Let the ideas flow! Bulletproof 60, that will NEVER rust? my restoration (I think)

Joined
Oct 12, 2004
Messages
3,062
Hey everyone,
I have been struggling with the question of what to do with my 1987 FJ-60, Fix it, sell it, trail rig, etc. The history of my truck is as follows, I am the second owner; I have owned it since 2000. The original owner trashed the truck in MANY ways, body, interior, and engine, etc. If I could do it over, my truck was NOT a good starting point; however it is what it is! Now seven years later and MANY thousands of dollars later, it needs to be re-restored again. The money spent in the past 7 years was to fix the rust, which has come back, and repair the frame which now should be replaced. Also much was done in the way of mechanical issues, but the engine could you use a rebuilding and the trans as well. Over the summer I had to add up all the 60 bills, and I was sick! Also last March the truck was damaged by two punk kids, paint was keyed.

Well as a result of my gas pedal sticking I dropped the 60 at the Land Cruiser shop to be repaired.
I asked him to evaluate my truck, as far as restoration. He feels that the frame should be replaced, with a approx labor rate of $2500, about $600 for the frame, and about $500 for odds and ends. With respect to the body, he feels that it needs about $3800 worth of rust repair and paint. I do trust that the body rust repair wil be done correctly by the "Cruiser" shop. After that the interior should be "gone over" as well as the engine, and trans. I have new springs for the truck waiting to go in. So I guess for somewhere in the area of $10,000 I could have a "new" Cruiser.

I realize that I could sell my truck and start whith a better example, but then I would lose thousands of dollars in parts, OEM bumpers, OEM carb, OEM PS pump, soon to have rebuilt JIM C Dizzy, redone AC system, and I can go on. So for what I would get for the entire, would be small compared to the sum of parts.

So if I was to "restore/rebuild" my 60, what direction should I go in? What are the ways to ensure the I would have a BULLETPROOF 60? I would go any length to prevent rust. With respect to the frame, what do you think about hot dip galvinizing? What other ideas do you have to make it the best 60 that it could be? Would I end with a better product if I reworked my 60? The benefit to my 60 is that "I know my truck" Even a "rust free" 60 would not have a galvinized frame!

Any ideas, tips, feelings, etc? I know this is a long post, and thank you for reading it and giving me your ideas.

Zack
 
Joined
Jun 20, 2004
Messages
2,346
Location
Round Rock, TX
Hey everyone,
I have been struggling with the question of what to do with my 1987 FJ-60, Fix it, sell it, trail rig, etc. The history of my truck is as follows, I am the second owner; I have owned it since 2000. The original owner trashed the truck in MANY ways, body, interior, and engine, etc. If I could do it over, my truck was NOT a good starting point; however it is what it is! Now seven years later and MANY thousands of dollars later, it needs to be re-restored again. The money spent in the past 7 years was to fix the rust, which has come back, and repair the frame which now should be replaced. Also much was done in the way of mechanical issues, but the engine could you use a rebuilding and the trans as well. Over the summer I had to add up all the 60 bills, and I was sick! Also last March the truck was damaged by two punk kids, paint was keyed.

Well as a result of my gas pedal sticking I dropped the 60 at the Land Cruiser shop to be repaired.
I asked him to evaluate my truck, as far as restoration. He feels that the frame should be replaced, with a approx labor rate of $2500, about $600 for the frame, and about $500 for odds and ends. With respect to the body, he feels that it needs about $3800 worth of rust repair and paint. I do trust that the body rust repair wil be done correctly by the "Cruiser" shop. After that the interior should be "gone over" as well as the engine, and trans. I have new springs for the truck waiting to go in. So I guess for somewhere in the area of $10,000 I could have a "new" Cruiser.

I realize that I could sell my truck and start whith a better example, but then I would lose thousands of dollars in parts, OEM bumpers, OEM carb, OEM PS pump, soon to have rebuilt JIM C Dizzy, redone AC system, and I can go on. So for what I would get for the entire, would be small compared to the sum of parts.

So if I was to "restore/rebuild" my 60, what direction should I go in? What are the ways to ensure the I would have a BULLETPROOF 60? I would go any length to prevent rust. With respect to the frame, what do you think about hot dip galvinizing? What other ideas do you have to make it the best 60 that it could be? Would I end with a better product if I reworked my 60? The benefit to my 60 is that "I know my truck" Even a "rust free" 60 would not have a galvinized frame!

Any ideas, tips, feelings, etc? I know this is a long post, and thank you for reading it and giving me your ideas.

Zack

Find yourself a clean, rust-free western FJ60 with a tired or dead drivetrain (cheap) and then combine the two. It will be *much* cheaper.
 
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Messages
246
Location
Winter Haven, Fl
I feel your pain, I am in the same boat. I personally will never sell my cruiser, it is my first and I've put so much damn time and money into it no one would pay what I would ask for it. So my plan is to find another one (or several) and keep at least one of them alive for as long as possible.
 
Joined
Oct 12, 2004
Messages
3,062
I feel your pain, I am in the same boat. I personally will never sell my cruiser, it is my first and I've put so much damn time and money into it no one would pay what I would ask for it. So my plan is to find another one (or several) and keep at least one of them alive for as long as possible.

It is so sad to be in this boat!


Zack
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2006
Messages
6,157
Location
Ft. Worthless, TEXAS!
i dont think i could ever let mine go unless i absolutly had to due to some unknown reason to me. i know ill never get my money back out of it but you dont "modify" a vehicle and expect to get the money back esp. when you are running it between trees and over rocks ect ect ect.
 
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
182
Location
Tucson, AZ
Exiled is right. Don't sell your existing truck, you'll never get back the money you put into it. I have an 83 FJ60 that has lived in Tucson it's whole life and rust just is not an issue. Buy an Arizona vehicle, preferably the same year as yours, while not common, there are usually a few in the local Auto Trader every month. Combine the best of each and you'll have a solid vehicle for much less than if you did it piecemeal. Of course both trucks will be 20+ years old, so no matter what, you're going to have to spring for some new parts.

HTH

Matt
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2006
Messages
121
Location
Sydney - Australia
I can relate to this aswell.

The Rust in my 60 was repaired a few years ago (Mainly in the roof).

And now it is back.

It has been owned since new by my dad, and i couldn't live with myself if i sold it (even if i'm working for a few years to get it to a good stage).

In my opinion Keep the Rig, spend the money, get it done properly and look after it (not saying you haven't).

I'm currently in the process of thinking up a way so that when my 60 is restored, the rust won't come back for along time.

I will be moulding up a custom Fiberglass roof with alumium frame and that will get rid of the rust problem in the roof. At some stage in the future if the product we make is good enough, then it may be come a cheap option to helping remove the rust in the roof of the 60's - The panel to replace just the top skin is 2500 from toyota + fitting.

Will keep an eye on this thread.

Dan
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2006
Messages
5,695
Location
calgary
ERPS (electronic rust prevention system) for the rust. Just google it. It would be cheaper to buy a used cruiser with no rust i think. I wonder what it would cost to drag back a diesel for ya, there an 85 diesel in the paper here for 2K.
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2006
Messages
144
Location
Chattanooga
Hey man
I feel your pain.

I was in the same boat.
In fact, I am going to go pick up my truck tonight!

I spent a little over 10K myself, to restore my 60
that I've owned for 7 yrs. Has 100K, and solid as
a rock.
That's not including another 4K in miscellaneous
mechanical work.

Had pretty bad rust along gutters and up into the roof.
Replaced it w/ fiberglass
But my Frame was clean.

I could never have gotten out of it what it was worth to me.
So like you said, I put my money into the truck I knew.

And I have no regrets at this point...;)

We'll see..

posted this thread last week w/ some pics
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=144340

Good luck man:cheers:
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 23, 2005
Messages
119
I'm going agree with the others. Either find a better example and use the 2 to make 1 good crusher, or just bite the bullet and put the $$ into the one you have.

If you're going to re-do the one you have, try POR15 or some other rust prohibitor to stop/prevent future rust. Use fiberglass instead of metal or bondo to repair damaged areas and fiberglass/aluminum parts when available. As I've stated before, not only will you reduce weight, thus saving fuel, you'll also have parts that will outlast the truck!:cheers:

IF you decide a frame off resto is in your plans. I'd dip it to make sure ALL the nooks and crannies inside and out are coated.

With the right prevention methods, you should be good for another 10-20 years+:cheers:

Best of luck with your truck.


BTW MYTANK... the fiberglass/aluminum roof panel sounds great!!!....can't wait to see how it turns oout. Any time line?
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2005
Messages
290
Location
Davidson, NC
The majority of us seem to face the same issue at one point or another.
I for one disagree with the "find a western truck and startover" approach.
It's just not the same as the truck you have worked on for 7 years.
I am currently facing the same issue with my 4 year cruiser (83K miles) and just got the estimate from the restoration shop. It was an agonizing decision to make -

My cruiser is now on eBay to see what I can get out of it - if it sells, I plan on getting a "regular" newer truck (eg, Tundra) and then hopefully moving into a 40 series armed with the knowledge of how important "rust-free" is.
However, I have it listed with a high price and actual hope it does not sell - then I won't feel so guilty pouring the money in and keeping it.
This is the only way I could convince the wife to go along with the plans for restoration.

It truly sucks.
 
Joined
May 15, 2003
Messages
1,235
Location
Lafayette, CO
I was in the same situation a few years back

....'cept my New England Cruiser's Frame had succomb to the salty winters. I was very patient and found a totally rust free CA Desert FJ60 with a blwn motor. I took all the good stuff off mine and put it on the 'new' one...(including an H55F).

All in all...I'm on on the up side of things...even I just don't have to worry about the rust coming back after a repair, I'd consider that a success.
 
Joined
May 15, 2003
Messages
1,235
Location
Lafayette, CO
I was in the same situation a few years back

....'cept my New England Cruiser's Frame had succomb to the salty winters. I was very patient and found a totally rust free CA Desert FJ60 with a blwn motor. I took all the good stuff off mine and put it on the 'new' one...(including an H55F).

All in all...I'm on on the up side of things...even I just don't have to worry about the rust coming back after a repair, I'd consider that a success.
 
Joined
May 15, 2003
Messages
1,235
Location
Lafayette, CO
I was in the same situation a few years back

....'cept my New England Cruiser's Frame had succomb to the salty winters. I was very patient and found a totally rust free CA Desert FJ60 with a blwn motor. I took all the good stuff off mine and put it on the 'new' one...(including an H55F).

All in all...I'm on on the up side of things...even I just don't have to worry about the rust coming back after a repair, I'd consider that a success.
 
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
1,104
Location
Denver, CO
Where on the Frame should i be looking for rust?

My rig has lived in CO all its life but I'd like to know anyway.
 
Joined
May 15, 2003
Messages
1,235
Location
Lafayette, CO
Rear of Frame.

I was quite naive at the time, but It was OBVIOUS once I took a good look at it. it was bad from around where the axle intersected the frame... all the way back. Especially where the rear spring shackle hanger was. I could stick my hand through a hole. bad. the rear cross member had rotted out, the steel piece sheilding the fuel re-breather apparatus was gone...

but really, those of us in CO don't have nearly as much to worry about. The salt in Mass. killed my first cruiser. (sigh). But Heck! I still have the heart and soul of the car I learned to drive on! As a brand new Cruiser my Mom bought in 85.
 
Joined
Oct 12, 2004
Messages
3,062
So where is the mecca of RUST FREE 60's that have bad engines or trans and t/cases? I would love to find a rust free body and frame with a bad motor!


Zack
 
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
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Port Coquitlam
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www.flickr.com
It's amazing how many of us have the same problem and headaches. When will we ever grow up - ah who cares, it's a cruiser thing.
I, like the many before me, have the same issue, it is my first Cruiser and I have put a lot into it, to get just my money back (not including all the labour which I do myself) I would need to sell it for around $18,000. I still keep looking for that dumb rich kid who'll take it.
Right now I am toying with a frame swap, some body work, rewiring the harness, adding a turbo, etc. etc.
I would love to buy a JDM but what the hell would I do with mine, and of course I would have to spend more money on the JDM to make it trail worthy.
Does it ever end.
As for frame galvanizing, I am seriously looking into it, so far the info I have is that up here it costs $1.05 a pound, but the process heats up the frame to around 850 deg. F. Since I do not have a frame jig or the space for one, I am worried that if it warps then I'm screwed.
I do know there is a guy in BC that built an entire body out of aluminum (from scratch) for his 60. If kind of looks like a 60 crossed with an old Land Rover.
 
Joined
May 15, 2003
Messages
1,235
Location
Lafayette, CO
So where is the mecca of RUST FREE 60's that have bad engines or trans and t/cases? I would love to find a rust free body and frame with a bad motor!

There is no quick answer for this. Patience is your friend. I spent about 12months seriously looking for my Cruiser. The Desert SW or Texas are Great places to start your search. Cars.com and autotrader.com are places to start looking, scanning, etc...you'll get a feel for what's out there, and perhaps stumble upon what you are looking for.

I probably looked at over 12 crusiers locally, and investigated another 10 or so 'remotely' (read as, asked lots of questions and requested many pictures).

My story goes like this...after about 9months of seriously looking around, I posted a Cruiser Wanted ad on SOR's website. about three weeks later, this kid calls me to say, "hey, you should call my Dad, he has a perfect Cruiser and worked at Edwards AFB. He Blew the motor in SLC on the way to Glenwood Springs, CO for his new job. you should call him." I did...he told me, "thanks, for the call, but I love this Cruiser and plan to fix it." Another month or so goes by and I get a call..."Hey, you still want that Cruiser?" I asked someone on this board, or another(?) to snap a bunch of pics....the rest is history. The first time I saw it in person was about 2months after paying for it. (well, I did have my motor swapped, and the 5speed put in)... :)
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
615
Location
Evergreen, Colorado
I agree that for a clean one you have to look HARD! They are out there, I see pics of them on here quite often, same story with 4Runners and Pickups pre 1990. I almost s*** my pants when I see any toyota 4x4 of that era without rust above the rear wheels. As far as restoration, ouch, I don't even want to know what it would cost to get all the sheetmetal pieces from toyota (or even aftermarket), and have them properly treated, coated, installed correctly, and have them last unless you are a pro body man. Like said before, it all boils down to what your 60 is worth to you. Finding a rust free specimen that runs and combining it with yours to make a trail rig and a nice rig is a good idea, but if you live in a rust belt, your rust free cruiser will probably show signs of rust within a few years. You would almost have to dip the thing in bedliner in real salty areas to never see rust, even then, you will see it. I think the worst part on the 60's to look out for is the rear section of the frame, I have only seen a few that didnt have that second layer rippling, bubbling, and separating from the rest of the truck. uuuuugh, what a depressing thread.
 

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