- Thread starter
- #681
Thanks, I'll check over there. I grabbed some pictures of the alternator.
Here's the connector
Here's the body
Here's where the label should be
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Thanks, I'll check over there. I grabbed some pictures of the alternator.
Here's the connector
Here's the body
Here's where the label should be
I agree with Ian. Not conclusive.
You should see voltage of around 13.5 v for charging.
Also, while you're measuring voltage, measure the voltage at each battery as the starter motor turns over the engine for a start. Kill the engine and repeat a couple of times.
Starter draws hundreds of amps momentarily. It will show up a weak battery instantly.
I wouldn't rely on headlights to introduce enough loadf forload testing
You should see voltage of around 13.5 v for charging.
Also, while you're measuring voltage, measure the voltage at each battery as the starter motor turns over the engine for a start. Kill the engine and repeat a couple of times.
Starter draws hundreds of amps momentarily. It will show up a weak battery instantly.
I wouldn't rely on headlights to introduce enough loadf forload testing
- Thread starter
- #683
Ok. I'll do that.
Do you have a clamp meter to check amp draw in the various cables? If you're down to battery voltage at idle, it means you're not providing enough current from the alt, so the battery is seeing the entire load. Could be your glow system has a problem, is staying on and is overwhelming the alternator at idle? Or some other large load is being a nuisance?
On the plus side, nothing to do with your alternator will cost anything close to the turbo you just threw in
On the plus side, nothing to do with your alternator will cost anything close to the turbo you just threw in
- Thread starter
- #685
So, the driver's side battery drops to 10.2 volts when starting. The passenger side drops to 11.2 volts. Think that driver's side battery might have a weak cell?
I have a manual wilson switch, so I don't think that's it. Also, I got 12.6 volts off the truck and 12.5 on the truck. ...never checked with just accessory swiched on and I do have an electric pump for the Airdog setup... wonder how much that draws.
I have a manual wilson switch, so I don't think that's it. Also, I got 12.6 volts off the truck and 12.5 on the truck. ...never checked with just accessory swiched on and I do have an electric pump for the Airdog setup... wonder how much that draws.
- Thread starter
- #686
On the plus side, nothing to do with your alternator will cost anything close to the turbo you just threw in
LoL, I'll tell that to my wife!
Thanks, I'll check over there. I grabbed some pictures of the alternator.
Here's the connector
You'll need to unplug it and get a pic of the connector from the end showing the plug shape to match it up. Can't tell what you've got from that.
Do you have 12 volt starter?
Are batteries linked in parallel? Or is charging managed with a charge controller?
If batteries are linked is strongly advise changing both our. If one is weak the batteries will try to equalise voltage across all cells. It can destroy a good battery in short order.
I've had a couple of dual Battery cruisers (HDJ81, and HZJ105 with batteries in parallel) and have had to change batteries far more frequently than in any other car because of this.
Buying two batteries at a time gets old quick.
If you have 12 volt start and batteries are in parallel, you're better off adding a charge management system and separate batteries so you have a primary starting battery, and the second for aftermarket accessories.
Or do what I did, and drop back to a single group 31 battery
- Thread starter
- #689
They are supposedly the stock type setup. So, I believe they are linked and I have a 24 volt starter. If I need to replace both, I'm totally fine with that. I just want to he sure my 80 doesn't leave me stranded.
- Thread starter
- #690
Would and of you mind telling me where the ground on the engine block is? (I'm up at the cabin so it's parked in the woods here and I'd like to minimize my time on the ground with the bugs out here)
- Thread starter
- #691
I'll have to remove the intake piping to get a look at the plug. (I'll try to do that tomorrow eveing) It looks like 3 wires. Are both styles 3 wires?
Yep, plug is a different shape.
You can buy an adapter for late model alternator into early cruiser
The alternator I provided a link for comes with one of those -FYI if you are considering it.
- Thread starter
- #694
Hey guys,
Forgive my noob question here but... where is the alternator ground lug? I'm home now and trying to check the ground connections like @IanB and @mudgudgeon suggested. I see what I believe to be the positive lug under a rubber boot. I see the 3 pin connector. But those are the only connections I see on the alternator. Is the ground through the mounting holes?
Forgive my noob question here but... where is the alternator ground lug? I'm home now and trying to check the ground connections like @IanB and @mudgudgeon suggested. I see what I believe to be the positive lug under a rubber boot. I see the 3 pin connector. But those are the only connections I see on the alternator. Is the ground through the mounting holes?
The alt is connected to the engine block through the mounting, so the main block ground cable connection serves that purpose. On mine I think there was 2, one on the main batt from rhd driver side, the other on the passenger side that goes to the 24v switch over relay.
- Thread starter
- #696
Thanks! If that's the case, I know that everything is clean and connected in the mounting because I cleaned everything up when I installed my new belts last year. On top of that, I found this:
Based on the fact that the housing is broken, I'm just going to order a new alternator. I'll get something that can plug right in (or as close as possible) with 100 amp output of greater.
- Thread starter
- #697
I went to the Exploring New Hampshire Fall Crawl last weekend.
The Cruiser did amazingly well and I didn't have to take a single bypass. Man, what a fun time.
The Cruiser did amazingly well and I didn't have to take a single bypass. Man, what a fun time.
You wheel your truck quite a bit, does that back porch of a bumper drag much, or are the angles pretty good for how far it sticks out?
- Thread starter
- #699
No joke, that bumper is a porch. It's a love/hate relationship with that thing. I pull a 22' boat and I love that it is a true towing bumper. (that's where some of the length comes from) I also use that porch as a place to set stuff or stand on all the time. On the other hand, I hit it or drag it almost every trip. To date, it has taken all of the blows amazingly well and the powder coat is even holding up. I'm conflicted at this point because I want a full size spare. I can't decide whether to just get a swing out or buy an all new setup.
- Thread starter
- #700
So, I got my Jaylec 110amp alternator in the mail. Hopefully, it is an easy install... it's supposed to be basically plug and play.
Can any of you guys help me with another question? My torque converter has been locking up more softly than normal recently. It still engages but the engagement is so soft that I can't really feel it. It used to be a solid thump, almost like changing gears. Do any of you guys have an idea of why it would get softer like that?
Can any of you guys help me with another question? My torque converter has been locking up more softly than normal recently. It still engages but the engagement is so soft that I can't really feel it. It used to be a solid thump, almost like changing gears. Do any of you guys have an idea of why it would get softer like that?
