Yes I was referring to the head. Just didnt know if it was taboo to paint it.
Logic's New Engine Build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
- Start date
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FMC80
SILVER Star
Looks great man, love your work space too. Nice floors and tons of room.
- Thread starter
- #63
Made some progress on assembly. Waiting on a few small items to come in and then its going in.
Torque converter is installed. When installing ensure you get it to seat correctly. There are three (3) components to line up. Turbine, stator, and pump. Once installed it will sit very tight against the back of the housing.
Another tip is to check the alignment stem for any roughness. Smooth it out as it is very tight fit with the crankshaft. Use some lube on the stem and guide pins of housing to help with alignment and easier installation. I also staged all the bolts especially the top ones before I install the motor.
Block coolant drain upgraded to spout style. This will help reduce a mess at next coolant flush.
Freshly cleaned injectors, vacuum hoses, and hardware.
Pesky heater hose replaced with Gates Green Stripe and constant torque clamps. I positioned them so they will be able to be removed after engine is installed if needed.
Thanks @NLXTACY for the hard pipe! Looks great. Installed both bolts to secure it.
Assembly ready to go in. New plugs, wires, rotor, cap, rebuilt power steering pump and hoses, new harness, and much more!
Torque converter is installed. When installing ensure you get it to seat correctly. There are three (3) components to line up. Turbine, stator, and pump. Once installed it will sit very tight against the back of the housing.
Another tip is to check the alignment stem for any roughness. Smooth it out as it is very tight fit with the crankshaft. Use some lube on the stem and guide pins of housing to help with alignment and easier installation. I also staged all the bolts especially the top ones before I install the motor.
Block coolant drain upgraded to spout style. This will help reduce a mess at next coolant flush.
Freshly cleaned injectors, vacuum hoses, and hardware.
Pesky heater hose replaced with Gates Green Stripe and constant torque clamps. I positioned them so they will be able to be removed after engine is installed if needed.
Thanks @NLXTACY for the hard pipe! Looks great. Installed both bolts to secure it.
Assembly ready to go in. New plugs, wires, rotor, cap, rebuilt power steering pump and hoses, new harness, and much more!
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- Thread starter
- #64
Some shipping delays on the last few parts so I refreshed the hood.
Removed the old liner, degreased, and cleaned up any left over material.
I then followed @NLXTACY example and applied SEM 39377 sealer to all ribs and seams. This will prevent the hood skin from flapping in the wind. I only purchased one and it was just barely enough. I’d recommend two. It also comes out pretty quick and can make a mess very fast. I applied liberally to ensure a good bond. Then flipped over the hood to set. Sets very fast so move quickly.
Before installing a new OEM insulator, I replaced the windshield washers with 3-nozzle style and new rubber hose.
Removed the old liner, degreased, and cleaned up any left over material.
I then followed @NLXTACY example and applied SEM 39377 sealer to all ribs and seams. This will prevent the hood skin from flapping in the wind. I only purchased one and it was just barely enough. I’d recommend two. It also comes out pretty quick and can make a mess very fast. I applied liberally to ensure a good bond. Then flipped over the hood to set. Sets very fast so move quickly.
Before installing a new OEM insulator, I replaced the windshield washers with 3-nozzle style and new rubber hose.
- Thread starter
- #65
Update on the project:
Last items arrived and were installed.
Like others have done in the past, i greased up the guide pins on engine-to-trans to make the mating very smooth. I also greased up the alignment stem on torque converter and mating hole on engine side after some thorough cleaning. The final piece of the puzzle was proper alignment. I picked up various length grade 8 bolts that are longer than the stock bell housing ones. This allowed me to align everything well before contact. I installed 5 bolts and everything went together very smoothly. I used the bolts to slowly mate both parts.
I then torqued all bolts including the top two by allowing the trans to drop down some after removing the mount.
I ran new battery cables and connected all hoses and wires.
Motor is in and ready for accessories.
Exhaust is installed and front/rear heaters are connected.
All new exhaust hardware and gaskets.
After everything was together I noticed I forgot to install the motor mount shields. I went back and installed them.
Last items arrived and were installed.
Like others have done in the past, i greased up the guide pins on engine-to-trans to make the mating very smooth. I also greased up the alignment stem on torque converter and mating hole on engine side after some thorough cleaning. The final piece of the puzzle was proper alignment. I picked up various length grade 8 bolts that are longer than the stock bell housing ones. This allowed me to align everything well before contact. I installed 5 bolts and everything went together very smoothly. I used the bolts to slowly mate both parts.
I then torqued all bolts including the top two by allowing the trans to drop down some after removing the mount.
I ran new battery cables and connected all hoses and wires.
Motor is in and ready for accessories.
Exhaust is installed and front/rear heaters are connected.
All new exhaust hardware and gaskets.
After everything was together I noticed I forgot to install the motor mount shields. I went back and installed them.
- Thread starter
- #66
Here are some additional photos of the finished product.
New battery cables run following original path.
New battery cable attached to a freshly rebuilt 2.2kW starter.
Everything put together. The new hood insulator makes a big difference in appearance!
The alternator connector broke on me during installation. I ordered a new one and installed it after this photo was taken.
New battery cables run following original path.
New battery cable attached to a freshly rebuilt 2.2kW starter.
Everything put together. The new hood insulator makes a big difference in appearance!
The alternator connector broke on me during installation. I ordered a new one and installed it after this photo was taken.
- Thread starter
- #67
I primed the engine with engine oil before starting it by use of starter and removing the fuel injection relay. I waited for the pressure to build up. Repeated this process a few times with enough time for the starter to cool off. The engine started a few cranks after relay was installed.
Only drip I had was the updated coolant block drain cock. I tightened it up and no more leaks.
Engine runs very smooth. I adjusted idle to bring it up to 650 after warmed up.
The truck drives really well and shifts as designed.
Very strong oil pressure while driving and as expected at idle.
Engine temperatures are all within range.
I will be draining the break in oil after 100-150 miles and filling up with non-synthetic for about 5k. That should conclude the break in period.
Very strong motor. No smoke or any noises while operating.
Time to sell and move on to another project.
Only drip I had was the updated coolant block drain cock. I tightened it up and no more leaks.
Engine runs very smooth. I adjusted idle to bring it up to 650 after warmed up.
The truck drives really well and shifts as designed.
Very strong oil pressure while driving and as expected at idle.
Engine temperatures are all within range.
I will be draining the break in oil after 100-150 miles and filling up with non-synthetic for about 5k. That should conclude the break in period.
Very strong motor. No smoke or any noises while operating.
Time to sell and move on to another project.
FMC80
SILVER Star
How tight did you have to go with the cock drain? I installed mine and noticed it slowly leaked even after a few extra ugga duggas and it still leaked so I threw the original brass plug in.
@
@FMC80 Im not sure if I was telling you about that drain plug. I bought it a few yrs ago. Installed on a Friday and went back to the original on Monday. I thigtened it until it couldn't get any tighter. Kept leaking.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,421
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
FYI guys, the thread pitch is different on the old style drain plug vs the new. For example you will not be putting the old style plug in a new short block.
Cheers
Cheers
FMC80
SILVER Star
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- Thread starter
- #72
I did not crank on it and also used a small amount of FIPG. I originally positioned it so it would point at 6 o'clock. I had a tiny drip after fluids were filled. With a 3/8" ratchet I was able to add a full rotation without much force. This stopped the drip entirely. Probably can go another 1/2 turn until its starts to really get tight. I was too light on it from the start.
You can see it in the photo below as it sits now.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Thanks for the reference. I’ll likely leave mine alone based on SNLC’s info. Your work is solid and I wish you the best of luck selling. What’s the next project?
- Thread starter
- #74
Replaced the visors with available OEM style that are not powered.
Added a Toyota hood prop. Love these little touches.
Rebuilt the power antenna and added a new mast and cable. Crisp radio signal.
Added a Toyota hood prop. Love these little touches.
Rebuilt the power antenna and added a new mast and cable. Crisp radio signal.
COYS
SILVER Star
I really appreciate your attn to detail and know how. 
You mention some seals here.
Would you happen to have the part #s to swap out while my engine is detached from the trans?
You mention some seals here.
Would you happen to have the part #s to swap out while my engine is detached from the trans?
- Thread starter
- #76
I really appreciate your attn to detail and know how.
You mention some seals here.
I replaced these items because the truck is at 300k on original seals. If you have a transmission weeping out of the bottom hole in bell housing the input shaft seal is most likely the culprit. This job was easy. The pump cover has jacking holes for you to slowly extract the pump. You can see the jacking bolts in my photo you included.
35301A - Input shaft seal: 90311-38029 -> replaced by 90311-38020
35301B - Pump o-ring: 90301-99033
COYS
SILVER Star
Thanks for the visual.
How important would you rate the lifters to replace? I just tried ordering them and the USA based Toyota dealer says NLA.
13751-66020 qty 24
How important would you rate the lifters to replace? I just tried ordering them and the USA based Toyota dealer says NLA.
13751-66020 qty 24
- Thread starter
- #78
Unless they are damaged or lost they do not need to be replaced. When doing valve adjustment, you will focus on the shims.
- Thread starter
- #79
Returning to this project. Since the last update the following was done:
- Installed a new OEM rubber intake hose
- Replaced A/C tensioner pulley with new OEM
- Been driving it to break in the engine. Still running on non-synthetic for the remainder of oil change. Then I will switch over to synthetic.
Engine has been running well. Though the RPM does settle out to 450rpm when warmed up. It runs really smooth at this RPM. I have looked into the following with no change in idle RPM.
- IAC valve. I cleaned it and verified operation per manual.
- Inspected and checked the TPS per manual. Within specifications.
- Replaced aftermarket intake hose with new oem. no change.
- Inspected all vacuum hoses. They were all replaced with new during rebuild. Vacuum valves were also replaced with new during build.
- Timing is set to 3° BTDC.
I have left to test the EGR valve and solenoid. Any other ideas? Maybe the accuracy of gauge is not so sharp after 300k miles.
In addition to the above, I purchased a partial new gen 3 supercharger from @Convoy. It is missing a few items that I am going to try and fabricate and/or locate with whatever free time I have. If you have any parts sitting around please message me!
What I have:
-New supercharger and plenum
-crankshaft pulley and spacer
What is missing:
-throttle body adapter. Fabricated February 2022
-bypass valve and solenoid. Obtained.
-intake runner pipe. Designed.
-brake booster pipe
-coolant pipe
-belt tensioner bracket and pulley spacer. Fabricated December 2021
-assorted hoses, nuts, and bolts. Obtained.
So far I have started to work on designing the tensioner bracket and spacer. I have tried to send my design to a few of the online shops like hubs.com and oshcut.com for bending but they come back with a note saying the press would not be able to achieve this part due to how close each bend is. CNC is the next option. I can have it made as an assembly or two separate parts. Anyone have a press that can do close bends?
The second part to be modified is the orange clutch fan. I have purchased a new one from Toyota and machined the flange down to fit the water pump nipple.
The next part I will be working on is the throttle body adapter. I may design it as a multi piece part for easier machining. If anyone has this part to assist with measurements that would be great.
If anyone has any of the missing parts please reach out.
Orange fan clutch machining.
Belt tensioner bracket and pulley spacer. I think CNC might be best option.
- Installed a new OEM rubber intake hose
- Replaced A/C tensioner pulley with new OEM
- Been driving it to break in the engine. Still running on non-synthetic for the remainder of oil change. Then I will switch over to synthetic.
Engine has been running well. Though the RPM does settle out to 450rpm when warmed up. It runs really smooth at this RPM. I have looked into the following with no change in idle RPM.
- IAC valve. I cleaned it and verified operation per manual.
- Inspected and checked the TPS per manual. Within specifications.
- Replaced aftermarket intake hose with new oem. no change.
- Inspected all vacuum hoses. They were all replaced with new during rebuild. Vacuum valves were also replaced with new during build.
- Timing is set to 3° BTDC.
I have left to test the EGR valve and solenoid. Any other ideas? Maybe the accuracy of gauge is not so sharp after 300k miles.
In addition to the above, I purchased a partial new gen 3 supercharger from @Convoy. It is missing a few items that I am going to try and fabricate and/or locate with whatever free time I have. If you have any parts sitting around please message me!
What I have:
-New supercharger and plenum
-crankshaft pulley and spacer
What is missing:
-throttle body adapter. Fabricated February 2022
-bypass valve and solenoid. Obtained.
-intake runner pipe. Designed.
-brake booster pipe
-coolant pipe
-belt tensioner bracket and pulley spacer. Fabricated December 2021
-assorted hoses, nuts, and bolts. Obtained.
So far I have started to work on designing the tensioner bracket and spacer. I have tried to send my design to a few of the online shops like hubs.com and oshcut.com for bending but they come back with a note saying the press would not be able to achieve this part due to how close each bend is. CNC is the next option. I can have it made as an assembly or two separate parts. Anyone have a press that can do close bends?
The second part to be modified is the orange clutch fan. I have purchased a new one from Toyota and machined the flange down to fit the water pump nipple.
The next part I will be working on is the throttle body adapter. I may design it as a multi piece part for easier machining. If anyone has this part to assist with measurements that would be great.
If anyone has any of the missing parts please reach out.
Orange fan clutch machining.
Belt tensioner bracket and pulley spacer. I think CNC might be best option.
Last edited:
probably a "stamped" piece as opposed to bent
