LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET

BEG

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I would love a plug-n-play package, complete with shroud trimming jig, but I'm curious about the use of the D2S 4.0 as the initial application. If I'm not mistaken that's a bi-xenon projector that's replacing a low-beam only projector. From what I understand, bi-xenons add additional complications due to the nature of having moving parts and are really just a work around for replacing hi/lo bulbs. Plus, there's the work required to wire the bi-xenons to operate as high-beams. Wouldn't it make more sense to start with a low-beam only projector like a TSX?
 

Luke111

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I would love a plug-n-play package, complete with shroud trimming jig, but I'm curious about the use of the D2S 4.0 as the initial application. If I'm not mistaken that's a bi-xenon projector that's replacing a low-beam only projector. From what I understand, bi-xenons add additional complications due to the nature of having moving parts and are really just a work around for replacing hi/lo bulbs. Plus, there's the work required to wire the bi-xenons to operate as high-beams. Wouldn't it make more sense to start with a low-beam only projector like a TSX?
This project started with my desire to install the D2S 4.0 in my LX thinking I could use the stock projector plate. Once I realized that would not work I started down this path and I was only going to make one set for my use. As far as Bi-Xenon goes it requires a simple trigger wire to the OEM high beam so you'd have both the HID and the stock high beam firing.
TSX projectors are not readily available, cost $180.00 just for the projector.... no clear lens no ballast. The retrofit source
has one set instock as of today .
In my 80 I'm running the old Mini H1 7.0 and the low beam output is sick. The new H1 7.0 have been completely overhauled, reasonably priced and are very easy to install.
I also have to consider cost and interest....If I said these were going to cost $100.00 how many would buy them? Once the first bracket is completed it will be easy to produce other options.

Here's an low beam output shot on my 80

 

DirtDawg

"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
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Looking forward to it Luke, bracket looks fantastic. This will really open up retrofitting possibilities and ease of installation. While I have been assured by TRS that they will match the increase in demand of the TSX projectors, I am looking forward to having cheaper and better options.

Thankfully you came up with this idea, because if you didn't I would be buying a $400 set of S2K projectors to try to retro (just for s***s and gigs, they're one of my favorite projectors). Now I can just test and mess around with all the extra ones I currently have.

Edit: added to headlight database
 
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Luke111

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Looking forward to it Luke, bracket looks fantastic. This will really open up retrofitting possibilities and ease of installation. While I have been assured by TRS that they will match the increase in demand of the TSX projectors, I am looking forward to having cheaper and better options.

Thankfully you came up with this idea, because if you didn't I would be buying a $400 set of S2K projectors to try to retro (just for s***s and gigs, they're one of my favorite projectors). Now I can just test and mess around with all the extra ones I currently have.

Edit: added to headlight database
We have a 65,000 sqft body shop and I have my guys actively on the lookout for LS and TSX headlights
 
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Inland Empire, CA
 
I'm glad I procrastinated on doing HID upgrade. Interested to see how this turns out. Anyone know what year LX's come with glass lenses? Mine (2003) are plastic, and showing their age. Might make the swap while doing this.
I am not super clear on the cutoff date, but I know for sure 98-01 came with glass lenses. Not sure if they changed in 02 or 03 to plastic, but as we all know, plastic lenses are trash.
 
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HAMILTON, New Zealand
Looking good or will be once this upgrade is sorted out. Need to upgrade my 2001 VX LTD. Not sure if its old age or outdated technology but night driving in the Landcruiser is not the best partcularly on low beam. will be following this post with interest.
 

Luke111

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Looking good or will be once this upgrade is sorted out. Need to upgrade my 2001 VX LTD. Not sure if its old age or outdated technology but night driving in the Landcruiser is not the best partcularly on low beam. will be following this post with interest.
Looking at pictures of your 2001 VX you won't need this bracket to retrofit HID projectors @DirtDawg explains earlier in this thread. For members with LC without projectors the video below while not a LC explains the process. You might have to trim the reflector a bit but this bracket is not needed. Follow the steps in the video and you'll be amazed by the output.

 

Luke111

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Here's the printed poly carbonate bracket which I'll have in my hands on Monday.
We are also considering stamped steel with the attachment points welded on. I know absolutely nothing about manufacturing products like this but the guy I'm working with has worked with many different manufacturing processes in metal, plastics etc... and has contacts in China (don't tell Trump) He feels the stamped steel is the way to go to speed up the process and keep the cost down

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I'm not sure you have the volume to justify a stamping die. Tooling costs in China should be no less than 2k for a good quality stamping die. Piece price will be fairly low, but you will have to roll in your tooling costs to that price since the volume is low.

To me, CNC machine aluminum shouldn't be too expensive, especially if the tolerance are forgiving. Hardest features are the square pockets, but you can be creative with that, or find inserts that allow you to make a less-square hole. I have not seen a back to your rendering, but I am assuming it is relatively flat. That part just begs to be CNC machined out of 6061.

I am concerned of the glass temperature of 3D printed PC. Is it going to deform with the heat of the lights in the summer in the desert Southwest? I would feel better about machined or injection molded PC, but the glass temperature is still a concern. The glass temperature is the temperature at which the material starts to transition from a solid to a soft solid (jello) and can be formed. For most 3D printed plastics, it is usually 60-80 deg C. I have seen a couple of materials that break the 100 deg C barrier, but not many and they are expensive and difficult to print.
 

Luke111

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I'm not sure you have the volume to justify a stamping die. Tooling costs in China should be no less than 2k for a good quality stamping die. Piece price will be fairly low, but you will have to roll in your tooling costs to that price since the volume is low.

To me, CNC machine aluminum shouldn't be too expensive, especially if the tolerance are forgiving. Hardest features are the square pockets, but you can be creative with that, or find inserts that allow you to make a less-square hole. I have not seen a back to your rendering, but I am assuming it is relatively flat. That part just begs to be CNC machined out of 6061.

I am concerned of the glass temperature of 3D printed PC. Is it going to deform with the heat of the lights in the summer in the desert Southwest? I would feel better about machined or injection molded PC, but the glass temperature is still a concern. The glass temperature is the temperature at which the material starts to transition from a solid to a soft solid (jello) and can be formed. For most 3D printed plastics, it is usually 60-80 deg C. I have seen a couple of materials that break the 100 deg C barrier, but not many and they are expensive and difficult to print.
We discussed this early on and you seem to have first hand experience working with 3D printing so I truly value the information. We do not plan on printing the brackets that I'd like to sell.... for one it takes to long to print and as I stated in the first post we would explore other options if we feel the printed PC wouldn't hold up and you just validated my concern but I need a working model for fit...We will explore CNC, injection molded and stamp steel. I also understand cost versus low demand but until I get that number based on the best manufacturing
process I'm charging ahead.

I'm a salesman at heart and believe that every LX owner on this forum and others should convert to HID and I don't think it's money that's keeping them from doing it. For me it was fear of baking my lights, trying to mount the projector, getting the shroud glued on and wiring so I dropped more the $900 in parts and labor for the lights in my 80. If I can produce a quality product and get the cost under $100..I think I could sell enough to break even.
 
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Crestview FL
We discussed this early on and you seem to have first hand experience working with 3D printing so I truly value the information. We do not plan on printing the brackets that I'd like to sell.... for one it takes to long to print and as I stated in the first post we would explore other options if we feel the printed PC wouldn't hold up and you just validated my concern but I need a working model for fit...We will explore CNC, injection molded and stamp steel. I also understand cost versus low demand but until I get that number based on the best manufacturing
process I'm charging ahead.

I'm a salesman at heart and believe that every LX owner on this forum and others should convert to HID and I don't think it's money that's keeping them from doing it. For me it was fear of baking my lights, trying to mount the projector, getting the shroud glued on and wiring so I dropped more the $900 in parts and labor for the lights in my 80. If I can produce a quality product and get the cost under $100..I think I could sell enough to break even.
I think you nailed that one on the head. It's not the cost but it's the labor needed to perform the mod that stops people from doing it. I can't wait till this is for sale.
 

Luke111

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I just met with Ara (CAD and 3D specialist) and picked up the bracket so I can do a final mount and test the fit. Looking at the bracket you can see the printing quadrants....he can actually print this in a more solid form which could withstand more heat. Something that I never considered was the fact I have to bake the lights to put the lenses back on so the poly carbonate will actually get tested once I get the exact fit I'm going to bake these lights and install and see if It can withstand the 285° temperature for eight minutes.
Ara should have quotes by the end of the week for three manufacturing processes which will be CNC, stamped steel with welded attachment points and injected
poly carbonate

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Luke111

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Looks good. Now we're facing the problem with fitting the OEM shroud around the projector correct?

If you want the D2S 4.0 you'll have to trim the shroud but you could easily install the Mini H1 7.0 and have output that's better than the shot above. I think the majority of guys who are interested in doing this retrofit will probably go with the Mini H1 7.0 It's a very simple and install, pretty much plug-and-play you'll be more than satisfied as I have been with my 80 with the light output
 
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