- Thread starter
- #441
I believe that is the one I got also.
Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thanks for the motor mount pics!So cool to see this coming together and so well documented.Maybe I missed it but are you running any body lift? How is the clearance between the front diff and the oil pan?
- Thread starter
- #443
No body lift and lots of pan clearance. I'll get pictures this weekend when I work on it again.
Jeremy, I may have missed it, but which motor mounts did you go with? Yours are clearly new with plenty of height to them. I think mine are a ittle compressed, so may swap out to new ones.
- Thread starter
- #445
1st Gen cummins engine mounts. Not sure if they will work with Dustin's engine brakets.
- Thread starter
- #446
Today I had grand plans of getting lots of small things done....... Only got 1 complete and a few others partly done. I hate working like this, would much rather get one project done at a time but it was just not in the cards today due to variouse issues.
I did get my cross member welded and complete.
I also completed the shifter and have it setup in a comfortable position.
Got 90% of the wiring done.
Got the crank sensor done and installed (2 wire).
Got the t case shifter base partly done. Actually had an idea once I got home that will make it much cleaner and easier. So once I get time next Sunday to work on it again I'll finish that.
Looked at the throttle cable setup...... For a good 20min just looking at it. I have a lokar universal cable I'll need to make work.
From here I really did not want to start other things that I would get 1/2 done.
I also looked at the intercooler and that is going to be a s*** show I can tell already lol. It's going to be a lot of careful pipe work.
I rest fit the Keatingmachine.com He351cw to 3" adapter for my exhaust. Again did not want to go too far here as I do not have all the bends I need and it would have been another 1/4 done project.
I really wanted to get the clutch pedal in today but I just could not bring myself to spend half my day frustrated under the dash. I need to do it just procrastinating. I also need to roll the truck forward a few feet as the hoist post limits how much I can open the door.
Anyways, unfortunately that is all for this week. I'll likely not be able to work on it again till next Sunday.
I did get my cross member welded and complete.
I also completed the shifter and have it setup in a comfortable position.
Got 90% of the wiring done.
Got the crank sensor done and installed (2 wire).
Got the t case shifter base partly done. Actually had an idea once I got home that will make it much cleaner and easier. So once I get time next Sunday to work on it again I'll finish that.
Looked at the throttle cable setup...... For a good 20min just looking at it. I have a lokar universal cable I'll need to make work.
From here I really did not want to start other things that I would get 1/2 done.
I also looked at the intercooler and that is going to be a s*** show I can tell already lol. It's going to be a lot of careful pipe work.
I rest fit the Keatingmachine.com He351cw to 3" adapter for my exhaust. Again did not want to go too far here as I do not have all the bends I need and it would have been another 1/4 done project.
I really wanted to get the clutch pedal in today but I just could not bring myself to spend half my day frustrated under the dash. I need to do it just procrastinating. I also need to roll the truck forward a few feet as the hoist post limits how much I can open the door.
Anyways, unfortunately that is all for this week. I'll likely not be able to work on it again till next Sunday.
- Thread starter
- #447
Oh also got the fuel lines connected and purged most the air out of the system.
Your cross member only has 2 holes...all the cool kid's are doing 4.
I was staring at my crank today trying to figure or a good way to mount the sensor...did you come up with anything creative? Since I have the fan relocation bracket, I can't use the OEM crank sensor bracket...which really ticked me off...would have been cake.
The pedals aren't that difficult, hopefully your seat is all the way back...or better yet pulled out.
I was staring at my crank today trying to figure or a good way to mount the sensor...did you come up with anything creative? Since I have the fan relocation bracket, I can't use the OEM crank sensor bracket...which really ticked me off...would have been cake.
The pedals aren't that difficult, hopefully your seat is all the way back...or better yet pulled out.
Did you modify the fuel pickup?
- Thread starter
- #450
Yeah I saw your hipster crossmember..... Lol
I don't have the fan relocation so it was no issue to use the factory mounting. I did need to adapt the 2 wire sensor though.
Seat is in my normal driving position...... So I plan to pull it out.
Fuel pick up is easy, pictures are in my Isuzu swap thread. I plan to run the stock hose for now from tank to pump. I will be up grading to 1/2 hose at a later date.
- Thread starter
- #451
Went to my local parts shop today to get some metric bolts. While I was there I looked at there huge selection of AN hydrolic fittings. I found these very cool tight radius elbows. They will work perfect for both out of the pump (tight with engine mount) and inlet to box.
For thoes making a parts number shopping list.
For thoes making a parts number shopping list.
Nice find. I picked up my 90's from jegs, I would love to have a local hydraulic shop...closest one that I know about is 45 mins away.
I have collected a large assortment of hardware over the past 2 years, mostly metric and JIS. Checkout boltdepot.com they have a really good selection and sell large steel trays/rack for organizing your hardware.
I have collected a large assortment of hardware over the past 2 years, mostly metric and JIS. Checkout boltdepot.com they have a really good selection and sell large steel trays/rack for organizing your hardware.
Last edited:
Huh?
Still needs to be crimped on a matching hose, and that will only work if you have the right hose for that type fitting and the right dies and crimper for that fitting and hose. Let me reiterate that for anyone reading, fittings need to be matched to the right hose and the right dies or you run the risk of blowing said fitting off hose.
That's an extremely common style fitting though, the short 90. Any hydraulic shop should have those.
Still needs to be crimped on a matching hose, and that will only work if you have the right hose for that type fitting and the right dies and crimper for that fitting and hose. Let me reiterate that for anyone reading, fittings need to be matched to the right hose and the right dies or you run the risk of blowing said fitting off hose.
That's an extremely common style fitting though, the short 90. Any hydraulic shop should have those.
- Thread starter
- #454
Correct.
I got the fittings first to measure for hose length. Once I have that I will get the hose length needed and sort out orientation then get it crimped.
You can not use just any hose on this, it's hydrolic high pressure hose rated for far more pressure than our power steering will see.
Oh I gotcha! Sorry for the confusion. I was thinking maybe you thought that was an adapter or something, I don't know...
As for the hose, each brand and series of fitting is matched to a brand and style of hydraulic hose. And this is more for anyone who reads this as I don't wnant someone to order fittings online only to find out their local hydraulic shop cant use them with their dies and hose.
- Thread starter
- #456
Good point, the parts store I got the fittings from only deals in Goodyear hydrolics so all there fitting hoes and die are matched.
I also plan to get a 2nd hose made as a trail spare for the truck as it will be one of the few custom parts needed.
I spoke to my localish hose shop last week. I am going to have them make up my hose and a spare later this week. What pressure rated hose would you guys recommend? The hose that the shop suggested is rated to 2250 psi in a 5/16th variant...I think this is strong enough for our systems, but I also know @maxamillion2345 is running 5000 psi hose.
Here is the Hose recommended by the shop
Here is the Hose recommended by the shop
- Thread starter
- #458
He operating pressure of our systems is not too crazy. I believe it's about 1500psi,the thing you need to watch out for is the pressure spikes, they can really beat us hoses.
I had a power steering hose I made out of stainless branded AN blow apart years ago before I understood the pressures involved. Worked great for a year then one hard opposite lock coming out of a corner blew it apart.
That is what I am concerned with. Seems like a lot of the higher pressure rated hoses aren't as suitable for high temp (engine bays).
This hose may be more suitable
I have used these fitting this hose in the past with great success. Along with having the local Parker store build me some lines, it is much easier and more convenient to use the field serviceable stuff. Plus you can go to mose CAT stores and get what you need, but I tend to order most of my stuff and get a couple of extras from PSC.