Builds Lumpskie's Diesel 80 build (2 Viewers)

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After completing that trail, it was getting late in the day. So, we headed back to the cabin for a quiet evening for the kids. The rest of our group went over to the campsite and had a great time.

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The next day, we woke up and saw the only actual birds of the trip. There were between 20 and 30 turkeys all around the cabin. They were pretty busy... chasing and fighting each other.

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After breakfast, we headed back out to do more adventuring.

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There was a fog that settled in the valley, which made for some neat shots. (all cell phone... sorry)

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We got to the venue and made our way through Pinzgauers and Unimogs to get to our group.

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After getting a plan together, we headed out for what would be our most challenging day. We decided to tackle a couple of difficult level trails, one of which had a Vermont Overland Trophy "challenge" section.
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I didn't get as many pictures because I was so busy driving, but I was able to get some shots of the Slinky suspension stretching its legs.

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We got to use the Max Tracks on rcracin's Tacoma again as well. They bent and flexed but never deformed or broke.

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It was a fun day.
 
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We all hung around the campfire and talked about the adventures from the trip. Apparently, one of the attendees had been blazing a new trail on Peter's property and gotten stuck in his classic Range Rover on 37s. In trying to free himself, he used too much throttle and blew out his transmission. When he did that, he ended up rolling. It took a team till late that night to get him recovered and off the hill.

After our story telling time, we called it a night. The next morning, we hit the road back home, enjoying the quiet back roads the entire way.

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So, the Cruiser turned over really slow this morning. Multimeter showed the batteries at 11.2 volts when off. When I turned it on, I got 11.7 at idle. When I revved the engine up to 2000 rpm, I got 12.5v. I'm guessing I need a new alternator. Does anyone have a lead on where I could get one, now that Onur isn't in the business?
 
The "engine on" numbers aren't actually that out to lunch...I'd try charging both batteries on their own/out of the truck 1st and seeing if they take a full charge before chasing a new alternator. It could be a bad cell in one of them rather than a bad alternator. The glow system will be running until the engine is up warm enough, which could throw off your readings, it's a significant load.

These trucks have pretty wimpy alternators for being tasked with charging 2X batteries, if you do need to replace there's a few different options for upgrades...I'm not sure if your truck being an FZJ80 converted to diesel would complicate that or not, as far as the plugs on harnesses being the same, etc.
 
IanB said:
The "engine on" numbers aren't actually that out to lunch...I'd try charging both batteries on their own/out of the truck 1st and seeing if they take a full charge before chasing a new alternator. It could be a bad cell in one of them rather than a bad alternator. The glow system will be running until the engine is up warm enough, which could throw off your readings, it's a significant load.

These trucks have pretty wimpy alternators for being tasked with charging 2X batteries, if you do need to replace there's a few different options for upgrades...I'm not sure if your truck being an FZJ80 converted to diesel would complicate that or not, as far as the plugs on harnesses being the same, etc.
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Shouldn't the engine on numbers be 14v or so? Would a bad cell knock the voltage down that much?

Forgot to mention that I have the manual wilson switch setup.
 
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Yes a bad cell will drop voltage by about 1.5 - 2 volts.
I agree charge the batteries separately, then test voltage under load with multimeter while someone turns the key to start.
Volts should stay at 12 under load
 
Ok, I'll buy a battery charger setup (since I'm up at the cabin) and charge each battery separately. Then I'll try a load test, using the starter, and see how everything fairs.
 
Lumpskie said:
Shouldn't the engine on numbers be 14v or so? Would a bad cell knock the voltage down that much?

Forgot to mention that I have the manual wilson switch setup.
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I think the most I've ever seen from mine is about 13.5V at the battery posts while running, it's never hit 14V+ when I've had the multimeter out.

If you've got a wilson switch for the glow plugs, then you're right that it shouldn't be affecting your readings.
 
IanB said:
I think the most I've ever seen from mine is about 13.5V at the battery posts while running, it's never hit 14V+ when I've had the multimeter out.

If you've got a wilson switch for the glow plugs, then you're right that it shouldn't be affecting your readings.
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What's the typical reading you'll see at the battery? How about the low end of "normal" at the battery? For some reason, I always thought mid 13s was considered normal. Low 13s was "acceptable" and 12s was low while running.
 
For what its worth, my original alternator was running at about 13.5v at idle, the 160A Sequoia unit I threw in idles at over 14v, (unless the glow screen is on, then it's just over 12)
 
Dork said:
For what its worth, my original alternator was running at about 13.5v at idle, the 160A Sequoia unit I threw in idles at over 14v, (unless the glow screen is on, then it's just over 12)
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How hard is it to get a sequoia alternator in there?
 
Lumpskie said:
What's the typical reading you'll see at the battery? How about the low end of "normal" at the battery? For some reason, I always thought mid 13s was considered normal. Low 13s was "acceptable" and 12s was low while running.
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I drove the truck to work today, I'll try and remember to throw a multimeter on it when I get home and let you know.
 
Lumpskie said:
So, the Cruiser turned over really slow this morning. Multimeter showed the batteries at 11.2 volts when off. When I turned it on, I got 11.7 at idle. When I revved the engine up to 2000 rpm, I got 12.5v. I'm guessing I need a new alternator. Does anyone have a lead on where I could get one, now that Onur isn't in the business?
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13.48V @ idle
I couldn't get my hand throttle to hold so I couldn't get a reading at 2000 rpm, I'll have to look into that, haven't tried to use it in years.
After I shut it off I saw 13ish and slowly dropping, I'm guessing it would settle out around 12.6V after sitting for a while?

So you are seeing less than me for sure. Double check all your grounds as a starting point?
 
Took all day but my batteries are almost charged. I'll reinstall and compare tomorrow. Thanks for the reading @IanB !
 
So, it took all day to charge my batteries yesterday.

The before charge voltage was 11.0v, after charge was 12.6.

Once on the truck, they were at 12.5v (is that a parasitic draw?)

Started the truck and checked.

At idle - 12.2
1000 rpm - 12.3
1500 rpm - 12.7
2000 rpm - 13.6

back at idle after sitting at 2000 rpm for 30 seconds or so: 12.4.

Turned headlights on and voltage immediately dropped to 12.2.

Seems like I need an alternator. Would you guys agree? Is there an easy way to tell if I have the "big" or "small" body alternator? I'll try crawling under truck and see if I can find a part number but I have doubts that it's actually on there.

Thanks for the help guys,
 
Lumpskie said:
So, it took all day to charge my batteries yesterday.

The before charge voltage was 11.0v, after charge was 12.6.

Once on the truck, they were at 12.5v (is that a parasitic draw?)

Started the truck and checked.

At idle - 12.2
1000 rpm - 12.3
1500 rpm - 12.7
2000 rpm - 13.6

back at idle after sitting at 2000 rpm for 30 seconds or so: 12.4.

Turned headlights on and voltage immediately dropped to 12.2.

Seems like I need an alternator. Would you guys agree? Is there an easy way to tell if I have the "big" or "small" body alternator? I'll try crawling under truck and see if I can find a part number but I have doubts that it's actually on there.

Thanks for the help guys,
Click to expand...

I'm not an electrical guy, but if the alternator can't hold in excess of 12.6V it's going to have a hard time charging 2 batteries. I'd still double check all my connections before pulling out my wallet, some of the options are far from cheap!

As for fit, I think the biggest issue is the plug style, there's 2 styles that were used on HDJ81's, and I have no idea what to expect on your diesel converted FZJ80. There was an alternator from a Tercel/Paseo that was a bolt in upgrade for the HDJ81's that you could probably find pretty cheap if the plug end matches.

There are a bunch of threads in the diesel section that address this.
 
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