Builds Clifford is home again- a 1965 FJ40 FST

[mattressking]

Not Seattle area. That makes them defiant. They ease their socks and sandal clad foot up even more and glare at you in passive-aggressive angst in the rear view. Thinking ill thoughts about you, like you probably don’t have solar on your roof, or you don’t wash your recyclables before separating them into the appropriate bin or worse: you single use ziploc bags…. View attachment 3309118

They would have boxed me up perfectly

 

[middlecalf]

I must have lived in a different Seattle. I got the speeding ticket going 80mph on I405. In the right hand lane, and getting passed by others.

Slammed your thread Chase. Sorry ‘bout that.

 

[red66toy]

I must have lived in a different Seattle. I got the speeding ticket going 80mph on I405. In the right hand lane, and getting passed by others.

Slammed your thread Chase. Sorry ‘bout that.

Hahaha no its fine. I think its funny. I am happy I can add a slow moving tractor into the crazy Seattle mix now.

 

[red66toy]

Finally feeling better after a nasty sickness. I decided to finally start chipping away again at projects. One that has been waiting is wipers! Now normally I go straight for OEM, but this time I didn't even try to find OEM arms. Just too rare and you are stuck with the janky OEM blades. I want a wiper blade that actually works well.

After looking at the options, I opted for the ANCO 41-01 arms. Something about the speedway ones didn't look great to me. I used to have these ANCO arms and I like how strong they are. They have a nice quality to them. They have a 5mm bayonet standard which is an issue since most bayonet blades take 7mm. So I hunted down the ANCO adapters (47-91). Pretty stupid small part and over priced at a couple bucks. But they worked a treat. I was able to get a modern 11" ANCO blade to fit no problem. Nice! I feel like there is room for a 12" blade. That would be great since 12" blades seem to be more common than 11" and under. I am going to find a silver 11 or 12" blade and I'll be all set. Not a big fan of the black.

 

[red66toy]

I didn't want to derail @S4Cruiser 's build thread so I am continuing a discussion in my own personal build thread. @Roastchestnuts here is what I did for the updated Toyota headlight harness install in my early 40 series.
I did two main modifications to the harness. 1. I cut off the bulb power tap that the new harness uses to trigger the light relays. I have the new harness get it's activation power via the stock fender block. Not an original bulb connector.. since that got its power from the block anyways. Cleans it up a lot. Hopefully the pic below is clear:

I de-pinned the h4 bulb connectors and threaded the wires through the stock buckets, then re-pinned the connectors. I installed a new grommet as well to protect the wires:

Second is I trimmed a lot of excess wire out of the harness that led to the bulbs. Since its a universal harness it comes with A LOT of extra wire. On the driver's side I cut out 4'! I also trimmed wire from the fuse wires as well. I don't like stuffing tons of unnecessary wire away. Worth it to me to take the time and trim and have it clean. I have my fuses and relays mounted on a custom bracket next to the battery. (The bracket is painted now. This was a mockup photo). I don't like drilling holes and using factory bolt locations is always nice.

Hopefully that is helpful and clear as mud

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I didn't want to derail @S4Cruiser 's build thread so I am continuing a discussion in my own personal build thread. @Roastchestnuts here is what I did for the updated Toyota headlight harness install in my early 40 series.
I did two main modifications to the harness. 1. I cut off the bulb power tap that the new harness uses to trigger the light relays. I have the new harness get it's activation power via the stock fender block. Not an original bulb connector.. since that got its power from the block anyways. Cleans it up a lot. Hopefully the pic below is clear:
View attachment 3321021
I de-pinned the h4 bulb connectors and threaded the wires through the stock buckets, then re-pinned the connectors. I installed a new grommet as well to protect the wires:
View attachment 3321014
Second is I trimmed a lot of excess wire out of the harness that led to the bulbs. Since its a universal harness it comes with A LOT of extra wire. On the driver's side I cut out 4'! I also trimmed wire from the fuse wires as well. I don't like stuffing tons of unnecessary wire away. Worth it to me to take the time and trim and have it clean. I have my fuses and relays mounted on a custom bracket next to the battery. (The bracket is painted now. This was a mockup photo). I don't like drilling holes and using factory bolt locations is always nice.
View attachment 3321015
Hopefully that is helpful and clear as mud

Thanks a bunch! Between you and @wngrog I got the wiring done. these headlights are the best upgrade. also amazing for the price!

 

[red66toy]

Thanks a bunch! Between you and @wngrog I got the wiring done. these headlights are the best upgrade. also amazing for the price!

Glad you got it all installed! The price can’t be beat for sure!! A rare killer deal from Toyota.

 

[red66toy]

As with all 40 owners, and especially the early ones, the hunt for parts to replace ones lost to time is a constant endeavor. A couple parts that I have been hunting for a while now are the early rear soft top bracket parts! Then like a miracle... two rare parts presented themselves! I found that Heritage Cruisers makes an early reproduction lower bracket! And @Indygbd came in with the even rarer upper brackets! Thank you! I was thinking I was going to have to make custom janky version. hahaha.
So nice to have these now.

 

[Indygbd]

As with all 40 owners, and especially the early ones, the hunt for parts to replace ones lost to time is a constant endeavor. A couple parts that I have been hunting for a while now are the early rear soft top bracket parts! Then like a miracle... two rare parts presented themselves! I found that Heritage Cruisers makes an early reproduction lower bracket! And @Indygbd came in with the even rarer upper brackets! Thank you! I was thinking I was going to have to make custom janky version. hahaha.
So nice to have these now.
View attachment 3331482

I’m glad you needed them! If you need anything else let me know.

 

[red66toy]

I was trouble shooting the non-functioning horn and found some loose wires... easy fix and the horn works! But the button on the wheel doesn't. Took the wheel apart and the horn contact ring-pin combo is clapped out corroded and broken. So its time to make a new one. @TheNeek and I have been working away on a pressed metal reproduction part for @Cruiser Cult . Should be a very close match in form to the original. Excited for that to come to fruition.

While the wheel is off and the cruiser non-op I decided to dive into to the gauge cluster to paint the face pewter and clean up the gauges. The speedometer didn't really work, gauge needles were bent (who knows why) and the bulbs and electrics were dirty. All the gauges seem to work so not replacing them thankfully since finding old stock replacements looks tricky. Should be fun all in all!
I love the layers of colors on the face.

 

[EWheeler]

I was trouble shooting the non-functioning horn and found some loose wires... easy fix and the horn works! But the button on the wheel doesn't. Took the wheel apart and the horn contact ring-pin combo is clapped out corroded and broken. So its time to make a new one. @TheNeek and I have been working away on a pressed metal reproduction part for @Cruiser Cult . Should be a very close match in form to the original. Excited for that to come to fruition.

While the wheel is off and the cruiser non-op I decided to dive into to the gauge cluster to paint the face pewter and clean up the gauges. The speedometer didn't really work, gauge needles were bent (who knows why) and the bulbs and electrics were dirty. All the gauges seem to work so not replacing them thankfully since finding old stock replacements looks tricky. Should be fun all in all!
I love the layers of colors on the face.
View attachment 3343113
View attachment 3343114

Don't like the reading on your oil pressure gauge? No problem, just bend the needle to bring the pressure reading into spec!

Nice work Chase

 

[red66toy]

Don't like the reading on your oil pressure gauge? No problem, just bend the needle to bring the pressure reading into spec!

Nice work Chase

That is what I was wondering!

 

[red66toy]

Trying to make progress on the 4 speed. I pulled the top cover and measured the syncros as @Skreddy suggested. Hopefully I did this right. Thank you to @Steamer for posting helpful pics in another thread.
1st syncro measured a little over 4mm (limit 2.8mm)

2nd measured over 3mm (limit 1.8mm).

3rd measured about 1.067mm (limit 0.8mm)

4th measured about 1.245mm (limit 0.8mm)
3rd and 4th were measured by pressing on the collar which reduced the gap. Not sure if that is the proper protocol. So the clearances are likely larger if that was wrong.
Output shaft has some wear:

Gears all spin smooth and look good so seems like I should just run this sucker. I have a rebuild kit for it and for the 3 speed transfer case from @orangefj45 just in case since I didn't know what I was getting into with this transmission.

 

[Steamer]

3rd and 4th were measured by pressing on the collar which reduced the gap. Not sure if that is the proper protocol.

I wasn't sure either but it sure made sense to me to push it in so the actual wear surface of the sync was making contact. Without pushing it in and making contact, I don't see how you could tell if it was a brand new sync or wore out one. That's what this first timer is believing anyway unless someone corrects me.

 

[red66toy]

Team work, when cruiserheads come together it's a beautiful thing.
I wasn't a fan of the fact that the early 40s didn't come with a coolant over flow bottle. I would come to a stop and coolant would dribble out of the over flow hose onto the ground. Not a lot but still, wasn't a fan. Thankfully there were two factory drilled holes on the radiator support.. more than enough to mount something to!
First the hunt for a good coolant over flow bottle... @Racer65 had the goods I needed (as usual). The round bottle aesthetic was the way to go for me. The parts for the mount (plate, clamp and hose holder) are made entirely out of stainless steel. Sourced OEM bolts for it as well to give it a factory look and keep the wrench sizes to 10 and 14mm . @TheNeek was kind enough to weld it all up for me. Team work.
Happy to have a clean over flow bottle with no added holes to the 40.

 

[Andrew S]

Chase, does your radiator cap have both rubber seals in it? Early caps sometimes don't have the upper seal, since they didn't need to hold vacuum and suck fluid back up the hose when cooling down.

Andrew

 

[red66toy]

Chase, does your radiator cap have both rubber seals in it? Early caps sometimes don't have the upper seal, since they didn't need to hold vacuum and suck fluid back up the hose when cooling down.

Andrew

Huh, good question! I will go peak and report back.

 

[V8FJ4078]

I didn't want to derail @S4Cruiser 's build thread so I am continuing a discussion in my own personal build thread. @Roastchestnuts here is what I did for the updated Toyota headlight harness install in my early 40 series.
I did two main modifications to the harness. 1. I cut off the bulb power tap that the new harness uses to trigger the light relays. I have the new harness get it's activation power via the stock fender block. Not an original bulb connector.. since that got its power from the block anyways. Cleans it up a lot. Hopefully the pic below is clear:
View attachment 3321021
I de-pinned the h4 bulb connectors and threaded the wires through the stock buckets, then re-pinned the connectors. I installed a new grommet as well to protect the wires:
View attachment 3321014
Second is I trimmed a lot of excess wire out of the harness that led to the bulbs. Since its a universal harness it comes with A LOT of extra wire. On the driver's side I cut out 4'! I also trimmed wire from the fuse wires as well. I don't like stuffing tons of unnecessary wire away. Worth it to me to take the time and trim and have it clean. I have my fuses and relays mounted on a custom bracket next to the battery. (The bracket is painted now. This was a mockup photo). I don't like drilling holes and using factory bolt locations is always nice.
View attachment 3321015
Hopefully that is helpful and clear as mud

When you cut the long wires shorter, did you cut and splice the wires or cut off and crimp new terminals on? If so, what terminals do you need for these?
I would like to shorten my wires as well, I just haven't gotten that far yet.

 

[red66toy]

When you cut the long wires shorter, did you cut and splice the wires or cut off and crimp new terminals on? If so, what terminals do you need for these?
I would like to shorten my wires as well, I just haven't gotten that far yet.

I cut and used butt splices with heat shrink seals. Much easier than getting the terminals for the connectors. I thought about going the connector route but didn't see the need.

 

[V8FJ4078]

I cut and used butt splices with heat shrink seals. Much easier than getting the terminals for the connectors. I thought about going the connector route but didn't see the need.

Thanks, that is what I was thinking as well. Thought I would see what you had done since I came across this as I was reading!