so I am initially thinking that my four have no necessity to be front or rear specific.Shoot me.
I took the rails off yesterday, started on the globes this morning. The 4 came in a box labeled with what we are looking for, the part numbers mentioned.
I open the box and there are zero markings on the 4 small boxes or globes, wrapping, etc.
the only difference is I can see the stamp on the globes, 2 are 3005, and 2 are 3006.
F/R? There is no weight difference (maybe 10-20gms) and no other marking
Help?
Mine were marked on the box with the part numbers (49141-60020 Front and 49151-60020 Rear) I didn't look at the globes for the PN.Shoot me.
I took the rails off yesterday, started on the globes this morning. The 4 came in a box labeled with what we are looking for, the part numbers mentioned.
I open the box and there are zero markings on the 4 small boxes or globes, wrapping, etc.
the only difference is I can see the stamp on the globes, 2 are 3005, and 2 are 3006.
F/R? There is no weight difference (maybe 10-20gms) and no other marking
Help?
But they do have specific Toyota part numbers for front and rear. 49141-60020 Front and 49151-60020 RearSpec on Amazon does not say they are specific, says compatible with the part numbers, so I am initially thinking that my four have no necessity to be front or rear specific.
There is actually a different pressure rating stamped on the globes. I believe the higher pressure is for the front. It’s mentioned elsewhere here by me and also some others earlier on.Shoot me.
I took the rails off yesterday, started on the globes this morning. The 4 came in a box labeled with what we are looking for, the part numbers mentioned.
I open the box and there are zero markings on the 4 small boxes or globes, wrapping, etc.
the only difference is I can see the stamp on the globes, 2 are 3005, and 2 are 3006.
F/R? There is no weight difference (maybe 10-20gms) and no other marking
Help?
What’s crazy is that the individual globes don’t have the p/n on them. The stamped pressure rating is hard to see if you aren’t looking for it.But they do have specific Toyota part numbers for front and rear. 49141-60020 Front and 49151-60020 Rear
iMHO you would know by ride that your 16 year old globes were original, so they are probably replaced . . . I noticed it in the ability to damp, example - a bounce kept on bouncing, and the ability to 'feel' a difference between the ride modes.Figured this might be a good place for this question.
My truck doesn't always auto-kneel when it is in auto-kneel mode. It's sort of sporadic with no pattern. Could globes have something to do with it? I'm on my original ones (I think) at about 220k. My ride isn't bouncy as others describe here so I don't know that they are necessarily bad.
Auto kneel works when you come to a stop and put the vehicle in park, and let your foot off of the brake pedal. Turn the ignition off. If anyone in the vehicle opens a door or pulls on any of the door handles auto kneel will stop for safety and will not kneel.Figured this might be a good place for this question.
My truck doesn't always auto-kneel when it is in auto-kneel mode. It's sort of sporadic with no pattern. Could globes have something to do with it? I'm on my original ones (I think) at about 220k. My ride isn't bouncy as others describe here so I don't know that they are necessarily bad.
In mine, you also have to turn the ignition off.Auto kneel works when you come to a stop and put the vehicle in park, and let your foot off of the brake pedal. If anyone in the vehicle opens a door or pulls on any of the door handles auto kneel will stop for safety and will not kneel.
Auto kneel works when you come to a stop and put the vehicle in park, and let your foot off of the brake pedal. If anyone in the vehicle opens a door or pulls on any of the door handles auto kneel will stop for safety and will not kneel.
Right. I know and do these things. But even when I do, it doesn't always kneel.In mine, you also have to turn the ignition off.