Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40

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The crimp test will hopefully reveal a hard pedal at some point then youll have a target. Curious what the bore ID is on the master you are using ? which toyota front calipers ? Horn fuse pop, isnt the horn run on the ground and power is at the horn/ horn relay and the button/switch in wheel switches ground ? is it wired backward somewhere in the circuit, that would explain the insta pop...

Master is from a geo metro - 0.813” bore.

Front brakes are discs - Toyota fj40/fj60
Rear brakes are discs - Monte Carlo

Your description of the horn circuit is correct. If I have nothing connected (no relay, no horn, no switch at the wheel) would it still pop instantly?
 
I found that using the motive bleeder and pumping the pedal helped dislodge stubborn air.
 
I found that using the motive bleeder and pumping the pedal helped dislodge stubborn air.
So you pressurize the bleeder to 15psi, crack bleeder screw and have someone pump the peddle a few times while the bleeder screw is cracked? Rinse and repeat a few times on each corner?
 
So you pressurize the bleeder to 15psi, crack bleeder screw and have someone pump the peddle a few times while the bleeder screw is cracked? Rinse and repeat a few times on each corner?
Yup! Except it was just me. Since it’s pressurized you crack it and not worry about air getting in. So I cracked it, had it bleeding into a large jar. Then went over to the pedal and I actually pumped it with my arm while I watched the bleed operation. That way I could see when the air bubbles stopped coming out or if the jar was getting too full. I went through a couple gallons of brake fluid.
 
Yup! Except it was just me. Since it’s pressurized you crack it and not worry about air getting in. So I cracked it, had it bleeding into a large jar. Then went over to the pedal and I actually pumped it with my arm while I watched the bleed operation. That way I could see when the air bubbles stopped coming out or if the jar was getting too full. I went through a couple gallons of brake fluid.
Dang! I haven't been through near that much so I will stop worrying and keep bleeding!
 
Dang! I haven't been through near that much so I will stop worrying and keep bleeding!
Yeah it was mega frustrating. Most of the fluid was before I figured out the pressure+pumping trick.
 
I know this is a few years old but do you have any photos of the wirng for this and how you integrated it to the older wiring harness? I am about to do this same thing to my 1964 FJ40.

Thanks

It has been a while but as I recall, i ended up remaking the front bib harness when installing these lights. It far easier and looks factory now that it is all wrapped.

I used the wiring instructions in the box with those lights and it was straightforward aside from cutting out a lot of the harness length that comes with them. I mounted the relays on the middle front portion on the passenger fender in the engine compartment and the inline fuses toward the middle rear of the same passenger fender. I can get pics of that if you would like.
 
It has been a while but as I recall, i ended up remaking the front bib harness when installing these lights. It far easier and looks factory now that it is all wrapped.

I used the wiring instructions in the box with those lights and it was straightforward aside from cutting out a lot of the harness length that comes with them. I mounted the relays on the middle front portion on the passenger fender in the engine compartment and the inline fuses toward the middle rear of the same passenger fender. I can get pics of that if you would like.
Ok that sounds like what I was thinking but If you can get pictures that would be great. I am for sure a visual person with that sort of thing. Also Durham! Not too far!

Thanks a bunch!
 
That is what I did. I just snipped the excess off and wired it into the fender junction block like the OG lights were. Works perfect.
 
That is what I did. I just snipped the excess off and wired it into the fender junction block like the OG lights were. Works perfect.
So really just the bulb connectors were used in the supplied wiring loom and thats it? just making sure before I start cutting and splicing haha. I am going to try and tackle this today or tomorrow. My seat upholstery is taking a pause because I had to buy more batting online.
 
So really just the bulb connectors were used in the supplied wiring loom and thats it? just making sure before I start cutting and splicing haha. I am going to try and tackle this today or tomorrow. My seat upholstery is taking a pause because I had to buy more batting online.
Dont want to take anything away from @S4Cruiser 's awesome thread. I posted some info here --> POST
 
On an unrelated note, a couple years ago I happened upon a SD40 carb, couple of NOS keyster rebuild kits and a NOS Toyota float. Only bummer is no Aisin engraved plate but the glass looks to be in decent shape. Finally got around to calling Mark to have it rebuilt. Just shipped it off today for him to rebuild.

edit…I am pretty sure these kits came from Pakistan. Be aware that one kit was for a d40 and the other for a sd40 even both have the same part numbers. So don’t use this keyster part # and assume it will be for a sd40, have the seller verify it includes the large black rectangle gasket vs the smaller round one.

View attachment 3310715View attachment 3310716View attachment 3310717
…and if the bowl gasket is folded over like that, it’s probably not going to be usable.
Fortunately for John, I had the foresight to have a hundred of them laser cut some time back.😉
 
Before
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After
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A master at work here!!

And a happy 44th birthday to me!!
 
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I’m back on finishing things not yet done. First order of business is getting the brakes working…which I think I have identified the lie,y issue…I didn’t check the booster pushrod for needing adjustment. A quick check last night was evident it needs lengthening about a 1/4” which would lead to a very soft pedal and no brakes. Going to pull the booster and master this week and adjust. Fingers crossed!
 
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I’m back on finishing things not yet done. First order of business is getting the brakes working…which I think I have identified the lie,y issue…I didn’t check the booster pushrod for needing adjustment. A quick check last night was evident it needs lengthening about a 1/4” which would lead to a very soft pedal and no brakes. Going to pull the booster and master this week and adjust. Fingers crossed!
Jon

If you don’t have the SST for the booster, here’s a pic of an easy diy one I lifted from the forum about ten years ago.
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