Leaking Timing Cover Gasket (1 Viewer)

[rstoddard]

It was strange. Suddenly, out of the blue, weeks after installing the cover/gasket, it started leaking a small amount of oil. I too did my best to follow the guidance when installing, although there was varying opinions on how much sealant to use. I went with a relatively light coat on both sides of the gasket.
Now, I haven’t been driving the vehicle much, mostly just running the engine to burp the radiator and to install a new P/S Pump.
When I saw the oil, I did crawl under the cover and inspected it pretty carefully. It seemed to be coming from the very bottom of the cover, near the drivers-side bolt.

Anyway, I cleaned it up, tightened the bolts and hoped for the best. So far, I haven’t seen any significant signs of oil, although there is signs of oil moisture still on the gasket.

It may be that the cover was slightly bent or at least not completely flat in that area and it just didn’t make a complete seal. I’m hoping that tightening the bolts will solve it, and they won’t loosen. Time will tell.

It definitely does not appear to be the Plate behind the timing gears, which would be a nightmare to pull to replace the gasket.

 

[rstoddard]

I am not aware of this topic ?

I read about it in various threads when I was researching the HB issues.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I read about it in various threads when I was researching the HB issues.

I personally would without question stake punch this new torx V - head machine screw that replaces the flat head

Just because it’s a torx does not mean it is an anti-stake feature ?

 

[pigvalve]

I personally would without question stake punch this new torx V - head machine screw that replaces the flat head

Just because it’s a torx does not mean it is an anti-stake feature ?

I personally would without question stake punch this new torx V - head machine screw that replaces the flat head

Just because it’s a torx does not mean it is an anti-stake feature ?

Toyota part#90149-10001 installed and staked.

 

[Oregon LC]

@rstoddard you've already got some really knowledgeable guys on this thread, but I wanted to share my lessons as it may save you a ton of work. I've had timing covers leak after very carefully replacing them exactly per the Poser method (in the FAQ). What I did then was clean everything with a solvent to get the bottom edge of the timing cover, timing plate, oil pan arch and everything else in that area completely dry and clean. Then, lie down under the front timing cover and have a helper start the engine and shine a bright light on the bottom edge of the timing cover. If you watch carefully, you'll see exactly where the oil comes from. If it doesn't come from behind the timing plate, then you don't need to replace that gasket, saving you a ton of work. I've had the two bottom bolts leak, even though I sealed them, and I've had the oil pan leak as well. Good luck sir.

This x2

 

[73FJ40]

I personally would without question stake punch this new torx V - head machine screw that replaces the flat head

Just because it’s a torx does not mean it is an anti-stake feature ?

No one suggests the Torx head doesn't require staking.

The "upgrade" is a screw more easily torqued (and removed) than the original flat head..

 

[ToyotaMatt]

No one suggests the Torx head doesn't require staking.

The "upgrade" is a screw more easily torqued (and removed) than the original flat head..

TORX and Torqued got mixed up a bit above ....

 

[73FJ40]

TORX and Torqued got mixed up a bit above ....


View attachment 3257576View attachment 3257577View attachment 3257579View attachment 3257578

@ToyotaMatt .


Could you explain what you mean by your statement?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

@ToyotaMatt .


Could you explain what you mean by your statement?

sure ,

after seeing the above tech. photos and seeing the post's where some folks mentioned the new updated TORX type fastener's for the front end

plate , as both a upgrade and a implied substitute , it puzzled me as to why TOYOTA has not to date simply made or created a direct across

the board global official parts suppression from the old 90113-10022 old flat head , to the newer 90149-10001 recessed female

torx. head ...?
i took the time , out of shear curiosity , and found some confliction global 2F engine appliccation info of when the 90113-10022 is phased out and the 90149-10001 is introduced ? there is a few years of overlap in many cases , on same exact land cruiser Modle ID codes ?
i have chalked it up to a Toyota laziness oversite , both to overlap both part numbers and to NOT supersede the old one for the new one ...

so i posted the 3F FSM pages step by steps above to assist anyone who may stumble upon the topic in the future ....


does this better explain my above statement

 

[73FJ40]

sure ,

after seeing the above tech. photos and seeing the post's where some folks mentioned the new updated TORX type fastener's for the front end

plate , as both a upgrade and a implied substitute , it puzzled me as to why TOYOTA has not to date simply made or created a direct across

the board global official parts suppression from the old 90113-10022 old flat head , to the newer 90149-10001 recessed female

torx. head ...?
i took the time , out of shear curiosity , and found some confliction global 2F engine appliccation info of when the 90113-10022 is phased out and the 90149-10001 is introduced ? there is a few years of overlap in many cases , on same exact land cruiser Modle ID codes ?
i have chalked it up to a Toyota laziness oversite , both to overlap both part numbers and to NOT supersede the old one for the new one ...

so i posted the 3F FSM pages step by steps above to assist anyone who may stumble upon the topic in the future ....


does this better explain my above statement

No, it doesn't explain your statement regarding my post.

My post that you quoted in your retort:

No one suggests the Torx head doesn't require staking.

The "upgrade" is a screw more easily torqued (and removed) than the original flat head..

I refer to the "Torx head" (accurately stated) and "a screw more easily torqued.." which is also accurately stated.

Your retort was:

"TORX and Torqued got mixed up a bit above .... "

So, please explain how my post "got mixed up a bit"...

 

[ToyotaMatt]

No, it doesn't explain your statement regarding my post.

My post that you quoted in your retort:


I refer to the "Torx head" (accurately stated) and "a screw more easily torqued.." which is also accurately stated.

Your retort was:

"TORX and Torqued got mixed up a bit above .... "

So, please explain how my post "got mixed up a bit"...

ok ..........

i am not sure what a " retort " is ?

but if your referring to when i made my comment about TORX and Torqued being mixed up above , i was referring to myself , and making phun of the fact that i read all the various post way to fast , and related the 2 words to each other in a satire and dry humor way , because i did indeed
do just that ...

i also have never seen this updated TORX screw before , so sometimes new and different things can confuse people ....


does this now explain better , that i was not actually referring to your post ?

- last night i did a in-depth MUD Advance search on this 90149-10001 " updated TORX " screw , and i did find some past content on it , but is was very scarce at that ....


- so i guess folks now know it can and is a acceptable substitute for the old disc. / nla 90113-10022 thanks to your detailed TECH post above ..


- thanks mr. 73FJ40

 

[KentOffill]

Don‘t think that was me. I’ve successfully removed and replaced the cam gear in order to R&R the gasket. Removing the clip can damage it, new are avail.

I might add, where applicable, use the superseded late model gasket. It has some sealant tracks built into the gasket.

View attachment 3255118

The gasket I just got looks just like that. The little sealant tracks are not very tall. Do you still coat both sides with some non hardening sealer? I worry about this being a leaker and don't want to take it back apart again.

 

[Goldbug]

I've read through this thread 3x now I think. I have the 90149-10001 torx screw in hand, the right FIPG 00295-00103 (thanks @ToyotaMatt ) and a gasket from CruiserCorps that came as part of their engine gasket kit. I normally order from @cruiseroutfit but his site doesn't offer a gasket kit for the F.5. I wasn't originally planning to remove the backing plate, but sounds like if I'm going to do it right, I need to?

Apologies for being dense, but it is possible to remove the backing plate without removing the cam gear, but only by tweaking a puller? Leaking Timing Cover Gasket - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/leaking-timing-cover-gasket.1306555/post-14851368

Anyone with more clarity on best way to remove the backing plate would be much appreciated.
Current state:

 

[fjc-man]

Get a fuel pump gasket and an o-ring for the distributor. Looks like you already have the side cover off, pull the rocker assembly, pushrods, and lifters and slide the camshaft out of the block. After removing the retainer plate bolts, of course. Use a puller and take the crank gear off.

 

[mrldcty]

I'm working on refreshing the gaskets/seal on the front of my engine, so have been reading this thread. I removed the cam gear with some heat and a puller... it come off easily at around 225 deg F. I have a question about the timing cover: How flat should I expect it to be? The one I have is a bit scalloped between the bolt holes (but otherwise looks new, especially inside). Some of the spaces didn't even seem to have cork adhering to them and some of the holes look over torqued. Does anyone have a picture of a new cover that could give me an idea of how flat to expect it to be? Here are some pics:

 

[rstoddard]

IMHO, if it’s not bent up, I would just try to straighten any bad sections on a flat surface and brass with a mallet. For any squished holes, try to straighten in a vice, maybe using some washers to help with indents. Other than that, use a good OEM cork gasket and extra FIPG in the places you are concerned with.

 

[mrldcty]

IMHO, if it’s not bent up, I would just try to straighten any bad sections on a flat surface and brass with a mallet. For any squished holes, try to straighten in a vice, maybe using some washers to help with indents. Other than that, use a good OEM cork gasket and extra FIPG in the places you are concerned with.

Yeah... Thanks for that. I suspect even new they were not all that flat. I'll give it go and see how flat I can get it.