Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap

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Nice work on the swap and documenting what you have done so far. I just finished reading through this whole thread and it's been a good read. I'm going to add this to the diesel section FAQ.
:beer::beer:
 
Tonight I got the missing dowel and got the t case in. I have had the t case in and out far too many times to struggle with it as much as I do. Got it in though.

I also got 90% of the throttle cable done, I just need to cut the actual cable to length now and install. I also bashed my fire wall in too much and it's effecting the throttle so I need to pound it back out a bit.

Sunday Monday are all work on truck days this weekend so hopefully I'll get a lot accomplished.
 
serenity said:
Nice work on the swap and documenting what you have done so far. I just finished reading through this whole thread and it's been a good read. I'm going to add this to the diesel section FAQ.
:beer::beer:
Click to expand...

Glad you enjoyed it! Feel free to add it, can even add my failed Isuzu swap build if you like lol.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Glad you enjoyed it! Feel free to add it, can even add my failed Isuzu swap build if you like lol.
Click to expand...
Not a failure. You just gained knowledge. Most people would have thrown in the towel a loooong time ago.
 
Worked on the wiring and decided to redo a bunch of the power management.

I have 3 weather tight relays one is for the FSS to turn on the high amp side of the solenoid. One is for the starter since the factory Toyota system is not strong enough and causes random no cranks. The 3rd is a key on 12v that will supply power to a few different key on power sources under the hood.

It's all mounted to an old 2x6 to lay out the wiring and space things correctly. I will need to make a braket to hold all this on the driver side of the engine bay.

I also plan to run all my power through a keyed power disconnect.



I also got the reverse light switch wired and working as well as 12v to the D light so if I ever install the cruise controle I don't need to go back into the harness. The CDL needed to get switched 12v from the old NSS wiring to fool it to thinking the truck was in nutral/park as well. Tomorrow I plan to loom all the wiring, make a braket for the relays and fuse box and see if it will crank.

I completed the throttle cable today as well.





Was fairly easy to set up.

I do have a real hard pedal though to get it moving. Once it's past a certain point it's all good. It is in the linkage and it looks like at the start of throttle application the linkage is almost working against its self. I'm not really sure what is going on with it. Mine has a 94-96 linkage and all the parts that rust and bind have been replaced. Not sure what is going on. The cable is nice and smooth so it's not that.
 
So ended up redoing my wiring front to back harness and all. I was not happy with the way everything was converting over after already doing git once it was time to start over. I ended up spending my whole weekend redoing all the main power harness and all.

So no pictures really but at the end I can turn the key and the starter solenoid clicks (main power is not connected) and the fuel solenoid turns on the fuel. When I put the truck in reverse the reveres lights activate, cdl works and all the factory sensors are plugged in and connected. All I have left finish is the alternator wiring just the 3 small wires for charge light, ref and ignition.

I played with the throttle and it appears that the rack is sticking in the pump :(. Supper bummed at this point, it's not sized bit it's sticking just off idle and then feels like it pops to full throttle. It felt a bit funny when I test ran it in December but I assumed it was due to the linkage being off. Turning on or off the fuel lever makes no noticeable difference.

Anyone with a P-pump have a non linear throttle feel? Or is nice and smooth from idle to may speed stop?

Really frustrated at this point.

I have the AFC housing 3/4 pulled so I can remove the torque plate and see the rack movement. From there I'm hoping I can pour some ATF in it to listen the gunk up. I have also added lubro moly diesel pump treatment I have seen it lose up sticky plungers before. I'm not sure if the rack moves and is lubed by oil or diesel tho.

Fun times, like I said before I have tearable luck and it looks like that's not ending any time soon.
 
On a positive note, sounds like you made significant progress with the wiring, sorry to hear your pump issues. I am sure you'll get it sorted in no time. I got nothing but a bunch of parts ordering done this whole weekend...too many family obligations this week.
 
Sorry to hear about the IP setback, sounds like you made great progress on the wiring though. Hope the IP is an easy fix!
 
So I was able to put a few hours in over the last two nights and have eliminated any pump issues. I took the AFC and fuel plate out to check rack travel. It's got full and smooth range of motion. The stiffness in the throttle is just the way the system works when the pump is not running on an engine. The foot contacts the fuel plate and stops the rack travel till the load increases and the Governor allows it to start moving up the plate. That is how it appears to work, with the AFC and fuel plate removed the rack and pedal move as one and are very smooth when using the pedal in the cab.

So I can continue on now with out worry.

Back to regularly schedule swap programing Sunday.
 
Hey man. Hats off to you! I just got an update from a post on your other thread and did a little catching up. Your commitment is incredible!

I sold my 4bd1t 80 to Georgia and switched to a 100 about a year ago. Actually bought an 80 a few months back to do the 6bt in but just not the right time to head down that road again...but if I do I'll know where to look once again for how to do it! Now I'm stewing on finding something for the 100...

Keep it up!
 
Thanks! I had heard you sold your 80. Glad your still in the cruisers. I'll let you take my 6bt 80 for a drive next time we are in the area before you start your own swap. Only way to know if you will be happy.
 
Started with the turbo, I wanted to get the Wastegate actuator mounted.


I built the braket off the oil drain bolts so the braket will go between the turbo and drain. Seems to fit well and should work.














From there it was on to downpipe, I got a Keating Machine He351cw to 3" pipe. So I got a tight radius 90* to come out of the turbo. With it I have about 1.5" clearance from the fire wall. I am going to run the exhaust down the inside of the frame. I got it assembled to the crossmember. Just need to build another 2ft to connect to the aero muffler. The rest of the exhaust will be the same as before.


Please also note no more Fram filter..... Friends don't let friend use Fram. It's a Donaldson.











From there it's onto the intercooler. This is as big as we can fit in out trucks without going very custom. It's tight and a bit of a challenge to get it just right.











Holes for the intercooler pipes.








Intercooler silicone elbows are 3" to 2.5" 90* and appear they will work great. Pipes are. Going to be a total bitch but doable. It will be an entire day to get thoes 5ft of pipe made to fit lol.





 
Looks good. I can see the top mounts which look clean. Are there any bottom or side mounts on the intercooler? You are going to have all sorts of fun with the piping :)
 
Dirty Koala said:
Looks good. I can see the top mounts which look clean. Are there any bottom or side mounts on the intercooler? You are going to have all sorts of fun with the piping :)
Click to expand...
Not yet, I used thoes two to set the location. When I am able to work on it again I plan to make the lowers. I needed to get the lower facia on to set the final position of the bottom support tabs.

Yes the pipping is going to suck to make.
 
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