Builds Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build (3 Viewers)

[FJRanger]

Regarding the airbox, I'm having issues mine. Had to clearance the inner fender just to get it to fit at all, then trimmed a bit more in the hopes of installing a 4" snorkel in the future. That went fine, as I much rather trim sheet metal than mess with the casting.

However the there's one thing holding up the final completion of the install. There is major inference between the inlet piping & one of the turbo coolant tubes. Maybe it's a 1HD-FT thing, and was hoping you'd try & grab a picture off yours for me. I've reached out to PDI a couple times but haven't received a reply yet.

 

[Lumpskie]

@FJRanger
My fitment was pretty tight too. We slightly bent the sheetmetal on the intake side to get the 4" tube into the fenderwell. The 1HDT is a little different but mine was still pretty tight in the same spots as yours. My coolant lines run differently, but the heatsheild ended up being really close to the silicone elbow... it may be touching. Here are some pictures, trying to show you the area:

You can see coolant lines way in the back of this picture:

Here they are again. you can see they run behind my heat shield.

Do you think your lines would rub against the elbow?

 

[Lumpskie]

Oooo, I almost forgot to mention. I got a 110 amp alternator. This one is a Jaylec brand. I heard they were supposed to be good quality and basically a drop in replacement. So, I spent a fair amount to give it a try:

 

[FJRanger]

@FJRanger
My fitment was pretty tight too. We slightly bent the sheetmetal on the intake side to get the 4" tube into the fenderwell. The 1HDT is a little different but mine was still pretty tight in the same spots as yours. My coolant lines run differently, but the heatsheild ended up being really close to the silicone elbow...

You can see coolant lines way in the back of this picture:

Do you think your lines would rub against the elbow?

Line routes look to be very closes.

The hard lines in your picutres appear to be the one which go around the front of the block. The one making the problem are the one which are attached to the turbo. I wouldn't ask you to take off the inlet tubing to get a picture as any movement there could create a leak... I'll add a picture to prove it, along with the new pipes ordered just to make sure a get a good seal. I checked the part #s and they're the same for both the t and ft.

Just make sure you watch yours & if you develop a coolant leak from that area it's a good place to check first.

 

[FJRanger]

Well, I've a possible remedy. It uses the OEM lower inlet portion and this: HPS High Temp 2.5" > 4" ID 4-ply Reinforced Silicone 45 Degree Elbow Reducer Hose Black 63mm 102mm
Going to make the drive up there tomorrow morning...need this wrapped up

 

[Lumpskie]

Well, I've a possible remedy. It uses the OEM lower inlet portion and this: HPS High Temp 2.5" > 4" ID 4-ply Reinforced Silicone 45 Degree Elbow Reducer Hose Black 63mm 102mm
Going to make the drive up there tomorrow morning...need this wrapped up

View attachment 2135566

That's a good idea! Post up some pictures over here, when you get it sorted out!

 

[Lumpskie]

Also, I now have 14.5volts at idle... and turning on all my accessories makes no difference! Glad that the alternator is sorted out before the snow really starts flying out here!

 

[Lumpskie]

I almost forgot to mention. I got new tires. Well... I got a new set of the same tires: Duratracs in 315 size. I'd like to upgrade to 37s sometime, but the work to get them to fit doesn't sound fun. And, despite their reputation, the Duratracs have been a great tire for me.

 

[Lumpskie]

So, I felt sick at work today and decided to go home. On the way home, I paid close attention to the sounds of my rig. I could hear what sounded like a boost leak. After tightening all my connections, I got my wife to help me out. When she boosted it, I found the leak to be this silicone coupling... it's torn in the back. (Maybe it got damaged when removing/replacing it during the alternator replacement?) Do any of you guys happen to know what the dimensions of this coupling are, or where I can find them? (I can remove it tomorrow but I am hoping to get a replacement ordered ASAP, since this is my daily driver)

 

[FJRanger]

I'll measure mine. HPS should have it, they have an Amazon store front. It's seem to have better prices than even picking it up in person... stupid MAP pricing.

 

[IanB]

I believe the turbo outlet on the Gturbo is 2.75" up from 2.5" on the stock turbo, but you'd be further ahead pulling that failed coupler out and measuring it, maybe there's even a part # on it somewhere.

Maybe some Gorilla tape would hold it together for a week if you drove it gingerly until the new coupler arrives?

 

[Lumpskie]

I'll measure mine. HPS should have it, they have an Amazon store front. It's seem to have better prices than even picking it up in person... stupid MAP pricing.

I appreciate it man. Mine got trimmed when we installed it and I'm hoping to get the standard length.

 

[Lumpskie]

I believe the turbo outlet on the Gturbo is 2.75" up from 2.5" on the stock turbo, but you'd be further ahead pulling that failed coupler out and measuring it, maybe there's even a part # on it somewhere.

Maybe some Gorilla tape would hold it together for a week if you drove it gingerly until the new coupler arrives?

If I didn't feel so beat already, I just tear into it tonight. But, this bug has me pretty laid up. I'll try to pull the coupler tomorrow at at least verify inlet and outlet diameter. For the time being, I can drive the Waggy or the Evo... which shouldn't disappoint me but it does.

 

[FJRanger]

I don't remember trimming that one and the length is 8 7/8".

 

[Lumpskie]

Wierd... PDI just emailed and said its a 2-2.5" coupler...

 

[Lumpskie]

I found this coupling, but it's listed as out of stock:

HPS 2" - 2-1/2" Silicone Offset Reducer Coupler Hose, High Temperature 4-ply Reinforced

HPS High Temp 2" - 2.5" ID , 3" Long 4-ply Reinforced Silicone Offset Reducer Coupler Hose Black 51mm 63mm exceed SAEJ20 standards, ideal for marine and industrial use, custom turbo or intercooler piping fabrication, DIY intake or radiator cooling system.

www.hps-siliconehoses.com

I'll call HPS today, and see if I can get my hands on one. I think the offset would be perfect to give me extra clearance from the heat shield.

 

[carbon60]

Oooo, I almost forgot to mention. I got a 110 amp alternator. This one is a Jaylec brand. I heard they were supposed to be good quality and basically a drop in replacement. So, I spent a fair amount to give it a try:

So, was it drop-in easy-peasy?

 

[Lumpskie]

So, was it drop-in easy-peasy?

Fairly easy. Had to file down a little of the mounting on the alternator a bit. But there weren't any major issues to report. Plugged right in and worked.

 

[Lumpskie]

Turbo hose came in from Australia, so I replaced my RTV/duct taped hose. (it held boost, thanks for the idea @IanB !)

I pulled 1 bolt out of the heat shield... clearance looks good to me but I think it's obvious that I don't know what I'm talking about.

After that, my buddy Adam (from Colorado but now lives in NY) and I did a little testing to make sure the Cruiser was operational.

This was the first year that the Cruiser was on Christmas Tree duty as well:

 

[Lumpskie]

We got some snow... over 20 inches! ... and a bunch of us are planning to go wheeling this weekend. So, I decided to buy new batteries for the Cruiser. (I'm thinking there will be a lot of winching) I found Diehard Gold AGMs for $172 a piece at Sears, so I jumped at that price.

Here are a few pictures of the snow. Even the freeways were covered, with some lanes still having over a foot of snow.

...and Christmas tree is up! (even though the topper isn't straight)