Vacuum shifter for the transfer taken apart, cleaned and painted. The shifter fork was worn through the pads on the fork ends and into the arm. The donor from the second transmission was in much better shape so I swapped it. Lubed everything up and refreshed seals and gaskets.
Resoldered broken wires from the shifter switch and fashioned a new boot out of some heavy duty wire shrink tube I had. Just need to figured out a spacer to go around and between the wires and heat it up to fit.
Checked operation by sucking the tube on each side of the diaphragm. Works like a charm. Can't wait to see this in action. Such a cool design.
I have what I believe to be an early 70's master cylinder and booster I purchased shortly after I bought the truck with the intent to convert to a dual circuit system. I can't quite make out the last digit in the model number but believe to be a 44610-60011. Can someone confirm this is the correct MC for a 4wheel drum brake setup? I would like to trust I did my homework thoroughly before purchasing but it was years ago and i can't 100% remember. I will be running it without the booster for now so I don't have to replace banjo fittings.
Also, what is the best way to check that the 10lb residual valves are present? Just remove the brass fittings and look?
Resurfaced flywheel, new Aisin clutch, release bearing and pilot bearing. The old pilot bearing was stubborn and wouldn't budge with a puller. I learned about the bread trick while looking up ways to get it out. I used the clevis pin from a chain hook that fit perfectly through the bearing race. Took about 5 minutes of easy work to pop it out.
The clutch housing was a bear. I could not get it to sit down inside the lip of the fly wheel. After some trial and error it finally seated. The trick was only turning the bolts a half-turn at a time and then rotating the flywheel to access the next one. It took forever to get them all tightened but after hours of wrestling with it, I was happy.
After having these on the bench for months, this was one of the most exciting days in this rebuild. Transmission and transfer mounted to the engine with new gaskets and freshly plated fasteners. Starting to look like a drivetrain again.
The transfer rear output shaft was missing the spacer when I took it apart and had no bearing preload at all. I ordered a kit and ended up using all 4 sizes and still ended up a half kilogram short of the lower range. My spring scale is old so maybe I'm closer than what it shows. I'll wait to see how it feels once I get it on the road I think.
Front drive shifter installed with my fabbed up switch boot. The heat shrink has some adhesive on the inside so I think I will grab on and seal pretty well once I find a space for the wire end.
Parking brake cleaned up and refreshed. My cable looked like hell. The cover sleeve was split in multiple places and missing sections and had some rusty places underneath. It moved freely and I didn't want to replace it if I could salvage it. I cut off the old crusty cable cover. Letting some Krylon Ten4 cleaner wick down the cable, i worked it back and forth to clear out the grit. Once it was smoothly operating, I cleaned up the metal slide outer shell and then replated the eye hook. I used some stiff, heavy duty cable heat shrink and recovered the cable. It turned out pretty well and I saved some cash on a replacement.
Apparently I dropped my alternator at some point and cracked the housing. Confirmed with disassembly pictures that it wasn't cracked when I removed it. Took apart and cleaned up. Tested good per FSM instructions. Looks like it had been rebuilt at some point. The brushes looked low mileage and the bearing was changed to a fully closed style with no felt dust seal under the cap. Fresh coat of paint a replated fasteners and it's ready to go.
Distributor and fuel filter bowl at the parts spa.
I used some Meguiars PlastX on the distributor cap to bring it back to life. Took a couple of treatments but the color came back. TBD if it needs to be replaced but taking the wait and see approach like most other original parts on this truck.
My fuel filter bowl was missing the spring for the paper filter. PO had removed the filter and cemented the glass closed in favor of a smaller inline filter after the fuel pump. Used a heat gun to melt the plastic cement which worked like a charm. I picked up a light conical spring from the local hardware store and reshaped it to make it fit the bowl. Took some trial and error to get the shape and tension right but it worked out nicely.
Pressed out the original Toyota u-joint bearings and learned some things not to do along the way. If the bearing is not aligned perfectly when pressing back and forth to remove/install, it binds and makes this job suck. The rear shaft took me multiple hours and curses over a few days before I finally got it figured out and got the bearings out. The front shaft took a half hour combined for disassembly and reassembly.
Soaked the felt seal in degreaser overnight and it sprang back to life when I rinsed with hot water. Scooped and scraped out all the old, dry grease. Degreased, blast painted and reassembled.
Front drive shaft fit like a glove l, but the rear shaft is a good inch or two long from fitting like it did when it came off. It fit fine on the old springs so I'm thinking I just need time and weight for the new springs to settle before I can bolt up the rear. Shackle angle is pretty abysmal in the back.
Speed marker will go back in the truck but will not be wired up, so I figured I'd take it apart and see how it works. Cleaned it up and polished and applied some new water proof silicone to seal it.
Attempted to rebuild the water pump of unkown origin that came with the truck but after pressing out the shaft, I discovered the seal was pretty difficult to source. Found this interesting GMB pump from an eBay seller that came in a plain brown box with a UPC and "Made in Japan" sticker, although the pump doesn't indicate Japan on it. Degreased it and painted it with KBS Motor Coat enamel. Turned out pretty sharp.
OP lost the spacer during the engine swap and instead of replacing, just flipped the fan around facing backward. Needless to say it has some clearance issues when on the right way. It's got a big crack in one of the blades anyway so new city racer fan and spacer on the way.
I found a deeper pulley from a SA truck after finishing up this pump, so next time it needs a water pump, I should be able to replace with later model OEM and remove the spacer for the taller pump.
I got the itch to start some body cleanup. PO cheaply sprayed about half the body with white rattle cans. I'm guessing they were going for a patriotic look since some of the inside parts like glove box door and gauge cluster were sprayed blue and the back half of the truck wasn't painted at all.
Messed around with a few different methods but the best combo I found to remove the paint was 0000 steel wool and brake cleaner (acetone). I kept a wet towel nearby and would wipe down the paint as the acetone made it solvent. There is some badass original paint underneath that I think will look really cool as a patina rig.
Some fine sand paper underneath took care of some rust where the paint was gone. A CLR soaked scrotch bright pad handled the rest. The panels of this truck are in excellent condition. No surprise rot yet.
More spray paint cleanup. I got tired of tripping over them leaning against the wall so I mocked them up on the frame. Feels pretty good seeing some color on it after so long seeing just black and silver. Really dig the red-orange pop of the original paint color.
The tarp I had covering the body liked collecting water and would start rusting the floors if I didn't keep up with emptying the standing water, so I figured it was time to move it inside. I rolled it in on a makeshift stand I'd built to work on it, but I didn't trust crawling under it so decided to just temporarily set the tub back in the frame.
I started the tedious process of cleaning the spray paint off the sides. It was really heavy along the rockers and fenders but mostly came off pretty cleanly. A couple spots went down to gray primer but I'm overall happy with the results. The best news was no surprises under the spray. Just original sheet metal and paint. Gave the inside a CLR bath while I was at it.
My amber side markers were a bit weathered but in overall good shape. I built a jig and cautiously separated them by using the nuts to pull the back plate out of the frame.
Rings were blasted and painted. I used some transparent model paint by Tamiya that turned out great. Cleaned up the gaskets and reassembled.
Cleaned up the radiator and tested for leaks. Aside from some bent fins, it seems OK. It was replaced by "Apollo Radiators" shop out of Arizona sometime around 2000 is my best guess. I may end up replacing this but for now, we'll give it a go.
Got my new CityRacer fan and spacer in and bolted them up.
My lower radiator hose that PO had ordered from SOR but never installed is an inch longer than the old one I took off. Anyone ever had to cut this to fit? I can force it on, but I get some awkward bends in the hose instead of a relaxed fit.
Took apart and cleaned up. Tested good per FSM instructions. Looks like it had been rebuilt at some point. The brushes looked low mileage and the bearing was changed to a fully closed style with no felt dust seal under the cap. Fresh coat of paint a replated fasteners and it's ready to go.
