Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40

[S4Cruiser]

Headlights work now...forgot to hook up the relays to power! Is it normal for the bib lights (small round ones) to turn off when switching on the headlights? They come on at the first turn to the left but on the second turn to left they turn off when the head lamps turn on. When I turn the switch to the right nothing happens.

Ih8wiring

 

[middlecalf]

Yes, elephant horns ground to the fenders through their mounts.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Ugh...spent off an on all day in b/w work meetings trying to figure our my electrical issues. I think most of my issues are due to the light housings not grounding because of paint and gaskets so i will need to ground them individually as I try to chase issues which adds time to time i don't have if I want to get this on the trailer tomorrow.

My plan tomorrow is to finish a couple wiring items then focus on getting it started so it can drive onto and off the trailer.

 

[red66toy]

Ugh...spent off an on all day in b/w work meetings trying to figure our my electrical issues. I think most of my issues are due to the light housings not grounding because of paint and gaskets so i will need to ground them individually as I try to chase issues which adds time to time i don't have if I want to get this on the trailer tomorrow.

My plan tomorrow is to finish a couple wiring items then focus on getting it started so it can drive onto and off the trailer.

Which light housings are not grounded you think?

 

[S4Cruiser]

Which light housings are not grounded you think?

The rear driver tail light was one issue. Blinkers decided not to work and then the tail lights (with headlights) wouldn’t work. Tried everything from a different blinker relay, etc. and what fixed it was adding a ground jumper wire. Remove wire and issue came back.

I also envision the horns and rear license plate light to be issues. I plan to confirm / fix those first thing in the morning.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Worked out most of my electrical issues and then the brand new optima red top went dead on me overnight then tested bad. New battery in now but no start issues.

I have oil pressure (the thing i was most worried about). Check points and they are set at .018 per factory spec. Have 12.5 volts at the coil with key in on position. Have gas in carb.

Timing set as it should be, all values cold adjusted.

What should I check now?

 

[S4Cruiser]

NVM - IT STARTS!!!!!

And sounds decent too.

 

[S4Cruiser]

The honeymoon phase of getting this running and to it's first event has faded and reality of the issues I currently need to sort through has set in.

1. Brakes - i have hardly any aside from the emergency brake. Geo metro master and booster with Toyota calipers up front and monte carlo calipers in the rear. The master has been bench bled 3 times and the lines have been bled 5-6 times with no noticeable change. There is hardly any peddle resistance with the truck turned off and zero peddle when running. Tried all the trick of tapping calipers, master, etc. to remove bubbles hiding somewhere. When bleeding after cracking one of the caliper bleeders, I get a short squirt of fluid and then just a slow trickle. Plan is to replace the master with a new one and see if that solves the issue.
2. Wiring #1 - when turning the ignition key to on, the 20amp horn fuse immediately pops. I've disconnected all the horn wiring but the fuse still pops. No clue where to start with this issue.
3. Wiring #2 - with the ignition key at the off position I have power to the cluster (fuel gauge works) and turn signals work (I do not have hazards wired in yet). Another issue that I am unsure of where to start troubleshooting.
4. Running - trucks starts ok but won't stay running without a decent amount of choke. Carb is a fresh rebuild from Mark so ruling out a carb issue. Distributor rotor pointing to #4 plug with pointer on the BB. Point gap set at factory .018. Also, with truck running I can't rotate the distributor to 650rpms without the truck dying. Coil is new, new plugs, wires and new non US distributor. At a loss where to start here too!

 

[red66toy]

The honeymoon phase of getting this running and to it's first event has faded and reality of the issues I currently need to sort through has set in.

1. Brakes - i have hardly any aside from the emergency brake. Geo metro master and booster with Toyota calipers up front and monte carlo calipers in the rear. The master has been bench bled 3 times and the lines have been bled 5-6 times with no noticeable change. There is hardly any peddle resistance with the truck turned off and zero peddle when running. Tried all the trick of tapping calipers, master, etc. to remove bubbles hiding somewhere. When bleeding after cracking one of the caliper bleeders, I get a short squirt of fluid and then just a slow trickle. Plan is to replace the master with a new one and see if that solves the issue.
2. Wiring #1 - when turning the ignition key to on, the 20amp horn fuse immediately pops. I've disconnected all the horn wiring but the fuse still pops. No clue where to start with this issue.
3. Wiring #2 - with the ignition key at the off position I have power to the cluster (fuel gauge works) and turn signals work (I do not have hazards wired in yet). Another issue that I am unsure of where to start troubleshooting.
4. Running - trucks starts ok but won't stay running without a decent amount of choke. Carb is a fresh rebuild from Mark so ruling out a carb issue. Distributor rotor pointing to #4 plug with pointer on the BB. Point gap set at factory .018. Also, with truck running I can't rotate the distributor to 650rpms without the truck dying. Coil is new, new plugs, wires and new non US distributor. At a loss where to start here too!

View attachment 3306092View attachment 3306093

How did you bleed the brakes? Pressure bleeder? I could not get the air out of my lines with my normally perfect pressure bleeder. The trick that worked was using the pressure bleeder and pumping the pedal as it bled. That combo of pressure and surges helped dislodge the stubborn air. I think I bled the entire system 8 times before I got it sorted.

Edit: I also need choke for the truck to drive well. Seems a lot of F135 owners experience the same thing. It will idle fine with no choke. But if I’m driving, I need it for sure.

 

[S4Cruiser]

How did you bleed the brakes? Pressure bleeder? I could not get the air out of my lines with my normally perfect pressure bleeder. The trick that worked was using the pressure bleeder and pumping the pedal as it bled. That combo of pressure and surges helped dislodge the stubborn air. I think I bled the entire system 8 times before I got it sorted.

Edit: I also need choke for the truck to drive well. Seems a lot of F135 owners experience the same thing. It will idle fine with no choke. But if I’m driving, I need it for sure.

I did the manual bleed route - pump x10 and hold while someone cracks the bleed screw. Start on farthest caliper and work around to the closest one. I followed this same method for my grey 40 and it worked perfect.

If this new master doesn't solve my issue then i will try a pressure or vacuum bleeder.

 

[tucker74]

RE: #1 - gravity bleed, start at longest run, open tube to cup of fluid, pump until fluid in tube and let sit keeping bowl full. Once longest rear run bled, usually can conveniently bleed others (have had to do both rears this way though).
RE: #2/3 - a lot of the wiring goes through the hazard switch, I’d get that installed before troubleshooting further.

Tucker

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I think you know this Jon, but make sure to bench bleed the master before you hook it up to the lines. New or old, if they're dry, gotta bench bleed it first, or you'll never get the air out of it.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I think you know this Jon, but make sure to bench bleed the master before you hook it up to the lines. New or old, if they're dry, gotta bench bleed it first, or you'll never get the air out of it.

Yeah that's why this has me stumped. It's been bench bled 3 times, manual bleed 5 times and gravity bled with very minimal peddle improvement. If the new master has the same no peddle issue then i plan to purchase a motive pressure bleeder and force lots of fluid through the lines.

 

[WildernessRimFab]

purchase a motive pressure bleeder and force lots of fluid through the lines.

Do it, you will not regret it. The pressure bleeder easily gets the firmest pedal with the least amount of effort.

 

[S4Cruiser]

New master cylinder had no effect even after vacuum bleeding. Motive pressure bleeder will be here Thursday to try again.

 

[S4Cruiser]

On an unrelated note, a couple years ago I happened upon a SD40 carb, couple of NOS keyster rebuild kits and a NOS Toyota float. Only bummer is no Aisin engraved plate but the glass looks to be in decent shape. Finally got around to calling Mark to have it rebuilt. Just shipped it off today for him to rebuild.

edit…I am pretty sure these kits came from Pakistan. Be aware that one kit was for a d40 and the other for a sd40 even both have the same part numbers. So don’t use this keyster part # and assume it will be for a sd40, have the seller verify it includes the large black rectangle gasket vs the smaller round one.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Motive power bleeder arrived a day early today so I ran some fluid through the brake lines after work.

First step was fixing the poor ass quality control of Motive…whomever crimped the hose to adapter destroyed the hose. Always pressure test your connections before adding fluid to the bleeder or you might have a mess on your hands - luckily I didn’t have to learn that the hard way.

I ran almost a quart of fluid through the brakes and the pedal still is not near as firm as it should be. I did see a few air bubbles from the front brakes but none from the rear. I will run another quart through it tomorrow or the weekend…if that doesn’t work I seriously have no clue.

 

[peesalot]

Have you tried using vise grips to crimp off rear axle soft line, check pedal, if still soft, crimp front axle soft line ( leave crimp on rear line) and check pedal if it is still soft get a new master cylinder.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Have you tried using vise grips to crimp off rear axle soft line, check pedal, if still soft, crimp front axle soft line ( leave crimp on rear line) and check pedal if it is still soft get a new master cylinder.

Thanks for the ideas. I have not done the crimp, check pedal feel, repeat. Will do that tomorrow.

This is the second master cylinder. First one was a rebuild, this one is new ACDELCO unit. No change from master to master unfortunately.

 

[peesalot]

The crimp test will hopefully reveal a hard pedal at some point then youll have a target. Curious what the bore ID is on the master you are using ? which toyota front calipers ? Horn fuse pop, isnt the horn run on the ground and power is at the horn/ horn relay and the button/switch in wheel switches ground ? is it wired backward somewhere in the circuit, that would explain the insta pop...