Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40 (2 Viewers)

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Can I also get one of those PM's, they may have two in at the same time.
 
Update from Machine Shop...

Head checks out and is done! No cracks :bounce:. Valves were gtg, guides replaced and new stem seals. Bores were on the verge of needing boring on some and slightly past such for others...so going with .020 pistons and rings. Will reuse oem rods. Crank slightly turned and will replace standard bearings with .010/.010. Cam will be polished with new bearings. All new freeze plugs (appropriate for this generation motor vs the 2F ones). New bearing shims (from SOR) and OEM gasket kit (from Mark's Offroad). Lifter bottoms ground/polished. Will reuse my current oil pump (still need to check it's spec...but I read I can flip one of the gears over if needed).

Super happy with the news there are no issues that cannot be reasonably addressed...rebuilding the F135 seems to be like Russian roulette.
 
Picked up my parts from the machine shop today, they look great! I hope to get time in the next couple weeks to get back on this build but it's gonna be tough...b/w a big local club event, mountain trip with the fam and then work trip to Europe.

Not sure if this is normal, but the main bearings supplied by the shop included TEQ shims!! I purchased ones from SOR but looks like I won't need them.



 
I'm not a harbor freight fanboy, but these look like they should work and are large enough (1/2" drive).

6 Pc 1/2 in. Drive Screwdriver Bit Socket Set

Sad but new Craftsman tool quality is darn near below that of Pittsburg tools from Harbor Freight. For the general wrench turner, Harbor Freight are half decent wrenches. Not all their stuff but some of it isn't too bad.

I still love my old school 25 year + Craftsman wrenches.
 
Was finally able to find some time today to do a little work on this. Pulled hood, both front fenders and running boards. Should be able to sawzall off the body mounts over the next couple days then drop the frame at the sand blaster.

On the running boards, there is a thin plastic peice b/w where they touch the body. Is that factory? Kinda neat, guess it was to help delay metal to metal contact.





Also...the damn windshield hinge screws got the best of me. Broke one HF 1/2 Phillips impact bit and a Proto one too. Ruined a chisel and wasted way too much time. Decided to just drill out the heads.

 
Jon

The guys from the Midwest taught me the value of the smoke wrench when it comes to things like the windshield hinge screws.

I’ve never done them cherry hot like some suggest, but even 30seconds with a propane torch will greatly increase the odds.

Those round head on the bottom of the rear license holder: same thing.

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Jon

The guys from the Midwest taught me the value of the smoke wrench when it comes to things like the windshield hinge screws.

I’ve never done them cherry hot like some suggest, but even 30seconds with a propane torch will greatly increase the odds.

Those round head on the bottom of the rear license holder: same thing.

I considered hitting them with the map gas torch but since I do not plan to paint this truck, thought the heat would/might damage (further) the paint? I’ve only drilled out a couple and would love to try some heat.
 
Jon

Happy thanksgiving!! Is this the 40 getting Pollux orange?
 
Jon

Happy thanksgiving!! Is this the 40 getting Pollux orange?

Happy turkey day to you too!

No, this is not the truck you are thinking of. I do not plan to paint this truck. Everything will be restored / new except the body. Trying something different on this one vs my grey truck.
 
I love me some lemonade around the holidays! Just read your whole thread! Let’s get this old girl ready for the relic run! Can’t wait to see it in person... Cheers.
 
Rolled the frame out yesterday, pulled the remaining bits off and the axles. Scraped / vacuumed close to 30lbs of dirt and mud from the frame rails! Power washed last night and then threw it on the trailer tonight. Hope to drop it off at the blaster this week.



 
Got super super super lucky and was able to obtain the correct rear view mirror! It’s got some pitting but not much really. Will need a new mirror cut but that should be simple for the glass man.

Can I hit the metal arm with some glass media in the blast cabinet or will that be too much for the pot metal?



 
Got super super super lucky and was able to obtain the correct rear view mirror! It’s got some pitting but not much really. Will need a new mirror cut but that should be simple for the glass man.

Can I hit the metal arm with some glass media in the blast cabinet or will that be too much for the pot metal?



Got the same one on my 67. The glass guy was worried about taking off the old one so he glued a new piece over it. Looks fine and was $20 here in mooresville. Not what I asked him to do, but it’s ok.
 
I would try a fine grit sandpaper first. Liking the build...all three boys on this end.
 

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