Lucy the LC: 1970 FJ40 Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Happy day! Got the frame back in the garage. Its about to get fun. Mocked up the springs with my handy Downey shackles and some anti-inversion shackles up front. Was worried the Downeys wouldn't fit but they worked out nicely! I now have 4" of lift all around between the shackles and springs. Just have to finish the axles and I'll have a roller again.

I think I may have put the grease fittings on the wrong side. I'll get that squared away this weekend.

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Been awhile since updating this build so I'll try to catch up! Sometimes life doesn't want you to spend time in the garage and stretches projects awhile. Starting to pick up some steam again though.

Couple of engine reassembly shots. I left the broken rocker support and drilled out the broken bolt to assemble it. The break was so clean and holds perfectly when under bolt tension that I didn't see a major need to address. During reassembly, I lubed everything with Lucas Assembly Lube to keep it from oxidizing before I start it up. Replated all external fasteners and head bolts and made some paint touch ups.

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Next up: transmission rebuild. The original was full of water, actually ice since we first picked it up on an Arizona January morning at 10 degrees, and had plenty of corrosion and sludge on every gear and box surface. I considered moving to a 4speed since I already had the later F engine swapped but really wanted the original column shift setup.

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Would you mind expanding on "I'm happy with my home-brew plating solution so far."
As a fan of home brew plating myself, curious as to what you are using.
Cleanliness is indeed the key to making this work.

I trust you were not hit too hard with the storm through your area, I am just up the road in Sugarland.

Cheers
 
Would you mind expanding on "I'm happy with my home-brew plating solution so far."
As a fan of home brew plating myself, curious as to what you are using.
Cleanliness is indeed the key to making this work.
Pretty simple 5% vinegar and Epsom salt electrolyte with a block of zinc cut into smaller anodes and an adjustable power supply. They don't come out of the bath with a professional shine but polish up well with a light brushing with soft brass wire wheel.

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Transmission cleaned, degreased and painted. I didn't mess with gears and took the guy's word that it shifted well before he pulled it. We'll see if I regret that. I didn't want to spend too much restoring a 3 speed and will just move to 4 speed if this one gives me too much trouble after getting it on the road.

New seals on shifter cover. I couldn't find anyone selling 3speed column shifter seals but measured the transfer cover seals and found they are the same dimensions. They fit like a glove.

New gaskets and oil seals from an overhaul kit and set aside to stab in the engine.

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Before digging into the transfer, I wanted to get the axles back under the frame and began the teardown and cleanup phase. Lots of crust and dirt but nothing broken or damaged. These wouldn't fit in my blast cabinet so I just used a wire wheel to clean up before degrease and paint.

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I went with POR15 paint on axles after reading about durability and ease of touching up. It turned out OK rolling on but is really thick and doesn't settle evenly like normal paint. After struggling to get good results, I went with spray enamel on the differential housings and will stick to that moving forward. 2 coats primer, 3 coats color and 3-5 coats clear. I used high heat engine enamel since it is supposedly resistant to chemicals.

Pulled all diff studs and plated them. Only a couple were boogered but cleaned right up after running through a die.

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Axles done and installed on the truck. My U-bolts are too short for the new springs and will need to be replaced. Didn't think about that when I bought the springs. They gave me enough thread to hold the axles for now.

Differentials are in good shape and passed simple clearance checks. No leaks were visible from the pinion flanges so I left those seals intact. New gaskets for the diff carriers and inspection cover.

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You should definitely change the pinion seals before reassembly. Literally a no-brainer.
 
You should definitely change the pinion seals before reassembly. Literally a no-brainer.
Can i do that without taking the differential down or will the input shaft get in the way? (I've already mounted the housings and torqued them down)
 
Knuckles up next. Everything media blasted and a fresh coat of paint and new seals and gaskets all around. Wheel bearings were in great shape and were cleaned and packed with new grease. All fasteners replated and bearing preload checked after assembly.

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Warn hubs were disassembled and cleaned up. I ordered a repair kit from warn but most of it was duplicate gaskets from the knuckle rebuild kit I ordered and it didn't include one rubber seal for under the cap. If I didn't need a couple of the special hex screws it included, I would have skipped it.

Wheel cylinders disassembled and cleaned. Bores were honed and lubricated before assembly again. I'm planning on installing a dual circuit brake system and may end up replacing all the 9mm fittings with 10mm so didn't opt to buy all new wheel cylinders at this point. I may go that route when I start plumbing brake lines.

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Blasted and painted backing plates. The groove along the inside was a pain in the ass to get clean. The manual said there should be retaining clips on the pads, and the pads have holes to accommodate, but the backing plates did not. Alternating the springs front/back seems to keep everything in place. I didn't do any adjustments and will cross that bridge once I get brake lines in.

These warn hubs are so cool and work really well, at least on stands in the garage. The original retaining clips to mount to the spindle don't seem to exist any more and were replaced with locking washers.

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Rear axles are so much simpler than front. :) One was missing the oil gasket on the back side and had caked and baked the backing plate black with gear oil. Pressed out all axle studs and replated. Straightened gasket backing plates and reinstalled with new gaskets.

Refreshed brakes just like fronts. Missing the adjuster spring on one of the wheel cylinders. Holding off replacing until I decide what I'm doing with brake system. Installed backing plates with freshly plated fasteners.

New oil seal behind wheel bearings before stabbing in rear axles.

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Can i do that without taking the differential down or will the input shaft get in the way? (I've already mounted the housings and torqued them down)
It’s just easier to load the flange back on when you can apply pressure directly to the other side of the pinion.
 
Transfer case up next. Scraped all the gunk off and rigged up a stand to degrease without pulling gears. The oil that drained was clean and the gears looked in good shape. Output bearings were pulled and cleaned along with front drive outout shaft. After a fresh coat of paint, all seals and gaskets were replaced from a rebuild kit. Like the transmission, since I haven't ever driven this and am not sure which transmission will ultimately end up in it, I didn't want to totally tear down yet. Hardware replated and set aside for installation with transmission.

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