I was told the early asian crt-012 slave works better with the stock master, and it is working for me.
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LS Swap - Stronger Clutch options? (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Jackson Hanes
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Downey
SILVER Star
Don’t know, some here on Mud have talked about fixes, mixing different masters with different slaves ???, which should give easy pedal very stiff pedal ???
My set up is un-tested at this point as the truck is still coming together- however I bought the Advance Adapters LS Centerforce clutch kit. Their Flywheel is basically "offset" machined to compensate for the difference in the LS crank "snout" length versus the old Gen 2 SBC's. I'm running and Gen IV 5.3 with an otherwise stock drivetrain(4 speed trans and T-case). As Jim mentioned above, slave cylinder adjusted is critical, even with the old school SBC's(in my opinion anyway). Good luck
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Which year 6.0 are you running? I’ve learned (hopefully correct info) that the 99-2000 6.0s had the long snout crank which can use a same vintage 5.7 firebird clutch setup with sbc/bbc dimensions.
My stuff is still in boxes and pieces so I can’t verify this is gunna work.
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
If it was the hub in the clutch disc that has wallowed itself loose and is wobbly it is an alignment issue. Been there done that. Check bellhousing fit to engine. Flush. And then fit bellhousing to Tranny. Mine had a dowel pin to long and was causing a slight misalignment. Did it round out the pilot bearing also ? It usually does. Check your pilot bearing for wear also.
If it is the clutch disc hub that has become loose and wobbly then it’s an alignment issue.
I don’t use luk. Post pic of pressure plate. There is another version made by someone else. CA5473. The non LUk pressure plate low profile works better with the Toyota hydraulic. Post pics if possible.
If it is the clutch disc hub that has become loose and wobbly then it’s an alignment issue.
I don’t use luk. Post pic of pressure plate. There is another version made by someone else. CA5473. The non LUk pressure plate low profile works better with the Toyota hydraulic. Post pics if possible.
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jim land
SILVER Star
This old thread could help
- Thread starter
- #27
So tonight I was going over my work, and I put two and two together.
Looking at info posted in the forum I believe it was an alignment issue due to the nature of the failure.
I was browsing pics before I unbolted the tranny and there was what looks like a gap between the engine and bell housing.
I have also gathered that I should probably upgrade to -> asian crt-012 for more throw to compensate for a chevy clutch; and I'm most likely going to order Centerforce clutch with part numbers provided in this forum.
Looking at info posted in the forum I believe it was an alignment issue due to the nature of the failure.
I was browsing pics before I unbolted the tranny and there was what looks like a gap between the engine and bell housing.
I have also gathered that I should probably upgrade to -> asian crt-012 for more throw to compensate for a chevy clutch; and I'm most likely going to order Centerforce clutch with part numbers provided in this forum.
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
I post that two comments above about alignment. Yep. At least ya figures it out. I’ve messed with these V8 conversion clutch issues for years. Adjust the pedal play at the master to almost zero tolerance. Make sure your clutch pedal isn’t hitting the floor too early and not alowing full travel of master. Make sure your clutch pedal has a return spring top of pedal and adjust the clutch slave until it is just about to have the throw out bearing touch the fingers. But no touching don’t want that bearing spinning or dragging the clutch. And never leave your foot resting on the clutch pedal while you’re driving. Keep your foot on the floor.
It’s usually always alignment when it prematurely damages the clutch disc hub check your pilot bearing. It’s probably wallowed out and will be sloppy and not able to support the tip of the input shaft properly.
After 40 years of doing clutch jobs without fail I bought a beater GMC 3500 w/ dump bed for hauling locally on my own projects. Had a rod knock so put in used engine. Harder to stab tranny than usual but why stop to think! (even when you know better) Now once it gets warm it grinds a bit going into gears; I suspect misalignment with throughout bushing. Grr I’m waiting till I have time and get my hands on a better big block. But it’s a great excuse not to lend the truck out! More like a feature! 
- Thread starter
- #30
Yeah thanks for this write up, so that obviously I don't want the bearing touching the fingers is there an arbitrary number I should aim for ex .010?I post that two comments above about alignment. Yep. At least ya figures it out. I’ve messed with these V8 conversion clutch issues for years. Adjust the pedal play at the master to almost zero tolerance. Make sure your clutch pedal isn’t hitting the floor too early and not alowing full travel of master. Make sure your clutch pedal has a return spring top of pedal and adjust the clutch slave until it is just about to have the throw out bearing touch the fingers. But no touching don’t want that bearing spinning or dragging the clutch. And never leave your foot resting on the clutch pedal while you’re driving. Keep your foot on the floor.
It’s usually always alignment when it prematurely damages the clutch disc hub check your pilot bearing. It’s probably wallowed out and will be sloppy and not able to support the tip of the input shaft properly.
I adjust mine with the engine running in neutral and the clutch cover removed to see what's going on.
Play with the extension of the slave cylinder shaft so it spins the throwout bearing then back off until it doesn't spin it anymore, then get it as close as you can to spinning without touching and spinning, then lock the lock nut
Play with the extension of the slave cylinder shaft so it spins the throwout bearing then back off until it doesn't spin it anymore, then get it as close as you can to spinning without touching and spinning, then lock the lock nut
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I adjust both my sbc's per fsm because I'm using the stk slave and master. One has a sm420 using all stk gm parts, the other has a nv4500, which i have no idea how it was setup. Adjust pedal height to insure full stroke. Pedal freeplay is when the slave piston starts to move. I adjust this while pushing on the pedal with my hand and watching the slave, with the return spring on.
- Thread starter
- #33
Then whats the consensus on pilot bearing, the one I'm running is making a whole lotta noises; was running a B15-115 bearing.
But that seems really tight around the shaft, so tight I can't slide it on.
This is the last thing I need to figure out before I can order everything.
But that seems really tight around the shaft, so tight I can't slide it on.
This is the last thing I need to figure out before I can order everything.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
The pilot bearing question will get lots of opinions; none necessarily wrong. I run a bearing in my cruisers with stock drivetrain. Any chevota setup I’ve had I’ve run the bronze bushing and I run a bushing in my BBC Chevelle with Muncie trans. If you’re running a newer trans that needs concentric alignment then use what that trans manufacturer recommends, but if it’s the Toyota 3 or 4 speed or and SM420/465 or something, the input shaft is a lot more forgiving of imperfect alignment and it’s personal preference, I feel.
Lot more contact area with a bushing. If you are clutch rider then a bearing might be your ticket.
