- Thread starter
- #21
“Removing the clip can damage it..”
What do you mean by that? What clips are you referring to?
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Leaking Timing Cover Gasket
- Thread starter rstoddard
- Start date
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What do you mean by that? What clips are you referring to?
- Thread starter
- #22
Matt, my Dad was Mr. Stoddard. You can call me Ron.
- Thread starter
- #23
After thinking on it, how much clearance is there behind the gear? How easy would it be to install a new gasket with the gear there? Seems like it would be hard to get the plate on with a gasket covered with a coat of FIPG without disturbing the position of the gasket
Crank gear yes. Cam gear not possible.
The clip preventing you from just using a puller to remove the cam gear. 90520-29051
- Thread starter
- #27
Is that a Press-Fit gear? How did you press it back on?
- Thread starter
- #28
Maybe Kurt will share his technique for removing the gear with the cam installed. None of my jaw pullers could get a hold of it.
In 2009 I had to put the cam & gear into a 50-ton shop press to separate them. I was surprised that the press gauge got close to the redline before they finally separated with a very loud bang.
I used the same press a few months ago to switch cams. This time it came off easier, but it still took a bit of pressure.
I thought my collection of snap ring pliers would cover this snap ring until I bent it up on removal and fought trying to get a new one on. Then I got “THIS” tool and it worked great. The knurled tips make all the difference.
- Thread starter
- #30
Wow…. It makes me wonder how you get that gear off. I’m curious how you pound that sucker back on without damaging anything too!
Sounds like pulling the Gear and Camshaft as an Assy might be easier, if @ToyotaMatt is right (and he usually is). If he says it can be done without removing Pushrods and Lifters…. Not sure? Otherwise it sounds like a big huge job just to replace a paper gasket.
Sounds like pulling the Gear and Camshaft as an Assy might be easier, if @ToyotaMatt is right (and he usually is). If he says it can be done without removing Pushrods and Lifters…. Not sure? Otherwise it sounds like a big huge job just to replace a paper gasket.
We had to tweak teeth on a puller to do it. From there judicious heat made quick work of it. Likewise, heat like a ring gear when installing and seat gently with a sleeve over the cam face. Install new clip.
Look, I don't care if you believe me or not, but telling me I'm defacto lying because you're "not sure" isn't going to elicit any assistance or tech from me
Call whomever you bought the gasket from, let them earn your $$. If by chance it was from us, post your INV# and I'll get you refunded within minutes.
Well done, Kurt, and thanks for sharing. It may be in the archives somewhere, but you are the first that I have heard to explain how it can be changed in place. Good to know it can be done.
- Thread starter
- #34
Hey, hey…. Nobody said they didn’t believe you @cruiseroutfit Kurt. I asked how you put it back on but there was no reply. Steamer simply recited how hard it is to to get that sucker off, which I have heard before.Look, I don't care if you believe me or not, but telling me I'm defacto lying because you're "not sure" isn't going to elicit any assistance or tech from me
Call whomever you bought the gasket from, let them earn your $$. If by chance it was from us, post your INV# and I'll get you refunded within minutes.
Sorry if you were offended by our ramblings.
i have never personally removed any F , F1.5 2F or 3F / 3FE series camshaft timing gear while still in-place on the engine .
on this topic i have always followed my factory FSM step by steps and pulled the camshaft and the gear together .
i also remove the crankshaft timing gear too at the same time because i like the extra free-space it then allows to have a clear line if sight and also some extra space and clearance to access the 2 under-cut flat head screws that are factory staked with a punch , and sometimes have been required to be
hit with my Dremel too to free the stake-punch area up , same for the re-install of the 2 under-cut flat heads , extra room to work is nice for me to have
this also allows me to make a nice and neat application of the plate and gasket itself during re-assembly , REMEMBER , the 2 flat head screws center the plate in place initially , and must be re-staked in place via a metal punch , so i ALWAYS use new ones in this case ....
however .....
i have seen it done here on MUD a few times in various TECH threads in the past , by removing the snap ring and applying pin-point precision heat
like @cruiseroutfit describes in detail above , so it can be done .....
on this topic i have always followed my factory FSM step by steps and pulled the camshaft and the gear together .
i also remove the crankshaft timing gear too at the same time because i like the extra free-space it then allows to have a clear line if sight and also some extra space and clearance to access the 2 under-cut flat head screws that are factory staked with a punch , and sometimes have been required to be
hit with my Dremel too to free the stake-punch area up , same for the re-install of the 2 under-cut flat heads , extra room to work is nice for me to have
this also allows me to make a nice and neat application of the plate and gasket itself during re-assembly , REMEMBER , the 2 flat head screws center the plate in place initially , and must be re-staked in place via a metal punch , so i ALWAYS use new ones in this case ....
however .....
i have seen it done here on MUD a few times in various TECH threads in the past , by removing the snap ring and applying pin-point precision heat
like @cruiseroutfit describes in detail above , so it can be done .....
It is probably due to my search deficiencies, but up till now I never came across those posts where someone said they had personally removed the cam gear with the cam in place, but rather that they heard of it being done or that it could be done. And after my first-time difficulties even with the cam & gear out of the engine, I had some doubt weather or not it actually could be done. That is why I appreciative that Kurt took the time to explain how “HE” did it. And, it is now one more mystery in my head that I can remove from that really large list. Lol.
I refer to the FSM often and I consider it a great reference, but there is plenty of info and shortcuts that are just not in there.
Can you imagine the service manual that could be put together if all the great, well experienced wrench pulling minds here on Mud got together and listed all their tips, tricks and shortcuts and then assembled them in order into easy to look up categories? Oh wait! We have that here on Mud it’s called “Tech”. Well, the “look up” aspect can be tedious at times but then again a book wouldn’t offer the camaraderie & pic sharing that exists here. OK. Never mind. The morning caffeine has got me babbling. I need to get out there and address a weepy rear main seal. Wrench on MUDders!
- Thread starter
- #37
I thought that Toyota replaced the Flat Screws with a Torx Screw, and that is considered an upgrade when replacing the Plate?
You get what you order.
The original screws with slotted heads are "Screw Crankcase Front - Toyota (90113-10022)" but are now discontinued.
The later version with Torx heads are "Screw - Toyota (90149-10001)" with a list price of $2.56.
Don't let the dealer screw you by charging 3 or 4 times list price, like some of the dealers in California do.
@rstoddard you've already got some really knowledgeable guys on this thread, but I wanted to share my lessons as it may save you a ton of work. I've had timing covers leak after very carefully replacing them exactly per the Poser method (in the FAQ). What I did then was clean everything with a solvent to get the bottom edge of the timing cover, timing plate, oil pan arch and everything else in that area completely dry and clean. Then, lie down under the front timing cover and have a helper start the engine and shine a bright light on the bottom edge of the timing cover. If you watch carefully, you'll see exactly where the oil comes from. If it doesn't come from behind the timing plate, then you don't need to replace that gasket, saving you a ton of work. I've had the two bottom bolts leak, even though I sealed them, and I've had the oil pan leak as well. Good luck sir.
I am not aware of this topic ?
