Leaking Timing Cover Gasket

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hi mr. @mrldcty & @salatorre06

i also have the same Technical step by step based question here ?

how do you plan to execute the step by steps of installing Cam Gear back on the Camshaft assy to that sweet-spot ?

many years ago @cruiseroutfit were having a in-depth technical live-chat about the now NLA / Disc. oem toyota camshaft thrust plate , and the at that time , there were NO aftermarket alternatives ?

the conversation got increasing technical in nature , when i mentioned to him how does his in-house on-site full service Land Cruiser mechanical shop
addresses the paper media large gasket behind the oiler valve equipped plate ?

i shard how sometime soon after T-TEN i had purchased a 1/72 FJ40 and attempted this alternative approach method , and during the attempted cam gear re-install , that i really had no dam idea what i was doing and going to do after using that heat-applied puller method above same in-kind ....?😆

so , after a few various failed ides approaches , i went at this via the side lifter & push rod cover to extract the Camshaft and have my trusty machine shop press on the cam shaft to the gear with then NEW OEM Toyota Thrust plate and all new oem key-ways too ...

well all went back together as it should original paper print media FSM saddled over the fender just like Johnny Cash would do on his 2/73 FJ40LV-KC FeeeBorn Red ..... he poetically named " BIG-RED " he purchased nee off the lot that still remains as part of his Estate to this very day

now ..... for the un-known to me at the time , as a result of all failed attempts to field repair re-install the gear back on the cam , i had un-knowingly pushed or maybe better termed blew-out the rear camshaft reverse-stalled freeze plug clean out of its press-fit bore-hole out of view and partially cover by the bell housing !
:wrench:

yea yea ..... it really happened just like this and just like that
.....:confused::wrench:
I heated the cam gear back to the temp it was at when the puller was able to remove it (225 deg F). I then just slid it back into place on the cam shaft with a little tapping from a dead blow hammer to seat it all the way on so the clip would go back on. I made sure to align it with the marks I put on the cam and crank gears before removing. Since the cam gear is keyed, as long as the cam and crank gears are properly aligned, you should be good. Hope that answers your question.
 
Others have suggested that if the distributor is properly installed, the gearing between the distributor and camshaft restrains lateral movement.

Moderate "pushing" on the camshaft while reinstalling the cam gear might not damage the thrust plate or "freeze " plug.

I don't think the OEM manual recommends this method.
 
@rstoddard you've already got some really knowledgeable guys on this thread, but I wanted to share my lessons as it may save you a ton of work. I've had timing covers leak after very carefully replacing them exactly per the Poser method (in the FAQ). What I did then was clean everything with a solvent to get the bottom edge of the timing cover, timing plate, oil pan arch and everything else in that area completely dry and clean. Then, lie down under the front timing cover and have a helper start the engine and shine a bright light on the bottom edge of the timing cover. If you watch carefully, you'll see exactly where the oil comes from. If it doesn't come from behind the timing plate, then you don't need to replace that gasket, saving you a ton of work. I've had the two bottom bolts leak, even though I sealed them, and I've had the oil pan leak as well. Good luck sir.
Stupid question here - if it's the two bottom bolts leaking, how to remedy that? Tighten them down a bit or..? Thanks!
 
Ah great, thanks! So I can just simply remove them, apply the FIPG and then reinstall? I'll probably need to drain the oil first though, right? So just time it with my next oil change or something
I would clean the threads of the hole with your favorite solvent and Q-tip, it might seal without but it’s an easy step..
 
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