Any one wire hydraulic hose should give you nearly 3k psi working pressure and much more burst pressure. I'd go 3/8 personally.
Build Lexus LX450 Cummins 6bt/NV4500 swap
- Thread starter Wheelingnoob
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Any one wire hydraulic hose should give you nearly 3k psi working pressure and much more burst pressure. I'd go 3/8 personally.
the thicker the hose the more of a pain it is to work with, especially if they are short hoses that need to bend.
The 2nd hose link I posted here is a 2 wire high temp hose rated to 4000 psi in 3/8, which for this hose is the right size for -6 JIC fittings. It's also very flexible, the bend radius is only 2.5" which should work well for me.
@Wheelingnoob I am looking forward to seeing your xfer case shifter mounting. I may need to modify mine a bit, my shifter is about an inch too far driver and would be perfectly placed if it were 2" further forward.
- Thread starter
- #464
Bit of an update from the 20min I had in the garage tonight.
Fit the new high pressure hydrolic hose, I opted for the 5100psi stuff way overkill but works. I assembled the hose and fitting then positioned it in place and marked there orientation.
I then got a pin to adapt the Dodge master to Toyota pedal. The Dodge master has a 1/2 pin so I found a 1/2 X 1" pin.
I the found a bolt that will be welded onto the clutch braket to eliminate the hard to reach bolt.
It's m8x1.25 just like the other it just looks off in the pick. The longer length will work fine with my Dodge master firewall adapter.
Thats all for tonight, tomorrow I get the hydrolic line crimped and a duplicate made.
Fit the new high pressure hydrolic hose, I opted for the 5100psi stuff way overkill but works. I assembled the hose and fitting then positioned it in place and marked there orientation.
I then got a pin to adapt the Dodge master to Toyota pedal. The Dodge master has a 1/2 pin so I found a 1/2 X 1" pin.
I the found a bolt that will be welded onto the clutch braket to eliminate the hard to reach bolt.
It's m8x1.25 just like the other it just looks off in the pick. The longer length will work fine with my Dodge master firewall adapter.
Thats all for tonight, tomorrow I get the hydrolic line crimped and a duplicate made.
That hard to reach bolt is a pain, but not too bad once you remove the computer that blocks access.
I plan to get my hose made up tomorrow, is your line about 15"?
I plan to get my hose made up tomorrow, is your line about 15"?
- Thread starter
- #466
Fitting centreline to centreline is 13 3/8th. Don't take my hose length for Gospel though. It's going to be different from swap to swap I think.
I haven't measured mine yet, was planning on doing that tomorrow, but eyeballing it I thought it was about 15".
- Thread starter
- #468
I first got the hose cut to 14" and then cut off 4ish inches. When it was 14" it put an awful lot of stress on the fittings. If you want more hose I would make the box side fitting a 45* so the hose has a more natural bend.
- Thread starter
- #469
I was on daddy duty a lot this last week so did not have any time to do anything other than get the high pressure power steering line crimped.
Today my parents offered to look after the little one for a few hours.
So with that offer accepted I got to work.
I wanted to finish the t case shifter base and start on the boot system to seal it all. I was able to get the shifter best all done and mounted. It's nice and solid so will be no issues there.
I then started to trying to get the boots positioned and a plate to cover the holes left over.
Rubber shifter boot from a 2nd Gen 4runner.
Looks factory.
I'm making an aluminum cover for the holes you can see here. It will actually cover the entire area the old shifter plate would cover. I also plan to make a spot to mount the ABS sensor.
2nd Gen 4runner "leather" shifter boot over the rubber.
The "leather" boot will be dyed black and mounted the the stock 80 series console.
I also got the power steering line installed and few other little things worked on. Tomorrow I hope to finish the shifter cover and start on the pedals and get the t case installed.
Today my parents offered to look after the little one for a few hours.
So with that offer accepted I got to work.
I wanted to finish the t case shifter base and start on the boot system to seal it all. I was able to get the shifter best all done and mounted. It's nice and solid so will be no issues there.
I then started to trying to get the boots positioned and a plate to cover the holes left over.
Rubber shifter boot from a 2nd Gen 4runner.
Looks factory.
I'm making an aluminum cover for the holes you can see here. It will actually cover the entire area the old shifter plate would cover. I also plan to make a spot to mount the ABS sensor.
2nd Gen 4runner "leather" shifter boot over the rubber.
The "leather" boot will be dyed black and mounted the the stock 80 series console.
I also got the power steering line installed and few other little things worked on. Tomorrow I hope to finish the shifter cover and start on the pedals and get the t case installed.
Nice work. Did you get the xfer case shifter mount sorted yet? I'd be interested in how you did yours.
Looking good! U be done in no time.
- Thread starter
- #472
Yes I got the t case shifter mount all done painted and installed. I had so little time today I did not stop for pic's. IL try and get one tomorrow.
Thanks SesDrifter.
Thanks SesDrifter.
- Thread starter
- #473
Today I got the floor opening for the shifters sealed up. Took some 1/16th aluminum and cut it into shape. Went fairly smoothly, I still need to add some paint to the cut areas underneath and seal it to the floor.
I had wanted to get the transfercase in today but did not have dowel pins so wasted 2 hours to trying to get them out of my old one. Frustrating but I moved on resigned to ordering them from Toyota tomorrow.
I moved onto the clutch pedal. This went far easier than expected. Hardest part was drilling the holes.
Wish I got a manual transmission brake pedal......
So make your own.
Needed to move the foot pad over closer to the accelerator pedal.
Cut the pedal pad to the same. As the clutch and put on the pedal rubber.
Adapter for dodge master and slave kit. This will eliminate the issues with miss match master and slave.
That unfortunatly is all I got done this weekend. Feel like I'm spend a lot of time on simple things but I just don't want to half ass anything.
I had wanted to get the transfercase in today but did not have dowel pins so wasted 2 hours to trying to get them out of my old one. Frustrating but I moved on resigned to ordering them from Toyota tomorrow.
I moved onto the clutch pedal. This went far easier than expected. Hardest part was drilling the holes.
Wish I got a manual transmission brake pedal......
So make your own.
Needed to move the foot pad over closer to the accelerator pedal.
Cut the pedal pad to the same. As the clutch and put on the pedal rubber.
Adapter for dodge master and slave kit. This will eliminate the issues with miss match master and slave.
That unfortunatly is all I got done this weekend. Feel like I'm spend a lot of time on simple things but I just don't want to half ass anything.
Nice work on the floor plate and master adapter...looks clean.
You two are in a race to the finish line. Can't wait to see you guys get those diesels trucking down the road.
- Thread starter
- #476
Fairly sure Morgan is going to win this race. I'm stuck to one day a week to work on it and basically everything from here I need to fabricate.
I'm looking forward to see how they come together.
Since I work 2.5 hrs from home, I am limited to the weekends also, which normally translates to bits of one day after factoring in daddy duty and husbandly duties. Can't wait to hear these fire up. Jeremy, make sure you video that.
- Thread starter
- #478
Had an hour after work today to get a little bit done. I wanted to test fit the 1.5" sch 40 cast steel elbow to see if it would work for the cold water inlet to the engine.
Most adapters just come straight out the side of the block. I wanted to do a 90* down out of the block to make lower rad hose selection easier. The hoes used with Dustin's kit I did not like the angles it was forced into so I'm hoping this elevates it and makes getting a replacement easy.
Just tacked in for test fitting. I plan to put a 1"-2" straight section on the end of this for a bead.
You can just see the elbow if you zoom in on this pic.
I did fit the rad and it's all good, lots of clearance even with the 1st gen Cummins fan on.
Thursday night I hope to have the missing dowel pin from Toyota and can get the t case in. My parents (mom) offered to look after my son for a few hours while my dad gives me a hand.
Most adapters just come straight out the side of the block. I wanted to do a 90* down out of the block to make lower rad hose selection easier. The hoes used with Dustin's kit I did not like the angles it was forced into so I'm hoping this elevates it and makes getting a replacement easy.
Just tacked in for test fitting. I plan to put a 1"-2" straight section on the end of this for a bead.
You can just see the elbow if you zoom in on this pic.
I did fit the rad and it's all good, lots of clearance even with the 1st gen Cummins fan on.
Thursday night I hope to have the missing dowel pin from Toyota and can get the t case in. My parents (mom) offered to look after my son for a few hours while my dad gives me a hand.
That elbow looks like it will fit nicely. Will also make changing hoses from underneath the truck pretty simple. What are you going to do for a seal? Use the OEM square edge o-ring?
- Thread starter
- #480
Yes square o ring.